Good Project car between $5K & $15K?

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Also forgot to mention that if you can, find a base model (RS) Integra and swap a JDM Type-R motor into it, and you'll have yourself a nice platform to work with. From there, bolt-on mods, possible turbo, etc. :) As for being able to find the 240sx, I agree. They're really tough to find, especially where I live. But it's also becoming increasingly tough to find an unmolested Integra, or one without substantial rust to it. I had to compromise for one with a little bit of quarter panel rust, but it's been bulletproof reliable thus far and I couldn't be happier with it.
 
That black Legacy is serious business...I like it. I think a Subaru would probably be a really good choice since they are cheap, AWD, and can be tuned to annhilate Porsches fairly easily. Too bad the SVX is too heavy, it would be a fantastic car that could be made VERY fast. The older 200SX models with the V6 could be another choice. They look like...

Oh, and the US got Galant VR4's in 1991~1992--and that's it to my knowledge.

The older Legacy is a good idea indeed. And I quite like how they look myself, as I am trying to track down a cheap one for a Rally project car.

The SVX is epically heavy, and its transmission is epically slow. And I think they are only G-Stock in Solo II...

200SX, S12, is quite an interesting deal. You can stick a VQ from a 300ZX in there and have all sorts of fun. And they go for fairly cheap as no knows what they are.

VR4 would be too much and too hard to find I thinks.

EDIT: Small rant on Auto-X

You can race a stock car, and slow ones at that, and be competive. My Tercel went into H-Stock, and I placed in that often, while also posting better times than many older gentlemen with vastly superior cars. Like M3's, Corvettes, and so on. I would almost say starting off in an amazingly slow car at first would be a good idea, as you'll learn to carry speed better, rather than thinking you are fast because you are sliding all over the place from power.

The fastest guys out there have bone stock Miata's half the time, so keep that in mind.
 
My turn.

A few suggestions as far as cars go:
-E30 3 Series.
27bmwe30leadimagebu7.jpg

Be it a 325is or an M3. The 3XX's are very common, fairly cheap, and have strong motors (both the 318 and 325). Should you choose an E30, I'd strongly reccomend an is model over an i - The suspension is stronger and stiffer, and you probably get those nice honeycomb wheels. A later model (1988 and newer) is slightly more refined, powerful, and IMHO better looking than the earler models. The ultimate choice would be an M3, but they're both rare and expensive. On the upper end of your budget, but still obtainable.

-Miata.
04titaniumvx8.jpg

I'm the umpteenth person to suggest it, but it's only because they're top-notch cars for competition. Light, communicative & responsive (if you think left, you'll go left), common, cheap, and they have a huge aftermarket. Anyone who says it's a 'girly car' is obviously insecure, or compensating for something. Supercharger kits are available and make the car very potent.

-Datsun 240Z
autocross022sjz9.jpg

I'll admit that I don't know a whole lot about 240Z's, but the one pictured races with the local motorsports club and it absolutely whips the competition. You'll likely have to do a bit of restoration before you start the modifications, but the end result would be worth it.

-DSM.
autocross006sei6.jpg

Despite an (unjust) reputation for being unreliable, a DSM - That is an Eagle Talon, Mitsubishi Eclipse, or a Plymouth Laser - could be a good car to start with. The 4G63T can yeild excellent power gains to the tune of 300-350 HP on the cheap, and the car itself is very reasonable, pricewise. Part of the unreliable reputation is that many DSMers are cheap, and neglect parts until they break... They need to be maintained, like any other car. Early 4G63's produced before 1995 are very strong engines that are immune to the dreaded crankwalk that second generation cars have. AWD cars have decent track potential despite the added weight (Or at least I hope so, I've got one!). They're easy to find, and have a very large and supportive community. Car pictured above is local and has been at a couple AutoX's and is quite competitive.

-C4 Corvette
800px1996corvettegrandsyp9.jpg

LT1 Engine, 6 Speed transmission, fairly common, good suspension and relative light weight make this a good starter car in my books. I'm sure they can be found for under $15k, and the LT1 has a massive aftermarket.

I'm sure I'm missing other good cars, but...
Someone else will suggest them.

Edit - One last car.

-Skyline
autocross005sta9.jpg

Strong motor, massive aftermarket, relatively good handling, space to haul a few things around in, AWD. However, it's probably at the upper end of your budget, and hard to find or import.
Also a local car, one of the fastest at the AutoX's.
 
