GT and the understeer tradition

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I had a full 16 people lobby yesterday watching my skills to drive. They just watched....... and they where very impressed and how smooth i was but still fast.

The thing is to exactly compromisse understeer and grip level. Say you enter a corner too fast your car will always understeer and then throw the rear out(depends on car ofc). And thats becuse the front gets grip and the rear does not. Also almost all newer cars are built to understeer to avoid sliding.

Slow in, fast out. Also a good tip is to try drive tight in some corners, espacially long sweeping corners, take the tight line there.
 
Trail braking is just something you must not do with regular tires. Brake before turning the wheel, otherwise you slide straight off the track. That's also the first thing they teach you at safe-driving school. NEVER brake while turning.

pffft hugely depends on the car and conditions. Sometimes tail braking is the btetter choice.
 
I would just say these magic words.

"Learn to drive"

The cars drive fine as long as you aren't entering corners at mach 1. Pay attention to your speedometer, sometimes you are going faster than you think. I have no problem driving any of the cars, I can however see how someone who isn't good will have the issues you are talking about.
 
I would just say these magic words.

"Learn to drive"

The cars drive fine as long as you aren't entering corners at mach 1. Pay attention to your speedometer, sometimes you are going faster than you think. I have no problem driving any of the cars, I can however see how someone who isn't good will have the issues you are talking about.

...you've read his posts, right? Particularly the parts about holding a couple of records (thus knowing how to drive) and then the stuff about the G27 issues.
 
For trailbraking to work like it should ABS needs to be off....

My experience with the GT5 platform is they don't need to be off. You can certainly rotate the car easy with ABS at 1.

If people treat their brakes like an on off button, I guarantee you no car will handle; that is why most people can only play with soft racing slicks only.

If people think the brake is there for the sole purpose of decreasing speed. You are doing it way wrong. Read up on anything that is written by Mario Andretti. Any joe can pin the throttle to the floor, only winners know how to use the brakes.
 
...you've read his posts, right? Particularly the parts about holding a couple of records (thus knowing how to drive) and then the stuff about the G27 issues.

I read his first post which said he was drunk, uses a G27, and that the cars understeer or oversteer too much which to me is always a sign of a driver issue not a car issue.
 
According to the ABS driving assist description, trail braking would be most effective with the maximum ABS setting, which in short sacrifices maximum stopping power in favor of better cornering stability while braking.
 
lol. I think a lot of this has to do with the sensation of speed and momemtum you get out of the game is not the same as real life.
Look at the speed your turning the corner in GT5 And then do that with a real car in real life (safely ofcourse) see if you can take a similar corner the same. You'll realise its just you think your going slower in the game than you actualy are.
The only unrealistic thing that comes to mind is some cars are not programmed right into GT5.
Have you guys even tried to drive the Veyron in its STOCK form? Now THAT is messed up understeer, and I've seen videos of a real Veyron which did not behave like that.

This!

Also, the Veyron is kind of a pig in real life. :)
 
My experience with the GT5 platform is they don't need to be off. You can certainly rotate the car easy with ABS at 1.

If people treat their brakes like an on off button, I guarantee you no car will handle; that is why most people can only play with soft racing slicks only.

If people think the brake is there for the sole purpose of decreasing speed. You are doing it way wrong. Read up on anything that is written by Mario Andretti. Any joe can pin the throttle to the floor, only winners know how to use the brakes.

No you dont get what Im saying. I know how to trailbrake and drive smoothly. Im a simracer and have been for over 10 years. Im all with you on that people should learn to control the car.

The whole point was that ABS makes that impossible on some cars.

Dont take my word for it. Get any ff car, one that I tried was the Citroen C4 Coupe 2.0 VTS 05. Go to practice, set brakes to front 2 rear 0 to minimise rear lockup. Low settings so to help smooth braking. Drive with ABS on and off. Get to decent speed say over 100km/h turn in and brake lightly to induce oversteer. With ABS off this works but when you set ABS on you cant anymore. Im stressing that this is not true for all cars, but seems to be true for ff cars. ABS prevents locking of tyres. When doing threshold braking ABS does not engage, so it should not make a difference, but it does.

Like I said you can do trailbraking with fr cars with ABS on but not ff. This is not right because front engined cars behave the same under braking regardless what the powertrain, exluding enginebraking. More so ABS should make trailbraking easier...
 
