Force feedback is just plain wrong (T500RS)

  • Thread starter Thread starter NTIV10
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Did you two above people not just watch RC's video? It IS supposed to emulate a real car, and his wheel is straight as ever, I think the OP either is confusing the FFB w/ a problem or he does have a messed up wheel, which happens from time to time w/ ANYTHING, even cars in real life đź’ˇ :)
 
The oscillation happens with all Logitech wheels as well and has already been in GT4. It is very unlikely it is a hardware problem with the OP's Thrustmaster wheel.

I have conducted some testing with a bone stock M5 with stock settings on La Sarthe and SSR7. If the road was absolutely level, I kept the car extremely calm and carefully released the steering wheel, it remained stable in about 50% of my tests. In the other 50% and especially when the road had minor bumps or leaned to one side even the slightest (and sometimes even on an absolutely level piece of tarmac on SSR7), the wheel would start to oscillate and spin the car out of control within a few seconds.

This is definitely not a hardware problem. I'd rate this as an unwanted sideeffect of PD's implementation of FFB. Why this doesn't happen in RC45's video is unknown to me, but judging from how easily he was able to control the car in general, he had probably set the FFB to minimum which also might reduce the discussed effect.
 
wait till it rains, take your car out to a quiet/abandoned street, get it up to speed. knock it out of gear and stomp on the brakes. Take good note of how the abs feels under your foot. That is what the vibrating on the csp is meant to simulate. thats why the setting for it is called abs.

I knew what it was trying to simulate and I know how ABS feels IRL, the pedals does a very sorry job at simulating ABS. It's only useful in knowing I'm pressing the brakes pass a certain percentage. Still my point is even though it's far from being realistic is still helpful.
 
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This is definitely not a hardware problem. I'd rate this as an unwanted sideeffect of PD's implementation of FFB. Why this doesn't happen in RC45's video is unknown to me, but judging from how easily he was able to control the car in general, he had probably set the FFB to minimum which also might reduce the discussed effect.
Notice his g-force meter and speed. I can come close do the same thing with my G27 yet his wheel seems to handle it better though. G-force meter and FFB are linked.
 
Quick question. Is this your first wheel? Even on 1 you will feel some "forced feedback" via electric motors inside the big lump in front of the wheel.
 
I knew what it was trying to simulate and I know how ABS feels IRL, the pedals does a very sorry job at simulating ABS. It's only useful in knowing I'm pressing the brakes pass a certain percentage. Still my point is even though it's far from being realistic is still helpful.

Lets just agree that it simulates it better than ANY other wheel/pedals on the market :)
 
Sounds bad, I don´t know if I´m gonna get this wheel or wait for Logitechs sucessor for the G27 wich should come out this or next year. I got the fanatec wheel to replace my G25 but the quality of the fanatec wheel made me disappointed.
 


Great video, on point. But just to shore things up, what settings were you using (FFB, etc.) when you shot that video?

EDIT: Oops. Never mind. The title of the vid says FFB 10. Asked and answered, as far as I'm concerned.

I have the wheel myself and haven't experienced any problems with FFB or wild oscillations, and I'm pretty sure I've taken my hands off the wheel down certain straightaways near the end of races.
 
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I just got my T500RS today. I don't know whether to blame the wheel or the game, but I am very unhappy.

What the hell is wrong with this game? Why do cars end up in a self-perpetuating cycle of left-right force feedback if the wheel is anywhere close to center? I should be able to take my hands off the wheel at 60, 70, 100+ mph without the car all of a sudden going out of control.

Don't tell me I'm not holding it right. I spent quite a while driving the '08 BMW M5 and I can tell you for a fact this is not even close to realistic. I owned an '06 M5 for two years and I have driven it on tight twisty roads and on open highways, including hitting the speed limiter more than once. It is DEAD SOLID on a straightaway, even at 155mph.

Am I missing a setting somewhere? It seems that the steering wheel settings in the options menu do not apply for the T500RS. I've tried Amateur, Pro, and Sim, turned power steering on and off, and turned force feedback all the way down and all the way back up.

I am about ready to return this $600 steering wheel if I can't find a way to get the cars in the game to behave properly on a straightaway.

Dude, the way the wheel moves by itself, you could totally attach a feather or something to the bottom of it and have it tickle your junk. Just an idea.
 
Too many people are making too many far fetched excuses for this game. The fact of the matter is the FFB is garbage. The oscillation is from a VERY POOR FFB engine. Thats why I never had much faith in the thrustmaster wheel. How can a wheel designed while working closley with a team that gets FFB so wrong be an incredible wheel. Try it on some pc sims when/if the pc drivers come out. If you think it is worth 600, keep it. It should be a good wheel. Gt5 is just nothing to benchmark ffb on.



PC drivers came available on 1/24. Try the link below.

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=1&fid=2&pid=316&cid=1
 
Lets just agree that it simulates it better than ANY other wheel/pedals on the market :)
Actually I've read CST feels closer to the real thing but they are kind of high. Then you have Perfect pedal mod which uses hydraulic fluid like real brakes so I'm not going to make the statement it's the better than any thing on the market.
I will say I personally think CSP are worth the price especially for the PC.
 
Haven't read through the whole thread. But my T500 does not have such an issue. I can let go on straights with no issues at all (much different than my G25). Had the firmware upgrade done right when I got it, so can't say how it was before.
 
CST is...? And CSP is....?
Sorry, but I'm not an abbreviations-kinda guy, LOL :lol:

Ps, this thread has definitely made me laugh all throughout, and has given me faith, yet again in the interwebs :lol: :lol: 👍
 
Actually I've read CST feels closer to the real thing but they are kind of high. Then you have Perfect pedal mod which uses hydraulic fluid like real brakes so I'm not going to make the statement it's the better than any thing on the market.
I will say I personally think CSP are worth the price especially for the PC.

I was talking about simulating the shuddering/vibration of a brake pedal when abs engages....which nothing else on the market simulates :). hence lets just agree that the csp simulates THAT better than anything else :)
 
NTIV10
I just got my T500RS today. I don't know whether to blame the wheel or the game, but I am very unhappy.

What the hell is wrong with this game? Why do cars end up in a self-perpetuating cycle of left-right force feedback if the wheel is anywhere close to center? I should be able to take my hands off the wheel at 60, 70, 100+ mph without the car all of a sudden going out of control.

Don't tell me I'm not holding it right. I spent quite a while driving the '08 BMW M5 and I can tell you for a fact this is not even close to realistic. I owned an '06 M5 for two years and I have driven it on tight twisty roads and on open highways, including hitting the speed limiter more than once. It is DEAD SOLID on a straightaway, even at 155mph.

Am I missing a setting somewhere? It seems that the steering wheel settings in the options menu do not apply for the T500RS. I've tried Amateur, Pro, and Sim, turned power steering on and off, and turned force feedback all the way down and all the way back up.

I am about ready to return this $600 steering wheel if I can't find a way to get the cars in the game to behave properly on a straightaway.

Mate I have had so many problems with that wheel its not even funny.
Firstly calibration problems then the cheap screws they used to fix the wheel on place snapped. I had to re drill the whole thing and put special stainless steel screws in with Loctite.
 
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