I can't keep the RUF Yellowbird on the track

  • Thread starter Thread starter jamman39
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What I feel about the 918 is that it's too fast and I've been trying to drive much over my personal limits. I tried it in Silverstone GP and Nordschleife, it's all about breaking and curve start points. You have to be very carefull with dowshifts too. Cars under strong lateral G-Forces bounce from side to side and you have to start to steer and brake when it's settled. It's difficult to feel this in a sim, but of course you all know this better than I do. In real life doesn't seems to be that easy too, remember Paul Walker crash, long curve, experienced driver, losing tail, stepping in the trottle to recover, crashing inside the curve, sad thing.
 
Exactly, this is the point I was trying to make earlier, that this car does not handle like it does in this video, when I drive it. It's as neutral as Switzerland, if not understeery and I couldn't get it to swing around like that if I tried, but if I could it would have to be some pretty drastic, unusual inputs to get it to do that. That's why I asked about track settings but never received an answer. I also noted later that part of the patch was a fix that made track temps affect tire temps.

Something else is happening in the video beyond standard car/track settings.
It's possible that, since I just started playing this game, I messed up something in the tuning without realizing it. Though I thought I was on the default tune.

You know how raising the camber setting in GT6 actually gives you negative camber? Is it like that in AC as well?
trT875g.jpg
 
It's possible that, since I just started playing this game, I messed up something in the tuning without realizing it. Though I thought I was on the default tune.

You know how raising the camber setting in GT6 actually gives you negative camber? Is it like that in AC as well?
trT875g.jpg
Ugh...Kunos really needs to fix these "description boxes" in the Car Setup section. Several of them have whatever you would call the Italian version of Engrish, as you are highlighting.

They mean to make the negative value larger in the sense that if you want more negative camber, make that value -0.9 or -1.0 or -2.0... On the PC we also have a panel that shows us what realtime changes are happening when you adjust those values. If they have something similar on console you should see which way your camber is going when you adjust. I do agree, however, that the wording can be very confusing.

On PC we have to mouse over the parameter we are trying to change and then a description box will pop up. For some reason, some of the parameters don't display any description or information at all! Let's say I have my Ferrari SF15-T in the Pits and I'm about to tune that puppy. I get to the section on "Heave Dampers". I don't know what the heck Heave Dampers are or do. If I mouse over the Bump box I get no description but if I mouse over the Rebound box I do. Then I go to the Suspensions section and I see ARB Front, Wheel Rate L & R (front), Height L & R (front) - so far all is good - then I see Wheel Rate HF. Now, I'm going to assume the HF stands for Heave, but I don't have any idea what that is. The last time I heaved I had consumed a bottle of Bacardi Rum and my head was in a toilet.

Last, but not least...and this one steams me up the most. For some baffling reason they decided not to put "units" on several adjustable parameters. For instance, I'm looking at the same Ferrari SF15-T in the Alignment tab. It shows Camber in degrees - that's fine...I got that. Then it has Toe LF, RF, LR & RR -- but my front toes are both set to 27 and my rear toes are each set to 6. 27 what? 6 what? Because if I look at the real time Car Status my front Toe settings are both approx 0.15 while my rear toe settings are each 0.02.

To make my head spin even more, a lot of mod cars will have Anti-Roll Bar values in Nm (I think...don't quote me) while others, including Kunos, will use the 1-7 settings, for example. I don't even care that they don't put a unit on some of those things, but occasionally the numbers are wildly different in terms of range than the last car you just drove.

Of course, it's not hard to figure out what moving the value up or down does to the object (damper, ARB, Height) but I wish they would just get a little more consistent, especially with the pop-up description boxes.

/end-rant.
 
@PsuPepperoni I just tried the 918 again and i have to agree with you, brakes aren't the best and the car starts to slide quite fast with TC on even. Tried to turn off TC and it was going sideways just like you described.

I'll tweak the setting a bit and see if i can tame her.
 