No you dont get what Im saying. I know how to trailbrake and drive smoothly. Im a simracer and have been for over 10 years. Im all with you on that people should learn to control the car.

The whole point was that ABS makes that impossible on some cars.

Dont take my word for it. Get any ff car, one that I tried was the Citroen C4 Coupe 2.0 VTS 05. Go to practice, set brakes to front 2 rear 0 to minimise rear lockup. Low settings so to help smooth braking. Drive with ABS on and off. Get to decent speed say over 100km/h turn in and brake lightly to induce oversteer. With ABS off this works but when you set ABS on you cant anymore. Im stressing that this is not true for all cars, but seems to be true for ff cars. ABS prevents locking of tyres. When doing threshold braking ABS does not engage, so it should not make a difference, but it does.

Like I said you can do trailbraking with fr cars with ABS on but not ff. This is not right because front engined cars behave the same under braking regardless what the powertrain, exluding enginebraking. More so ABS should make trailbraking easier...

This is completely false.
Just because two cars have the engine in the front does not mean that they will behave the same way under braking.

Some FF cars oversteer heavily under threshold braking.
Some FF cars understeer
Some FR cars behave erratically under threshold braking

Example: My Lexus IS F understeers under braking, while my Citroen C4 oversteers heavily under braking.

There are MANY more factors than Car layout that determine its handling.

Also, you can trail brake FF cars with ABS on, just to a lesser degree. I can perform trail braking with ABS on 1, but it isn't easy. I'm thinking about turning ABS off, but I'm reluctant because if i press the pedal halfway, the game registers it as 100%. (Using G27 :( )
 
This is completely false.
Just because two cars have the engine in the front does not mean that they will behave the same way under braking.

Some FF cars oversteer heavily under threshold braking.
Some FF cars understeer
Some FR cars behave erratically under threshold braking

Example: My Lexus IS F understeers under braking, while my Citroen C4 oversteers heavily under braking.

There are MANY more factors than Car layout that determine its handling.

Also, you can trail brake FF cars with ABS on, just to a lesser degree. I can perform trail braking with ABS on 1, but it isn't easy. I'm thinking about turning ABS off, but I'm reluctant because if i press the pedal halfway, the game registers it as 100%. (Using G27 :( )

I know that handling varies from car to car and engine placement is not all. I meant more like if you had the same car and simply changed where the power goes it will still handle the same under braking. Sorry, i didnt choose my words correctly.

The point I am trying to get across is that the SAME car cant oversteer with ABS but CAN without ABS. Im not new to this stuff. I hope that makes my point more clear.

Im not going to use ABS from now on unless I have to. :) Gives more controll and makes driving more fun. Changing brake bias cures most problems.
 
I know that handling varies from car to car and engine placement is not all. I meant more like if you had the same car and simply changed where the power goes it will still handle the same under braking. Sorry, i didnt choose my words correctly.

The point I am trying to get across is that the SAME car cant oversteer with ABS but CAN without ABS. Im not new to this stuff. I hope that makes my point more clear.

Im not going to use ABS from now on unless I have to. :) Gives more controll and makes driving more fun. Changing brake bias cures most problems.

That cleared it up. Same car with different drive wheels should not change the braking behavior seems to be true.

I wish i could go without ABS, but until the pedals on the G27 behave properly, then i have to use ABS.
 
I think the real point is that one shoud first try drive around these apparent shotcomings before throwing radical surgical "fixes" at them.

Truely good drivers can make stock cars go fast ;)

I have spent years on the Corvette forums watching people (myslef included) buy shocks, wheels, tyres, gears etc to make our cars "go right".

Then along comes a factory engineer who just played a part-time test driver for GM (John Heinricy) and not only did he make the stock tyred and stock suspended and stock powered C5 Z06 do apparently impossible things on local US race tracks and for demonstration purposes, he piloted the 2004 Z16 Comm. Edition to a 7:56 Northloop lap, again on all stock setup. As in the car was totally setup within the parameters GM delivered the car to customers.

