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Thanks for sharing & checking this "beast" out. It's nice when someone else is on the same page (or close to it)! I found the same results with level 4 and I use level 3 mostly. My "A" setting is with level 3 & my "B" setting is level 4. I also found a huge difference with camber. I tried levels 3 down to 0. The original default is in the 3 range, so I thought there might be something to it? As it turns out the lower I went, the better it got. I also have the entry & exit set on -3 each. But, I have LSD set on 1. I'm going to try level 3 on LSD & see how that is.

I also get a .69 on rear toe using your settings? no big deal....?

Thanks again!
 
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Do you think you can recommend which stiffness level to use for different tire class? This is the only thing I am not to sure about.

When I get the settings into ball park figures that feel comfortable to me, I break the numbers down into 1/10's to do some fine tuning. Not sure if that was mentioned here before. So like, if I have a corner entry of 1 but it's not strong enough I would go to 2. But 2 would be too much so I would plug in 1.5 and then keep fine tuning from there.

I also use MCH's method of tuning the LSD. Most of the time initial and decel are close enough, but the accel is usually a little on the high side for me. If I do make changes to any of the three settings, its usually to bring them down. This is also after I had brought down the LSD level in the program.

I am having fun with this so far. Normally I would have cars in my garage that would just sit and collect dust. I didnt think it was worth the time to invest in tuning them. Quicktune has given them a second chance. 👍
 
psball
Thanks for sharing & checking this "beast" out. It's nice when someone else is on the same page (or close to it)! I found the same results with level 4 and I use level 3 mostly. My "A" setting is with level 3 & my "B" setting is level 4. I also found a huge difference with camber. I tried levels 3 down to 0. The original default is in the 3 range, so I thought there might be something to it? As it turns out the lower I went, the better it got. I also have the entry & exit set on -3 each. But, I have LSD set on 1. I'm going to try level 3 on LSD & see how that is.

I also get a .69 on rear toe using your settings? no big deal....?

Thanks again!
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Cool beans. Not sure about the toe discrepancy. Are you using more power and/or weight reduction? The rear toe on RWD cars is partially based on power to weight ratio.
 
FlyinHawaiian77
Do you think you can recommend which stiffness level to use for different tire class? This is the only thing I am not to sure about.
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It's a little more complicated than that, since you really have to look at the whole vehicle package. Generally speaking, though, I would say levels 0 to 1 for dirt and snow tires, between 2 and 4 for road tires, and between 3 and 5 for slicks.

When I get the settings into ball park figures that feel comfortable to me, I break the numbers down into 1/10's to do some fine tuning. Not sure if that was mentioned here before. So like, if I have a corner entry of 1 but it's not strong enough I would go to 2. But 2 would be too much so I would plug in 1.5 and then keep fine tuning from there.
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I haven't mentioned it, but yes, you can use decimals for the handling adjustment fields. I just didn't think very many people would have the patience for that level of detail. Lol.

I also use MCH's method of tuning the LSD. Most of the time initial and decel are close enough, but the accel is usually a little on the high side for me. If I do make changes to any of the three settings, its usually to bring them down. This is also after I had brought down the LSD level in the program.
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Are you using 4.0 or 4.1? I revised the rear LSD settings downward on 4.1. I really like Hami's guide, but I do disagree with him just a little bit regarding the LSD. I feel the initial should always be lower than either the accel or decel settings, and the decel should be somewhere between the initial and accel setting. It just jibes better with my understanding of how real life clutch type LSDs function.

I am having fun with this so far. Normally I would have cars in my garage that would just sit and collect dust. I didnt think it was worth the time to invest in tuning them. Quicktune has given them a second chance. 👍
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Glad to hear it. :cheers:


Oh, and since nobody has seriously objected, I've now posted v4.1 to the main page. Thanks for your support, guys!
 
oppositelock
Are you using more power and/or weight reduction? The rear toe on RWD cars is partially based on power to weight ratio.
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Yes, actually I'm using full power & full weight reduction! That's probably it? I thought that it might have been a type-o?
 
I tried out the Autobacs Garaiya GT300 Base Model '08. Outstanding!

Stock with oil change.
Suspension Level 3.
Corner Balance 0 for both.
LSD Strength 2.

