- 155
- Portugal
Just can't seem to drive these cars, and therefore, i can't complete menu book 42. Tips&Tricks?
Gr.1 how to drive? Tips&Tricks?
- Thread starter pedronfdsantos
- 23 comments
- 9,509 views
Pigems
Premium
- 9,215
- Canada
- TT_Pigems
What seems to be giving you the most grief with them?
- 155
- Portugal
Under and oversteer. Pure and simple like that. Undriveable for me 
- 36
- United States
- ptclaus98
I don't like how the ai can pull away from me in the wet on worn slicks when I'm on brand new inters. And I was 3 seconds quicker in the dry. Rain is so broken in this game
- 94
- Stuttgart
I always try to drive as "smoothly" as possible.Under and oversteer. Pure and simple like that. Undriveable for me
These vehicles do not like jerky steering movements at all.
The R18 tdi in particular is a bitchy pig (although I love it).
The only thing you can do to avoid oversteer is to be more gentle with the gas pedal. Stupidly high torque makes each of these "planes" turn quickly.
The only one you can beat around the tracks is the R18 Hybrid.
But it's annoying on fast routes, because PD has totally screwed up the hybrid system.
I actually only have understeer when I'm going too fast into Corners.
A gentle step on the brake helps a lot. Brake "hard" and release gently. Then it pulls the carts into the curve.
Again, be careful with the gas pedal, as the vehicle absorbs quite a bit of torque and turns even more easily when exiting a corner.
- 155
- Portugal
Thanks for all the tips.
- 94
- Stuttgart
You're Welcome Pal
- 155
- Portugal
- 110
- Taiwan
Tune the LSD down.
- 155
- Portugal
Care to detail please.
Pigems
Premium
- 9,215
- Canada
- TT_Pigems
I find 6/12/8 works well in a lot of RWD cars.
- 110
- Taiwan
You often see 30, 40, 50 after you changed to full customizable LSD (or the car equipped with it as default).
If you find it understeer when accelerating, tune down the acceleration value to something like 15, 20, 25 (or the value of normal LSD) and test it.
Similarly, if you find it understeer when braking, tune down the braking value and test it.
But doing this will sacrifice your ability to accelerate/brake, the full customizable LSD let you tune to a high value not available for normal LSD for a reason.
Or change how you drive: accelerate/brake on straight, release pedal, then turn. Or put in other words, stop accelerating/braking when you find yourself understeering, "releasing" the LSD, but clearly you better have conditioned your car to a manageable speed at that position in the corner or things will not be good ...
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- 68
- United Kingdom
If you're using a controller, have you increased the sensitivity? Faster cars like this have terribly slow turn-in with the default setting of 0, which feels just like understeer. I'd recommend trying 3 or 4 and see if that helps.
Not sure I agree with the suggestion to put TC on 5. It will help with the oversteer but is very aggressive and compromises acceleration out of corners.
Not sure I agree with the suggestion to put TC on 5. It will help with the oversteer but is very aggressive and compromises acceleration out of corners.
- 824
- United States
Which car are you using? Depending on the car you’ll have to make significant adjustments to the suspension settings to get it to handle decently on technical courses. I’ve found the 4WD Gr1 cars stock settings are absolute garbage for handling on technical courses. You can win Daytona with pretty much any Gr1 car and setup but St. Croix and Suzuka are different beasts. Easily completed Daytona with both GR010 and TS050. Tried MANY different setups with GR010 in St. Croix but the car is simply too heavy even with 980hp to keep up and best I could do was 2nd place. It’s even worse in Suzuka, 7th was the best I could place after several attempts and adjustments. It just wears through tires way too fast and RH do not offer enough traction to keep up on these courses.Under and oversteer. Pure and simple like that. Undriveable for me
Then I got the Mazda LM55 VGT Gr1. With this car I finished 1st in St. Croix on my first attempt by almost 20 seconds and that was after 2 costly spin outs in the rain. I used it to place 1st by almost 2 minutes in Suzuka on my first try as well, and that was with VERY conservative FM setting. Forgot I had it set to FM4 until 2nd to last lap.
- 30
- United Kingdom
Check out the tuning forum. There will be some good tunes for you to use there.
- 824
- United States
Any other time it ruins the drivability of the car for me.
