GTP WTAC --- WTACers Tuning Advices and Driving Tips ---

easyasashii

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GTP WTAC --- WTACers Tuning Advices and Driving Tips ---​

Hi !

As most of us have some tuning issues, I thought it would be great to have a thread that shows what was said here on WTAC about tuning and other driving tips so that we can refresh our memory or learn about who said what ! I sure must have missed some great posts so please do accept my apologies and add the missing ones ;) !

This thread is also open to all the tuning advices you could give : the websites you found interesting, the tuning you used and loved, some guidlines to follow, etc. !

I hope this is and will be helpful !

A special THANK YOU goes to Sir Lion-Face :bowdown: (after reading this, you'll know why we call him Sir Lion-Face !!!) !

L-F Tuning ! (GTP WTAC Week 02 : Sweet Apricot..., Apricot Hill Raceway - Reverse, Audi A4 Touring Car '04 and Opel Astra Touring Car (Opel Team Phoenix) '00 / Vauxhall Astra Super Touring Car '00)

I got the 'sweet' backwards, but didn't guess the track for the life of me! :D

Anywho, I thought I would post 'my progress' to help out other TACers and give players a target to aim for and help improve their own times and driving style.

Before you read on. I don't believe I'm the best, I'm not the best at setting up a car and I'm always learning. I believe you get better by practice and through experience. This is just a guide to give those interested some direction and help, a look at things from a different perspective, take from it what you will but don't take it as the be all and end all of how to drive/setup your car.

So, below attached is my current ghost lap, in the Audi, with a time of 1:22.114. You can load this onto your PSP and load it up in Time Trial mode to race against.

My setup I used for this lap so far is...

No aids.

Front/Rear

Aero - 32/56
Ride Height - 0/0
Spring Rate - 6/4
Damper - 4/4
Toe - -0.05/-0.05
Camber Angle - 1.0/0.5

My setup thought process.

I always set Toe to 0/0 and Camber to 0/0. If possible, MAX/MAX on Aero and Half the numbers on Spring Rate and Damper. Ride Height set at 0/0. This is my default settings that I will start to put laps down on to make a serious attempt at a time.

I don't believe in changing them till at least 50laps in. 50Laps you should have a good feeling for the car and the track and know the basic ins and outs of each. From there I can start to tweak the car one setting at a time. In this case so far, I recognized my base setup wasn't quite quick enough at changing direction which this track calls for. So I tweaked the Toe a little to provide a quicker turn response and made my front spring rate stiffer.

After getting a better turn in response, providing me with a slightly faster lap time in the chicane and esses, I looked at improving my corner holding ability, as there are a few corners at Apricot Hill which are very long and smooth with little change in direction. So I upped the Camber slightly, and am now holding a faster speed through the longer corners.

I'm still fairly early on. After further testing I'm looking for this track is strengthening the springs/damper and lowering ride height, and of course continue to tweak current settings to see if there is any more to be gained/changes.

I expect to be in the 1:21.xxx soon and hopefully my final time for the Audi will be in the 1:20.xxx, but at the moment thats a while off, and I also have another car to drive, so only so much time can be spent in one car!

Hope this helps someone, and good luck to everyone competing!

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L-F Stock tuning (GTP WTAC Week 19: Big Performance From Little Packages,Autumn Ring (forward), HPA Motorsports Stage II R32 ‘04 & Toyota ALTEZZA Touring Car :)

I only set a 0 rear toe, I haven't touched any other settings, ran 5x 3laps arcade S rank race then 10 laps TT.

About L-F Tuning, I only uses it for Race Cars, those with these default settings :

6 6 8 8
0.00 +0.20 2.0 1.0 ...

Stock cars usually have these default settings :

2 2 1 1
0.00 +0.20 0 0

You will easily agree that L-F tuning here seems to be hard to do -except for the rear toe- !!! (I usually do the "Reverse L-F tuning" : spring&damper x2, but I might be wrong, I'm very bad at tuning !!!)

The HPA is a tuned car and has its own default settings, so I just set a 0 to rear toe because this setting seems to be THE default setting for -almost- All cars ! Once I know the car better , I'll try to set both camber to 0 to "feel" the difference... and then try L-F tuning.

The Toyota is a Race Car, you can be sure I'll set the L-F tuning for my very first lap !!! ;)

With normal road cars I do exactly as you say Easyasashii for a start.

I will

Max Aero
Ride Height 0/0
Spring Rate x3 default values
Damper x4 default values
Toe 0/0
Camber 0/0

Put the laps in, usually about 50 for a standard ~4km course before I look at altering the settings any further. There are always cars that are the exception to the rule, but those are the basic guidelines I start with each new WTAC.

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Lion-Face Ferrari Enzo '02 setup : GTP WTAC Week 04 : Le Prince Francescoli, Midfield Raceway - Forward, Enzo Ferrari (SP Model or not) '02 (or Enzo Ferrari (SP Model or not) '02 + Ferrari F2007) :

:lol: Love the pic easy! :D

This is a tough one, PJ-FFL came out of nowhere with that time! I just hope he hasn't improved!

I'm currently down to 1:15.1xx in a clean lap, but with dirty laps with splits that'll hit 1:14.9xx so I'm hoping to end up in the 1:14's by the end of the week.

I have no setup advice for this one, its tough. Any tweaking often ends up in more turn in but more difficult to get the power down and keep the car in a straight line. Currently I'm using my setup that I used back in the supercar challenge at Valencia. Whether its correct or not I don't know, currently its quick, but its very hard to be consistent. This week is more about car control than setup.

For those interested, my setup is....

Ride Height - +0/+3
Springs - 5/1
Damper - 3/1
Toe - 0/0
Camber - 1.5/0

No aids - If anything, you could try a small TCS, maybe 1 or 2, but anything more and you'll be losing more than your gaining.

This setup was for Valencia, which is a completely different track to Midfield. Valencia was all one corner at a time, brake hard, turn, accel out. Midfield has a lot of double corners where you can take as one turn with 2 apexs' but relies on being able to adjust the speed of the car while the car may not be 50/50 balanced. Thats my take on it, the default setup of the Enzo isn't too bad, it allows you to get the power down but I feel its a little too understeery for my liking, so somewhere between the default setup and my setup might be ideal.

First split you should be aiming for a 0:24.000 or better. The second split I've been hitting is below 0:48.000 If you hitting these splits, you should be able to break into the 1:15 barrier.

Couple of corner tips....

First corner, braking down to approx 110kph as you apex, and run the car all the way out to the outside ripple strip to take a wide line into the 2nd corner. You should be able to apex the second corner about 130-135 and smoothly accel out of there without running wide.

Third corner you need to lightly brake down to approx 160kph and roll through the right hand corner, taking a late apex you should be able to go full throttle out of the third corner, taking the fourth left hand reasonably straight and clipping the outside ripple strip on your way out. An early shift to 5th gear at approx 180-190kph sometimes helps keep the car under control.

Fifth corner - Bridge - the first apex isn't too important, just get the car slowed down enough to roll through the corner, even in the middle of the track, what your aiming for is a nice apex through turn 6 in the tunnel so you can exit turn six on the right hand side of the track to set you up for the left hand hairpin.

