Harmonic's Garage - Weekly Daily Race Setups

  • Thread starter Harmonic
  • 64 comments
  • 32,206 views
H

Harmonic

113
United States
Farmington, MI
iiHarmonic
iiHarmonic
Hey everyone,

I've turned this thread into a single place where I'll be posting all my setups. I'll link everything I've posted here so far. Enjoy!

Daily Race B - Deep Forest Raceway - Road Cars, 295 HP, 2646 lbs., SH tires
Toyota Celica GT-Four - 1:37.557
Nissan GT-R R33 - 1:36.906
Nissan GT-R R34 - 1:37.141
Ferrari F40 - 1:37.977

Daily Race B - Nurburgring GP - Gr.4, 630 PP, RH tires
Mazda Atenza Gr.4 - 2:00.331
Genesis G70 Gr.4 - 1:58.726
Subaru WRX Gr.4 - 1:58.642

Daily Race C - Daytona International Speedway - Gr.3, 542 HP, 2976 lbs., RH tires
Mazda RX-VISION GT3 Concept - 1:44.226 (1:43.682 by Doodle)
Peugeot VGT Gr.3 - 1:43.858 by Williams_Hydra

Nations Cup - Deep Forest Raceway - Road Cars, 493 HP, 3086 lbs., SS tires
Nissan GT-R NISMO '17 - 1:27.645

Nations Cup - Daytona Road Course - Trucks, 542 HP, 4850 lbs., SS tires
Ford F-150 SVT Raptor '11 - 1:57.857

Tuning Topics
Is your ride height too low?
Is the PP system broken?


______________________________________________________________________________________________________

Daily Race B - Deep Forest Raceway - Toyota Celica GT-Four - 1:37.557 - Tuning Guide​

Hey all, just wanted to post a great car I found for the current daily race B. I think it's the best car now (besides the ridiculously broken L500R), and it'll win just about any race where the L500R doesn't show up. Even then, my total race time is only about 5 seconds off what I can do in the L500R. Let me know what you think and what lap times you can get! I'm running on a DualSense controller currently.

 
Last edited:
Thanks for this, total noob when it comes to tuning and i don't have many credits to waste on cars for sport mode yet. I see a lot of people complaining about tuning being allowed but i think it needs to stay because that's what car racing is all about. Hopefully they'll introduce one BoP race also to balance things out eh?
 
Last edited:
Harmonic
Hey all, just wanted to post a great car I found for the current daily race B. I think it's the best car now (besides the ridiculously broken L500R), and it'll win just about any race where the L500R doesn't show up. Even then, my total race time is only about 5 seconds off what I can do in the L500R. Let me know what you think and what lap times you can get! I'm running on a DualSense controller currently.

Click to expand...

Giving the tune a try now!

Noticed you were number 10 on the WR leaderboard with an R32, nice work.
 
Awesome video many thanks. I learnt a lot.

Please can you do more of these as you experiment with different engine/drive variations.
 
Great video be good for infographics on what you buy initially and the body work.

I tried the setup it’s definitely a lot faster than my 911 however I’m struggling with the handling so can’t beat my 1.41.1 currently :(
 
Last edited:
DeolTheBeast
Giving the tune a try now!

Noticed you were number 10 on the WR leaderboard with an R32, nice work.
Click to expand...
Hope you like it! Ignore that R32 time, though. I just ran that to record a video on a horsepower bug to send to PD so they can fix it.

I do have an R33 in the works, though. I think it can do a 36.9, so I'll post it once I get the lap time.
 
Harmonic
Hope you like it! Ignore that R32 time, though. I just ran that to record a video on a horsepower bug to send to PD so they can fix it.

I do have an R33 in the works, though. I think it can do a 36.9, so I'll post it once I get the lap time.
Click to expand...
It was better than an R34 tune I had previously ... still only at 1.40.5 in qualifying but that was 1 second up on the Skyline. Thanks!

An R33 would be awesome, would be interested in seeing that.

A question, this might be a bug - with either of the front splitters equipped ... the max front downforce available to me is only 100 (not the 160 you have).

The only thing I can think is you have different measurement units on your game but probably not?

Car has all the same mods as yours from the video - widebody + aero parts etc.
 
DeolTheBeast
It was better than an R34 tune I had previously ... still only at 1.40.5 in qualifying but that was 1 second up on the Skyline. Thanks!

