Gran Turismo 7 Engine Swap Compatibility

  • Thread starter Famine
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Hmmm,
I just bought one from the LEGENDS showroom. Cost 30 grand, but probably worth around 2000 new in 1945.

No guys, I change my oil after every race, just like in real life. I use my 787B lots and there has been no degradation whatsoever in more than 2 years of racing it at LeMans and Spa. Don't worry, be happy!
Actually now that you mention it I'm sure I've done a ridiculous amount of oil changes on my 787b because it mostly paid for the rest of my garage, haven't noticed any deterioration either but can check vs what it should be tonight.
 
I feel like some of the (obscure/odd) engine swaps might be reference to certain tuning/swap projects...

  • 2JZ-GTE-Supra to GR Yaris: Daigo Saito's Cusco GR Yaris
  • M158-AMG-Huayra to Supra RZ '97: Top Secret V12 Supra
  • V8-Suzuki-VGT-Gr.3 to BRZ S '15: JUN Auto "Synergy V8" BRZ (car in question used Kawasaki Ninja-based V8)
  • R26B-787B to Mazda3: Mad Mike's Pikes Peak Red Bull Mazda3
  • CTR38-CTR3 to 993 Carrera RS: RUF BTR2 (lower displacement, though)
  • P65B44-Z4 to E46 M3: M3 GTR?
Hope so

Ferrari v8 in a wrx might be in the future then.
 
Volkswagen ID.R motor into Volkswagen sambabus please 😀

 
The Enzo swapped F40 is easily my favorite road car now. Such a beast of a machine, so much fun to drive. A road car that is almost as light as an '89 Miata (when both fully weight reduced) and puts down 900hp as well as it does is honestly so unfair.

The highlight of the swap for me is not the fact it has a lot of power and goes really fast in a straight line. The Enzo engine is NA and has a very linear powerband and instant throttle response, which allows me to be even more precise with throttle inputs and encourages me to rely on my right foot to steer it through a corner as opposed to using the steering wheel.

Oh, and it's really frickin' fast.
 
I can only dream about these engine swaps, i havn`t got the credits or the level 50...:crazy:
😭

Its not the end of the world mate , am on level 50 but never did a swap till now except one that i don't use it anymore.
Most of them are used as a kind of " glitch" for griding races especially at Tokyo or lemans.
Swaps was a luxury for older players witch they had the majority of LCD cars and took advantage of an old glitch that provide them with unlimited engines in the past.
Now its for everyone but shouldn't be a priority for a new player .
Perhaps except very few of them that can be used for Tokyo race and make your life easier if you like that race .
Don't know what level or menu you are but on LCD section they are cars that you need them and its better save for them than spending on swaps .
For example, its way better to spend for a group C car as 962 ,787 , RCP than make a pricey swap instead.

So take your time and they will come to you .
Also take note that aren't always a " success" and all that extra power doesn't come without cost .
Of course anyone can do what he likes but swap section shouldn't be a priority for new players in my opinion.
Also its good to open from level 50 since is a luxury you can afford after this level.
 
Does anyone have a good tune for the 4 rotor swapped FD RX7? I've spent many hours trying to make mine handle well and it's been an absolute disaster. Possibly one of the worst handling cars I have. Mine is at stock weight (2800 lb) and stock power (690 hp) with widebody & chassis stiffening, front and rear downforce, customized suspension, LSD and transmission. I CANNOT find a tune that has good turn in (any turn in really) while still having a stable rear end (on or off throttle). Using RH tires.

(if not allowed to post this here, apologies)
Start by setting the suspension, lsd and transmission up to the stock settings. Drive it and make one small change at a time. Lower the ride height in 5mm steps. Get it to low and the finders will grab the tires. It's likely the aero balance is off as well. Turn the rear aero down till it loses pp. Then back up that one step to max pp. Then the front aero up till it loses pp or is maxed out. That will be your baseline.
 
Start by setting the suspension, lsd and transmission up to the stock settings. Drive it and make one small change at a time. Lower the ride height in 5mm steps. Get it to low and the finders will grab the tires. It's likely the aero balance is off as well. Turn the rear aero down till it loses pp. Then back up that one step to max pp. Then the front aero up till it loses pp or is maxed out. That will be your baseline.
Thanks, will try that approach.
 
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How beneficial is the VR38DETT swap into the Silvia Gr.4?
It might become more powerful but the fuel consumption of road cars is higher... (The engine swap affects the fuel consumption, too)

I know it's the only Gr.4 with changeable engine, but... I'm not sure it's useful when it needs more pit stops in endurance races...
 
How beneficial is the VR38DETT swap into the Silvia Gr.4?
It might become more powerful but the fuel consumption of road cars is higher... (The engine swap affects the fuel consumption, too)

I know it's the only Gr.4 with changeable engine, but... I'm not sure it's useful when it needs more pit stops in endurance races...
Considerably beneficial, from what I recall.
It’s been quite awhile since I ran the swapped Silvia Gr.4, and I think I only ran it once (maybe twice?), so I can’t remember the specifics in regards to how many laps you can get at what FM setting or what the weather was when I did, but I do remember it was actually quite a good increase in overall getting around the track-ability and was considerably faster with the swap. I don’t remember having to pit after every single lap like some road some cars require, but even if you had to, especially in the races where you get the rain and need to pit for different tires anyways, you’re still going to come out “better” with the swap. I think I got 2 maybe 3 laps per tank with a high FM setting, but not sure what FM I was set on or what the weather impact was on pitting. It was a much easier win than with the stock Gr.4 though. But don’t expect to build such a huge lead you can sit at the line for 5 mins after lap 6 to end the race right at 30 min. like you can with other swapped cars.
Having said all that, I think there have been at least 3 or 4 updates since I did that and at least 1 of them has had a significant impact on the PP valuations because of physics changes, so it might be a very different experience in 1.34.
 
Considerably beneficial, from what I recall.
It’s been quite awhile since I ran the swapped Silvia Gr.4, and I think I only ran it once (maybe twice?), so I can’t remember the specifics in regards to how many laps you can get at what FM setting or what the weather was when I did, but I do remember it was actually quite a good increase in overall getting around the track-ability and was considerably faster with the swap. I don’t remember having to pit after every single lap like some road some cars require, but even if you had to, especially in the races where you get the rain and need to pit for different tires anyways, you’re still going to come out “better” with the swap. I think I got 2 maybe 3 laps per tank with a high FM setting, but not sure what FM I was set on or what the weather impact was on pitting. It was a much easier win than with the stock Gr.4 though. But don’t expect to build such a huge lead you can sit at the line for 5 mins after lap 6 to end the race right at 30 min. like you can with other swapped cars.
Having said all that, I think there have been at least 3 or 4 updates since I did that and at least 1 of them has had a significant impact on the PP valuations because of physics changes, so it might be a very different experience in 1.34.
6 laps, and wait for 5 min, why? Like you get 7 laps done easily in less than 30 min, unless it rains a lot. Usually I have to wait around 20-60 sec, depending on the car I use.
 
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