Hairpin, turn seven. Long hairpin, you can lightly brake and let the car roll around the corner just tapping the accel. Nearer the end of the corner I let the car drop to approx 110kph to take a late apex and accel as straight as possible. Accel too early here is easy to do and means you run out of road quickly.

Turn 8 and 9, Full speed at the apex of 8, clip the ripple strip, then brake for 9, you should be able to drop to about 160kph for the apex of turn 9 before getting back on the brakes for turn 10

Turn 10 - generally coming from turn 9 about the middle of the track, brake and turn towards the apex down to about 75kph, hug the ripple strip through most of the corner. A smooth exit here is vital for a good time, and the camber of the road helps keep the power down.

Turn 11 - I find turning in early and maintaining between 150-160kph through the apex will set you up for a full throttle turn 12.

Turn 12 - An early apex here at full throttle should give you plenty of room to run wide at the exit and take a nice straight line as the road crests. An early shift into 5th gear can settle the car and keep the power down as you come over the hill.

This was meant to be a quick post, but I got carried away :D Hope this helps someone in some way, its just approx my line through the track with the Enzo on S3's and my setup above. Don't worry too much about the speeds, they are not the 'minimum's just approx of the top of my head, sometimes slower, sometimes faster, but it should give you something to aim for as you get a feel for the track. As I said above, I believe this track and car combo is more about driver skill and knowledge than setup, so stick to one setup and run lap after lap. You will improve your time with practice here, not car settings.

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Lion-Face Mitsubishi FTO Super Touring Car setup : GTP WTAC Week 05 : Chinook !, Seattle Circuit - Forward, Mercedes-Benz CLK Touring Car '00 and Mitsubishi FTO Super Touring Car :

I finally cracked it

Mitsubishi FTO Super Touring Car
R1/R1
No Aids

1:29.921

Replay uploaded so you guys can watch my lap, see where you could improve etc. Not an official entry, I have about .5secs to find through mistakes on that lap. Whether I do actually go back and try to find that time I doubt, as its hard enough cracking the 1:29's and I still have to buy the Merc this week and race that.

Setup was

Aero Max/Max
Ride Height -+0/0
Springs 2/2
Damper 2/2
Toe 0/-.05
Camber 0/0

After using my default setup, I tried softer springs to get a better ride over the curbs. The softer setup worked by allowing me to take more curb but without it throwing the car across the track into the wall. I tweaked the toe just slightly on the rear to provide me with a quicker response to turn in, allowing me to quickly switch directions for the chicanes, as going that soft on the springs I introduced a little understeer to my default setup.

Hope that helps! Good luck everyone.

Lion-Face Mercedes-Benz CLK Touring Car '00 setup : GTP WTAC Week 05 : Chinook !, Seattle Circuit - Forward, Mercedes-Benz CLK Touring Car '00 and Mitsubishi FTO Super Touring Car :

[...]

Mercedes-Benz CLK Touring Car '00
Pro Physics
No Aids
R1/R1

1:30.454

I didn't go back and attempt my time with the FTO again, I spent my time making money to buy the Mercedes, which I have done in the past hour or so and have put about 20laps into it for this time. The Mercedes rode the curbs a lot better than the FTO, so you could run the suspension a bit harder and lower the ride height slightly. The Merc was faster down the straight and had a better turn in, but had a bit of understeer on corner exit, and being rear wheel, had some trouble getting the power down out of some of the slower corners.

My final setup for the Merc was.

Aero Max/Max
Ride Heigh -3/-3
Springs 4/4
Damper 5/5
Toe 0/-0.5
Camber 0/0

Although I only did a few laps with the Merc, I don't know whether it would have beaten the FTO. It was faster through the first and last sectors, but lost out heavily in the middle sector and I'm not sure if putting more time into the car would have produced a faster lap.

Really enjoyed this weeks challenge. Seattle has been a favorite of mine since GT2 and the Mitsubishi FTO Super Touring Car has always been a frequently run car in my garage throughout all the Gran Turismos. Here's hoping that its a 'Premium' Car for GT5! :D

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Lion-Face Clio Renault Sport V6 24V '00 setup : GTP WTAC Week 06 : Nightmare Week !, Motorland - Reverse, Clio Renault Sport V6 24V '00 :

:D My tuning was just sheer determination to beat your time, once you locked your time in, I knew what I had to beat, and was putting in the laps to beat it. Took me about an hour to get from 0:46.6xx down to my time that I posted.

My tuning was....based off your tuning. After a few laps on default settings, and then running your settings, it was obvious the harder setup worked better, but too hard and you couldn't ride the curbs which you needed to through the first section of the track. This was what I used for my submitted laptime.

Ride Height -18/-14
Spring Rate 7/8
Damper 3/4
Toe +0.05/-0.10
Camber 1.6/2.4

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Lion-Face BMW M3 GTR '03 setup : GTP WTAC Week 07 : Greystoke ! : Deep Forest - Reverse, BMW M3 GTR '03 AND BMW M3 GTR Race Car '01 :

[...]

My setup for the BMW M3 GTR '03 currently is...

Ride Height 0/0
Spring Rate 7/6
Damper 4/3
Toe 0/0
Camber 2.0/1.0

Work in progress, maybe a few tweaks here or there, but is quite a balanced setup which handles the key corners with good speed.

I would recommend in trails like this one where you have to post a combo time. Run the slower car, and slower car only for as long as you can until you feel you have nailed a fast lap. All the experience you get from driving the slower car around the track will help you get a faster time much quicker in the faster car. If you keep hopping from car to car, you will only see small improvements if any as you have to give yourself a number of laps to re-adjust yourself to the speed of the car.

I haven't raced the M3 Race car yet, and probably won't until the last or 2nd to last day.

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Lion-Face BMW McLaren F1 GTR Race Car '97 setup : GTP WTAC Week 08 : Old School !, Grand Valley Speedway - Forward, BMW McLaren F1 GTR Race Car '97 vs Ford GT LM Race Car Spec II :

I've given it a few laps, probably about an hour or so and have hit a 1:45.5xx with the BMW Mclaren.

Its a tough car to run, being MR you have to run the car with some throttle through the corners to keep the car in balance, too much throttle and the rear end easily steps out. They are a very tough car type to master on the PSP.

My settings were...
Aero - Max/Max
Ride Height -2/0
Springs 3/3
Damper 3/4
Toe 0/0
Camber 0/0
No Aids

I've only hit that time once, it came out of nowhere and haven't really gotten close. One corner can cost you a lot of time if you don't nail it right. Majority of my laps are low to mid 1:46.xxx but that took me a long while to get to somewhere near consistent and even then I'm still in the 1:47's more often than I would like. The BMW is a tough car to run, and would recommend running TCS to get comfortable with the car/track combo.

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easyasashii Peugeot 206 Rally Car '99 + Ford Focus Rally Car '99 setup : GTP WTAC Week 09 : Assisi !, Città di Aria - Reverse, Ford Focus Rally Car '99 vs Peugeot 206 Rally Car '99 :

I might not have the time to play + post before deadline so I'll post these two first just in case !