Just throwing this out there, but what about a MX3? I had a V6 as my first car, and that thing seriously had fantastic handling out of the box. Don't know how big the aftermarket is on those though. Maybe get a four cylinder and scavenge some parts of a 323 GT-X turbo? How involved would a BFMR engine swap be? That would make a pretty awesome sleeper.

And Famine has decent things to say about them as well, from what I remember.
 
-Datsun 240Z
autocross022sjz9.jpg

I'll admit that I don't know a whole lot about 240Z's, but the one pictured races with the local motorsports club and it absolutely whips the competition. You'll likely have to do a bit of restoration before you start the modifications, but the end result would be worth it.

I know a bit more that I feel I should add to the 240Z. My dad used to own a blue one in his younger years and while he was happy with the performance, he did mention that it was very prone to rusting.
 
I don't know if anyone had mentioned it, but after walking past my neighbor's driveway I completely forgot about the Dodge Neon. Okay, they're really not good to look at, and sure, not all of them were built too well, but hot-damn are they cheap! You can get ahold of a used 2005 Neon SRT-4 in the $15K range, although I'm uncertain of the mileage and what kind of abuse the car may/may not have been subject to. I know they are a favorite at autoX events, and the previous Neon R/T and ACRs were favorites in SCCA racing, so they may be worth a look as well.

I personally would be impartial to the earlier ACR and R/T models myself, the last of the ACRs being outstandingly cheap. According to Edmunds, you could get your hands on a 2002 ACR for about five grand, but much like the SRT-4, God only knows what its been through.
I've never seen a Neon ACR, but honestly, a Neon is really the last choice. I can't imagine there being a large aftermarket base for that car unless it involves ricey kits. So, unforunately, I'd have to say no, unless it's I either find a SRT-4, or find a large abundance of performance parts for it.

==
Interesting idea: What about the Chrysler Crossfire? I had the "pleasure" of driving one shortly after their launch, and while it certainly was a Mercedes SLK underneath, it wasn't too bad of a car. I had it up to 110 MPH out on a back-road, and while going through some of the river-runs, the overall drive seemed pretty decent. My only complaint was the lack of space in the car, but me being about 6" tall, its a bit understandable. You should be able to get a 2004 model for about $15K these days, although a local Chrysler dealer may just sell you a brand-new one for that price because they want to get rid of them. They're not bad cars, they just weren't given enough love from the start...
The Crossfire is an interesting choice, but I imagine they'll be costing as much as to insure as the S2K. But like the Neon, I'd probably want to go for either a model right under the SRT-8 or just go for the SRT.

===
Did anyone mention the Pontiac GTO?

The Corvette parts make modifications easy, the chassis was already well-sorted out of the factory, and its a pleasure to drive (as I understand it) both in town and on the track. I've seen 2004 models going for about $15K-ish without too many miles on the clock, but you are down 50 BHP to the 2005 and 2006 models.
I'll def. look into them, but I don't see them being likely. I imagine many are around 70,000 miles, and it's what, 3-4 years old now? I'd recognize that has an engine that's probably seen a lot of time on the road at 16,000 miles per year on average. I, honestly, don't even put that much on 1 car.

^ So far, I think that is the only drawback on that magnifacent roadster. Other than that, the car is already very good if not excellent right out of the box. It is still the pinnacle of total driving experience in my book, even after driving the 996 GT3 and an [E39] M5. :)👍
But like those 2 examples, it's just costly. The only way I could afford to really keep an S2K is to lease one after the 330, and that'd have to be the new CR. However, the Honda dealers here refuse to lease me one for a reasonable price just because it's the CR and other factors. Plus, I'm pretty much set on the 335i.
-> If its still too pricey, might as well get the 1st or 2nd gen MX-5 Miata or an MR-S/MR-2 Spyder. They're light, reliable, and tons of aftermarket goodies to suit your wants and needs. ;)
I've been looking at them since they started getting a lot of mentions, but I can't believe the MR-2 Spyder would a better car than the first 2 generations.

It would depend on who is running the event. I've mostly seen lapping groups based on drivetrain, then maybe split those up into skill levels. Also for racing series, many organizations base their groupings by SCCA standards, so that's where you should check out things like car classes.

