FITT V8 Supercar at Bathurst Challenge now closed. Winners announced.

  • Thread starter Pete05
  • 496 comments
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My approach was to learn the track better so I took a familiar 600ok car that is not necessarily the fastest but one that I like and am comfortable with. Ran an A spec race, 5 laps and then over to Arcade Mode. Saved my best lap at 2:03 flat and tried to chase it with the Falcon. 1/2 a second behind consistently into turn two and up the hill. Down the hill and the back straight however, it's no match and a mid 2:05 is the best I have. Not sure if it's me, the track or the tune. Might not submit for this one as it appears I am waaaaay off.
Of course the decision to submit your tune or not is all yours but I'm interested to know what car you used as a ghost to chase? If it's a faster car, it could be clouding your decision to submit or not.
View attachment 544887
Ford Falcon XR8 2000 - FITT compo tune
602pp​


Tuned for version 1.2x
Oil change
Suspension (Full Custom) - Racing Hard
Ride Height (mm): 50 /50
Spring Rate (kgf/mm): 17.27 / 15.62
Dampers (Compression): 3 / 3
Dampers (Extension): 10 / 10
Anti-Roll Bars: 6 / 6
Camber Angle (-): 3.6 / 2.4
Toe Angle: -0.36 / +0.18

Brake Balance Controller
Racing Brakes
Brake Balance: 6 / 9


Drivetrain
Initial Torque: 60
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 60


Power for 629BHP/659Nm/602pp
Limiter - 100%
Stock power


Gearbox (Full Custom)
Set Transmission to default
Set Final Drive Ratio to 5.000
Set Max Speed to 200 km/h
1st gear: 2.978
2nd gear: 2.331
3rd gear: 1.821
4th gear: 1.442
5th gear: 1.226
6th gear: 1.108
Set Final Drive Ratio to 3.150


Body weight 1350kg - NO Body Rigidity!
Downforce
Front/Rear 383/545




Here's how to drive, last corner goes also on 2nd gear, made mistake here and corrected with 1st gear.
Small throttle steering needed, but only small, body rotates and turns surprisingly well with spool.

First tune submitted and all looks ok to me.
 
Of course the decision to submit your tune or not is all yours but I'm interested to know what car you used as a ghost to chase? If it's a faster car, it could be clouding your decision to submit or not.

First tune submitted and all looks ok to me.
It was one I expected to be faster, but not built for this track. Being 2.5 seconds behind on a good lap after tuning for this track and seeing the other times posted gives me pause. Might try and find more speed as it may be me and the track.
 
It was one I expected to be faster, but not built for this track. Being 2.5 seconds behind on a good lap after tuning for this track and seeing the other times posted gives me pause. Might try and find more speed as it may be me and the track.
I had to ask because I have heard you say before that you & Bathurst are a little like foes.
 
Yes, but I thought chasing a faster car might help. Expected not to be as fast. Might just be me and the downhill slalom.
I can show my landmarks, not used on video earlier, those were recorded on brake bias setup.

IMG_20160509_222023.jpg

1st black board as target out.

IMG_20160509_222110.jpg

1st white board as target in/out/straight towards

IMG_20160509_222230.jpg
when last white board exits from screen you're taking out.

IMG_20160509_222312.jpg

Line out, towards color change on wall adverts.

IMG_20160509_222402.jpg

2nd tree as line out target.

IMG_20160509_222445.jpg

2nd tree again target in/out.

IMG_20160509_222529.jpg
wall color change target in/out.

IMG_20160509_222609.jpg

Last barrel pile of tires as target out.

Every target is started to point when they appeared on clear sight, meaning when you see driveable line to there, some billboards can be seen before direct line can be taken, but is only easier to time your shot towards them.

Edit: those aren't only ones, i.e. Heading first color change and then first tree before heading first white board.
But getting point, do good landmarks around track.
 