Peugeot 206 Rally Car '99 : 1'33.813

I'm a little bit desappointed by this time because I have several unclean laptimes under 1'33.5xx so I should be able to do better than that ! First split 0'24.420 whereas I usually have a 0'24.2xx and even saw 0'23.9xx twice, then second splits 0'53.071 whereas I usually have a 0'52.xxx... Well...) Here are my settings :

Aero Max/Max
Ride Height 0/0
Springs 2/2
Damper 8/8
Toe 0/0
Camber 0/0

(basically default setting for spring damper and all other set to 0)

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Ford Focus Rally Car '99 : 1'33.140

Pretty happy with this one and I would like to work more with the Peugeot so...

1'32.xxx is definitely possible !

My tuning :

Aero Max/Max
Ride Height -10/-10
Springs 2/2
Damper 8/8
Toe 0/0
Camber 0/0

I almost made another Peugeot ;) !

Good luck !

:gtpflag:

Sylar Ford Focus Rally Car '99 setup : GTP WTAC Week 09 : Assisi !, Città di Aria - Reverse, Ford Focus Rally Car '99 vs Peugeot 206 Rally Car '99 :

Wow congratulations easyasashii that's an amazing lap of 1'33.140 in the Focus. The best I can manage is a 133.545 with the following setup.

Aero 13/32
Ride Height -20/-20
Springs 8/8
Damper 8/8
Toe 0/+0.20
Camber 2.0/1.0

I am happy just to make it into the 133.xxx as I was sure the best I could manage before hitting my limit was a mid 1.44.xxx if I was lucky

Lion-Face Ford Focus Rally Car '99 setup : GTP WTAC Week 09 : Assisi !, Città di Aria - Reverse, Ford Focus Rally Car '99 vs Peugeot 206 Rally Car '99 :

My tuning so far.....

Downforce Max/Max
Ride Height -20/-15
Springs 6/5
Damper 4/4
Toe +0.05/-0.10
Camber 0/0

Makes the car a little loose but responds better to quick turns and better corner speeds. Just watch the exit of some of those corners as the camber of the road can easily push you into a wall...

I haven't put much testing into it so far, still early days, but may give you something to play with if you feel the setup could be better. Work in progress, although I feel that those settings will be what I end up with, as a quick time here is about putting in the laps and a little bit of luck :)

EDIT: With the Ford Focus.

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Lion-Face Tips for WTAC : GTP WTAC Week 12: Take it EASY, Grand Valley East (reverse), Hommell Berlinette R/S Coupe '99 & Renault 5 Turbo '80 :

Welcome red ice :)

A few tips for the WTAC.

In a combo car week, I would advise running one car for the majority of the week. Pick the hardest car of the two that is on offer, and race that car for a good 4-5 days. Then, using the last day or so of the week, run the other car, you will find it much easier to set a quick time with the 2nd car seeing as you know the track and have a lot of laps under your belt, you can quickly bring the second car up to speed. You will find this a good way of setting more consistent times, rather than jumping between cars every few laps as you don't have to re-learn each car after driving the other.

Basic car setups. Always start with toe = 0/0 (front/rear) and camber = 0/0 (front/rear). The default settings in the game are geared towards understeer, making the car harder to turn in and accel early. And getting either one of these settings wrong can affect top speed/accel down the straights, so its often best to set these to 0 and see how you go from there. My time below was set on the default settings and setting the toe = 0/0.

Be smooth, brake early and straight, accelerate smoothly, tapping the accelerator and be gentle. No sudden movements with the steering. The smoother you are, the faster you will go. Its all about keeping the car in balance and in check.

Practice practice practice. The best times come from knowledge of the car/track more so than setup. A setup can squeeze a small amount of time out of a car, but the majority of faster time comes with track time. The more laps you put in, the better understanding of the car you have and how to take each corner.

After 10laps in the Hommell I have a time of 1:18.695.

A rough lap goes like this...

Turn 1 (fast left) - Brake just before the 50m sign and ease the car into the corner, apex about 145kmph. Let the car run a little wide for the next corner...4th gear

Turn 2 (slower left) - Brake coming out of the last corner and as you enter this one, apexing the corner at about 110kmph. 3rd Gear

Turn 3 (right kink) - Flat out up the hill, stick to the right of the road.

Turn 4 (left into tunnel) - you can take this faster than what it may appear. Just a dab on the brakes, clip the inside curb and keep pulling left. Use the raised curb inside the tunnel to prevent you running too far right and into the wall, move to left of track for next corner. 3rd gear

Turn 5 (tight right hander out of tunnel) - Where the curb opens up inside the tunnel is your braking point. Brake down into 2nd gear and apex this corner at around 75kmph. 2nd gear.
Because I've only done 8 laps, I haven't played around with my line through this corner, although I suspect taking a slower apex and sticking further to the right as you exit this corner will lead to a better lap time overall.

Turn 6 (double apex left - first apex) - Just release the throttle and roll through the apex, get on the power when you can as its full throttle from here on to the hairpin. The earlier the better, but that will depend on your line from the last corner.

Turn 7 (double apex left - second apex) - Full throttle, clip the curb on the inside and ride the car out wide maximizing speed.

Turn 8/9/10 (right flick, fast left, easy right chicane over the hill) - Flat out through here, hug the inside of the first right, bring the car across to clip the apex through the left over the crest, and let the car run wide as you come down the hill through the easy right hander as you rejoin back with Grand Valley Speedway.

Turn 11 (Hairpin) - Braking approx halfway between 100m and 50m sign (roughly where the curb begins on the right side of the road, brake down to around 85kmph and roll around the inside of the corner, keep it tidy, and accel as you near the exit of the corner, do it too soon and you'll be off the track, be patient and you'll get a good run out of the corner and down the main straight. 3rd gear.

As I said, its a rough lap, I've only done 8 laps in the car so it is only the beginning. Take it as a guide to help you get started but don't be afraid to mix it up if you think you have a better way of taking a corner/speed/gear etc. Hope it helps some.

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Lion-Face TVR Tamora '02 & Shelby Series One Super Charged '03 setup : GTP WTAC Week 14 : Top Down Throw Down, New York (reverse), TVR Tamora '02 & Shelby Series One Super Charged '03 :

Here are my setups for both cars.

TVR
Ride Height -12/-9
Springs 9/9
Damper 7/6
Toe -0.05/-0.10
Camber 2.6/1.8

Shelby
Ride Height -11/-11
Springs 6/6
Damper 4/4
Toe -0.00/-0.10
Camber 2.6/1.8

Currently in the 1:47.4xx with the TVR and the 1:46.3xx in the Shelby. I expect by deadline I'll be in the 46's with the TVR and 45's with the Shelby.

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Sylar HPA Motorsports Stage II R32 '04 setup : GTP WTAC Week 19: Big Performance From Little Packages,Autumn Ring (forward), HPA Motorsports Stage II R32 ‘04 & Toyota ALTEZZA Touring Car :

Did some laps in the Golf and its harder to get a good lap time with the golf as car spins quite a bit until you get out of second and find that staying in third to reduce wheelspin kills the accerlation. The suspension also seems too soft for me.

The setup I was using on the Golf which is a bit unorthodox as actually prefer it with a -0.40 rear toe setting to increase the overstee.

ride height -10,-10 (front, rear)
spring rate 1,10
damper 1,10
toe -0.01,-0.40
camber 1.0,0.5

For the toyota I was using the default setup only change I made was to set the rear toe to -0.30 as I found It helped the car turn in easier.