An R33 would be awesome, would be interested in seeing that.

A question, this might be a bug - with either of the front splitters equipped ... the max front downforce available to me is only 100 (not the 160 you have).

The only thing I can think is you have different measurement units on your game but probably not?

Car has all the same mods as yours from the video - widebody + aero parts etc.
Click to expand...
Ignore me... for some reason the rear splitter B has to be equipped (I had A previously) for the front downforce to have a higher range of adjustability.

Weird lol
 
DeolTheBeast
It was better than an R34 tune I had previously ... still only at 1.40.5 in qualifying but that was 1 second up on the Skyline. Thanks!

An R33 would be awesome, would be interested in seeing that.

A question, this might be a bug - with either of the front splitters equipped ... the max front downforce available to me is only 100 (not the 160 you have).

The only thing I can think is you have different measurement units on your game but probably not?

Car has all the same mods as yours from the video - widebody + aero parts etc.
Click to expand...
Yep, make sure you have all possible body parts fitted. I have the rear diffuser on as well - sorry if that wasn't clear. I just took it off and it indeed dropped my max aero to 100.
 
Last edited:
Just did a 1.40.2 so happy with that, put traction to 0 takes a bit of time to get used to.

However in the race it feels completely different like the car doesn’t turn? So I race in the 911 and lap times in the Celica
 
DemiseOllie
Just did a 1.40.2 so happy with that, put traction to 0 takes a bit of time to get used to.

However in the race it feels completely different like the car doesn’t turn? So I race in the 911 and lap times in the Celica
Click to expand...
I haven't noticed much difference in feel, but the lap times are definitely slower in the race. Some are guessing that fuel load is minimum in time trial but not in races, but I have nothing to confirm that yet.
 
After finding some interesting behavior with ride height, I believe this setup can suffer from a bit of wheel rub under extreme cornering loads. Raise the front ride height 5 mm or so, and it should alleviate this problem while also increasing high speed stability.
 
Are people doing engine swaps. Tried every possibe combos on GTR nur 02 and my top speed is no where near to the world class ones. Mind boggling
 
Ak23
Are people doing engine swaps. Tried every possibe combos on GTR nur 02 and my top speed is no where near to the world class ones. Mind boggling
Click to expand...

Don't pay any mind to those times - those were run to demonstrate a bug that has since been fixed. There's a video on my channel showing how it worked so the devs could fix it in time for this first patch.
 
I built a Celica on my own prior to seeing this and was able to run 1:39.5s, with a similar engine build. I disagree with your approach and comments on the engine tuning. You didn't say anything completely incorrect, and I want to avoid coming across as a pedant, but I believe it is important to be accurate for anyone planning to extrapolate this experience to other cars.

You said in your video that "as you keep going down in restriction your power curve actually inflates" - this is wrong. Graphically, you are gaining more area under the power curve, but that is due to the axis automatically re-scaling to the peak power number in the pop-up window power curve. You cannot gain power by restricting the engine. However you are absolutely correct, lowering the power restrictor is the proper move (in fact, you would be better served maxing out the ECU output and removing the power entirely with restriction) as you keep all the ability to make torque at lower RPMs. I'm at 295hp and 380 lb-ft of torque.

The same sort of philosophy also applies to engine tuning parts: polished ports and air filters don't net you any gain, as you simply un-do their improvements with the restrictor. You can save this money if doing this build.

Your chassis and aero tuning is wildly different than mine, and likely fixes a lot of the issues I was having. I haven't really dug into the handling part of the platform, I was staunchly focused on the engine build. I am also curious about the differential tuning, I wonder if the base amount of lock in a full custom LSD is higher than that of the stock LSD, meaning that the car won't corner as well. Good job with that. I will be trying your chassis and aero settings later on to see what I get, I was worried about large difference in Natural Frequencies, doesn't really make sense but if it works it works. And the camber angle, no idea why that works. I was stuck in the IRL convention of camber, around 2.5 degrees.

Thank you for sharing your build, I dig it. Smart stuff here.
 