Also, you won't be racing right away. Check you local track where you will do the most tracking and find out who runs sessions there, and find out how they operate. Go down one day to spectate and talk to the organizers and drivers to see what they think of the whole deal. That might help you chose a car.

Then if you want to step it up and race, take a look at the closest series and what cars are running, how they divide up things etc etc.
So, rules will play a favor. Huh. Well, I'll look into that as well, then.

That black Legacy is serious business...I like it. I think a Subaru would probably be a really good choice since they are cheap, AWD, and can be tuned to annhilate Porsches fairly easily. Too bad the SVX is too heavy, it would be a fantastic car that could be made VERY fast. The older 200SX models with the V6 could be another choice. They look like...

Jerry_Markham_88_V6_200SX_SE.jpg


...that and they are super sweet. RWD+80's Japanese awesomeness+modern technology=uber ownage

Go here for more S12 good stuff: http://www.v6-s12.com/SE_Registry.htm
I have to thank you so much for that info. I've been seeing a car just like that for the past few weeks, and I never knew what it was. 👍

Of course, I probably won't be able to find one either like it. :p
Oh, and the US got Galant VR4's in 1991~1992--and that's it to my knowledge.
Def. a cool sport sedan. It just happens to have the problem many other cars have. Finding a good one.
Anyone mention Mazdaspeed Protegé yet? Definitely one of the better handling fwd cars out there. Would feel right at home on the autocross!
If you're feeling like a 2dr rwd vehicle for cheap, then get an FC RX-7 with a blown engine and drop in an LS1, winning combo if you want to go fast cheap. :) (Although I don't think I'd ever stick a V8 in my RX-7 any time soon)
I remember when those came out, and they're fairly uncommon. The Protege probably wouldn't need a lot of work on the suspension either. However, as Toronado said, they're stupidly rare. The closest one on Cars.com is all the way down in San Antonio for $10,000 and 55,000 miles.

The RX-7 though, sounds like a good choice. But the FC, like the Protege, is rare as can be. However, I did find 2 RX-7s on Cars.com last night that sound pretty good. The first is a 1989 w/ 39,000 miles, and a 5-speed priced at $8,800. The next one though is a '93 with a 5-speed, twin turbo, and 9,000 miles for a reasonable $17K. The car is just $2K over what I want to spend, but I'll be checking it out today or tomorrow.

Also forgot to mention that if you can, find a base model (RS) Integra and swap a JDM Type-R motor into it, and you'll have yourself a nice platform to work with. From there, bolt-on mods, possible turbo, etc. :) As for being able to find the 240sx, I agree. They're really tough to find, especially where I live. But it's also becoming increasingly tough to find an unmolested Integra, or one without substantial rust to it. I had to compromise for one with a little bit of quarter panel rust, but it's been bulletproof reliable thus far and I couldn't be happier with it.
The Integra sounds like a really good choice. I've been watching a lot of vids from them tracking, and they look as if the stock engine itself, has a lot of potential. But, how costly would a Type-R swap be?

My turn.

A few suggestions as far as cars go:
-E30 3 Series.
27bmwe30leadimagebu7.jpg

Be it a 325is or an M3. The 3XX's are very common, fairly cheap, and have strong motors (both the 318 and 325). Should you choose an E30, I'd strongly reccomend an is model over an i - The suspension is stronger and stiffer, and you probably get those nice honeycomb wheels. A later model (1988 and newer) is slightly more refined, powerful, and IMHO better looking than the earler models. The ultimate choice would be an M3, but they're both rare and expensive. On the upper end of your budget, but still obtainable.
Tough to find unbeat, and without needing maintenance, but I'm still looking.

The thing about these older BMW's though, is that they need to have the least amount of maintenance problems as much as possible. Classic BMW charges $68/hour, and I don't need them to inspect a car, and tell me, it needs a couple parts to be changed out.
-Miata.
04titaniumvx8.jpg

I'm the umpteenth person to suggest it, but it's only because they're top-notch cars for competition. Light, communicative & responsive (if you think left, you'll go left), common, cheap, and they have a huge aftermarket. Anyone who says it's a 'girly car' is obviously insecure, or compensating for something. Supercharger kits are available and make the car very potent.