I also had this problem initially Detroitbb and found that setting rear toe to -0.030 solved it.

Best times so far are
Golf - 1'18.511 1'18.357
Toyota - 1'18.415

Detroitbb tips :

Well, I'm not the best person to be giving driving tips... but I'll try to offer a couple of comments:

Feathering the gas (tap-tap-tap... start slow and increase the speed/frequency of the tapping as your car straightens out - then lay on the throttle). Especially useful for the big, tight turns like turn 1, 5, and 8.

Break a bit earlier before turn 4 so you can get on the gas earlier and have a better angle to attack the turn.

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Lion-Face Analog and Driving Tips : GTP WTAC Week 23 : Gone But Not Forgotten, Twin Ring Motegi Road Course, Nissan C-WEST RAZO SILVIA (JGTC) '01 & Toyota SUPERAUTOBACS APEX MR-S (JGTC) '00 :

I'm sorry to hear about your PSP red ice! Although I would recommend learning the Analog nub, it is quicker in GTPSP to use the Analog over the D-pad. It will take you a while to get used to it, but it is worth it in the long run. I would advise sticking to week 24 just with the analog nub and see how you go.

Now, I've just watched your Toyota Lap. Motegi is a tricky track to get right, I've never felt fully comfortable with the track myself, but I'm learning. Here's my advice for you to try out. I don't mean to offend, just offer some advice in where I think your going wrong.

The biggest problems I saw on your lap were the S-bend combination corners. The reasonably long and fast S-Bend about 2/3rds of the way around, and then the final S-bend/Chicane leading onto the main straight.

What you need to do is take the first corner slower and position yourself to take the 2nd corner faster. So for the 1st S-bend, you needed to tuck yourself into the apex, nice and tight and hold the inside curb all the way around the left hander, from there you are in a good position to sweep right and come across the apex, lifting for only a second and powering out.

The 2nd S-bend at the end of the circuit (victory corner I believe) you cut into the first corner far to early. You should follow the tire marks all the way around, this way you will be as far left as possible for the quick right. The straighter you can make a corner, the faster you will be.

At the moment you are entering the S-bends 10km's (roughly, just as an example) faster than I would. So that will get you about 10km's faster than me through the first corner, you second corner though is the other way around, and I will exit 10km's faster than you. That means down the long straight that follows, I'm 10km's faster all the way down, if not more. Thats a lot of time your losing by compromising your exit on the 2nd corner.

The way to setup for a cornerm or a combination of corners, is to figure out what is going to give me the fastest exit speed for the next straight. The longer the straight, the more important it is to get a fast exit. Sure you could go faster through the corner, but a corner only lasts a few seconds, while a straight can be 10seconds long. If I'm going to be 10km's faster per second, would you rather it be the 2seconds in the corner, or the 10seconds down a straight.

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Lion-Face Rally Tips GTP WTAC Week 28 : Rally Challenge presented by rpr101, Tahiti Maze (forward), Toyota Celica GT-Four Rally Car (ST205) '95 & Subaru Impreza '99 :

I'm not big on rallying either, but the concept of going fast is the same as on tarmac.

My general tips are:
You have to brake before the turn, trail off the braking while turning in, give the car a boot of power to swing the back around and control the angle of drift with the accelerator. When you see the exit of the corner, you need to tap the accelerator to regain traction and accelerate forward and out of the corner.

If your still sliding sideways as your exiting the corner, you losing time, you need to be going forward as soon as your past the apex, and the most important corners are the ones that lead onto the long straights.

Its fairly basic stuff, but its often the basics that give you the best speed and times. Tahiti Maze isn't a difficult rally course, plenty of switchbacks but if you can nail one, thats 50% of the track. The difficulty is the length and consistency and keeping off the walls that makes a good lap tricky. Braking too late on tarmac can cost you a tenth or two, braking too late on dirt can put you into the wall.

Brake early, keep tight lines through the switchbacks and don't get too sideways on the fast sections.

So far I'm in the last 1:26's after a handful of laps in the Subaru. I need everyone to be fast this week, if Pitch isn't going to be posting a fast time, I need him down the results sheets as much as possible if I'm going to make it 2 WTAC's in a row :D

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Detroitbb TCS experience GTP WTAC Week 29 : easyasashii's Ruf Riders, Fuji Speedway (90's), RUF CTR "Yellow Bird" '87 & RUF CTR2 '96 :

I tried to use it for the last challenge... but I found that while I was sliding the rear end of the car less frequently, I was also much slower coming out of turns (and I could never beat any of my ghosts as a result). I also found that not having TCS on makes me aware of the exact speed in which my car loses grip around a turn. With TCS on, I don't have that exact moment when I'm aware that I've pushed the limits of my tire's grip.

Dan360 Fuji Driving Tip

One tip from me; in pretty much all slow corners of Fuji 90's, try to get the inner most line, especially the first 2 corners. This is without riding on the inside kurb. Cutting (but keeping 2 tires on track) would work on the entry to the second chicane.

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Dan360 Bugatti Veyron 16.4 '09 setup at Nurburgring !!! GTP WTAC Week Off : Sesame, Open Leaderboards !!!

Thanks easy!

Oh, and i'll tell you my tuning for free! It was soft stiff, about 2.5/3.5 camber, and -0.05/-0.10 toe (front/rear). I'm not a tuning expert, but I think this setup is good enough for the bumpy tracks, such as Nurburgring

Thanks for the heads up. 👍

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red ice Tuning experience GTP WTAC Week 39 : Battle For 2009, Nurburgring, Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 (C6) '09 & Nissan GT-R SpecV '09 :

It does handle better being an AWD car. It tends to understeer at corners so it will balance out those very fast turns at the RING. Its better to learn the track using the GT-R. It requires less steering input and feels a lot safer than the ZR-1. It is also better to have a higher ride height and soft springs/dampers due to nature of the track...BUMPY, UNEVEN SURFACE, HIGH CURBS/RUMBLE STRIPS. The GT-R accelerates with tremendous grip while cornering. The key to the track is balance and avoiding high-speed braking while one of your tires are over the grass or a high curb as it will tend to make your car spin out. This is because when braking weight is naturally thrown forward to your Front tires, making one of the rear tires lose traction and won't be able to grip. It can be opposite scenario also that the Front will lose grip when Driving high speed and you touch a greater part of grass or uneven surface. The cars balance is very important here. I also think setting the Front Toe-In makes the car turn easier but loses turn response on larger turns.

FRont Toe-In--(Plus Zero) Increases Initial Turn-In but decreases Grip while cornering.
Front Toe-Out--(Minus Zero) Decreases Initial Turn-In but Increases overall Grip during the corner.

The RING does not have too many sweepers so I will try out setting the front tires to a slight Toe-In. The logic being, easy Turn then Accelerate Out quickly.
Correct Corner entry angle is enough to get a proper exit speed which is needed to get faster lap times.
OUT-IN-OUT. Maximizing the Curbs can be an advantage too. Just try to remember the WTAC rules regarding clean or unclean laps.

