GT7: how to fix RWD oversteer / spinning: the EASY plug & play way..

[Nicktrix]

After reading alot of tuning guides i come to this conclusion:

Do you have a RWD car and is it oversteering / spinning very quick when only touching the gas?

HERE are plug & play SETTINGS:

Car:
(look at the weight balance of your car. It needs to be heavier at the rear. Adding 200kg to the rear actually makes high tuned rwd cars accelerating faster.. yes.. same for rear downforce..)

• Add 200kg ballast full to the REAR.
• Push REAR downforce to the max.

LSD:
Initial: 10
Acc: 20
Brake: xx

Suspension:
(not so important you can keep default settings if you like with the race suspension.. For even more grip you can use the following EASY to use plug & play settings for RWD cars with RACE tyres)
Height: default
Anti-rollbar: 8 / 4
Compression: 30 / 30
Expansion: 45 / 40
Frequentie: 3.2 / 2.8 (close to this)
Camber: 2.5 / 3.0
Toe: default

Gearbox:
- Increase 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear length with the custom settings. The aim is to adjust them just long enouch so there is NO wheelspin.. 4th gear and higher usually doesn't have weelspin.
(first change the topspeed settings to where your topspeed should be. Then go to the custom settings and increase the 1st gear length (max). Then increase 2nd gear lenght (not max). Then increase 3rd gear lenght (not max). Then i match the 4th, 5th, ect gears and i DON'T touch the LAST gear this way. TRY to match the gears evenly with each other, but make sure you increase the lenght of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear just enouch so there is no wheelspin)

With these simple PLUG & PLAY settings you reduce oversteer by alot. These ain't ultimate professional settings, but they make rwd cars alot more fun for us noobs
(yes, also the cars with a SuperCharger)



Ofcourse you can play around a little with these settings, but small changes won't make a big difference IMO.


Let me know what you think about these settings! (and maybe what settings can be improved?)

Nicktrix

 

[AlexWilmot]

Gearbox:
- Increase 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear length with the custom settings.
(first change the topspeed settings to where your topspeed should be. Then go to the custom settings and increase the 1st gear length (max). Then increase 2nd gear lenght (not max). Then increase 3rd gear lenght (not max). Then i match the 4th, 5th, ect gears and i DON'T touch the LAST gear this way. TRY to match the gears evenly with each other, but make sure you increase the lenght of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear)

I guess for getting a better gearing fast then yes sure, but I'd say rather spend more time on getting the first gear and final gear low enough to not have wheelspin and still not bog down on launch.

Let me know what you think about these settings! (and maybe what settings can be improved?)

This is nice to get people to do quick setups, but the compression on the rear is too high.
"If you are struggling for traction on the exit of a corner, you may need to reduce your rear slow bump setting. This is because the initial compression under the longitudinal load of acceleration may be too harsh causing oscillations and therefore the tyres skate across the surface of the track."

How to fix oversteer and understeer in ACC - Coach Dave Academy

In this ACC Setup Guide we help you solve problems when you have oversteer or understeer during cornering.

coachdaveacademy.com

Yes I know that's ACC but the principles still apply to GT7.

Lastly I'll add that the initial differential setting can be basic to have it where lower number = more oversteer, higher number = more understeer.

I hope theres a quick info graphic you could make to help others because this is a good idea

 

[Nicktrix]

I hope theres a quick info graphic you could make to help others because this is a good idea

Do you mean ingame pictures of the settings?

This is nice to get people to do quick setups, but the compression on the rear is too high.
"If you are struggling for traction on the exit of a corner, you may need to reduce your rear slow bump setting. This is because the initial compression under the longitudinal load of acceleration may be too harsh causing oscillations and therefore the tyres skate across the surface of the track."

Thanks, i'll do some tests. Though i don't think it will make a huge difference for us noobs but maybe i'm wrong about this..

I guess for getting a better gearing fast then yes sure, but I'd say rather spend more time on getting the first gear and final gear low enough to not have wheelspin and still not bog down on launch.

You are totally right about this. The aim is to have no wheelspin. I'll add this line to my post.

 

[AlexWilmot]

Do you mean ingame pictures of the settings?

I mean something like this but simplified

Spoiler: Infographic

Thanks, i'll do some tests. Though i don't think it will make a huge difference for us noobs but maybe i'm wrong about this..

It can be dependant on the car and it's drivetrain, but pretty much all of my FR tunes have Rear Compression Damping set lower than the front, but my 4WD, FF and RR tunes have Rear Compression set slightly more than the front

You are totally right about this. The aim is to have no wheelspin. I'll add this line to my post.