- 242
- Taxachussetts
i think i stopped once for fuel on the entire gr1 menu book driving the 787b and won all races by over a minute on normal difficulty
- 1,538
- NRW - GT
Test drive the 919 Porsche... it's a 4x4 so almost never have traction problems. Then, just in case, the active countersteering assistant is basically a rescue parachute. ALL Gr1 actually help against understeer. significantly reduce the braking force when turning. Especially the Gr1. have heavy brakes and the slower you get the less downforce you have at the front and because the Gr1 are very light and long and flat they have little weight transfer. This blocks the front wheels. So start with 80-100% braking power and then quickly reduce it to 60-80%... it still decelerates a lot, but the car becomes steerable. The deeper you get into the curve, the less brake pressure you need.
- 45
- Germany
1. Get to know the track
2. Take the Mazda LM55 VGT Gr. 1
3. TC on 3 or higher values
The speed of these cars through the corners is overwhelming and you have to get used to that behaviour. Learnings are steep but once you get the feeling for a car on a course, it feels great.
But: it can be very frustrating at the beginning.
So the best advice I can give you is: Try, try, try!
2. Take the Mazda LM55 VGT Gr. 1
3. TC on 3 or higher values
The speed of these cars through the corners is overwhelming and you have to get used to that behaviour. Learnings are steep but once you get the feeling for a car on a course, it feels great.
But: it can be very frustrating at the beginning.
So the best advice I can give you is: Try, try, try!
- 913
- United States
Late to the party, but practice is king. Turn the power output and restrictor down to 70 and go grind Spa, Le Mans, or Sardegna for a couple days. Turn the power up to get the car to 800 PP on medium tires, repeat, switching Le Mans with Road Atlanta. Once you start winning, switch to IM tires and up the power again, this time stick to Spa or any other race where it rains. To max it all out, turn the power up to max or 950 PP, whichever comes first on either RH tires for races without rain or IM tires for races that might have rain. Run them til you drop. Road Atlanta and Daytona were easy for me, Suzuka was an absolute bear but I finally won.
Also as you go with each car, don't be afraid to use driving assists. It will take a LOT of practice but eventually you will be able to turn them off. I regularly run Road Atlanta at 950 PP with no auto drive, TCS at 1, and a manual transmission. Ditto for all the other "grind" races.
A word of caution on the "4 wheel drive" Group 1cars: the front wheels are powered by electric motors. The amount of power they have remaining is shown by a green bar in the fuel gauge. When the bar is empty, they don't work, meaning you have an MR drivetrain with 200 less horsepower and a lot of extra weight. Refilling the bar is done by coasting and braking. Some of these cars refill the bar in other ways, best to research the individual car to find out how.
The Ferrari F-XX-K is probably a good example of what should be a Group 1 race car, but it's actually a road car. If you can get it, use it, it'll help you learn to control these things. It's a true MR car, the electric motors work with the engine to power the rear wheels.
Also get the 787b and the F1500T-A if you can, they are fairly forgiving despite what the game says.
Also as you go with each car, don't be afraid to use driving assists. It will take a LOT of practice but eventually you will be able to turn them off. I regularly run Road Atlanta at 950 PP with no auto drive, TCS at 1, and a manual transmission. Ditto for all the other "grind" races.
A word of caution on the "4 wheel drive" Group 1cars: the front wheels are powered by electric motors. The amount of power they have remaining is shown by a green bar in the fuel gauge. When the bar is empty, they don't work, meaning you have an MR drivetrain with 200 less horsepower and a lot of extra weight. Refilling the bar is done by coasting and braking. Some of these cars refill the bar in other ways, best to research the individual car to find out how.
The Ferrari F-XX-K is probably a good example of what should be a Group 1 race car, but it's actually a road car. If you can get it, use it, it'll help you learn to control these things. It's a true MR car, the electric motors work with the engine to power the rear wheels.
Also get the 787b and the F1500T-A if you can, they are fairly forgiving despite what the game says.
- 269
- Canada
I found the Mazda LM55 in particular pretty forgivable - the Daytona race took me a fair few tries but I eventually got it. It more came down to knowing the circuit than the car.
Brake hard, enter the corner smooth (i.e. just coast into it) and be very smooth getting back on the power. Don't stab the throttle.