I'm not a fast driver in the Ring but I can pull off some clean laps. :)

Dan360 Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 (C6) '09 setup :

I've made a clean lap around the 'Ring in the Corvette and I achieved a 7'07.8xx. Here's my Corvette tuning for anyone who wants it:

Front/Rear

Ride height - -5/-5
Springs: 4/4
Damper: 5/3
Toe: +0.05/+0.35
Camber*: 2.1/2.1

*I don't fully understand on how camber works, so I left it at a reasonable angle.

Thanks for the Tuning tips, however I set my car to the opposite. high ride, soft springs,.My personal best was 7'19.xxx driving the car all week. I plan to submit both cars even though I'm not that fast.
Super skills you got there Dan360!!!

Thanks red ice! I agree with you on the suspension settings. I think mine is a bit too low, as sometimes the car can be sent flying when I hit an inside rumble strip. I've increased the ride height to +10/+10 an reduced stiffness and damper settings down one value, so the springs would be 3/3. 👍

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MVR08 Dodge VIPER GTS-R Team Oreca Race Car '00 setup : GTP WTAC Week 50 : Viperidae, Infineon Raceway - Sports Car Course, Dodge VIPER GTS '99 & Dodge VIPER GTS-R Team Oreca Race Car '00 :

Thanks, and sure there you go...



Feel free to add your own setups / advices or the posts you loved here ;) !

:gtpflag:

:cheers:
 
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This is another post that I added in my signature :

Suspension Tuning Guide by Trewer_Rath :

Suspension Tuning Guide:

***Apply settings in small steps and try to do only one or two at a time...keep note of changes which have been in the right direction.Avoid doing several changes and/or large adjustments at one time as this may well produce an undesired result and will make it more difficult for you to fine tune your car.Try to find settings that make the vehicle comfortable for you to drive not only fast...but smooth! Suspension tuning isnt a one set fits all enterprise...many factors can have influence on tuning cars.Track,vehicle condition,modifications,weather and gamer experience...not to mention the type of controller!

A)CAR FEELS UNSTABLE:
-Excessive front toe.
-Too soft a shock.
-Too much camber
-Front sway bar too stiff.
-Excessive front or rear brake bias.
-Too low a ride height
-Spoiler downforce too low.

CAR FEELS UNRESPONSIVE:

-Springs too soft.
-Shocks too soft.
-Front sway bar too small.

CAR FEELS OVER RESPONSIVE:
-Springs too stiff.
-Shocks too soft.
-Front sway bar too large.

B)CAR OVERSTEERS ENTERING CORNER:
-Not enough toe out.
-Rear camber too high.
-Not enough front brake bias.
-Front sway bar too small.
-Too large a rear sway bar.
-Rear ride height too high.
-Rear shock rebound too stiff.
-Front shock compression too soft.
-Rear shock rebound too stiff.
-Spoiler downforce too low.
-Front springs too weak.
-Rear springs too stiff.

CAR OVERSTEERS IN THE MIDDLE OF A CORNER:
-Front spring too soft.
-Rear spring too stiff.
-Front sway bar too soft.
-Excessive front toe (in or out)
-Improper camber settings.
-Not enough negative Front camber.
-Excessive positive camber in the Rear.
-Too high a differential ratio causing wheel spin.
-Front shock compression too low.
-Rear shock rebound too high.
-Rear shock compression too high.
-Spoiler downforce too low.

CAR OVERSTEERS EXITING A CORNER:
-Too much positive Front camber.
-Too high a differential ratio causing wheel spin.
-Too small a front sway bar.
-Excessive front toe (in or out).
-Too large a rear sway bar.
-Rear ride height too high.
-Rear shock compression too stiff.
-Front shock rebound too soft.
-Spoiler downforce too low.
-Front springs too weak.
-Rear springs too stiff.

C)CAR UNDERSTEERS ENTERING CORNER:
-Too much toe out.
-Too much front brake bias.
-Front sway bar too large.
-Too small a rear sway bar.
-Rear ride height too low.
-Rear shock rebound too weak.
-Front shock compression too stiff.
-Rear shock rebound too weak.
-Spoiler downforce too high.
-Front springs too stiff.
-Rear springs too weak.

CAR UNDERSTEERS IN THE MIDDLE OF A CORNER:
-Front spring too stiff.
-Rear spring too soft.
-Front sway bar too stiff.
-Excessive front toe (in or out)
-Improper camber settings.
-Front shock compression too high.
-Rear shock rebound too low.
-Rear shock compression too low.
-Spoiler downforce too high.

CAR UNDERSTEERS EXITING A CORNER:
-Too large a front sway bar.
-Excessive front toe (in or out).
-Too small a rear sway bar
-Rear shock compression too soft.
-Front shock rebound too stiff.
-Spoiler downforce too high.
-Front springs too stiff.
-Rear springs too soft.

1)CAMBER

Too much negative Front camber:
->Car turns into a corner too quickly or becomes loose.
->Chassis will tighten up from the middle out.

Too much negative Rear camber:
->Tight condition from the middle out.
->Loose condition entering a corner.

Too much positive Front camber:
->Car turns into a corner too slowly & feels tight.
->Chassis will loosen up from the middle out.

Too much positive Rear camber:
->Loose condition from the middle out.
->Tight condition entering a corner.

2)FRONT BRAKE BIAS

Too much front brake bias:
->Will cause car to push while braking.

Not enough front brake bias:
->Will cause car to become loose while braking.

[...]

4)FRONT TOE OUT

Too much toe out:

->Car feels difficult to turn into corner.
->Car may not take set in the corner.
->Car will want to push.
->Car may wander under heavy braking.

Too much toe in:
->Car turns into a corner quicker than it should with very little wheel movement.
->Car will feel loose upon entry into a corner & is generally unstable.

[...]

6)RIDE HEIGHT

Too low a ride height:
->Car will bottom out.
->On the rear will increase straightaway speeds.

Too high a ride height:
->On the rear will increase rear traction & bite.

7)SHOcKS

Front shocks too stiff:
->Car will push entering the corner while braking.
->Car will also push while accelerating exiting a corner.

Front shocks too weak:
->Car will be loose entering a corner while braking.
->Car will also feel loose exiting a corner while under acceleration.

Rear shocks too stiff:
->Car will be loose entering a corner while braking.
->Car will also feel loose exiting a corner while under acceleration.

Rear shocks too weak:
->Car will push entering the corner while braking.
->Car will also push while accelerating exiting a corner.

8)DOWNFORCE
Too high a spoiler downforce setting:

->slower straight-away speeds.
->Chassis will feel tight while cornering.

Too low a spoiler setting:
->Faster straight-away speeds.
->Chassis will feel loose while cornering.

9)SPRINGS
Front springs too stiff:
->Car will Understeer.
->Car feels stiff & unresponsive.

Front springs too weak:
->Car will Understeer.
->Front of car will dive entering a corner & may bottom out while braking.
->Excessive body roll.
->Mid turn push.

Rear springs too stiff:
->Car will Oversteer when accelerating.
->Excessive wheelspin.

Rear springs too weak:
->Car will Understeer.
->Excessive rear squat when accelerating possibly bottoming out.
->Car will roll over onto the RR.
->Car may be slow to take a set.