-Datsun 240Z
autocross022sjz9.jpg

I'll admit that I don't know a whole lot about 240Z's, but the one pictured races with the local motorsports club and it absolutely whips the competition. You'll likely have to do a bit of restoration before you start the modifications, but the end result would be worth it.
The Miata is already a possible choice. The Datsun though, just takes time to find.
-DSM.
autocross006sei6.jpg

Despite an (unjust) reputation for being unreliable, a DSM - That is an Eagle Talon, Mitsubishi Eclipse, or a Plymouth Laser - could be a good car to start with. The 4G63T can yeild excellent power gains to the tune of 300-350 HP on the cheap, and the car itself is very reasonable, pricewise. Part of the unreliable reputation is that many DSMers are cheap, and neglect parts until they break... They need to be maintained, like any other car. Early 4G63's produced before 1995 are very strong engines that are immune to the dreaded crankwalk that second generation cars have. AWD cars have decent track potential despite the added weight (Or at least I hope so, I've got one!). They're easy to find, and have a very large and supportive community. Car pictured above is local and has been at a couple AutoX's and is quite competitive.
I'll check the DSM out then. Though most I've seen, are built for drag racing, and seem to be very well suited to it.
-C4 Corvette
800px1996corvettegrandsyp9.jpg

LT1 Engine, 6 Speed transmission, fairly common, good suspension and relative light weight make this a good starter car in my books. I'm sure they can be found for under $15k, and the LT1 has a massive aftermarket.
The C4 gen. sounds like a good choice, and it'd maybe take a few weeks to find a good one for around $15K and decent miles.

Edit - One last car.

-Skyline
autocross005sta9.jpg

Strong motor, massive aftermarket, relatively good handling, space to haul a few things around in, AWD. However, it's probably at the upper end of your budget, and hard to find or import.
Also a local car, one of the fastest at the AutoX's.
The only problem with this is location. Most Skylines in the US are no longer stock, and the owners will want stupid amounts of money for them now that the R32 & R34 are no longer legal.

Just throwing this out there, but what about a MX3? I had a V6 as my first car, and that thing seriously had fantastic handling out of the box. Don't know how big the aftermarket is on those though. Maybe get a four cylinder and scavenge some parts of a 323 GT-X turbo? How involved would a BFMR engine swap be? That would make a pretty awesome sleeper.

And Famine has decent things to say about them as well, from what I remember.
Strange choice, and I've never seen a lot of them tracked. I'll look further into them though.
 
As far as I know Crossfires aren't the best autocross vehicle. I know two guys with them that do autocross them (pretty much anyone around the age of 20 and has a parent that works for Chrysler around here has a Crossfire). They never do real well with, especially the guy with the roadster. You would be much better off with the S2000 or the cheaper Miata.
 
-Skyline
autocross005sta9.jpg

Strong motor, massive aftermarket, relatively good handling, space to haul a few things around in, AWD. However, it's probably at the upper end of your budget, and hard to find or import.
Also a local car, one of the fastest at the AutoX's.

There's an R32 GTS-Whatever for sale around here, apparently. For only $24,000.
 
A Chevy Z-24 Cavalier. It's not a Camaro, and they have loads of potential. Now, only if you could find one with under 170,000 miles. :ouch:
 
A Chevy Z-24 Cavalier. It's not a Camaro, and they have loads of potential. Now, only if you could find one with under 170,000 miles. :ouch:
They do have potential as handlers, but the 2.4 engine doesn't. Turbo it until it dies, I suppose. Either way, the car has an economy suspension like no other, with a McPherson strut front and a torsion-beam rear axle. The only reason they can handle decent is because they're fairly light. Honda may tune their Civics softly, but the same geometry that lent such a smooth ride in an EK sedan also allowed the Civic and Integra Type R to beat many a proper sports car. Can't say the same for the Cavalier.

So just forget about the Cavalier. American econo cars of the past were all junk. American econo cars were cheap because they made them cheap. Japanese econo cars were cheap because they paid their workers pennies a day. European econo cars are semi-affordable because the repair bills are out of this world.
 
Regarding a Type-R Swap, it's actually not very expensive. There are plenty of companies that offer them, you could probably get the JDM Type-R Engine & Transmission for relatively cheap. I'm not too familiar on swaps as I keep things stock, but I know it's not hard to get them :)
 
As far as I know Crossfires aren't the best autocross vehicle. I know two guys with them that do autocross them (pretty much anyone around the age of 20 and has a parent that works for Chrysler around here has a Crossfire). They never do real well with, especially the guy with the roadster. You would be much better off with the S2000 or the cheaper Miata.
I looked them up today, and I must agree. I didn't even find a lot of modifications available for them online.