Attachments

  • Celica1.jpg
    Celica1.jpg
    209.2 KB · Views: 34
  • Celica2.jpg
    Celica2.jpg
    178.5 KB · Views: 33
wyans_
You said in your video that "as you keep going down in restriction your power curve actually inflates" - this is wrong. Graphically, you are gaining more area under the power curve, but that is due to the axis automatically re-scaling to the peak power number in the pop-up window power curve. You cannot gain power by restricting the engine. However you are absolutely correct, lowering the power restrictor is the proper move (in fact, you would be better served maxing out the ECU output and removing the power entirely with restriction) as you keep all the ability to make torque at lower RPMs. I'm at 295hp and 380 lb-ft of torque.
Click to expand...
You are completely correct here. When I said that, I tried to give an explanation that made it click for those new to tuning based on how the graph changes. I was referring to increasing the area under the curve (exactly as you said) when I said "inflating", and that's the point I wanted to drive home. I thought it was clear that you weren't gaining power, just achieving closer to max power over a wider RPM range, but I can definitely see the hole in my explanation. If there were numbers or a grid on the graph, it would be easier to explain it correctly for the average person to digest.
wyans_
Your chassis and aero tuning is wildly different than mine, and likely fixes a lot of the issues I was having. I haven't really dug into the handling part of the platform, I was staunchly focused on the engine build. I am also curious about the differential tuning, I wonder if the base amount of lock in a full custom LSD is higher than that of the stock LSD, meaning that the car won't corner as well. Good job with that. I will be trying your chassis and aero settings later on to see what I get, I was worried about large difference in Natural Frequencies, doesn't really make sense but if it works it works. And the camber angle, no idea why that works. I was stuck in the IRL convention of camber, around 2.5 degrees.
Click to expand...
To be honest, a lot of my settings are from trial and error. That's the wonderful thing about virtual racing - A-B testing parts takes seconds, and it's free!

I come from Forza (cue the boos from the crowd... lol), so I'm used to throwing stuff at the wall and seeing what sticks, regardless of how nonsensical it may be. Settings like the ones I used here work in every other racing game I've tried, so I just gave it a shot here, and I liked it. I would expect the natural frequency difference between front and rear to cause some wild oversteer, but it doesn't seem to cause much trouble, if any.

As for camber, maybe the game adds the number from your setup to the base camber on the car's model in-game? I could check a replay to determine that... Either that, or the alignment model is just inaccurate. lol
 
Harmonic
You are completely correct here. When I said that, I tried to give an explanation that made it click for those new to tuning based on how the graph changes. I was referring to increasing the area under the curve (exactly as you said) when I said "inflating", and that's the point I wanted to drive home. I thought it was clear that you weren't gaining power, just achieving closer to max power over a wider RPM range, but I can definitely see the hole in my explanation. If there were numbers or a grid on the graph, it would be easier to explain it correctly for the average person to digest.

To be honest, a lot of my settings are from trial and error. That's the wonderful thing about virtual racing - A-B testing parts takes seconds, and it's free!

I come from Forza (cue the boos from the crowd... lol), so I'm used to throwing stuff at the wall and seeing what sticks, regardless of how nonsensical it may be. Settings like the ones I used here work in every other racing game I've tried, so I just gave it a shot here, and I liked it. I would expect the natural frequency difference between front and rear to cause some wild oversteer, but it doesn't seem to cause much trouble, if any.

As for camber, maybe the game adds the number from your setup to the base camber on the car's model in-game? I could check a replay to determine that... Either that, or the alignment model is just inaccurate. lol
Click to expand...
Great stuff. I never doubted you knew what you were talking about, that's for sure. There are so many layers in the way this data is presented it is easy to mis-represent what is actually going on.

Much of my tuning knowledge comes from iRacing, where things shake out to be close to real life (with obvious exploits, like every other racing game). I never got into tuning in Forza or previous GTs, mostly because I haven't been playing console games for the last 10 years. GT7 has brought me back in, and the tuning is great- especially the parts selection. Things are very obfuscated with their need to normalize so many of the settings across hundreds of cars, so weird numbers make sense.

I really don't like the Natural Frequency designation for the spring rates, and how it is presented. Obviously it makes it much easier for PD to present digestable, standardized adjustments across all cars without resorting to dimensionless values, but it makes tuning feel awkward. A 2~ Hz split in frequency is pretty huge, and would really make for a mess of a car I have to imagine. I suppose pitching convention out the window can be considered, it is a video game after all.
 
i have a setup with 293 hp and 404ft tq. so now im going to try to combine our teo tunes and see what happens currently my setup only does like a 1.39.44 lap time currently
 
Thanks again for your setup. I was in the 1:41s before I saw this post. Then after I was in 1:39 consistently (which is good to have for race pace). After I installed the wide body and restored engine rigidity, I broke into the 1:38:5s. I too also find the alignment somewhat against real world tuning, even playing with slight toe out and 0 toe. What I see the most in your hot lap is the ability to put power down without it coming out and also carrying more speed in and out of T2/T3/T4 and really a big difference with T7 onto back straight with a good 2mph more than what I’m seeing at the check point.
I wonder Harmonic, are you able to consistently run 1:37s?