Hope this helps!

and also a tuning website (even if it is not really adapted for GT PSP, I guess -hope :scared:- we still can find some direction to follow) :

http://www.gtvault.com/

:cheers:
 
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Thanks easy. This should come in handy. I still have the printout copy of Sir L-F's welcome message and advice for me. LOL!
I don't remember when did you mention this to me, but you also advised me to win single races at S-class first before taking serious laps at Time Trials. Its quite effective for me.
Now, I always take this approach for every TAC I join. Thanks for everyone's driving tips.
 
You're welcome :cheers: ! Hope to see new posts here too... like this one ;) !

red ice, Laguna Seca driving tips, GTP WTAC Week 51 : Easyasashii's Classic Ladies, Laguna Seca, Chevrolet Corvette Z06 (C2) Race Car '63 & Shelby Cobra 427 '66

Just wanna post this as Laguna Seca is one of my all-time favorite tracks (certainly not a fast racer at it).

Laguna Seca Turn by Turn Guide
(courtesy of Trackpedia.com)

Turn 1
A quick note about the track in general: the apexes are at the red curbs that are inside the flat curbs. Do not hit these red bits, as they are high and can damage wheels. The exception to this is T5, where the apex is just after the red block and the corkscrew where they do not exist. -Michael Skeen
(I'm not a pro, probably not even very good, but I've been fortunate enough to do about 100 laps of Laguna Seca in an S2000. Speeds and gears for a stock S2000... Adjust all speeds gears for the appropriate car.)
Although it doesn't seem like much of a turn but is possibly the scariest. Since the approact to T1 is uphill and the turn itself is on the crest, this can leave the rear end light at high speed on fast cars with low downforce.
For now just picture yourself winding out full throttle at 90-95 mph in 3rd or just having shifted to 4th and hitting 100-105 having just cleared the Start / Finish hitting a speed of 90-100 miles an hour as you approach the Andretti Hairpin.
This is a full throttle corner that has poor approach visibility. That's the challenge. A 'chicken lift' rising over the hill means less pucker and a lot of lost time. With the lift your approach to Corner 2 is about 90-95 instead of 100-105 mph. My first visit to Laguna I lifted for about 30 consecutive laps before getting up the gumption to go full out. A big smile followed my 31st attempt.
Exiting, you should be aiming for the #1 or #2 Brake Marker (BM) of Corner 2.

Turn 2 "The Andretti Hairpin"
"The Andretti Hairpin" 190 deg left hand hairpin - 45mph 3rd gear or 2nd if challenged:
Corner 2 is the first corner you hit if you enter right after exiting the pits the way the Champ Cars do. Motorbikes use the FIA entrance which enters the track after corner 2. I've used both and prefer the FIA entrance for safety (this enters the track right *after* the hairpin.
Single Apex Method (Novice): Usually when approaching this corner I'm aiming for the #2 or #1 Brake Marker (BM) and hard on the brakes at or just before #4. You need all of the braking you can get since you're going about 100-110mph if you have done Corner 1 correctly. You heel and toe downshift from 4 to 3 (or 2) but be sure to get speed down below 50 before releasing if in 2nd or you will have a big problem. The key (on the single apex approach) to this corner is remember to stay outside until at nearly halfway around the corner. By this time you should have come in from the right about 1/3 of the way. Remember to hit a late apex here since an apex too early is how my friend made his S2000 a sub-compact. Use all the track and the rumble strip to "track out". Come back in to the left slightly and straighten and THEN turn toward the BM 4. Get over left and then turn along the outside of the track. A slight right kink will force you to turn right slightly... brake in a straight line between 2 and 1 and turn at one. Stay in 3rd unless you are heavily challenged.
Double Apex Method: If you are trying for higher times you might try the double apex approach to Corner 2. Use the same approach to the corner but instead of braking hard at brake marker (BM) 4 to BM 1 turn in to the corner on the left and brake late (BM2?) which takes you right at the apex to the outside of the hairpin. then turn in and hit the exact same apex at before.

Turn 3
Corner 3 right hander - 50-55mph 3rd gear or 2nd if challenged:
Corner 3 approach is as above and in 2nd or 3rd you hit a moderately late apex and track out. Turn in is BM 1 (this is the standard on this track) and use the rumble strip if necessary (this is optimal). You are now on the far left of the track... stay there going under the big tire.
If you have entered T3 at the proper entry speed and hit your apex, you should gain good momentum to carry you through T4 and up to T5 where the uphill really begins.

Turn 4
Corner 4 right hander - 70mph 3rd gear:
Corner 4 is probably my favourite. Hard on the gas to BM 2. Punch the brakes for a spit second to slow slightly and turn in early... about 2/3 the way between BM 2 and 1 (like BM 1.3). Don't shift. You'll be on the power still in 3rd as you turn and hit a surprising EARLY apex. Weird, I know, but it works. You are going to take this very fast and will need to get 2 tires on the left hand rumble strip. This sets you up nicely for a sweeping kink with no name. I call it "the sweeping kink with no name".
Run through this at full speed and if I'm getting the hang of the track I'll be shifting into 4th and hitting nearly 105 before hitting the brakes for 6.

Turn 5
Corner 5 left hander - 50-55mph 3rd gear:
The biggest challenge for me in Corner 5 is the inevitable downshift to 3rd. This is a pretty fast corner so getting the shift completed without upsetting the car is tricky. Other than that... textbook. Brake between 4 and 2 turn in at 1, moderately late apex and on the gas to the right outside of the track to set up for 6.
Due to the slight kink prior to the bridge preceding the turn, T5 can be deceiving. Watch your markers and brake earlier than you think in order to exit this corner quickly and safely.

Turn 6
Corner 6 left hander - 70-75mph 3rd gear:
I love Corner 6 for its high speed and the cool little gutter on the apex (left side). You don't brake much in the approach... say BM 3 to 2. You will take this uphill lefthander VERY fast. Maybe 70-75mph. If you can hit a medium apex and get two tires in the "gutter" it will swing you nicely around the corner and zoom up the hill. The temptation in a well executed corner is to NOT track out. WRONG! Track out using the rumble on the right to set up perfectly for the uphill climb to the "little kink". By doing this you have just straightened the entire climb to Corner 7 and probably gone as quickly through Corner 6 as you can.
T6 is another deceptive corner. You can enter this corner a little faster if you can nail it correctly.

"The Rahal Straight"
This is a long uphill straight that actually has a little kink going up the hill that's hard to see on the map. The kink is a left hander - full throttle 3rd gear:
Here I'd like to describe an important feature of the track. There is a slight "little kink" in the track between corners 6 and 7. It is right after the bridge (or is it a sign?) and kinks to the left. You should aim for the spot one third to the right of the left side of the sign ( If this is the sign, aim for the asterisk |.....*..........| ) This will have you run OVER the rumble strip and completely straighten the kink. You will now be approaching Corner 7 perfectly.

Turn 7
Corner 7 right hander - 50-55mph 3rd gear:
When you are through the "little kink" as described above you will approach Corner 7. This is barely a corner at all but is super important as a setup for the Corkscrew. Just before Corner 7 the up hill approach steepens abruptly. There is typically a bunch of rubber laid down on the track here. The beginning of this rubber is my start braking mark. Nebulous I know but that's how I do it.
The track attitude will level off at this kink, leading blindly right into the corkscrew (T8). The fastest times will require careful braking and bravery. As you crest this area of the track watch where your car is pointed as it may go light.
I take this corner differently than I did the first time out at LS and now brake hard setting up for seven. Let off and turn long the outside (right side of the track and STAY to the right. I.e. do not track out. I then hit the accelerator a second and brake again for the Corkscrew.