I'm happy to help out when I can if you want to send me a DM

 

[Nicktrix]

I mean something like this but simplified

Nah that's to much work 😄 (sorry)

These are simple to use plug & play settings for people who don't know what their doing (used to be me 😅) and still wanna have fun with rwd cars. I don't wanna make it too complicated. There are alot of threads already on the internet about the details..

 

[Nicktrix]

I'm happy to help out when I can if you want to send me a DM

The world would be a better place if we were all like you!

Same thing i made this post. I was struggling to control some high powered rwd cars. Almost gave up. I onestly was about to put TC on 3 & ASM on..

So i hope this thread will help some less professional players 😅

"Gamers just wanna have funnn"

 

[Nicktrix]

It can be dependant on the car and it's drivetrain, but pretty much all of my FR tunes have Rear Compression Damping set lower than the front, but my 4WD, FF and RR tunes have Rear Compression set slightly more than the front

I can't test it when i'm talking with you huh? 😉

But the rear compression shouldn't be to low if i'm right.. When the car accelerates, the rear compression makes the car shift weight to the back. Which leads to rwd grip.. The rear compression works together with the front expension if i'm not mistaken.

Correct me if i'm wrong..

 

[AlexWilmot]

I can't test it when i'm talking with you huh? 😉

But the rear compression shouldn't be to low if i'm right.. When the car accelerates, the rear compression makes the car shift weight to the back. Which leads to rwd grip.. The rear compression works together with the front expension if i'm not mistaken.

Correct me if i'm wrong..

You've got it the wrong way round, Lower rear compression means it absorbs the weight transfer more slowly, so the car takes longer to react to the force change.
Expansion can work together with Compression as well as the Natural Frequency(Spring Rates) so it is a far bit of going out and testing on track as to which adjustments need to be made.

A higher value rear compression means the suspension stroke is shorter so the rear of the car will feel more reactive under power and give more oversteer generally.

 

[Nicktrix]

You've got it the wrong way round, Lower rear compression means it absorbs the weight transfer more slowly, so the car takes longer to react to the force change.

I thought you can use the frequentie for this.. this is something i need to understand more..

 

[AlexWilmot]

Wheel spin in a RWD car needs the gear settings to be correct and a softer rear so it absorbs the forces more for a safer feel of the car

 

[Nicktrix]

a softer rear so it absorbs the forces more for a safer feel of the car

I have my frequentie at the rear slightly softer indeed.

I'm now going to test the rear compression like you said. So less rear compression. I also searched about the rear compression in my gathered information and i read that u don't want to have too stiff compression because of the bumps at the track which you can't absorb with to stiff damping. That's why i didn't set this value to low at first.

Let me do a couple laps with a stiffer rear compression and i'll update you about it 😁

 

[Nicktrix]

A higher value rear compression means the suspension stroke is shorter so the rear of the car will feel more reactive under power and give more oversteer generally.

I didn't feel u huge difference between 25% rear compression and 35% rear compression. I tested this with the subaru brz sti '18 with the corvette engine swap.

So i choose the middle value of 30% for the rear. I edited the value in the main post. I also edited the frequentie in the main post to a little less rear frequentie.

As i already said. Small changes won't make a big difference. Small changes are for detailed tuning. People can use the settings at the top post as an allround setup. Detail tuners don't need this thread 😁

But thanks for the placing the dot on the i..

 

[shadow0460]

It's sound advice but comes at the cost of using more fuel. I would handle it with TCS myself.

 

[ishlabandz]

It may just be me, but I feel the best way to deal with oversteer is through careful modulation of the throttle. Oversteer/rotation is a great tool in the right hands, it’s all about the driver’s inputs. Rather than try to kill it through chassis and suspension tuning, I say try to get used to it so that you get to the level where it is advantageous. Ultimately it will make you a more capable driver.

Putting max ballast is handicapping the car weight-wise, and having the front suspension very stiff relative to the rear makes most cars understeery and negatively affects max cornering speeds - tbh it’s a band-aid and leaves a lot of performance on the table.

I know this may not be conducive to the subject of this thread, but just wanted to give some food for thought.

 

[Meythia]

but just wanted to give some food for thought.

Every related info might be helpful, and there are as many opinions as there are people.
I would say: relying on the least amount of drivers input is better, as it lessens the margin of error, but at the same time the car shouldnt be handicapped with either weight or LSD (or TCS for the game), by that either aero or suspension (to me) seem to be the better options.
But in the end, what counts is the clocks, and as long as one finds a way to tune the car to personal abilities and habits, its all fine, that wouldnt be different to any real driver asking his team to make certian changes so he can drive with more ease and control.

 

[wheelhp]

thanks for this thread OP, this will make life much MUCH easier !