Now that I think about it, Daytona might be the best race to get used to these cars. Lots of camber changes, good mix of long sweeping corners and sharp corners with awkward approaches. Plus the Bus Stop will grow some hair on your chest.
Brake hard, enter the corner smooth (i.e. just coast into it) and be very smooth getting back on the power. Don't stab the throttle.
Now that I think about it, Daytona might be the best race to get used to these cars. Lots of camber changes, good mix of long sweeping corners and sharp corners with awkward approaches. Plus the Bus Stop will grow some hair on your chest.
- 18
- Turkey
- thecr1xalis
I’m a prototype addict so I can give you some tips. I will write some notes at the end.
You can carry a lot more speed into corners than you think with almost every gr.1 car. Exclusions to this fact are: Every Group C car, Toyota GR010 Hybrid (and equalivent lmh cars if they are ever added) and maybe the Audi VGT since it weighs even more than the GR010.
Seriously. You can take Road Atlanta turn 1 and the entirety of the porsche curves flat out with Gr.1 cars. This is the whole trick with this category. Fuel efficiency, blindingly fast acceleration and insane downforce.
From every Gr.1 I’ve tried (apart from the vision gt cars which I didn’t bother buying, aside from the tomahawk and the lm55) I can confidently say that The 2016 LMP1 trio and the GR010 are very balanced with their pace and fuel efficiency.
VGTs are blindingly fast but you need to save a lot of fuel for them to become viable. (My experience with the cars and looking at the ai’s strategies confirm my words)
Peugeot 908 HDi and the Toyota TS030 Hybrid are very nice alternatives to the 2016 LMP1 cars for Gr.1 events in singleplayer.
Audi R18 TDi (2011) and the Nissan GT-R LM Nismo are basically useless and are there for novelty. (I do thank PD for keeping the old body R18 alive since Slightly Mad didn’t bother with renewing their license in PC2 and nowhere else has it apart from raceroom)
Now going back to 2016 LMP1 cars; By the FIA regs they all have 1000 combined horsepower and are AWD under full power. I will cover them because they are the best picks for almost all of the tracks these cars have an event for. If you want me to cover another Gr.1 car not in this post please notify me.
The best of the bunch (and also overall) is easily the 919 Hybrid. It’s worth every credit. It has the best fuel efficiency out of the 3 cars and has the most downforce. It is also the slowest of them all in a straight line. It has an F1-esque MGU-H and MGU-K which means it regenerates electric energy while you’re not using the electric engine, while lifting and while braking. The electric engines are a bit too aggressive though since it was in the 8MJ class and it will understeer under full throttle.
Second best is the Toyota TS050 Hybrid. It has the second best fuel efficiency, it’s way easier to maneuver under full power. It has better straight line speed than the 919. Unlike the 919, this car can only regenerate its energy when off throttle or under braking. A tip I can give you with this car is to drive it like you’re driving in a WEC race. Lift and coast into corners and try extending your braking distance for maximum regeneration.
The Audi R18 (2016) is very close to the TS050 on one lap pace and both drive similarly, but unfortunately this car lacks an MGU-H which means you can only regenerate energy under braking. Lifting an coasting is only useful if you need to save fuel, otherwise try extending your braking zones a lot with this car to not run out of hybrid energy at sector 3 of every track.
I should add that all of these cars are very kind on their tyres even on no downforce.
The trick to tune them is to either remove all downforce so you can be competitive on the straights while having more downforce or similar downforce compared to every other car on the grid (basically running a true le mans kit) or increase downforce and shorten their gears so you top out at 310 KM/H like in real life events other than LM24. Another tip i can give you is to soften the rear anti roll bar by 1-2 clicks and soften the rear suspension frequency down to at least 3.75. Also lower the rear differential under acceleration as much as you can tolerate because they will bite on throttle.