I’m on a T248 wheel/pedal set. I wonder if it has to do with the DS controller coming back to center to apply throttle.
 
Last edited:
In time trial, I consistently run 37s, but the race seems slower for some reason no matter what car I drive, so it's mid-low 38s there.

One thing that might not be completely obvious is that I make a lot of small countersteer corrections to make it easier to apply throttle. That, and I blip the throttle a couple times mid corner to keep a bit of weight transfer to the rear. Rear grip is lacking in the game for sure, so that's how I get around it.

As for controller vs. wheel, I did find that I needed to return to center more deliberately on wheel for corner exits, which makes sense when you consider how the game filters controller inputs. I ran at minimum FFB sensitivity to make it easier, but I was on a Fanatec CSW 2.5 through a DriveHub, so your wheel strength will probably differ.
 
Previous setups from other threads:
______________________________________________________________________________________________________

Daily Race B - Deep Forest Raceway - R33 GT-R - 1:36.906​

Hey all, I found an even faster car than the Celica for Daily Race B. I'd like to say this is the best non-L500R now, but I'll probably be proven wrong again... lol

This one is over half a second quicker than the Celica, and it shaved about 2 seconds off my total race times. Let me know what lap times you can get - any feedback is appreciated! I'm using the DualSense on this one, too.



______________________________________________________________________________________________________

Daily Race B - Deep Forest Raceway - R34 GT-R - 1:37.141​

I've been seeing a ton of these in online races, so I figured I'd make a tune for one. The car can do a 36, but it's tough... It has slightly less potential than the R33, but it makes up for it with consistency and easy handling. Let me know what lap times you can get - any feedback is appreciated! Lap time was run with the DualSense controller.

 

Daily Race B - Deep Forest Raceway - Ferrari F40 - 1:37.977​

I couldn't resist trying this car when it popped up in the Legend Cars dealership... This car definitely caught some attention in online races, and I've been getting requests on some non-4WD cars, so here's my take on the Ferrari F40. This one took a lot of work, so I hope you all enjoy!

Gr.3 track guides for Daily Race C might be coming soon!

 
Last edited:
I think PD said the races change at irregular intervals, so I'm not sure. I'd recommend buying the car regardless even if you don't use it for this race, but if you don't want to spend the money, I'd just stick with one of the cars I've posted before this one.
 

Daily Race C - Daytona International Speedway - Mazda RX-VISION GT3 Concept - 1:44.226​

It's a new week, and we have new Daily Races to choose from! Here's my first go at making a car for Daily Race C. I'm pretty happy with how this one turned out. Let me know your thoughts!

 
Harmonic

Daily Race C - Daytona International Speedway - Mazda RX-VISION GT3 Concept - 1:44.226​

It's a new week, and we have new Daily Races to choose from! Here's my first go at making a car for Daily Race C. I'm pretty happy with how this one turned out. Let me know your thoughts!

Click to expand...

Thanks for this. Will be giving it a go tonight.

Suggestion for the thread - put a list of all your tunes in the OP with a link to their respective posts. Not a problem scrolling through now, but as you start to get a library going, it will be hard to find stuff.
 
Barra333
Thanks for this. Will be giving it a go tonight.

Suggestion for the thread - put a list of all your tunes in the OP with a link to their respective posts. Not a problem scrolling through now, but as you start to get a library going, it will be hard to find stuff.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I was going to get around to this sooner or later, but I've been juggling a ton of things and forgot.
 
Harmonic

Daily Race C - Daytona International Speedway - Mazda RX-VISION GT3 Concept - 1:44.226​

It's a new week, and we have new Daily Races to choose from! Here's my first go at making a car for Daily Race C. I'm pretty happy with how this one turned out. Let me know your thoughts!

Click to expand...

Got my first win in Daily C with this tune. Thank you!
 

Latest Posts

Back