John Heinricy is just ****ing brilliant :) I like your advice and I think that with certain cars ie. recent models with manufactured or PD's own measured data/perimeters, we can pretty much expect the cars to behave as they would in real life. Of course we also have to accept the limitations of GT5's current physics engine but that's just a matter calibration :)

I still believe that GT5 physics and FFB will be improved over time. Just like it was in GT5P when it first came out- I remember the stock Ford GT was plagued by an enormous exit "lift-off" oversteer which felt very much like it was in GT4. A patch released for Spec II fixed the issue completely (although Ford GT as with most MR car are always prone to exit oversteering). I expect in due times PD will fix the handling of certain cars apart from the general physics upgrade/improvement.

I haven't bought GT5 (today I'll be picking up my PS3 and hopefully by xmas I'll have my copy) but I intend to play the game as I did GT4, almost upgrade-free with stock setup except for race cars and the most realistic tire choice (no Sport or Racing Soft for me).
 
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...weight transfer has nothing to do with rear tires locking.

Wrong. If you have a 1000 kg car with a 60%/40% static weight distribution you have 400 kg of car pressing the rear tyres on the road. Under heavy braking it may go as far as 75%/25% and by that time you have 250 kg of car pressing the rear tyres on the road. And there's very little doubt about 250 kg giving less grip than 400 kg, thus drastically increasing the chance of locking the rears up.

Like I said you can do trailbraking with fr cars with ABS on but not ff. This is not right because front engined cars behave the same under braking regardless what the powertrain, exluding enginebraking. More so ABS should make trailbraking easier...

It's right, just because of the engine braking. The figures are off the top of my head but I'd imagine heavy engine braking can increase absolute braking power by at least 25%, perhaps even more. But using that 25%... let's assume a brake balance of 8/4 gives perfectly stable handling under braking with no engine braking considered. In a FF car engine braking changes the figures to 10/4, in a FR car they'll be 8/5. Assuming that the tyres can only take a braking force of "8" by which time ABS cuts the power in the entire system the FF car is left with a balance of 8/3.2 while the FR car retains the original 8/5. No wonder it trail brakes a lot better.

Just my opinion but still.
 
I thought I was the only one one who felt this. It's more pronounced in awd cars than rwd. The evo and the GTR are known to be incredibly well handling cars in real life, but in GT they are slouches. I can't for the life of me get these two cars to turn in quickly no matter how much I tune.
 
I have yet to play the game, so last night I was curious about something and considered asking about it in this thread. I ultimately decided to just wait until I try it for myself, but these last few posts have brushed really close to my question:

As Greycap pointed out, even with the engine in the same place, drivetrain layout can have a direct and substantial effect on behavior under braking, along with differential type (and tuning). As you enter the braking zone, if you lift throttle at high RPM without putting in the clutch -- depending on the car -- it could become severely unsettled as the engine yanks the speed of the drivewheels down. We all know this as "lift-off oversteer."

The effect is much less pronounced at lower RPM, if it even appears at all. This is why no one encounters it on their typical daily drive. And if you put in the clutch, well obviously you're just going to coast normally.

However, I've noticed that Forza and the previous Gran Turismos never really made any distinction between high RPM behavior and low RPM behavior in this respect. If it was a conscious design decision, I assume it would be to help make the game more accessible, causing high-powered sportscars screaming at the top of the tachometer to behave like the average gamer's Camry as it lazily decelerates around the offramp of a motorway.

I've read accounts by speed-happy automotive enthusiasts who complain about games that model lift-off oversteer, crying that they "don't drive like the real thing," when they're failing to consider that they never punish their real-world "baby" the way they drive in a videogame. How many people zoom around at the top of the rev range, treating the throttle almost like an on-off switch (videogame-style) while casually enjoying a speedy drive on some country roads?

I've had many a discussion with Scaff, who is a professional driver, and as I recall he mentioned that using engine braking as a means to slow the car (rather than simply to keep the transmission in the proper gear and engine in the right RPM range) is a misconception of its purpose and a sign of poor driving. It remains a useful tool to initiate oversteer (as in drifting), or to help rotate the car into the corner, but the point here is that in any decent simulator it should pose a risk to the driver, with suitable punishment (loss of control).

So to contribute to the quandary in this thread...does GT5 model lift-off oversteer correctly? Is there a difference whether you lift at, say, 2000rpm versus 7000rpm? If lift-off oversteer is lacking, it could be causing the understeer issues here (while not affecting the remainder of cornering behavior very much).
 
