Gran Turismo 7: Latest news and discussion thread

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Why wasn’t I told I would need IM tires for the WGT championship…. Instead I find out mid championship that I need to pit for the IMs at Sarthe and basically can’t finish the race since hards won’t get any traction. So ok. Lame. I have to EXIT the championship to buy IMs?! Lol what.
I took some inters into the championship, but didn't need them. For the races where I figured it was most likely to rain:

  • Spa, it rained for quite a while, but never got wet enough to need inters - the 'lack-of-grip' meter never went above the first bar, so I was able to nurse the car round on my slicks
  • Le Mans, I saw a couple of drops of rain appear on the windscreen in one corner and... that was it... completely cleared up
  • Nurburgring, it stayed dry all the way through
I like the fact that weather can vary between two attempts of the same event. I ran the 3-lap FR race at Tsukuba three times over the last couple of days - the first run it rained for the last two laps, the second run it stayed dry but went dark by the end of the race, and the third race it started to go dark but finished while the sun was still setting.

I agree with suggestions I've seen elsewhere on this thread that it would be good to have a weather forecast before you start a race though. It would help to be able to make a rough plan of when to aim for a stop.

It would also be good if cars fitted with slick tyres would also come with inters & wets automatically. I could maybe understand having to buy wet weather tyres separately if I was upgrading a road car to racing slicks, but a GT3 car should probably come with them already. Similarly, I think the Group B rally cars should come with a set of slicks, a set of wets and a set of dirt tyres as standard (but snow should still be an extra upgrade, if it gets added later)
 
Why wasn’t I told I would need IM tires for the WGT championship…. Instead I find out mid championship that I need to pit for the IMs at Sarthe and basically can’t finish the race since hards won’t get any traction. So ok. Lame. I have to EXIT the championship to buy IMs?! Lol what.
I won the race at Le Mans on softs, it started raining on lap 2 and the rain ended at the beginning of lap 3 as the AI made their pit stops. It threw the rest of the field so much out of order that I had an 18 point lead heading into the last two races.
 
Really not a fan of how spotty some of the mapping is on these cars for laying decals onto.

Trying to place a straight line across the nose of the ZR-1 Corvette, for example when it's got the aero kit on it, is pretty much impossible when you want to line it up right above the top of the lower intake. When you're making small adjustments the decal layer will start freaking out and disappear, start warping across and up along the straight line, and along the edges it just curles up so it's very, very difficult to get things to line up from the front to the side.

Also, is it just me or is there no way to adjust the spring rate of the cars with the fully customizable suspension? I keep looking for a setting to adjust the spring rates in either lbs or kg/mm and it doesn't seem to exist.
 
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When you're making small adjustments the decal layer will start freaking out and disappear, start warping across and up along the straight line, and along the edges it just curles up so it's very, very difficult to get things to line up from the front to the side.
You need to increase the layer depth projection to avoid this disappearing act decals do
 
Really not a fan of how spotty some of the mapping is on these cars for laying decals onto.

Trying to place a straight line across the nose of the ZR-1 Corvette, for example when it's got the aero kit on it, is pretty much impossible when you want to line it up right above the top of the lower intake. When you're making small adjustments the decal layer will start freaking out and disappear, start warping across and up along the straight line, and along the edges it just curles up so it's very, very difficult to get things to line up from the front to the side.

Also, is it just me or is there no way to adjust the spring rate of the cars with the fully customizable suspension? I keep looking for a setting to adjust the spring rates in either lbs or kg/mm and it doesn't seem to exist.
It’s measured in I hertz/frequency now… I hate it man I have no clue how to convert to Kg/mm into that mess… I heard though that’s a good way to dial in your suspension but still give me back the old formula!
 
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So I need to install HCP first on a, for example, a BMW M3 and then I can install a turbo?
If you want the extra power, yes.
But if you cannot put in a turbo, then it will (of course) not work.
And with install I mean the buy and install option fron the tuner menu, not settings menu.

Normaly we can have HCP on naturaly aspirated cars only.
But with the bug? we can use them on turbo and maybe supercharger converted ones too.
 
Ok, I think I’ve identified why (or at least part of why) I’ve been struggling to keep cars under control on GT7, and it’s really frustrating.