Only 24 grand? Pick one up in Canada, GT-R's are going for as little as 12,000$
But wouldn't the car have to go through some inspection? Besides, that's a 3,000 mile trip to-and-from minimum. I'm not looking to travel over 100 miles at most anyway unless I absolutely have to.

A Chevy Z-24 Cavalier. It's not a Camaro, and they have loads of potential. Now, only if you could find one with under 170,000 miles. :ouch:
If I can't imagine Neons being track cars, I certainly can't imagine a Cavalier.

Oh, kind of like this one sort of?

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...oors=&transmission=&max_price=8000&cardist=15

And its a 5spd, drop the VG30DETT from the 300ZX and it would be one mean mofo on the track.
The price on it is cheap, but the miles are high. Of course, that saved cash would go to getting a better engine.

Regarding a Type-R Swap, it's actually not very expensive. There are plenty of companies that offer them, you could probably get the JDM Type-R Engine & Transmission for relatively cheap. I'm not too familiar on swaps as I keep things stock, but I know it's not hard to get them :)
I'll take a check on those, then as well.
 
Only 24 grand? Pick one up in Canada, GT-R's are going for as little as 12,000$

Heh, there's an R32 GTR on autotrader in ontario going for 9 grand. They're getting cheaper for some reason. There also happens to be an R32 GTS-T down the street from me. I should totally park my RX-7 beside him and just start taking pics haha.
 
Heh, there's an R32 GTR on autotrader in ontario going for 9 grand. They're getting cheaper for some reason. There also happens to be an R32 GTS-T down the street from me. I should totally park my RX-7 beside him and just start taking pics haha.

9 grand would be a rather sketchy example, I gotta admit. The 12 grand example was the lowest I saw in person, and it was pretty beat up, even before it was imported.

They are just getting imported more, that's all. My friend since kindergarten just outgrew his, moving on to more abstract track projects (not unlike this thread). He just built a mk4 Jetta, looking for some Porsche to tinker with now.
 
McLaren
But wouldn't the car have to go through some inspection? Besides, that's a 3,000 mile trip to-and-from minimum. I'm not looking to travel over 100 miles at most anyway unless I absolutely have to.

There are several companies in BC that import JDM vehicles - Skylines among them. They often go for 10-15K, and it's about a 50% ratio of modified to unmodified. You would have to take an inspection, but look at the drive this way: It's a great chance and excuse to take a road trip with your new car, and get to know it.

If you want a Skyline, then don't let importing it be what stops you.

Concerning an older E30, I thought your goal was to do your own work. Getting the maintenence items done yourself is a great way to get to know the vehicle, and you can also start learning before you start making modifications. If it's not your daily driver (and by the sound of it, this won't be), you can take all the time you want to get things right.
Also, $68/hour seems quite cheap to me. The shop rate around here is significantly higher - $75-90 an hour or more.


Another suggestion: Mk 1 GTI? Light as light can be, with a bit of room in the engine bay for a swap down the road.
 
The problem I would foresee with a Skyline in the states is getting parts and if you needed major service I'm willing to best most mechanics would have no idea how to fix them. I actually wanted one back in the spring and found an R32 in Ohio for $18,000 with 50,000 ish miles on it. The only thing that stopped me was the fact that out of the 5 auto shops I talked to not one of them knew what one was.
 
It really shouldn't be a big deal to find a knowledgeable shop... In Michigan I can see it being a bit more difficult....
But all you have to do is find a motorsports or tuning based shop. I'm sure there are some in McLaren's area.
 
There are several companies in BC that import JDM vehicles - Skylines among them. They often go for 10-15K, and it's about a 50% ratio of modified to unmodified. You would have to take an inspection, but look at the drive this way: It's a great chance and excuse to take a road trip with your new car, and get to know it.

