Have CSR Elite Pedals what is the best lubricant to use

[Special 1]

Just wondering what others opinions are on what lubricant to use, is a dry lubricant best?

 

[Jump_Ace]

Great question, I'd like to know some recommended lubricants too and how to apply them. I've had my pedals a couple years now and have two cats and all I've done so far is take a can of compressed air to them.


Jerome

 

[Special 1]

Great question, I'd like to know some recommended lubricants too and how to apply them. I've had my pedals a couple years now and have two cats and all I've done so far is take a can of compressed air to them.


Jerome

Hope the cats are ok
I have taken apart my pedals but was unsure what lube would be best, as for lubricating it seems straight forward. There was a video about with Thomas from Fanatec showing the process. If I can find it I will post it here.

Edit:

Here we are skip to around 7:15

 

[Special 1]

Anybody have any suggestions or better yet experiences?

 

[Cote Dazur]

My CSR elite pedals are squeaking particularly the clutch pedal. I would be interested in knowing what to do to stop squeaking. All I have found so far is by turning the spring but of course the squeaking comes back after a few minutes

 

[JogoAsobi]

White lithium grease, used it back in the days when I had Fanatec pedals...
...I would periodically tear them down and grease them with it.

 

[novadave]

Fanatec originally used a dry bicycle lube . do not use this as it has had a chemical reaction with some of the components used in these pedals.
The best I have found is a Engine prelube such as STP.
just make sure it is moly based with a very high viscosity so that it will cling to the parts.
all the pedals that I have repaired are using it with excellent results over two to three years of use.
No other lube maintenance has been required after a long period.

 

[novadave]

My CSR elite pedals are squeaking particularly the clutch pedal. I would be interested in knowing what to do to stop squeaking. All I have found so far is by turning the spring but of course the squeaking comes back after a few minutes

Very simple Cote. just add a shim or thin washer at both ends of the springs.
As the springs are being compressed they are going through a twisting motion which eventually will start to wear into the spring seat area. By adding a shim this will permit the shim to remove the friction which is associated with the sound you are hearing.
By just turning the spring you are reseating the coil end to a different position which will temporarily eliminate the sound but will come back soon.

 

[RacerXX]

I just use a synthetic grease and redo that (although nothing has gone wrong / no noises or issues) annually over the Winter. I'm used to off season maintenance lists from the racecar world. No squeaks ever basically.

I also replaced the left most tubular spacer with a spring so that there is some ability to move a bit as the bits may desire. IIRC I also trued up the rest of the spacer tubes on my lathe...they seemed to have been saw-cut and so the ends were not very smooth or square to the sides. I would not suggest something like WD40 as that is mostly intended for water displacement (WD) hence it does not stick around for very long.

 

[eKretz]

Best to use something thick in this instance. White lithium works, as well synthetic grease. Both novadave and RacerXX have made good suggestions. I use molybdenum disulfide assembly paste personally - done once and never had to touch again. Another thing that might help the squeaking would be to either kiss the ends of the spring lightly on a bench grinder (side of the wheel very gently) to flatten them or to add small rubber or nylon, etc. shims under the ends of the spring. (i.e. spring hats).

 

[LeMansAid]

I think the stock springs are flattened. Mine were at least, but I had to flatten a replacement. A nylon washer is indeed a good idea.

 

[mrbasher]

use molybdenum disulfide assembly paste personally - done once and never had to touch again.

I was going to say the same. Moly is amazing stuff. And I like how it smells...

 

[ultimate]

a bit off topic, is CSP V2 worth it if you own already CSR-Elite pedals?

 

[LeMansAid]

a bit off topic, is CSP V2 worth it if you own already CSR-Elite pedals?

Depends how much money you've got really. It'd certainly be an upgrade, with the clutch feel and brake feel being the most notable draws. I know that the rc shock I put on my V1 pedals made a huge difference in regards to feel. A few people have found that they prefer the speed of the simpler clutch on the V2 pedals. Though I'm sure that the majority much prefer the V2 clutch.

Depending on your set up, there might be other areas that could make better use of the money though, since you've already got quite a nice set of pedals there.

 

[ultimate]

thanks, so you mean the only big improvement its the clutch on CSP V2
otherwise its pretty same as CSP V1 and CSR-E

 

[Special 1]

Thanks for the replies guys, I ended up getting the white lithium grease as it was the only one of the above mentioned I could get my hands on around this area 👍

All greased up now but have another problem which is probably caused by not maintaining the pedals since I got them nearly 2 years ago

I have had this problem for a while where it seems I have to put a lot more pressure than I would like to reach full braking. Would this be down to not greasing the foam insert? I have read they can shrink if they dry out and I am guessing this is my problem and why I have to apply more pressure than i would like.

I also experience a big deadzone when braking, I can press the brake about a quarter of the way down before it begins to register. I have the dial set to 10 and the throw adjustment is up to the second hole.

I know something is not right, I have recently installed a new load cell so am guessing that shouldn't be the problem.

Is it just a case of getting a new foam insert?

Any help much appreciated

 

[novadave]

Unfortunately this is one of the nasty side effects of using dry lube.
the lube they used had a tendency to expand the PU Foam insert and this would cause it to stick in the bore.
remove the foam and if the ends are mushroomed then it has become spongy and will need to be replaced.
A little trick I use to fine tune the effectiveness of the foam is to shorten it. By doing this the surface area is less and this will actually increase the response from the pedal as there is less foam to compress. This helps to quicken brake response.
If you do this add a shim of the same thickness as the slice of foam that you removed if not then this would increase the pedal travel. You can even add more shim to compress the foam more than stock to increase the pedal response even further.
Example - cut the foam by 5mm then add a shim of 5mm thickness to compensate. the more you cut the foam the more responsive the brake becomes.

 

[eKretz]

You've got to be careful doing this though, the more foam you remove and the more spacer you add, the further the load cell will be pressed with equal pedal travel. You may get to a point where it is stressed so much that it will break prematurely. They definitely aren't the most sturdy things.

 

[novadave]

Yes like anything in life if you want to break it then it will brake.
So far I have gone as far as cutting 8mm but then backed it off to 5mm as for me personally this seems just right.
I had done this mod back in early 2010 and have never damaged a loadcell yet. This will all depend on what a person like`s or dislike`s.
I personally like a short travel in the brake and with a light application pressure so that I can easily modulate the brake during a race. Maybe it`s just me but out of over 1500 races in the last two years with over 1300 podiums I would say it isn`t me but maybe the setup.

 

[Special 1]

For now it seems that cleaning and greasing has fixed my issue I had with the brake, it now responds as I expect it to which is great. If it ends up being a short term fix then I may give your idea a go

Certainly am a lot happier with the brake now though

 

[LogiForce]

White lithium grease, used it back in the days when I had Fanatec pedals...
...I would periodically tear them down and grease them with it.

I was about to crack open my old can of Duckhams LB10 lithium grease coincidentally. Since it's all weather ball bearing grease I thought it would be good enough, yet thin enough not to cause drag. Unlike white vaseline I used at some point. Your post confirmed it for me, as well as the posts of the rest here.

 

[ultimate]

EDIT: sorry it was the motor of wheel