Turn 8 & 8a "The Corkscrew"
Corner 8A &8B "the Corkscrew" left right "S" curve - 50mph then 60mph 3rd gear or 2nd through 8A and short shift to 3 on the "straight" part:
Here it is. What everyone is waiting for. Corners 8A and 8B are the Corkscrew. The key to the Corkscrew is to straighten between A and B. The natural inclination is to use an "S"... don't. Turn through Corner 8A with a moderately late apex and then straighten for a split second aiming for the oak... then turn to a medium to late apex on 8B and use all the track. Then aim for the last oak on the left to brake straight and set up for the dreaded Rainey.
Careful modulation of the throttle will keep gravel in this famous turn from spinning your car. After the sharp downhill your suspension will load up allowing you to feed in the power prior to Rainey Curve (T9).

Corner Nine "The Rainey Curve"
Corner 9 "The Rainey Curve" left hand sweeper - 65mph 3rd gear:
Pointing straight at the last oak get on the brakes for about 100 feet. Then let off and begin the turn. Easy does it on this corner carving out a long sweeper. Hit a VERY late apex on the Rainey and run off using all the track on the right to "track out".
When I drove the track there was a very hazardous concrete gutter on the right side of the track as you come out of the corner. This is exactly where you'd want to track out but if you hit it this became a bit problem. In 2006 the track was redone and happily the gutter was removed.

Corner Ten
Corner 10 right hander - 60-65mph 3rd gear:
Full bore on aiming at the BM#1 for corner 1 and hard brake between 3 and 2 using the BM#1 as the turn in point. hard on the gas here just before the apex. This is surprisingly high speed and you get a lot of room on the left to track out... but you need it.

Corner Eleven
Corner 11 110degree left hander - 35-40mph 2nd gear:
You only get a little while to accelerate because #11 is a b*tch. Brake hard between 4 and 1 and downshift to 2nd. Late apex on this corner OR ELSE!. Track out to the right but geez watch out. That wall is made of concrete.

Start Finish Straight
Start/Finish Straight 2nd to 3rd to 4th 90-95 at the S/F line:
Stay right on the straight 'til about halfway down to the bridge. Then aim for the "AZ" in "MAZDA" This helps straighten out the kink and set up for Corner 1. Right at the bridge is where you'll hit about 90 and shift to 4th. I think next time I'm aiming for the "Z" to keep me more to the right for Corner 1; driving the kink down the middle and turning in to the left to straighten Corner 1 instead.
 
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Since I've shared my setup in the recent WTAC, I think I'll also share my general tuning setups here, I believe this thread can really help a lot of fellow WTACers, tuning is something most of us have a hard time doing, after all. I'll probably update this as I get to experience more in the WTAC. ;)

~The setups you'll see here serve as a "starting point" for your own unique setups. Most of the stock quick tune setups don't give you the benefit of a car's handling, so these base tunes should be enough to get started on lap times.~

My setup is mostly based on other tuning guides and a few on my personal experiences with running random setups that proved good enough. So here goes:

***Stock/Production Cars***
FR Cars
Height: -15/-15
Springs: 4/4
Dampers: 5/5
Toe: 0.00/0.00
Camber: 1.5/1.5
*This setup is aimed at low to mid powered FR cars using S2 or S3 tires.

The ride height is set depending on the track surface. If the track has a fully smooth surface that doesn't have jumps or steep uphill and downhill sections (e.g, Tsukuba) the height could be set down to lowest height.

Springs and dampers co-exist on how their going to affect the car's handling. Stiffer springs allows for sharper turn while harder dampers make sure that the car doesn't produce too much body roll. If the track has low-speed consecutive winding corners that makes weight transition important (e,g. Costa di Amalfi, Nurburgring) feel free to soften the dampers to 3.

I find that Toe angle only comes into play when the car still has a hard time at corner turn-in even with adjusted suspension setups. If the car often understeers even with the slightest throttle response, you can set the front toe to at least -0.20. If you feel the rear of the car doesn't follow through in the corners, set the car's rear toe to at most -0.35. Too much negative toe in the rear can actually make the car easily lose rear traction, a very important factor when driving rear wheel drive cars.

Camber angles improve overall grip of the car, as the vertical axes makes more of the rubber base come in contact with the road. I've never tried going beyond 1.5, since 2.0 is already the stock camber angles of race cars, if you still feel the car's grip is lacking after setting everything else, I recommend having 1.8 as the highest camber settings for maximum grip.

Keep in mind that you are most likely using S2 or S3 tires so the grip is still somewhat limited even with adjustments

FF Cars
Height: -15/-15
Springs: 5/5
Dampers: 5/5
Toe: -0.30/-0.20
Camber: 1.8/1.5

*See FR guide for height explanation*

Springs and dampers play a little differently when it comes to FF cars. Understeer comes around more often with it because of the front wheel bias, and as such, the car needs to be set up sharper than FR cars. This setup will move the handling towards oversteer for FR layouts but with FFs, this will help lessen understeer frequency.

Now Toe angles somehow play a bigger part with FF cars compared to cambers, because even if you don't have to worry about the car sliding around since the front wheels do all the work, the car is more front heavy, which means that the car needs better turn in capability to corner fast. You can actually go all the to -0.50 if the car's having a hard time with tight corners. The negative rear toe is there to make sure the rear follows through in the corner.

The aforementioned lesser camber angle effects on FF layouts applies nearly all of the time, but to maximize the cornering ability of an FF, adjusting to a much greater frontal camber angle is needed for the car to maintain grip as it exits out the corner. I don't really recommend going beyond 1.8 since the might become too twitchy on the straights.

Keep in mind that you are most likely using S2 or S3 tires so understeer will happen no matter how you set up the car. What setups will do is reduce the degree of understeer so that the car still remains controllable.

4WD Cars
Height: -15/-15
Springs: 5/5
Dampers: 6/6
Toe: 0.00/0.00
Camber: 2.0/2.0
*This setup is aimed at 4WD with at most 400hp*

*See FR guide for height explanation*

Since 4WD cars combine the qualities of both FF and FR layouts, the spring and damper setups reflect both layouts. With both oversteer and understeer tendencies, it's best to have a stable ride most of the time when driving 4WD cars. Feel free to adjust the spring settings if you prefer a handling bias. Stiffen the front springs and soften the rear if you want the car to be loose like an FR, while do the reverse if you want it to feel like driving an FF. Either way, the incredible stability of the 4WD will still remain.

For the toe angle setups, I had it setup at neutral because this option is pretty much open ended. If you prefer a handling bias, you can refer to the toe settings used for the other layouts.

Like every other layout, Camber angles will affect the grip of the car, and with this layout hanging in between over and understeer, it's always good to stay in the middle. Not that I treat 4WD grip in the same level as race cars, but you pretty much need all the grip you can get to corner nicely.

When attempting to set up 4WD cars, always take into consideration how you drive the car, as setting the car to work differently with your driving style will result in more difficulty. If your driving triggers more oversteer or understeer, adjust the settings accordingly to counterbalance the handling tendencies.