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WOW...I am nowhere close to any of the times talked about in this thread with the stock Falcon :boggled:. I sure hope there will be massive improvements from the settings generated from all of the hard work being done by the impressive line-up of tuners. 👍

I have a feeling that I am going to like the tune from @OdeFinn this time around...:cool:

@Pete05 I really love this track and I want to thank you again for all of your help with the earlier seasonal TT at Bathurst...:bowdown:

:cheers:
 
WOW...I am nowhere close to any of the times talked about in this thread with the stock Falcon :boggled:. I sure hope there will be massive improvements from the settings generated from all of the hard work being done by the impressive line-up of tuners. 👍

I have a feeling that I am going to like the tune from @OdeFinn this time around...:cool:

@Pete05 I really love this track and I want to thank you again for all of your help with the earlier seasonal TT at Bathurst...:bowdown:

:cheers:
The Falcon is a car that seems to unlock time the more you fiddle with it. It's certainly no gem in untouched form.
I'm more than happy to help out where I can & Bathurst is somewhere I know quite well.
 
Looking back over some old onboard videos from 2000-2005, we can brake, much much deeper without locking wheels and get on the throttle much earlier.
the tyres are definitely too grippy for the car of the time.

Take turn 2, my braking point (doing whatever speed the shift light flashes at in 5th gear) is right in the middle of the runoff road on the left.
in the video posted earlier with Greg Murphy, he is 3 or more car lengths short of that road (there's a squiggle of tar down the centre of the track in-game) where he applies the brakes.

For a true realistic time, maybe SS tyres need to be fitted, these cars are a total handful in real life and skate all over the track, as they're just too heavy and too much power for the small tyres they have to work with.
I've not used this car in game before and it's too stable on RH tyres.
It just feels under-powered, there's a number of places the real car needs to be short-shifted to keep it from spinning the wheels excessively (Exit of The Cutting and The Chase in particular).

By no means change what you guys are doing here.
It's just an observation from watching and driving (PS) countless laps around this track.
I just follow these kinds of things in the background normally and try to keep up with the lap times posted and borrow the tunes to see how they feel for my driving.
 
One of my mates back in Sydney, used to trash ED and EF/L Falcon sedan, he bought cheap used ones and used it daily ( trashing it ) his famous past time is going over speed hump full throttle ( at night when the roads empty ), smoking roundabout ( he loves the big ones ) :lol:
I used to do that with old Valiants, one was registered and i would buy similar cars and swap the number plates, great dirt track practice
 
Looking back over some old onboard videos from 2000-2005, we can brake, much much deeper without locking wheels and get on the throttle much earlier.
the tyres are definitely too grippy for the car of the time.

Take turn 2, my braking point (doing whatever speed the shift light flashes at in 5th gear) is right in the middle of the runoff road on the left.
in the video posted earlier with Greg Murphy, he is 3 or more car lengths short of that road (there's a squiggle of tar down the centre of the track in-game) where he applies the brakes.

For a true realistic time, maybe SS tyres need to be fitted, these cars are a total handful in real life and skate all over the track, as they're just too heavy and too much power for the small tyres they have to work with.
I've not used this car in game before and it's too stable on RH tyres.
It just feels under-powered, there's a number of places the real car needs to be short-shifted to keep it from spinning the wheels excessively (Exit of The Cutting and The Chase in particular).

By no means change what you guys are doing here.
It's just an observation from watching and driving (PS) countless laps around this track.
I just follow these kinds of things in the background normally and try to keep up with the lap times posted and borrow the tunes to see how they feel for my driving.
You're right in several points 👍
If we had the option of using a Super Hard tyre compound, no prizes for guessing which one I would've chosen. A case of PD making us look way better than we are I'm afraid. Personally, I don't like using Racing tyres on road cars and vice versa so RH it had to be.

You mention the Greg Murphy replay and his braking pony into Turn 2 (Griffins Bend). If anyone cares to watch the highlights from the Top 10 shootout in 2004, see if you can identify why Murphy was on Pole by over a second ;) No prizes or anything like that, just an opportunity for education :)
The circuit was freshly resurfaced prior to the 2004 event which always provides more grip and, on top of that, the tyres they were all using back then weren't as hard as the current rubber.
 