It is a very, very free car. Perhaps too much oversteer, but it if were more controlled it would be too easy. It's a great car in its stock form, but this tune brings it to life. I'll be coming back to this more and more. +1
 
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Nissan GT-R Black Edition '12 - 94,710

Oil Change - 250
Tires: Sports Soft - 9,750
Height-Adjustable, Fully Customizable Suspension - 19,000
Racing Brakes - 8,500
Fully Customizable Dog-Clutch Transmission - 19,500
Twin-Plate Clutch Kit - 3,350
Carbon Drive Shaft - 4,400
Fully Customizable Mechanical Limited Slip Differential - 7,350
Torque-Distributing Center Differential - 15,000
Engine: Stage 1 - 4,750
Sports Computer - 2,000
Intake Tuning - 4,800
Semi-Racing Exhaust - 7,500
Isometric Exhaust Manifold - 3,350
Catalytic Converter: Sports - 1,750
Low RPM Range Turbo Kit - 7,400
Weight Reduction: Stage 1 - 4,800

Total Investment - 218,160


PP: 624
823 HP @ 6700 RPM
720 LB-FT @ 4200 RPM
1,539 KG
1.86 KG/HP
Weight Distribution: 52/48


Quick Tune Settings (v4.1):

Suspension Level: 3
Corner Entry Balance: 0
Corner Exit Balance: 0
Base Camber Angle: 0.0
LSD Strength: 2
Spread: 100.0%
Scale: 100.0%


Ride Height: 81 / 81
Spring Rate: 18.70 / 9.43
Dampers (Compression): 7 / 7
Dampers (Extension): 7 / 7
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 / 4
Camber Angle: 0.0 / 0.0
Toe Angle: -0.06 / 0.04
Brake Balance: 5 / 5


Transmission Instructions:

Set Final Gear to 3.984
Set Max Speed to 199 MPH (320 KPH)

1st Gear: 3.367
2nd Gear: 2.264
3rd Gear: 1.667
4th Gear: 1.275
5th Gear: 1.000
6th Gear: 0.802
Final Gear: 3.180


Initial Torque: 6 / 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 18 / 24
Braking Sensitivity: 8 / 12


Front/Rear Torque Split: 30 / 70


ABS 1, all other aids off.


It's hard to call any 800+ horsepower vehicle "idiot proof", but this is about as close as you can get. If this car has a flaw, it's that it almost turns in too eagerly, like a heat seeking missile locked onto the apex. Once you've successfully chucked it into the corner, just go wide open throttle and let all four tires claw for the exit. It's practically cheating.
 
the more I use 4.1, the more I like it! I'm going back through my previous tunes & updating them & finding some nice improvements!

I re-did the Gran Turismo Ford GT LM II Test Car & got it too behave much better using 4.1. I also bought & tuned the Maserati Gran Turismo S '08 & Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG '10. They tuned up very easily (first try) & ran really nice!

IMO, there is a difference with the physics in GT6 compared to GT5. IMO, the cars are a lot harder to tune/tame in GT6. On the other hand, I didn't care for the Maserati in GT5, but it is much better now in GT6.
 
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I use a numbering system for labeling the A, B, & C tune settings; i.e., 30002, 21012, 40012, etc. for the -1-3 levels on entrance & exit balance, I use positive number on my labels; i.e., -1=9, -2=8 & -3=7. So for example; a tune setting with a level 3 suspension, -1 entrance balance, 0 exit balance, level 1.0 camber, & level 2 LSD, would be labeled as; 39012. I also do the same with the tab labels on the spreadsheet and can also have more than one tab with different settings. I guess I'm kind of a nerd geek huh?
 
I'll be coming back to this more and more. +1
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the more I use 4.1, the more I like it! I'm going back through my previous tunes & updating them & finding some nice improvements!
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Good to hear, guys.

That's an interesting way of keeping tunes organized, I hadn't thought of anything like that. Thanks for the tip!
 
Yeah, I don't know if PD changed the physics on the last update or if 4.1 is just making all the difference? But all of a sudden my tunes are turning out great!
 
oppositelock
Good to hear, guys.

That's an interesting way of keeping tunes organized, I hadn't thought of anything like that. Thanks for the tip!
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oppositelock
Good to hear, guys.