Lastly I’ll cover the GR010. In short this car feels like how an old LMP1 in previous games feel. It’s the most recent real prototype car in the game so far. This car becomes useful in longer events or in races where you need a lot of straight line speed and average downforce like the Daytona Road Course Gr.1 event. It has AWD starting at 120 KM/H and lasts until the end of 5th gear. I recommend you to soften the rear suspension frequency and the rear anti roll bar as much as you can tolerate and also decrease the LSD accel and also turn the TCS on. (And the lights on the steering wheel actually mean something. When TC engages there’s a light that comes up and when hybrid engages there is also a separate light that comes up like the real car)
That’s all I wanna write rn. Thanks for reading. I can answer any questions you have and I have guides on some of these races on my youtube channel. I may write about the TS030 and the 908 next
You can carry a lot more speed into corners than you think with almost every gr.1 car. Exclusions to this fact are: Every Group C car, Toyota GR010 Hybrid (and equalivent lmh cars if they are ever added) and maybe the Audi VGT since it weighs even more than the GR010.
Seriously. You can take Road Atlanta turn 1 and the entirety of the porsche curves flat out with Gr.1 cars. This is the whole trick with this category. Fuel efficiency, blindingly fast acceleration and insane downforce.
From every Gr.1 I’ve tried (apart from the vision gt cars which I didn’t bother buying, aside from the tomahawk and the lm55) I can confidently say that The 2016 LMP1 trio and the GR010 are very balanced with their pace and fuel efficiency.
VGTs are blindingly fast but you need to save a lot of fuel for them to become viable. (My experience with the cars and looking at the ai’s strategies confirm my words)
Peugeot 908 HDi and the Toyota TS030 Hybrid are very nice alternatives to the 2016 LMP1 cars for Gr.1 events in singleplayer.
Audi R18 TDi (2011) and the Nissan GT-R LM Nismo are basically useless and are there for novelty. (I do thank PD for keeping the old body R18 alive since Slightly Mad didn’t bother with renewing their license in PC2 and nowhere else has it apart from raceroom)
Now going back to 2016 LMP1 cars; By the FIA regs they all have 1000 combined horsepower and are AWD under full power. I will cover them because they are the best picks for almost all of the tracks these cars have an event for. If you want me to cover another Gr.1 car not in this post please notify me.
The best of the bunch (and also overall) is easily the 919 Hybrid. It’s worth every credit. It has the best fuel efficiency out of the 3 cars and has the most downforce. It is also the slowest of them all in a straight line. It has an F1-esque MGU-H and MGU-K which means it regenerates electric energy while you’re not using the electric engine, while lifting and while braking. The electric engines are a bit too aggressive though since it was in the 8MJ class and it will understeer under full throttle.
Second best is the Toyota TS050 Hybrid. It has the second best fuel efficiency, it’s way easier to maneuver under full power. It has better straight line speed than the 919. Unlike the 919, this car can only regenerate its energy when off throttle or under braking. A tip I can give you with this car is to drive it like you’re driving in a WEC race. Lift and coast into corners and try extending your braking distance for maximum regeneration.
The Audi R18 (2016) is very close to the TS050 on one lap pace and both drive similarly, but unfortunately this car lacks an MGU-H which means you can only regenerate energy under braking. Lifting an coasting is only useful if you need to save fuel, otherwise try extending your braking zones a lot with this car to not run out of hybrid energy at sector 3 of every track.
I should add that all of these cars are very kind on their tyres even on no downforce.
The trick to tune them is to either remove all downforce so you can be competitive on the straights while having more downforce or similar downforce compared to every other car on the grid (basically running a true le mans kit) or increase downforce and shorten their gears so you top out at 310 KM/H like in real life events other than LM24. Another tip i can give you is to soften the rear anti roll bar by 1-2 clicks and soften the rear suspension frequency down to at least 3.75. Also lower the rear differential under acceleration as much as you can tolerate because they will bite on throttle.
Lastly I’ll cover the GR010. In short this car feels like how an old LMP1 in previous games feel. It’s the most recent real prototype car in the game so far. This car becomes useful in longer events or in races where you need a lot of straight line speed and average downforce like the Daytona Road Course Gr.1 event. It has AWD starting at 120 KM/H and lasts until the end of 5th gear. I recommend you to soften the rear suspension frequency and the rear anti roll bar as much as you can tolerate and also decrease the LSD accel and also turn the TCS on. (And the lights on the steering wheel actually mean something. When TC engages there’s a light that comes up and when hybrid engages there is also a separate light that comes up like the real car)
That’s all I wanna write rn. Thanks for reading. I can answer any questions you have and I have guides on some of these races on my youtube channel. I may write about the TS030 and the 908 next
