General Questions

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If I'd been drinking at the time, I would have spit up my Coke... :lol:

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I have to consciously call photocopies photocopies... everyone here calls them Xerox...es. And soft-drinks are "Cokes". I don't know why yon Nor'Americans call them "Pops", since almost nobody buys Pop-Cola, anymore.

Oh, and it's meeses. And sheeps are sheepses. As geese are geeseses.

I've been calling my building bricks "Legos" for thirty years. I'm not going to change now, damnit! :lol:

It seems to happen all to often over here. The generic term for a vacuum cleaner has been hoover for many years :p

others include:

4x4--> Jeep
Public address system --> Tannoy
Plastic container --> Tupperware
extremely flexible spring --> Slinky

Of course when things get to items you get from the chemist....

Vaseline, Durex (Not that I get them from the chemist), aspirin....
 
smalldrawn.gif

Who the hell compiles that sort of data? :lol:

Public address system --> Tannoy

Alan Partridge? :)
 
Who the hell compiles that sort of data? :lol:

Probably quite easily. x company publishes sales figures for x area. Then you just have to make a map of the USA and put a lot of little dots on, looks a bit like a big tetris.
 
It looks like Nevada focuses on non-carbonated beverages. Now, back to my pop and legos.
 
@Sureshot: It would work if there was actually a brand called "Pop" or "Soda". I think this is one of those "survey says" things.

When I said nobody buys "Pop" anymore, that's because we have a local brand called "Pop Cola" (not to be confused with "Pop Kola").

TB

The Illinois/Kentucky/Missouri junction looks nasty.

Looks ripe for Pop n' Soda gangwars...
 
I call the fizzy stuff whatever i feel like calling it at that time, though i don't know anyone who calls the stuff pop they need to update thier data.
 
I call the fizzy stuff whatever i feel like calling it at that time, though i don't know anyone who calls the stuff pop they need to update thier data.
I just call it something good to drink. Though very bad at times.
 
4x4--> Jeep

No wonder my parents say it all the time. It really, really annoys the crap out of me.


On a side note, I just noticed that Lego costs one hell of a lot of cash now. I used to buy boxes for like $5. Now that same box will be $20.
 
TB
The Illinois/Kentucky/Missouri junction looks nasty.
There are a lot of old Civil War forts in that area. The rivers and the convergence (Ohio and Mississippi) were important strategic points. Apparently the war lives on in soda/pop/coke disputes.
 
No wonder my parents say it all the time. It really, really annoys the crap out of me.


On a side note, I just noticed that Lego costs one hell of a lot of cash now. I used to buy boxes for like $5. Now that same box will be $20.

It's because Lego bricks are made out of plastic and you require fossil fuels to create plastic. It's a vicious cycle.

Edit: instead of vicious I typed in viscous. lol a viscous cycle.
 
Guys, don't hesitate to open new threads, also for seamingly small questions...
 
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Whether a car needs to be 'warmed up" before driving in the winter is a very debatable topic so im not going to ask that.

But a related question is... why does a car's idle rev drop as the engine gets up to temperature?
 
Because a faster spinning engine helps bring the temp up faster, so the computer (or choke on carbs) ups the rpms and limits the cold air coming in.

Also, the faster the engine warms up the quicker it gets warm air into the intake to help the combustion.

Thus once the engine is up to temp, it drops revs so less fuel is used.
 
...because eventually, this forum could become an easily searchable knowledge database. Instead of a single thread cramped with loose information.
 
Whether a car needs to be 'warmed up" before driving in the winter is a very debatable topic so im not going to ask that.

But a related question is... why does a car's idle rev drop as the engine gets up to temperature?

The idle is held high while cold because it simply won't run at the regular idle speed when cold. It's not to warm it up faster, it's just to keep it running. Cold oil is thicker and harder to pump, and cold engine surfaces tend to condense the fuel into larger droplets which resist ignition.

To compensate when cold, mixture is very very rich, i.e. MUCH more fuel than normal for the amount of air taken in. That's what a choke does on a carb, block intake air (literally "choke" the engine) without changing the fuel delivered. Electronic fuel injection compensates simply by injecting more fuel.

If you remember carburated cars, you know how much easier it is to start a modern fuel-injected car when stone cold than it used to be with carbs. To cold-start a carburated car, first thing you did before turning the key on was to floor the accelerator and let it back up. This closed the choke and allowed a temperature sensitive piece in the throttle linkage to catch, setting the high idle, and you then started the car with as little gas pedal as you could get away with. As the car warmed up, that temperature-sensitive piece in the linkage moved aside, and after that happened letting off the gas let the idle drop to normal. If you just sat in the driveay too long, the engine would run faster and faster until you tapped the gas pedal to release that linkage piece.

With electronic fuel injection, you don't touch the accelerator, you just turn the key and start. The brain knows the motor is cold, triggers a valve to let more air in past the throttle so it idles fast, and it sends more fuel through the injectors to make it rich. Same effect as a choke, without actually having one.

With either system there's an additional result of a large amount of unconsumed fuel going into the exhaust system, known as unburned hydrocarbons, which on modern emission-controlled engines must be taken care of somehow.



Anyway, it's not so much that the idle speed is dropped as it warms up, it's that it's held high while it's cold.