I noticed the first of the tunes is up so I guess, being a newbie, now is a good time to ask what your testing rules are (laps per tuner,all in one stint, scoring and such). Really looking forward to giving these a thrash because I'm getting a bit bored with the stock + oil change + trans set-up (down to 2:03.2xx with that). Odefinn's tune looks very interesting:tup:, I just hope I can do it justice. It looks from the video (and his statement) that a bit of throttle overlap is needed in many corners for balance but unfortunately that is impossible for me. Still, I will give all tunes my very best (within the rules of course) as soon as I'm up to speed with what's required.

:cheers: THC_gtmic
 
For testers, and why not tuners:
When testing you can keep car body straight chap, do settings onarcade menu only brute, drive laps, come back to arcade menu and don't enter settings there, just save replay and leave to arcade track selection menu, select track again and start over.

Why, because body damage and kilometers are saved IF you go settings menu of any kind after exiting from track, by exiting arcade track you can keep 0-mileage and body straight.

Btw. I.e. My car losses lot of grip if touched/hit on wall, it's a tune definitely not for car with bended body. (Braking suffers most, brake distance from 288 kmh to 120 kmh lengthen lot)

I will do testing with straight body's to all tuners.

@FPV MIC not so crucial with throttle, it settles on both ways, lifting or slamming it. :)
 
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For testers, and why not tuners:
When testing you can keep car body straight chap, do settings onarcade menu only brute, drive laps, come back to arcade menu and don't enter settings there, just save replay and leave to arcade track selection menu, select track again and start over.

Why, because body damage and kilometers are saved IF you go settings menu of any kind after exiting from track, by exiting arcade track you can keep 0-mileage and body straight.

Btw. I.e. My car losses lot of grip if touched/hit on wall, it's a tune definitely not for car with bended body.

I will do testing with straight body's to all tuners.

@FPV MIC not so crucial with throttle, it settles on both ways, lifting or slamming it. :)
Good to know:tup:
 
I have a feeling that I am going to like the tune from @OdeFinn this time around...:cool:

Be aware of camber/toe ratio of this car is 10:1, my tune is slammed to ground and suspension movements limited to minimal needed for good reason.
Dynamic changes of camber and toe can backfire on this track really badly, during compression (braking/turning etc) it will ad more camber and open toe more out (negative), so find good compromises on toe, i.e. Neutral driving, meaning similar to toe 0.00 when you have -3.0 camber is -0.30 toe out (10:1 ratio), if you want behaviour like toe out (good solution, it won't change from toe in to toe out in middle of corner) you use on 3 degree camber toe values more out than -0.30, -0.31 and higher, or you out for your in styled front by using under that -0.30 values, prefer to use enough "toe in" to keep it staying as toe in during braking and cornering. Of course it's not a stupid idea to use slight "toe in" (i.e.-0.29 - .0.25) and it will change to toe out on corner entry and help turning in, but finding proper amount is trick to do.
Limit suspension movements on desired range to keep dynamic changes in working ranges.
My tune plays on both sides of front toe, opening more on entry, and closing on acceleration, minimal bump steer.
 
I noticed the first of the tunes is up so I guess, being a newbie, now is a good time to ask what your testing rules are (laps per tuner,all in one stint, scoring and such). Really looking forward to giving these a thrash because I'm getting a bit bored with the stock + oil change + trans set-up (down to 2:03.2xx with that). Odefinn's tune looks very interesting:tup:, I just hope I can do it justice. It looks from the video (and his statement) that a bit of throttle overlap is needed in many corners for balance but unfortunately that is impossible for me. Still, I will give all tunes my very best (within the rules of course) as soon as I'm up to speed with what's required.