That's an interesting way of keeping tunes organized, I hadn't thought of anything like that. Thanks for the tip!
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oppositelock
12300700676_3a3ca58d51_c.jpg
​

Nissan GT-R Black Edition '12 - 94,710

Oil Change - 250
Tires: Sports Soft - 9,750
Height-Adjustable, Fully Customizable Suspension - 19,000
Racing Brakes - 8,500
Fully Customizable Dog-Clutch Transmission - 19,500
Twin-Plate Clutch Kit - 3,350
Carbon Drive Shaft - 4,400
Fully Customizable Mechanical Limited Slip Differential - 7,350
Torque-Distributing Center Differential - 15,000
Engine: Stage 1 - 4,750
Sports Computer - 2,000
Intake Tuning - 4,800
Semi-Racing Exhaust - 7,500
Isometric Exhaust Manifold - 3,350
Catalytic Converter: Sports - 1,750
Low RPM Range Turbo Kit - 7,400
Weight Reduction: Stage 1 - 4,800

Total Investment - 218,160


PP: 624
823 HP @ 6700 RPM
720 LB-FT @ 4200 RPM
1,539 KG
1.86 KG/HP
Weight Distribution: 52/48


Quick Tune Settings (v4.1):

Suspension Level: 3
Corner Entry Balance: 0
Corner Exit Balance: 0
Base Camber Angle: 0.0
LSD Strength: 2
Spread: 100.0%
Scale: 100.0%


Ride Height: 81 / 81
Spring Rate: 18.70 / 9.43
Dampers (Compression): 7 / 7
Dampers (Extension): 7 / 7
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 / 4
Camber Angle: 0.0 / 0.0
Toe Angle: -0.06 / 0.04
Brake Balance: 5 / 5


Transmission Instructions:

Set Final Gear to 3.984
Set Max Speed to 199 MPH (320 KPH)

1st Gear: 3.367
2nd Gear: 2.264
3rd Gear: 1.667
4th Gear: 1.275
5th Gear: 1.000
6th Gear: 0.802
Final Gear: 3.180


Initial Torque: 6 / 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 18 / 24
Braking Sensitivity: 8 / 12


Front/Rear Torque Split: 30 / 70


ABS 1, all other aids off.


It's hard to call any 800+ horsepower vehicle "idiot proof", but this is about as close as you can get. If this car has a flaw, it's that it almost turns in too eagerly, like a heat seeking missile locked onto the apex. Once you've successfully chucked it into the corner, just go wide open throttle and let all four tires claw for the exit. It's practically cheating.
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Been meaning to thank for a very long time, from your first Quick Tune in GT5. I'm not so much a racer on line.. my pleasure is testing and tuning. 4.1 is working much better since PD up dates. I'm not one to do posts on line and I wish I had a way to send you some spreadsheets of tests between your tunes and some of my tunes for comparisons. Majority of my friends list that I helped them with some of their tunes using Quick Tune have been very happy.

Again thank you
 
suprams1
Been meaning to thank for a very long time, from your first Quick Tune in GT5. I'm not so much a racer on line.. my pleasure is testing and tuning. 4.1 is working much better since PD up dates. I'm not one to do posts on line and I wish I had a way to send you some spreadsheets of tests between your tunes and some of my tunes for comparisons. Majority of my friends list that I helped them with some of their tunes using Quick Tune have been very happy.

Again thank you
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You're welcome. I'd be very interested in seeing some of these test results. Check your private messages.
 
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Chevrolet Corvette Z06 (C6) LM Race Car '06 - 264,500

Oil Change - 250
Improve Body Rigidity - 27,500 (Est.)
Tires: Racing Hard - 0
Carbon Drive Shaft - 4,600
Fully Customizable Mechanical Limited Slip Differential - 7,650
Engine: Stage 3 - 52,500

Total Investment - 357,000


PP: 642
805 HP @ 7200 RPM
640 LB-FT @ 6100 RPM
1,090 KG
1.35 KG/HP
Weight Distribution: 51/49


Quick Tune Settings (v4.1):

Suspension Level: 4
Corner Entry Balance: 0
Corner Exit Balance: 0
Base Camber Angle: 0.0
LSD Strength: 2
Spread: 100.0%
Scale: 100.0%


Ride Height: 69 / 69
Spring Rate: 18.09 / 18.46
Dampers (Compression): 8 / 8
Dampers (Extension): 8 / 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 5 / 5
Camber Angle: 0.0 / 0.0
Toe Angle: -0.05 / 0.40
Brake Balance: 5 / 5


Transmission Instructions:

Set Final Gear to 4.911
Set Max Speed to 168 MPH (270 KPH)

1st Gear: 3.122
2nd Gear: 2.134
3rd Gear: 1.598
4th Gear: 1.247
5th Gear: 1.000
6th Gear: 0.822
Final Gear: 4.070


Initial Torque: - / 11
Acceleration Sensitivity: - / 24
Braking Sensitivity: - / 13


Downforce: 350 / 600


ABS 1, all other aids off.


This is probably the most heavily used race car in my garage. Not only does it make mincemeat out of 650 PP events, with some clever driving it will go head-to-head with the LMP cars in most 750 PP events including the GT World Championship. Very forgiving at the limit for a car with this level of performance.
 