As for letting it warm up before you drive, you don't need to. On the older cars, they would sometimes run very rough when cold. Sudden throttle would cause it to stumble, as the carb could not figure out the right amount of fuel to mix. Those cars wanted to warm up a bit before they moved. With modern FI you just back out of the driveway and go about your business. The ECU makes everything work correctly, and the best way to warm up a modern engine is to drive it. No full throttle or high revs while cold, though, for best engine life. (Remember that hard-to-pump cold oil!)
 
...because eventually, this forum could become an easily searchable knowledge database. Instead of a single thread cramped with loose information.

Anyone who wants to see what happens when a site has no organization at all, check out NeoGAF... it's insane. Two forums... that's it. Trying to find anything on that site requires multiple searches, and you never know what you'll find even when you do that.
 
In extremely cold temperatures, I do believe that it is important to let your vehicle warm up a bit before driving. Imagine a bowl full of warm oil and a bowl full of cold oil. Now try to stir each one. The thicker oil puts a lot of extra stress on mechanical components. I cringe everytime I see jump in their car and immediately throw it in reverse and go on their way. Putting a load on your engine and transmission before the internal pumps even have a chance to lubricate everything is not good.
 
These last few cold days I've been trying to let the car idle for a while before getting up the driveway, which is quite a chore on the engine. And then my tree-hugger sister comes along and shuts the car off and hides the keys. Nice.

But yes, I believe it is better for the car to have it warmed up. Should I just wait until the needle starts to move on the gauge or wait until it's all the way up to operating temperature to do so much as drive it? and I always make sure that the engine is all the way to operating temperature until I accelerate very quick or let the revs get very high.
 
These last few cold days I've been trying to let the car idle for a while before getting up the driveway, which is quite a chore on the engine. And then my tree-hugger sister comes along and shuts the car off and hides the keys. Nice.

But yes, I believe it is better for the car to have it warmed up. Should I just wait until the needle starts to move on the gauge or wait until it's all the way up to operating temperature to do so much as drive it? and I always make sure that the engine is all the way to operating temperature until I accelerate very quick or let the revs get very high.
Ideally, the needle should be in the middle of the temp Gauge. I start driving once it past the "Cold" area.
 
I usually just sit in my car for a couple minutes. Depending on the temperature the needle may just be coming off the cold mark, or in my current negative temperatures, it would take about five minutes to even move. Either way, a few minutes should be sufficient as long as you take it easy until your car is fully warmed up. There are so many varied opinions on the topic, it just comes down to personal preference. I think the extra expense of gas for four months outweighs potential mechanical problems down the road.
 
These last few cold days I've been trying to let the car idle for a while before getting up the driveway, which is quite a chore on the engine. And then my tree-hugger sister comes along and shuts the car off and hides the keys. Nice.

But yes, I believe it is better for the car to have it warmed up. Should I just wait until the needle starts to move on the gauge or wait until it's all the way up to operating temperature to do so much as drive it? and I always make sure that the engine is all the way to operating temperature until I accelerate very quick or let the revs get very high.
Modern engines don't require you to wait for them to be warm before starting unless you're in arctic conditions. Cars are designed for our conveniance and can operate at our conveniance.

However, having said that, it is important to let turbo'd cars idle after being driven hard to allow the oil in the turbo to cool correctly.
 
aren't there ignition switches that you can buy that you could put on your car so that she has no idea how to turn it off? if that ever happened i'de just plug my old ignition back in. it slipped around in the chambers or something so it became quite a trick to get it to do anything.

what is a car's "limp mode"?
 
Limp mode is when the ECU detects a fault with the engine and allows you to proceed at limited speed/revs/gears untill you can get assistance or a safe place to stop. If you carry on driving with it in limp mode you can do serious damage.
 
Limp mode is when the ECU detects a fault with the engine and allows you to proceed at limited speed/revs/gears untill you can get assistance or a safe place to stop. If you carry on driving with it in limp mode you can do serious damage.

Fixed. If the conditions would allow damage to the engine, the ECU would shut it off.

Limp mode is used when a sensor goes offline or out of range. The system goes into open loop using the remaining sensors along with a default value for the broken one (and maybe adds restrictions you mentioned.) Some are sophisticated enough to run with no coolant by fueling cylinders on alternate cycles, allowing a dead cycle to circulate air through the cylinder for cooling.

If enough goes wrong that the ECU has no workaround mode, it will shut off the engine.

And going back to warmup, modern multi-weight oils circulate well enough that once oil pressure is up, which only takes a few seconds, then the car is drivable. While cold, no extreme throttle or revs, that's all.
 
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While cold, no extreme throttle or revs, that's all.
Exactly. Besides, just because the coolant and oil are up to temp (keep in mind the kinds of outside temps I'm used to this time of year) does not mean that the transmission, tires, etc. are.

Start it up, give it at most a minute and be on your way. Slowly.
 
I won't move my car out of the driveway until the temperature has at least registered on the guage.
It's older, earlier FI with a fair amount of mileage on it, and turbocharged to boot.

It doesn't help that I've got a long hill outside of my house on a moderately busy road with a 60 km/h limit. When I do go, I usually have to move.

As a result, my car typically gets at least 4-5 minutes of warmup before it moves.

And one to three minutes of cooldown before shutdown for the turbo's sake.
 
I usually let my car idle for about 30 seconds so the oil starts flowing, but it's not necessary to warm the car.

Don't push it, of course, but there's no need to let it sit.
 
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