^yes. I think they replicated that perfectly. If you are in 6th gear cruising at 40mph. The car takes a long time to slow down, but if you are in first gear going 40mph, the car slows down very quickly.
 
Scaff, that 'snow' on that day happened during the early hours and I walked to work to start at 6am. It was pretty much gone by mid-day.

As for the sense of speed, to me it feels much slower than reality and unlike driving a real car, which is just instinctive, GT still seems to require far too much thought process. If I actually felt the car was doing 160 and not what felt like half that when I arrived at a corner, then instinctively I would have braked within reasonable distance.

I know you love to jump on the defensive with regards to myself, but I don't think a genuine request for information from a forum moderator should be met with derision and attempted belittlement.
 
I thought I was the only one one who felt this. It's more pronounced in awd cars than rwd. The evo and the GTR are known to be incredibly well handling cars in real life, but in GT they are slouches. I can't for the life of me get these two cars to turn in quickly no matter how much I tune.

AWD cars do handle exceptionally well but only when they are driven correctly. It takes a different driving technique especially when on the throttle, in real life AWD cars do have significantly more understeer than RWD.
 
AWD cars do handle exceptionally well but only when they are driven correctly. It takes a different driving technique especially when on the throttle, in real life AWD cars do have significantly more understeer than RWD.

I understand that, but I think the understeer is more pronounced in GT5 with AWD cars than it actually is in real life. Theres no reason an Evo should understeer when you're off the throttle and throw it into a corner. The back should actually step out. The complete opposite of this happens in GT5. It seems like every AWD car in GT suffers from it.
 
I've had many a discussion with Scaff, who is a professional driver, and as I recall he mentioned that using engine braking as a means to slow the car (rather than simply to keep the transmission in the proper gear and engine in the right RPM range) is a misconception of its purpose and a sign of poor driving. It remains a useful tool to initiate oversteer (as in drifting), or to help rotate the car into the corner, but the point here is that in any decent simulator it should pose a risk to the driver, with suitable punishment (loss of control).

Wow, not heard from you in a while, good to see you back.

As long as you have all the driver aids (as well as ABS) turned off it can bit you in GT5, use manual gears and while the game will still effectively heal and toe for you, if you shift too early it will 'screw it up' and you get a degree of unwelcome engine braking. Its caught me out on the hard braking area into the first hairpin at Grand Valley.

Its not as pronounced as it can be in the real world, but some of that I put down to the game attempting to heel and toe for you at the same time. Without a full rig with a clutch (which alas I don't currently have) I would not be able to tell you what effect it has with no attempt to rev-match at all.

That aside it's a more than welcome development, even if its not a full simulation of how nasty it can be in the real world.


So to contribute to the quandary in this thread...does GT5 model lift-off oversteer correctly? Is there a difference whether you lift at, say, 2000rpm versus 7000rpm? If lift-off oversteer is lacking, it could be causing the understeer issues here (while not affecting the remainder of cornering behavior very much).

To answer your question (with the caveat that you know I like to spend a lot of time with any game before answering definitively).

No, its doesn't model it 100% correctly, but it does do it better that in the past and certainly the prime accusation leveled in the original post, that its similar to GT4's understeer, is well wide of the mark.

I've given it a go in a Phase 1 Clio V6, for two main reasons, one being its a car known to be prone to lift-off oversteer and two, because its a car I have a lot of experience with (sat on the product launch committee for it and managed the customer launch training). You can certainly get the car to trim the line and step out by backing off the throttle in GT5, but its not the same 'face the wrong way if you get it really wrong' situation that can happen in the real world. However I do have to add that no sim on the market has yet got how nasty the lift-off oversteer on the Phase 1 right. However GT5 is up with the best of the rest and for me certainly gets the 'feel' of the car right. The on-throttle rotation and the heavy understeer if you don't set the car up right for a corner are all correct to the real thing. The nose even 'bobs' a bit at high speed on bumpy tracks, just as it should.

I for one would be extremely interested to know your thoughts on GT5, once you get a chance to spend some time with it.



Scaff, that 'snow' on that day happened during the early hours and I walked to work to start at 6am. It was pretty much gone by mid-day.
Which is still, I'm sure you will acknowledge, different from saying you had no snow.