I've been finding that the 40002 settings is working great. I've also been playing with the camber (either increasing or decreasing) before adjusting the balances beyond 0.
 
Again I'll say this is an excellent tool.
I've used it for several cars and each one drives and adjusts perfectly. The only car I've had trouble dialing in is the AEM S2000, but I didn't spend a great deal of time on it.

But others like the Chevy Camaro RM '10 and the Ford GT LM Spec 2 Test Car are perfect. I plan on using this as a base for every tune in my garage. It is also teaching me tuning techniques. Can't say enough good things about it, really. 👍
 
I've noticed a big improvement since the last version also. On par with my own tunes. Some are faster some are slower. So I'll start to use this as a base and go from there. Glad to see your posting your tunes. Gives me confidence that I am using the tool right. :lol:
 
psball
Are you wanting to tune it for drifting or just regular racing, etc.?
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I bought it to tune for the 550pp International A World Touring Car Championship. It slots in there nicely as a lower end race car. I think I simply nerfed the Camber on it while tinkering to see if the Camber is actually flawed, got fed up with the the instability and moved on. It's more me than the quick tune.
 
crowhop
I bought it to tune for the 550pp International A World Touring Car Championship. It slots in there nicely as a lower end race car. I think I simply nerfed the Camber on it while tinkering to see if the Camber is actually flawed, got fed up with the the instability and moved on. It's more me than the quick tune.
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The reason I asked is that I don't know much about drifting or tuning for drifting. But, you caught my attention when you mentioned the AEM S2000 as it was one of my favorites in GT5. I don't care for it as much in GT6; not sure why?

Anyway, I set it up with the 40002 setting with Racing Hard Tires. You could do a 30003 setting for Sport Hard Tires if the 40002 setting is too aggressive? And no Camber. I only use camber for oversteer. These settings will give a little oversteer (which suits my driving style). I hope this helps? I think that I used the Mugen S2000 for the 550pp International A World Touring Car Championship? I actually liked it better than the AEM S2000.
 
FlyinHawaiian77
From what I've read so far about camber, if you need to loose grip at that end of the car is when you want to add it. Very helpful for FF cars.
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Thanks for sharing that insight. So far I've found that camber is helpful with a lot of oversteer. And if I have a car with understeer, I reduce the camber (if there is any) until I get it to where I need it. Sometimes increasing the LSD settings if camber is already 0. I could be way off, but that is my observation so far.
 
psball
Thanks for sharing that insight. So far I've found that camber is helpful with a lot of oversteer. And if I have a car with understeer, I reduce the camber (if there is any) until I get it to where I need it. Sometimes increasing the LSD settings if camber is already 0. I could be way off, but that is my observation so far.
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Not to derail the thread with a Camber discussion, but have you driven the Toyota GT86 Racing car? The Camber on its Suspension cannot be adjusted and it is locked at 0. It needs Camber in a bad way. It simply plows through medium speed turns (the tunnels at Grand Valley specifically) no matter what I've thrown at it.
I'm still not convinced 0 Camber is the answer. I am pretty sure any Camber over 1.0 is a waste though. I've had varying degrees of success with RH tires with Camber between .3 and .7, depending on the car and track.
 
So are you saying that the GT86 has an understeer or oversteer problem? If oversteer, & you can't adjust the camber, you're stuck. only adjusting the f&r springs would help that; or the balance settings. If understeer, you don't want any camber. try increasing the LSD Strength or again the balance settings.
 
FlyinHawaiian77
From what I've read so far about camber, if you need to loose grip at that end of the car is when you want to add it. Very helpful for FF cars.
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I'm going to digress a little bit into personal tuning philosophy, but this would not be my preferred technique for balancing a car. When you adjust balance with roll stiffness, such as with springs or swaybars for example, you effectively transfer some of the cornering work load from one axle to the other. The overall grip capability of the car is the same, it's just distributed differently front and rear. Now let's look at another tuning technique I've seen on GTP, which is what some people call "staggering", or using different tire types front and rear. Someone will be using sports softs all around on a Yellowbird or something similar, and instead of tweaking the suspension, they'll throw sport hards on the front and say they "fixed it". Well, sure, the car is now easier to drive, but you haven't increased rear grip, only hobbled the front. The total grip capability of the vehicle is now lower. The technique of adding camber to an axle to reduce grip is basically the same thing in my mind, and I would only recommend using it as a last-ditch method after all other options have failed. The same thing goes for ballast, except when used to meet PP or weight restrictions.
 

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