If you want a Skyline, then don't let importing it be what stops you.
I recognize that I could import one in Canada, but would the car have to go through an inspection to get back here?
Concerning an older E30, I thought your goal was to do your own work. Getting the maintenence items done yourself is a great way to get to know the vehicle, and you can also start learning before you start making modifications. If it's not your daily driver (and by the sound of it, this won't be), you can take all the time you want to get things right.
Also, $68/hour seems quite cheap to me. The shop rate around here is significantly higher - $75-90 an hour or more.
Although you have a valid point, what I mean is that most E30s here have extremely worn engines because they've been driven hard, and would need a replacement sooner or later. I, personally, do not want to end up modifying an engine that's just going to need to be rebuilt entirely in a couple ten thousand miles.

Concerning the shops, though, the dealer charges me as long as the car is in the shop and the building is open.

In other words, if I bring the car in @ 10AM Sat., and find out it needs to stay overnight, I'm being charged $683 for that day, regardless of whether the car was worked on for that entire time. Then, I have to come back Monday, and say the car gets done at 12PM. I then get charged $340 for that day. That's a nice $1,023 being charged just to service the car. That may or may not include the cost of parts needing to ordered and changed.

Not saying that would happen, but that's how it works with the dealer. And seeing as it's used, it doesn't get the "No Maintenance Fees Ever" deal which only applies to MY 2004 models and after.
Another suggestion: Mk 1 GTI? Light as light can be, with a bit of room in the engine bay for a swap down the road.
Great car, so I'll give them a look.

The problem I would foresee with a Skyline in the states is getting parts and if you needed major service I'm willing to best most mechanics would have no idea how to fix them. I actually wanted one back in the spring and found an R32 in Ohio for $18,000 with 50,000 ish miles on it. The only thing that stopped me was the fact that out of the 5 auto shops I talked to not one of them knew what one was.
Exactly. I can not imagine the price of trying to maintain a Nissan Skyline in the US when even a Nissan dealer will uncommonly recognize it. And seeing as it's not offered here, and never was, I can rest a sure knowing the dealer will charge me an arm and a leg and give me some story that they "need to bring in a specialist."

A Skyline is just out of the question.
 
It really shouldn't be a big deal to find a knowledgeable shop... In Michigan I can see it being a bit more difficult....
But all you have to do is find a motorsports or tuning based shop. I'm sure there are some in McLaren's area.

There is a Nissan Skyline R34 in Plano, according to JCE (which may be the one that appeared at HIN Dallas 2007). However, I can guarantee for a fact there will be no places around here that will recognize the car. And those that do, will attempt what I know the dealer will.

Charge me more than necessary because it's a car not offered here, and would need "special parts overnight from Japan".
 
Concerning the shops, though, the dealer charges me as long as the car is in the shop and the building is open.

In other words, if I bring the car in @ 10AM Sat., and find out it needs to stay overnight, I'm being charged $683 for that day, regardless of whether the car was worked on for that entire time. Then, I have to come back Monday, and say the car gets done at 12PM. I then get charged $340 for that day. That's a nice $1,023 being charged just to service the car. That may or may not include the cost of parts needing to ordered and changed.

a good shop/ mechanic will only charge you for the book timeor actual time of the job being done. if the book time is 3 hours theyll charge you 3 hours whether it takes em three or nine. my mechanic charges me book or actual if the time taken is less than the book time. he always quotes me the book time though, so i know the very most that ill pay. i have yet to pay the full amount in four years going to him for my old benz.
 
Even though I could never prove it (Owners can check the car in the back, but they can't stay and watch) and it likely wouldn't happen, I feel that my experience with the dealer is enough to believe if the situation I described happen, there would be someone working on my car constantly.

That situation though was just to give anyone an idea of how expensive the maintenance could be for me.
 
I second what neanderthal said.

You should be getting estimates from shops, and you should be supplying your own parts whenever possible - Even getting them at list price at a parts store is usually cheaper than purchasing through the shop. You then get to choose exactly the parts you want, and you can research and decide on what you are going to supply.

For example, I took my car to a shop a few weeks ago to have a new clutch installed. I knew it was too big of a job for me to do in the time I had at home, and I knew I couldn't afford to have my only car off the road for three or four days. I chose my shop(Very easy for me, as I know most of the shop owners in the area by name), asked for a quote on labour, and supplied my own clutch. I also had them replace a seal while they had the transmission down (They supplied it), and a front axle (I supplied). I figure that I saved almost a thousand dollars on parts and labour by getting a few different quotes and supplying all my major parts.