MR Cars
Height: -15/-15
Springs: 4/4
Dampers: 6/6
Toe: -0.20/0.00
Camber: 1.5/1.8

*See FR guide for height explanation*

Modifying the springs and dampers setups that I used on FR cars led me to a setting that focuses on rear stabilty. Since midship cars have excellent weight balance, the car is easier to drive overall, so instead of improving cornering sharpness, I just aimed for a more stable ride.

Now toe angles need no further elaboration, since MR cars have noticeably more oversteer tendencies than understeer, due to it being a rear wheel drive, I wanted to somehow minimize understeer to the point of only being caused by driver error, since expected oversteer can be controlled.

The Camber angles setup I made for MR cars is a simple variation of that of FR cars. I found that having more grip in the rear when driving midships is a much better experience.

MR cars are still very sensitive even after repeated settings though, so driving ability plays a bigger part than car settings. Repeated driving with MR cars is the best way to build up experience and skill in handling it.

RR Cars
Height: -15/-15
Springs: 4/4
Dampers: 4/4
Toe: 0.00/0.00
Camber: 1.5/1.8

*See FR guide for height explanation*

When it comes to setting up springs and dampers for RR layouts, one thing that always comes to my mind is that the car will oversteer. I don't harden the dampers too much since the weight balance of the car will not really subject the rear to excessive body roll. Springs are in the same line of reason, since the car's heavy at the rear, stiff springs will just increase the tendecies of breaking out into a slide.

In my experience with RR cars, I could tell that the cars were 'tail-happy', so to say. As such, I didn't want to make them 'tail-happier' by adjusting toe angles. If the car had sharper turn-in, the weight transition would be too great and cause the rear to break out even under low stress.

In my personal opinion, I think the RR layout vehicles are as impressive as the MR when it comes to handling, so much so that the same camber angle settings as the MR worked well with it.

I wouldn't go as far as to say that RR layouts are on the same level of stability and handling potential with MR, it's overall potential somewhat lies between MR and 4WD. The entire RR experience varies per driver, so feel free to make the necessary modifications to suit your driving style.


***Race Cars***
JGTC Cars/FR Racing Cars
Aero: 32/56
Height: -5/-5
Springs: 6/6
Dampers: 8/8
Toe: -0.35/-0.25
Camber: 2.5/2.5

It's been a must for me to run F&R aerodynamics at maximum every single time. With the high horsepower and torque output of race cars, you will really need something to keep your tires planted.

I always thought no matter where you're driving a race car, you need to set the ride height to its lowest. Why? Because the car only scrapes the ground after jumps, or when the entire underbody of the car goes over rumble strips.

If you're going to compare the stock springs and dampers settings with this one, you'll see that there's no difference at all. I figured the race cars handle well on their own, untouched. The only times I've changed the spring setups was when I needed the car to be fully stable in all corners, and that only comes by in a few tracks.

Toe angles work a bit differently with race cars, since the stock settings might feel a bit dull, you'd want the car to turn as sharply as possible for the best cornering response. Because of the greater rear downforce, though, you'd also want the rear tires to follow through in high speed corners. For tracks that demand the best cornering response, feel free to set it at -0.50/-0.35.

Camber angles are the great equalizers in race cars, because at stock settings, the car already has a lot of grip, but coupled with positive camber, you get tons of grip. Still, like all other cars, setting it too high will give you negative grip, and you won't want that in a powerful car.

With racing cars, you will definitely be using R1 tires, so remember that even if the car has tons of grip, it still has its limits, so try to find out just how much push can the car handle.

DTM Cars/4WD Race Cars
Aero: 32/56
Height: -5/-5
Springs: 6/6
Dampers: 8/8
Toe: -0.35/-0.35
Camber: 3.0/3.0

*See JGTC guide for aerodynamics and ride height explanation

Like the FR race cars, the springs and dampers setting for 4WD cars remain untouched (I'm not sure if some 4WD racers are set up differently by default, but I think really this settings works best with the layout's balance)

Since 4WD racers have better overall grip than FR ones, setting up negative toe angles on both the front and rear would improve cornering response, at no cost of stability. If you feel that you can control the car even at extreme stress, feel free to use -0.50/-0.50.

The camber angle balance I've worked out with production 4WDs work just the same with race cars, besides, with the near neutral handling of 4WD racers, having more grip helps keep the rubber hugging the road, which you'll really need when pushing hard for time attacks.

While the handling feel may be similar to FR race cars, the handling reaction of the 4WD race cars still depend on the driver. 4WD racers are a good practice for tuning techniques, as the car will give lost of feedback on how it's going to react under certain driving styles and conditions. Take the feel of the car into consideration as you make a set up to suit your needs.

Touring Cars/FF Race Cars
Aero: 19/44
Height: -5/-5
Springs: 6/6
Dampers: 7/7
Toe: -0.35/-0.25
Camber: 2.5/2.0

*See JGTC guide for aerodynamics and ride height explanation

Unlike their production car counterparts, FF racers don't suffer from understeer at sharp corners, most of the understeer comes from mid to high speed corners, so the springs and dampers setting is aimed at improving stability through these long, high speed corners.

Now the toe angles and camber angles are self-explanatory, even if the FF race cars have significantly improved cornering response compared to performance production models, you'd still want it to have 'better' cornering response, and improved grip on the front, which does all the work.

All in all, FF race cars feel more like go-karts than touchy racing machines. The incredible cornering stability can only be found on FF's, so take advantage of this ability when attacking corners. Coupled with R1 tires, setting up the car becomes a much easier task.

Prototypes
Aero: 56/82
Height: -10/-10
Springs: 5/5
Dampers: 6/6
Toe: 0.00/0.00
Camber: 2.5/2.5
*You might need to enable TCS when driving high powered prototypes.*

If I hadn't stressed the importance of aerodynamics in the past guides, I will tell you that you will need all the downforce you can get when driving prototypes. Driving with 650+ hp without the body structure pushing your car down is a very unpleasant experience.

*See JGTC guide for ride height explanation

Now, the springs and dampers settings may look milder than the JGTC and DTM cars, but that's because with the enormous downforce, you won't need stiff springs and hard dampers to corner well. In fact, I think prototype cars corner better under acceleration, so don't hesitate to floor it in a high speed corner.

Because the prototypes are probably the most sensitive cars in the game (bar the Ferrari F2007 and the Formula Gran Turismo) you don't want it to feel like threading a needle by adjusting toe angles to make it more sensitive that it already is. If you want the car to be a bit dull, you can set positive toe to at most +0.20/+0.25.

Even with the extreme downforce, the car can still have improved grip through camber settings, but I wouldn't really recommend going beyond that.

Prototype cars are some of the most challenging cars to drive, extreme dowforce coupled with enormous power needs a lot of practice to control properly. Keep in mind, that even with TCS on, the car still produces wheelspin under stress, so the 'tap-tap' technique is crucial to maintain cornering speed and stability.
 
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I've finally completed the whole guide. :)

I didn't make a tuning guide for Formula cars because I don't have any experience with them at all. I may have taken the F2007 out for a few laps before, but only on stock settings. Tuning Formula cars is a whole different experience, as far as I can tell.
 
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