As for the sense of speed, to me it feels much slower than reality and unlike driving a real car, which is just instinctive, GT still seems to require far too much thought process. If I actually felt the car was doing 160 and not what felt like half that when I arrived at a corner, then instinctively I would have braked within reasonable distance.
The lack of 'feel' will always be an issue with any sim, however I've never myself had a major issue with the supposed 'lack' of speed in the GT series.

Most race tracks are very wide, and as such the sense of speed does disappear in the real world. As an example 150mph+ on the high speed track at MIRA (which has huge run offs) actually feels much slower than doing 60mph down some of the country roads on my daily drive to work.

I actually have a harder time with most games that artificially add in speed blur to the drivers view, that for me is far more fake and harder to judge.


I know you love to jump on the defensive with regards to myself, but I don't think a genuine request for information from a forum moderator should be met with derision and attempted belittlement.
I don't jump on the defensive with you at all and nothing in my posts even comes close to it.

I do however disagree with you on a number of issues and have no problem in saying so. I also find it quite surprising that someone who appears to have a relatively limited degree of experience when it comes to driving on the limit (on or off the track) can make such definitive statements. I've a large degree of experience in this are (its been my working life for well over a decade and my passion for far longer than that) , yet I would certainly not be as definitive as you are being.

Derision and attempted belittlement? No. An uncertainly that you have the real world experience to make such definitive claims? Yes.


Scaff
 
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Wrong. If you have a 1000 kg car with a 60%/40% static weight distribution you have 400 kg of car pressing the rear tyres on the road. Under heavy braking it may go as far as 75%/25% and by that time you have 250 kg of car pressing the rear tyres on the road. And there's very little doubt about 250 kg giving less grip than 400 kg, thus drastically increasing the chance of locking the rears up.



It's right, just because of the engine braking. The figures are off the top of my head but I'd imagine heavy engine braking can increase absolute braking power by at least 25%, perhaps even more. But using that 25%... let's assume a brake balance of 8/4 gives perfectly stable handling under braking with no engine braking considered. In a FF car engine braking changes the figures to 10/4, in a FR car they'll be 8/5. Assuming that the tyres can only take a braking force of "8" by which time ABS cuts the power in the entire system the FF car is left with a balance of 8/3.2 while the FR car retains the original 8/5. No wonder it trail brakes a lot better.

Just my opinion but still.

I understand what you mean, but thats not what Im getting at.

I didnt mean that weight shifting cant cause lockup. I was testing how the car steered on light braking without rear tires locking up. Oversteer by weight shifting and not by means of rear locking up. Weight shifting fundamentally has nothing to do with tires locking up, but it can cause it.

And what comes to the part of ABS, I was testing the situation when ABS had not activated, but it was turned on in the menu. The car handled differently with ABS on and off in the menu, but in neither case did the ABS system actually activate, no lockup, just threshold braking. YET there still was a difference in handling.

Do you understand what Im getting at?
 
All cars in GT5 have by default +0.00 degrees front toe and +0.20 degrees rear toe.
This includes racing cars too. This will cause understeer and general straight line stability, something that sports cars or better, race cars, strive to avoid.
Also, strangely camber is most of the time way off. Most cars in GT5 have zero camber on both front and rear axles. Some racing cars have a small amount of camber, but again that's usually way below what should normally considered normal for these cars.

I believe that PD have set up all cars for stability to appeal to a wider public.
You can check out default suspension alignment values by purchasing in the game any suspension kit. Once you do, you can check the default values of stock suspensions.
Personally I believe it's a serious problem, as this implies that most cars do not handle like they are suppose to do.

How do you know if it's not actually added on by the racing suspension?
 
I understand that, but I think the understeer is more pronounced in GT5 with AWD cars than it actually is in real life. Theres no reason an Evo should understeer when you're off the throttle and throw it into a corner. The back should actually step out. The complete opposite of this happens in GT5. It seems like every AWD car in GT suffers from it.

Hmm - my experience with driving AWD performance cars is that if you are off throttle then they will understeer - and that to maintain an appropriuate rate of rotation you must remain firmly on the throttle - even when all instinct tells you that you are about to put the car into a push/understeer attitude you must still fight the urge to try invoke off-throttle oversteer, as it wont work - you need to be on that throttle and allow the front traction and driving power to work to your advantage.

