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Can I get help with my buildsWhy? There are very good pad drivers and bad wheel drivers.
Can I get help with my buildsWhy? There are very good pad drivers and bad wheel drivers.
I'm jealous of all you guys being able to switch cars, seems like I'm a one trick ponySwitching from the NSX to the Lexus and within 2 laps I've dropped 7 tenths off my quali.
It's a shame really, because I was really gelling with the Honda, but the time I was required to make up in the corners wasn't worth the hassle for always getting dragged into defending once the straights arrive. I know there's pace in the NSX, but I've been experiencing the dreaded "non-meta destruction" from anyone who doesn't understand performance differences. This race is too long for me to risk getting sent to the realm and all the consequences that come with it.
Top combo!
haha offfhhh VR with a hangover would send me over the edge I think, my short stint with VR through the corkscrew at Laguna Seca when I was feeling 100% nearly brought my dinner up!!!I think my biggest problem was I was nursing a major hangover from the weekend, my birthday is tomorrow but ironically because I drive for a living i might actually be a bit more on the ball tomorrow 🤣🤣 M4 is actually good Craig, I'm slow but it is fun 😁
Nic mate, well done.After a few laps got my QT down to 53.8, Guru and I were both kinda right, that was good enough for anywhere from p1 to top5 in B rooms.
Bit of a torrid night, I have one dum crash every racez best finish was p2 but should have done better. I am very slow in that fiddly section before the bridge, lost 4 tenths or ao through there every lapnagainst a guy I was racing pretty close.
It surely is a good car Mate which is why it's the meta. I found the car more nervous with my style of driving + I se a controller. The Nismo also gets nervous but I find the Nismo having a bit more downforce which gives me confidence around some tricky turns. The NSX is the best in terms of downforce but it lacks acceleration (not top end).You think the Lexus is more slippery than the Nissan? I dunno man, feels a little more planted to me.
@Stringerbell I agree there's less need for coasting, which works for me as it was a dark art mastering how much you needed to coast in the past. It's only week 1, but previously when i did a data overlay i'd see the top guys smoother than me, but for this event, they are braking later AND on the gas earlier than me so being very aggressive rather than focusing on mid corner speed.
THIS! I am as fast as anyone on track on mediums, often the fastest in B rooms, but the hards, goodness, just get swallowed up.In race C I can’t get my head round regarding the difference between the 2 tyre compounds. The difference is like night and day 😳
It’s amazing the difference and I think 🤔 the difference is exaggerated by the Lexus. When I started the daily race C I don’t recall the difference being as big with the Nismo.THIS! I am as fast as anyone on track on mediums, often the fastest in B rooms, but the hards, goodness, just get swallowed up.
It's difficult to say what the cause is at the moment, I'd have to analyse my own driving from someone elses perspective on their replay to see if it's network related, physics related or controller related. One thing is though the second you lift in Gr.3 the car just turns in like you've gained a ton of grip.Hmmmmmmmm. A LOT of cars "crabbing" in the Group3 race, do you know if they were controller users? By crabbing i mean the car sort of wobbling left to right, like it loses front grip then gains it on the rear then the opposite happens really quickly. I usually see this on modded road cars without a sticky enough tyre.
I wonder if this ties in with the comments that you can over turn the wheel and the car now turns rather than understeers off, as in is this being seen because the drivers are entering too fast but just keep turning now? It's definately there in your video, really clear on the cars you are close behind, distinct "crabbing".
You can look in the GT7 Tuning sub-forum for tips. Alternatively, try using the search bar and typing in the car you're looking to find a build for.Can I get help with my builds
Two stop strategy appears to work well in Race C - I've seen people dumping the hards after one lap, and then two lots of mediums, today the guy on pole did two lots of mediums then hards for the last lap for the win.
It would be best to start on RH & then have 2 stints on RM. Practical to switch from slower tyre to faster tyre for rhythm instead of vice versa.Yeah was wondering if that was worth a shot. There's like 2 seconds a lap difference for me on that hard tyre if I am not totally dialed in. The math is tight.
Yes - the guy that did it today had a QT 4 seconds faster than mine, and ran quick laps during the race to win by 5 seconds!To make it work, one has to be consistently fast during all the 12 laps
I think they didn't change it, I mean "custom" and "weak" (wich is absurdly the most powerful) are by design not affected from dirty air. "Real" should be the one where the dirty air comes in to play. I believe that, if there's any difference, it might be seen in the manufacturer's events.I haven't seen much discussion regarding the dirty air situation since the latest update.
Given that Group 2 is notoriously badly affected by air turbulence, I was wondering what people's opinions are now that we have a Super GT race on the dailies.
I haven't had too much experience in high downforce cars recently, so I'm not in a position to make a decent assessment myself.
What's everyone's experiences?
You can look in the GT7 Tuning sub-forum for tips. Alternatively, try using the search bar and typing in the car you're looking to find a build for.
This is the Online Daily Race thread, and as tuning races in GT7 are few and far between, may not be the optimal place to be looking.
True Mate. Calster 25 who is DR S rated said that even though a 2 stop strat can work, it's not the ideal one.Yeah looking at the maths I don't think it makes sense. Let's say you are 2 seconds a lap faster to be generous and normally run a 5 Lap hard, 7 lap soft strategy.
That's a best case of 12 seconds and I feel a stop is longer than that.
- 4 laps x 2 seconds = 8 seconds saved by running the second set of M and not having to run the hard
- 3 laps x 1 second or so = 4 to 5 seconds saved by not having so much wear on your M tyres
You opt for such a stat always or when starting from top 3 only? I always start with the harder compound as transition from hard to soft feels progressive rather than other way around.No I run the opposite, 7M and 5H. The hard is brutal, just cannot lay on the gas, lose so much time on exit.
I have been sorely tempted, also by the FINA McLaren F1. But I was badly burned on an older car when mistakenly racing the Xanavi which is completely neutered by the BOP. Maybe those two legends escaped this fate?It's a travesty none of us would use the CLK '98 at all. A legend in the past GT versions now just a shadow of its former self....
Top 3 is a RM start for sure, top 5, depends on the QT times around me. You need to start on RM if near the front, there's way, way too much poor driving from lower on the grid, absolutely zero patience and almost always nerfed off by someone on mediums if I start RH too high.You opt for such a stat always or when starting from top 3 only? I always start with the harder compound as transition from hard to soft feels progressive rather than other way around.
Loving St. Croix. I's a lovely flowing track.