@PsuPepperoni I just tried the 918 again and i have to agree with you, brakes aren't the best and the car starts to slide quite fast with TC on even. Tried to turn off TC and it was going sideways just like you described.

I'll tweak the setting a bit and see if i can tame her.
I'm going to go for a spin in the 918 right now. I know I wasn't a fan of the default alignment, but I only made minor adjustments. If she get's too lively, I'm bound to lose control! :D
 
Brakes are really bad, to me it feels like you have to stomp them hard before the car slows down enough from speed and then they lock and you go straight on.

Also very twitchy with the weight transfer, not at all stable like you see in any real onboards.
 
@PsuPepperonithe car starts to slide quite fast with TC on even. Tried to turn off TC and it was going sideways just like you described.
I don't think TC should really affect your braking stability anyway, it's more about keeping the engine from overpowering the grip of the tires.

They mean to make the negative value larger in the sense that if you want more negative camber, make that value -0.9 or -1.0 or -2.0... On the PC we also have a panel that shows us what realtime changes are happening when you adjust those values. If they have something similar on console you should see which way your camber is going when you adjust. I do agree, however, that the wording can be very confusing.
👍 Thanks, I figured that was the problem based on my tuning results; I just needed someone to tell me I wasn't crazy. :odd:

Speaking of camber, and to get a little bit back on topic, @jamman39 I just put about half a degree more negative camber on the rear wheels of the Yellowbird and I found it pretty fun to drive even at 100% boost.
 
My bad. I was just thinking when I drove it, I had the biggest problems when braking.
I have to enable ABS otherwise they lock up every time on a hard braking zone, because you need to press the pedal that hard.

I played around with the toe settings and camber a bit, those made the biggest difference. So far i came up with this but it's still a WIP:

ZdOra8W.jpg


Try it and see if you like it. Made the car more stable with me.
 
A nice run in the RUF on a mod track which is much harder to drive than the current laser scanned nordschleife. this was the WR for that combo at the time. setup file in the comments.
enjoy 100% boost!

 
A nice run in the RUF on a mod track which is much harder to drive than the current laser scanned nordschleife. this was the WR for that combo at the time. setup file in the comments.
enjoy 100% boost!


Hmm...I wasn't able to find the setup file anywhere. Perhaps it was deleted? Video was posted almost 2 years ago.
 
I am new to AC and have pretty much just been driving the e30 m3 and yellow bird with 0% boost. It is huge fun like that except for one thing, the gearing sucks. Am I right in thinking that in AC there is no real way to adjust that? Thanks for any help.
 
I am new to AC and have pretty much just been driving the e30 m3 and yellow bird with 0% boost. It is huge fun like that except for one thing, the gearing sucks. Am I right in thinking that in AC there is no real way to adjust that? Thanks for any help.
Welcome! :D Are you playing on PS4/Xbox 1 or PC? You can definitely change the gearing on the Yellowbird. When you are in the Car Setup screen, right before getting out on the track there should be a tab or column or whatever called "GEARS". It will show you what the approximate Maximum Speed is for each gear. On the Yellowbird you can't change individual gear ratios like you can with many race cars. You can change, however, the Final Gear Ratio and if you pay attention it will change the Max Speed value for each gear to reflect the change you just made to that Final Gear.
 
Welcome! :D Are you playing on PS4/Xbox 1 or PC? You can definitely change the gearing on the Yellowbird. When you are in the Car Setup screen, right before getting out on the track there should be a tab or column or whatever called "GEARS". It will show you what the approximate Maximum Speed is for each gear. On the Yellowbird you can't change individual gear ratios like you can with many race cars. You can change, however, the Final Gear Ratio and if you pay attention it will change the Max Speed value for each gear to reflect the change you just made to that Final Gear.
On PC. I have found that but I think it only allowed me to reduce it from a 200mph top to 195. So not a lot of difference. I will take a look and make sure I am not missing anything. Thanks for the reply
 
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