This is what I have experienced. Maybe I am wrong *shrug*
 
Most of it's in the brakes, try a more realistic setting than 5/5 default. I aim for 6/4 or 7/5ish for MR and RR, and 7/4 to 8/5 for FR, just as general guidelines, it helps knowing the cars exact F?R weight distribution.
Prime example would be a New Mini Cooper, should probably be set between 8/4 to 7/3, something like that, certainly not 5/5.
I've found despite what the game says, adding some real stopping power to the front can (as it should) greatly help rotate the car when braking into corners.
 
The only times I've had problems with understeer are when I've entered a corner too fast or when I've got on the power too early in an FF or AWD car. Neither point to a problem with the game's physics, but with my technique and the characteristics of the cars.

But, and I think this is important, I don't tend to tune my cars much at all. Just a few minor engine mods if I need them, which doesn't significantly affect the handling. But how do other mods affect the balance of the car? How does the weight reduction affect the weight distribution, for example? Once you start doing weight reduction, stiffening and add FC suspension the way the car drives becomes your responsibility, not PD's. If you couldn't tune the balance with FC suspension it might point to a problem with the physics, but you can tune the balance within reason - and it's not always reasonable to assume you can give a car an extra few hundred BHP without compromising the balance.

I really don't think it's safe to assume the default settings for FC suspension match the stock suspension either. Has anyone done a test to see if unmodified FC suspension handles the same as stock suspension?
 
Hmm - my experience with driving AWD performance cars is that if you are off throttle then they will understeer - and that to maintain an appropriuate rate of rotation you must remain firmly on the throttle - even when all instinct tells you that you are about to put the car into a push/understeer attitude you must still fight the urge to try invoke off-throttle oversteer, as it wont work - you need to be on that throttle and allow the front traction and driving power to work to your advantage.

This is what I have experienced. Maybe I am wrong *shrug*

Nope. Pretty much true... depending on the suspension set of the car. Most Subarus understeer unless you give them a "Scandinavian flick" into a corner or trail-brake appropriately... but for real leery sideways action, you'll also need to clutch-kick to get things moving appropriately (on the higher-end STIs with the rearward-biased torque split or the center diff set that way). Otherwise they plow like tractors.

The new STI automatic... I hate... without the attitude adjustability given by having a clutch, it's not quite as exciting to drive as the regular car.

It's funny... the only way to get rotation out of the Lancer Ralliart, since the tires and suspension are pretty pedestrian, is to keep your foot planted to send more power through the rear LSD. Otherwise... plowsville.

I for one would be extremely interested to know your thoughts on GT5, once you get a chance to spend some time with it.

Scaff

As would I. Glad you're back, Wolfe. Responded to a post of yours in passing the other day, but forgot to add that.

And glad to see you've finally gotten a copy of GT5. Can't wait for a "Scaff's Guide" for this game, too. 👍
 
No you dont get what Im saying. I know how to trailbrake and drive smoothly. Im a simracer and have been for over 10 years. Im all with you on that people should learn to control the car.

The whole point was that ABS makes that impossible on some cars.

Dont take my word for it. Get any ff car, one that I tried was the Citroen C4 Coupe 2.0 VTS 05. Go to practice, set brakes to front 2 rear 0 to minimise rear lockup. Low settings so to help smooth braking. Drive with ABS on and off. Get to decent speed say over 100km/h turn in and brake lightly to induce oversteer. With ABS off this works but when you set ABS on you cant anymore. Im stressing that this is not true for all cars, but seems to be true for ff cars. ABS prevents locking of tyres. When doing threshold braking ABS does not engage, so it should not make a difference, but it does.

Like I said you can do trailbraking with fr cars with ABS on but not ff. This is not right because front engined cars behave the same under braking regardless what the powertrain, exluding enginebraking. More so ABS should make trailbraking easier...

Dude, I not trying to disagree (or agree) with you. The first two words on my post is "my experience", I am merely sharing my observation.

IRL you can trail brake any car in any engine layout in any drive, ABS or no ABS. The only difference is how well each car reacts to trail braking and how well they rotates.
 
Kind of disappointed no one's done a g27 --> DFGT comparo yet to back up my findings.

Oh well...
 
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