While it's nice to be able to say that your car is dealer serviced, you actually aren't gaining much. Most private shops are just as professional and knowlegeable than a dealer is, and you'll save money as well, as dealers only use OEM parts that cost an arm and a leg over other replacements, and they often charge more for labour as well.
 
I second what neanderthal said.

You should be getting estimates from shops, and you should be supplying your own parts whenever possible - Even getting them at list price at a parts store is usually cheaper than purchasing through the shop. You then get to choose exactly the parts you want, and you can research and decide on what you are going to supply.

For example, I took my car to a shop a few weeks ago to have a new clutch installed. I knew it was too big of a job for me to do in the time I had at home, and I knew I couldn't afford to have my only car off the road for three or four days. I chose my shop(Very easy for me, as I know most of the shop owners in the area by name), asked for a quote on labour, and supplied my own clutch. I also had them replace a seal while they had the transmission down (They supplied it), and a front axle (I supplied). I figure that I saved almost a thousand dollars on parts and labour by getting a few different quotes and supplying all my major parts.

While it's nice to be able to say that your car is dealer serviced, you actually aren't gaining much. Most private shops are just as professional and knowlegeable than a dealer is, and you'll save money as well, as dealers only use OEM parts that cost an arm and a leg over other replacements, and they often charge more for labour as well.
Well, I really intend to make this car different. The reason my other BMWs have been taken to the dealer is for a few reasons.

The leased one is a lease for starters, so the factory can't mess something up and pin it on me. The other reason is that it's a new car, so I'm covered under their BMW Maintenance Program which can easily save some dough.
When I was running the M3 in the past, I basically didn't trust many other places with a car like it. Call it fear, call it babying, I just felt the car was in better hands being worked on by the dealer.

But like I was saying, I really do plan to supply parts. See, I'm not exactly an engine expert, so I will be relying heavily on engine information, depending on the car. I also know other dealers of "cheaper" manufacturers run business different, so depending on the car, I'll be getting into something new.


As for the service time, the dealer does it by the ways nean said. It's usually by booktime because every time I've taken the 330 in, it's in for one of those jobs under the BMW MP. The M3 was only in twice, once for a "checkup" which was a $75 fee under booktime, and once under the Actual Time since the car was getting new tires, and a part replaced in the engine. Actually, I could have avoided that had I brought the car in some other time instead of 1 hour before closing.
 
After a couple hours of searching, I've become very attached to the older M3s. Finding an E30 is impossible, but I'm surprised at how cheap these E36 models are.

Couple I found.
'97 M3 4-door
'95 M3 Coupe

Now, I originally did not really want a M3 because it wouldn't need much, but the prices are very low with reasonable mileage.
 
After a couple hours of searching, I've become very attached to the older M3s. Finding an E30 is impossible, but I'm surprised at how cheap these E36 models are.

Couple I found.
'97 M3 4-door
'95 M3 Coupe

Now, I originally did not really want a M3 because it wouldn't need much, but the prices are very low with reasonable mileage.

I'm confused, I didn't read the entire thread so I may have missed something, but it sounds like you want this to be a "toy" car that you can fix/modify a bit.

If your not going to be stuck commuting in traffic all day with it, and you plan on tracking the car at whatever level, why automatic? (And don't go all M5Power on me)

If your looking at E36 M3's I'd look for a decent condition 2 door model with a standard trans. Have a shop check it out, buy a good set of tires, and learn to drive.
 
I'm confused, I didn't read the entire thread so I may have missed something, but it sounds like you want this to be a "toy" car that you can fix/modify a bit.

If your not going to be stuck commuting in traffic all day with it, and you plan on tracking the car at whatever level, why automatic? (And don't go all M5Power on me)
I basically want it to be a track car, but is also open to being driven out on the road.

The only advantage of the Auto is using it to drive there, though since track events are normally over an hour away. But the reason I'm looking at Autos on M3's of all cars is because they are the cheapest M's available. Manual models go up to $15K & higher, but the mileage on them is higher than I'd like for my money. You may have missed it, but if I find a great car with decent mileage and a great price, I'm not going to back away because it's Auto.

In fact, I plan to keep this car to the point where I'd swap the transmission if it was an auto. When I want this to be a car I'll be keeping for a long time, I mean a long time.

Regarding 2 doors instead of 4-doors, I do realize the 2-door will be superior, but after watching videos of a DTM-tuned 4-door, I am confident I can still turn the 4-door into a fast car.
 

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