On controller there’s smoothing of the steering input, but it’s dramatically increased over the implementation on GT Sport, and as well limits the angle you can turn the wheel above certain speeds. For example - I’m using the C3 Corvette at Willow Springs, and on entry into T1 with no throttle or brake I felt like I was getting massive understeer, but I wasn’t getting any vibration/haptic feedback, nor any audio cues telling me my tires were scrubbing. I’m only running minor aero and weight reduction and custom suspension on SH tires, and was primarily using the rear dampening setting to reduce the snap oversteer and wheel spin. With the amount of front toe out, camber, and front roll bar I’m running there shouldn’t be much understeer going on in most scenarios (in fact it should be pretty oversteery...).

So I kept restarting and running it over and over again, until I finally noticed my steering input indicator (red dot above the rev gauge on the HUD) was stopping only halfway to the edge, if even, while I was pushing the stick as far as it would go, and the input reading wouldn’t budge any further as I coasted around the corner. Ironically too, I pulled the car to a stop to make sure it wasn’t a problem with the controller and no, it’s totally fine, but also the max reading on the input indicator is only around half-2/5ths of the cars maximum steering angle, the wheels continue to turn waaay past it at rest. So I tried again, this time letting the car coast to as low a speed as I could, and it wouldn’t move a millimeter past half input until the car was going under 60mph (and I should be able to take this corner at 90+). So the game is locking me to 20% lock or less in almost any racing circumstance save for a really sharp hairpin, and this goes too for countersteering. So if the tail kicks out to a greater angle than this 20% lock, I have no chance at correcting it because the game will stop me from turning the wheels far enough to do so.

I can keep things in line sub-60 but above that it’s like I have some sort of assist stuck on, and it’s pissing me off. This game has too much hand-holding, if I say I know what I’m doing let me play the game and drive the car. Punish me for going over the limits of the physics, not some artificial input wall.

*Edit: I’ve now been unable to keep my eyes off the input indicator, and I think I now know why the car sometimes snaps into an over correct - when you’re just on the limit of saving it, the car may drift under the 60mph threshold and release more of the steering lock limit, and suddenly the front wheels snap further, grip up, and shoot the car the other way.

Also, upon reaching the final turn it looks like lock limit goes down to around 1/3rd of the rev limiter, so like maybe 15% of maximum lock.

I’m bashing my head against the wall. 🤬🤬🤬
It's the same thing driving the r32 skyline.

Itll only do half lock in tight turns. I have to jerk the wheel vack and forth for it to go full lock.

Its ****ing stupid.

The game definitely is riddled with hand holding and aids.

Just let me play it without any of that crap!!!
 
You might have solved my understeer problem too. My 308GTB "conversion" basically worked but with wider and much bigger wheels and the clearance down to 5mm, it looked great but was a pig on anything tight. I've got a feeling the Camaro I've set up for the final menu 800PP Championship might have the same problem, I've not really tried it yet. Raise and tighten time, I think!
Nope, I've ruined that Camaro. It's like a proper muscle car now - great in a straight line🤣. The Tom's Castrol Supra (thank you pre-order bonus) was a bit underpowered, so it's now got RS tyres and a turbo and can keep up OK. 2nd at Deep Forest, 4th (due to mist, a greasy track and some overly optimistic driving) at Spa. Sarthe this evening, see if I can make up some places.
 
I can make up the missing 65k in 3 minutes at Fishermans Ranch. The race was fun and that's what matters. I'm sure they will fix the payout on that race soon enough. The others are 70,000.

Well to be honest that 70K payout for the 10 lap endurance races is still not enough to be honest. And custom races is even worse. The rewards vs effort in this game is all over the place and in most situations it’s really bad.
 
I got caught out on my first Championship. So much rain at the Red Bull track that the start/finish straight had a blue bit on the depth indicator, like driving through a lake. Since then, any car I'm entering in a Championship gets IMs as well as RS or RM and I set up a wet sheet and a dry sheet to max the allowable PP with each set.

Do you mean that in between races you chance your setup sheet? Because during a race (pitstop) you can change tires but not your settings (I think at least).

I don’t think I ever played a game before where tyre compound also affects PP. Honestly I think it’s stupid. Soft tyres have more grip but wear down quicker than hard tyres. That already is the balance between them, PP should not be thrown in the mix there.