:cheers: THC_gtmic
@FPV MIC all that is ever asked of a Tester in any FITT competition is that you treat each tune fairly. @Otaliema can link you to the right page of information where you'll find all you need to know :) 👍
You know what, I wanna fly. @Otaliema sign me up as tester as well please :D :lol:
Thankyou @Antares26 :bowdown::cheers:
 
I just follow these kinds of things in the background normally and try to keep up with the lap times posted and borrow the tunes to see how they feel for my driving.
If you're already doing half the work why not write up you thoughts and record yours laps and turn them in. results, and feedback are always welcome. No matter what, (except for life banned people)

You know what, I wanna fly. @Otaliema sign me up as tester as well please :D :lol:
Done sir
 
And the second tune is already posted :eek:
I have to say these are rolling in faster than I had predicted.
I am very happy for the early tunes 👍 as I had another full day of rain here in soggy southern Ohio...two tunes are now tested with 14 more to go! :eek:

I think I will have Bathurst down by the time I am finished with this event...:)
 
Did some tinkering last night and got down to flat 2:03's

I'll post it up tonight.

ONe thing I've found is that I'm much faster with more camber in this car (3.0\1.0), IF you hit the specific grooves in the track from Murrays corner through to Forest Elbow.
But if you miss by a centimetre, it's straight into the wall and your lap is toast
WIthout the camber, those missed lines are easier to recover from and salvage some form of lap
 
Did some tinkering last night and got down to flat 2:03's

I'll post it up tonight.

ONe thing I've found is that I'm much faster with more camber in this car (3.0\1.0), IF you hit the specific grooves in the track from Murrays corner through to Forest Elbow.
But if you miss by a centimetre, it's straight into the wall and your lap is toast
WIthout the camber, those missed lines are easier to recover from and salvage some form of lap
Analyse reason why it is going straight on camber, suspension stiffness? Suspension geometry? Lock?
My car is on ground to keep dynamic changes on geometry smallest possible on edge of soft and hard suspension, this car needs wings for grip gaining, but little too much wing and it starts pushing, my wings are keeping just small force on springs all-time.. Maybe you have too much wing, on either end or both?

Edit: i.e. My car has load ratio on springs without wings is 42.5%/57.5% and after wings it's 55%/45%, this ratio change allows spool to have slight slippage on slower speeds and make turning easier, when speed rises wings balance car more neutral spring load weight balance. That variation gives decent rotation on spool on slow speeds and even on higher speeds there is still left minor front lead allowing rear to slip needed amounts.
Edit2: don't think at car is actually ever on 42.5%/57.5 balance(or it's, when parked), wing are doing their job and balance goes pretty linear towards that 55/45% when speed is rising, this dynamic weight balance is "timed" to have nice weight balance on slow and mid speed turns, and even on high speed it's not making it straight going rocket. And this is not direct weight balance, this is spring load balance, or stiffness balance, this would be much easier to write in my own language :) percentages are showing amounts of static weight load differences, i.e. If front and rear springs have just exact tension to carry that end static load, not stiffer or softer then load balance would be 50:50, If front is having 5% stiffer than needed springs and rear 5% softer than needed for carrying static load balance would be 55%/45%. Maybe this helps to understand above. This car is running above 4Hz springs, probably somewhere 4.5 to 5.5Hz, depending tuner, that makes static load carrying springs 3-4.5 stiffer than just carrying load. Balance difference is the thing.

About timing, if I want more grip on mid speed corner, I need more wing on both ends (on my setup means adding equal amount on both wings), but also I have to rise spring tension carry that added amount of weight, then comes testing is it linear 10 more wing equal 1% more spring? Or what's ratio between them, probably just needs bit testing, after you read this you will understand at my setup is pretty easy to do better grip, but when added grip on mid speed makes springs too stiff for low speed cornering, again finding balance... ;)
Above has small brainer regarding my load balance.. Should look on notes before writing.. Lol will fix later...fixed..

I.e. 234.. My car with added 15 wings, 388/555 and springs 17.52/15.84 will have more grip, without losing characteristics of handling.
 
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