What I do for championships is just choose my racing tyre compound aforehand (RS, RM or RH) and max my PP with that. If during a race I need to drop to wet or intermediates I know the PP drops but so be it.

I never switch out between RS - RM - RH during a race because… it makes no sense anymore. Choose aforehand which ones you want to max your PP with and stick with them. But have wets and inters at the ready.
 
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Well to be honest that 70K payout for the 10 lap endurance races is still not enough to be honest. And custom races is even worse. The rewards vs effort in this game is all over the place and in most situations it’s really bad.
But that’s your opinion and like he said for a clean lap you get 35k on top of that.. what’s strange to me is many just want to go for the highest paid events.. ok that’s cool I don’t and some others don’t care about JUST the payouts and actually enjoy just racing. To set your own grid and race has been really fun for me.. shoot when I’m testing a car I’ll set up other cars just to make is seem like a testing day. Some people don’t care about that and I respect that, play your game how you want.

I’m aware of some of the events with terrible payouts and I agree with others they should be change however you think that’s going to stop me from enjoying the game?? Everyone acting like we only have 1 month to play GT7.. “ you gotta maximize your payouts omg” like nah man I’ll be playing this for the next couple of years… I literally just stop playing GTS last week. GT7 overall is way better than GTS.. does this game need work absolutely is it the end of the world never it’s a game for our fun, you not having fun cool don’t play the game and That’s not to sound rude or anything.
 
I don’t think I ever played a game before where tyre compound also affects PP. Honestly I think it’s stupid. Soft tyres have more grip but wear down quicker than hard tyres. That already is the balance between them, PP should not be thrown in the mix there.
It makes sense though when races usually don't have tire wear on and are really short.
 
I'm able to buy cars. Just bought a new car this morning.
Glad for you... Im not .. used ,new , legendary, i get gold to all moby dick mission and when it was about to receive the cars the game keep crashes.. even from roulette when i win a car the game crashes ..
I going crazy... From this update the game is unplayable when you can receive cars..
 
I have the same issues with certain cars and the steering locking up. Using a GT DD wheel. It seemed to lessen or go away when I raised the front ride height up but maybe not. It definitely seems to be a bug. I can turn the physical wheel farther, and it locks in game, typically when ABS is kicking on? Which is happening at very low speeds, mid corner, and I'm gently on the brake? But yea, then I'll come off the brakes and the in-game wheel will snap to full lock and the physical wheel FFB snaps.

It's very weird.
 
Glad for you... Im not .. used ,new , legendary, i get gold to all moby dick mission and when it was about to receive the cars the game keep crashes.. even from roulette when i win a car the game crashes ..
I going crazy... From this update the game is unplayable when you can receive cars..
Do you play on PS4 or PS5? I'm playing on PS5.. maybe that's the difference?
 
Not sure if this has been mentioned but I attempted to buy an Evo IV in the ucd and it kicked me out of the game altogether..says "oops something went wrong" and I find myself on the PS5 home screen.
 
Do you mean that in between races you chance your setup sheet? Because during a race (pitstop) you can change tires but not your settings (I think at least).

I don’t think I ever played a game before where tyre compound also affects PP. Honestly I think it’s stupid. Soft tyres have more grip but wear down quicker than hard tyres. That already is the balance between them, PP should not be thrown in the mix there.

What I do for championships is just choose my racing tyre compound aforehand (RS, RM or RH) and max my PP with that. If during a race I need to drop to wet or intermediates I know the PP drops but so be it.

I never switch out between RS - RM - RH during a race because… it makes no sense anymore. Choose aforehand which ones you want to max your PP with and stick with them. But have wets and inters at the ready.
I'll be honest, I've only done Championships with a max of 5 laps so far - making a pitstop hadn't even occurred to me. So my choice between RH,RM or RS is pretty much the same thought process as you - pick one and then max the PP accordingly. But the pitstop is an interesting thought. On a 5 lap race do I lose more time because I'm either a) aquaplaning in a hilarious manner or b) in the pits swapping to IMs? Any thoughts?
 
I got the PS4 version of the game, but I’m thinking of waiting for some more patches/bugfixes until I actually start playing it. I did install the data disk, too. In the meantime, I’m gonna wrap up the trophy list for the limited-release PS4 port of Ace Combat 5, then start Metroid: Samus Returns on my 3DS. Hopefully, I won’t be 100% done with the latter by the time I feel comfortable actually starting GT7. Otherwise, I can comfortably wait for some more bugfixes - especially in regards to Sport Mode and any potential game-breaking bugs.
 
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I’m aware of some of the events with terrible payouts and I agree with others they should be change however you think that’s going to stop me from enjoying the game?? Everyone acting like we only have 1 month to play GT7.. “ you gotta maximize your payouts omg” like nah man I’ll be playing this for the next couple of years… I literally just stop playing GTS last week. GT7 overall is way better than GTS.. does this game need work absolutely is it the end of the world never it’s a game for our fun, you not having fun cool don’t play the game and That’s not to sound rude or anything.
This is me too. I pre-ordered and got the 1.5mil bonus but I've played the game as though it wasn't there. Other than the Japanese hatch you have to pick at the beginning (and, if I'd thought about it, I'd have bought the cheapest and used the bonus Yaris to monster those first races instead, but I didn't) I've literally bought two cars. An E-Type from the Legendary because it looked nice, and a Focus ST because I wanted to import the BTCC Napa livery from my GTS account (I know, sad!). Everything I've spent has been on tuning. Why buy a Gr.B Focus as recommended for the Gr.B menu races when I could spend probably a similar amount improving the stock Impreza instead. Much more fun.
 
Im playing in ps5
Mate..
This is an example from the brand Central.
Is the same everywhere when i buy a car or receiving as gift..
The game is unplayable since the last update..
Its like i pay for a game that I can't play..

 
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I'll be honest, I've only done Championships with a max of 5 laps so far - making a pitstop hadn't even occurred to me. So my choice between RH,RM or RS is pretty much the same thought process as you - pick one and then max the PP accordingly. But the pitstop is an interesting thought. On a 5 lap race do I lose more time because I'm either a) aquaplaning in a hilarious manner or b) in the pits swapping to IMs? Any thoughts?
Before the update i pitted at le man for IM tires,watched pit crew change tires,but when i checked tires for the next race i still had RS tires on,so whether they fixed that i don't know, i had rain this morning,pitted and thought i had purchased wet tires for my Corvette but no,came out in 7th place,track had dried up for the most part and i was able to catch/pass leaders.
I think on my next race there i will pit and see if they will install IM's, it's easy to catch leaders.
 
I took some inters into the championship, but didn't need them. For the races where I figured it was most likely to rain:

  • Spa, it rained for quite a while, but never got wet enough to need inters - the 'lack-of-grip' meter never went above the first bar, so I was able to nurse the car round on my slicks
  • Le Mans, I saw a couple of drops of rain appear on the windscreen in one corner and... that was it... completely cleared up
  • Nurburgring, it stayed dry all the way through
I like the fact that weather can vary between two attempts of the same event. I ran the 3-lap FR race at Tsukuba three times over the last couple of days - the first run it rained for the last two laps, the second run it stayed dry but went dark by the end of the race, and the third race it started to go dark but finished while the sun was still setting.

I agree with suggestions I've seen elsewhere on this thread that it would be good to have a weather forecast before you start a race though. It would help to be able to make a rough plan of when to aim for a stop.

It would also be good if cars fitted with slick tyres would also come with inters & wets automatically. I could maybe understand having to buy wet weather tyres separately if I was upgrading a road car to racing slicks, but a GT3 car should probably come with them already. Similarly, I think the Group B rally cars should come with a set of slicks, a set of wets and a set of dirt tyres as standard (but snow should still be an extra upgrade, if it gets added later)


Yeah it was super odd. It started raining on the second lap and the rain meter was right around 1 bar. I could easily make it around the track but just needed to take it a little slower. Then at the end of lap 2 everybody dove into the pits but I stayed out on the hards. The rain meter really never changed, maybe got up to 1.2 bars.... and I couldn't make it to the dunlop bridge after I stayed out on the hards for lap 3. I just kept slipping and sliding all over the place. So ok..... that sucked.

I retry that race and it does the EXACT same thing.. So this time I jump into the pits for the IMs and theres no IMs to be found. I just assumed, probably from GTS, that IMs would be standard equipment on a race car.
 
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