Ibo's Garage - TTRS3GTR

[CAMAROBOY69]

Too bad about the shop waiting until the last minute like that but at least you finally got it back. Sanding is indeed exhausting and time consuming work. Looking forward to seeing the final results after paint.

 

[Ibonibo]

I offically now hate the work mentality in my country.
Went in to discuss the paint job about my car.

The shop owner says : not under 10K.

I laughed him in the face, he can be happy I didn't spit him in the face.

I'm still missing words , still in shock. I expected 2k. 3kmax.

This is bat-poop insane.

Looking to get the car out again asap. Future plans, no idea

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

I offically now hate the work mentality in my country.
Went in to discuss the paint job about my car.

The shop owner says : not under 10K.

I laughed him in the face, he can be happy I didn't spit him in the face.

I'm still missing words , still in shock. I expected 2k. 3kmax.

This is bat-poop insane.

Looking to get the car out again asap. Future plans, no idea

WTF? $10,000 even after YOU did all the sanding and prep work? You have to be kidding me!! Yes that's beyond insulting. Is it the same place that did the bead blasting or is that some other place? 🤬 those people.

You seriously have the knowledge to be able to paint the car yourself for around $500.00-$1,500.00 including primer, base coat, and clear coat. As great of a job that you did with the plastic dip, painting base coat clear coat would be easily doable by yourself. You could easily do an incredible job in your own garage all yourself. I painted cars for MANY years so if you need any help or advice, let me know.

 

[Ibonibo]

^I talked to my dad, as I feel a bit helpless with the whole situation. He said the same thing. With my attention to detail, I should be able to get a fairly decent job out of it.

And it doesn't stop here.

An hour ago, I got a call from my GTR tuner. I expected the body to be kind of bad, but it was hard to notice with all the dust and dirt on it when we got it out.
He had a body shop inspect the car.
They could do patchwork on it, but the result would never satisfy me. And to do the whole body, eliminate all rust, conservation of the chassis and underbody. Around 9k too. But I think that is kind of justifiable on such a car, it is worth way more than the S3. And it will be better than it left the factory. It's a complete restoration, not just a paintjob.

I, for sure don't have the money for both. People often think I am wealthy or make a lot of money, which is not the case. I live, eat, breath for my car and deny myself of a hell of a lot to be able to own and drive those cars.

Now S3 vs GTR. It's definitely the GTR that wins, but I just love my S3. Had so much fun with it and in it. Too many memories to just scrap it off.

Stuck between a rock and a hard place.

The good thing is, the GTR is not in a hurry. The guy understands, and I can let the GTR sit at his place as long as it needs. He has no problem with that. The guy is really awesome.

I gues letting pass some days, sleep over it will help me forge a wise decision.

For now, I tend to go : S3 myself and pour the money into the GTR.

I feel like this at the moment though:

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

^I talked to my dad, as I feel a bit helpless with the whole situation. He said the same thing. With my attention to detail, I should be able to get a fairly decent perfect job out of it.

I have watched your work from the beginning and trust me, with your attention to detail, your patience, and your skill level, you WILL nail it if you paint the S3 yourself. And it will be a heck of a lot more rewarding. PLUS you can finish the other 10% sanding you didn't get complete. So then at that point you can get the S3 finished 100% like you want. You have already completed the hardest part with all the sanding and prep work. All that is left is primer, base coat, and clear coat. Again you should be able to do it yourself in your garage for about $500.00-$1,500.00.

The most important thing right now is to get primer on the S3 asap! All that bare metal WILL start to obtain surface rust and needs to be stopped or you will have to sand the entire car all over again.

 

[Ibonibo]

^Thanks @CAMAROBOY69 for the flowers. Goes down like butter.

After some thinking, letting the shock fade,... I will go down that road, and put the car budget into the GTR. I now had an extensive talk with my GTR guy.
I explained my situation and all. Very nice guy. In the few months I know him, he became more a buddy than just another CEO that wants my money.

Normally tomorrow the truck from the company I work will be free for an hour, so I can take the S3 out again. Then it goes into a stock shed the company has, and as we stop working in two weeks, I got the shed granted to work in and spray my car in it.
Huge Kudos for my boss

If I need your advice Camaroboy, I sure be asking. Thanks a lot. That coming from a painter is a huge 👍

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

@Ibonibo
Np and that is all excellent news! Feel free to shoot me a PM anytime you need any suggestions or advice. As I am sure you are aware, that "shed" will need ventilation for you to paint in there. This is also something we can discuss more via PM.

Really looking forward to seeing the S3 paint project progress. You are going to be so happy after you paint this car yourself. It truly is an unexplainable and very rewarding experience. Like a rite of passage as a man.

 

[Ibonibo]

@CAMAROBOY69 we can discuss here, or shoot me a PM about more specific stuff.
Some poeple might take some advice from my mistakes

Here I was given this 2 "industrial" fans. Not enough to put a big room under underpressure, but should move a lot of air.

Sadly, renting a painter cabin doesn't exist here, and to do it a few 100 miles away is not worththe hassle. And cost more money too again.

The car isn't mostly down to the metal. As I sanded a lot per hand, most metal parts still have the original galvanistation or stock paint layers on it, which should be a good base.

The hood is the most exposed but its made from alu.. And the parts that I exposed last year during sanding, I covered that with a zinc spray. Didn't start rusting even after a year. So I think I go over the whole metal parts once it's properly sanded with zinc spray, to give it a proper corrossion protection. Then prime/filler it. Working in small steps, first the attached parts and then the whole body so I get a bit more experience when tackling the big body shell.

And I probably start soonish. As soon as the car is back. Night shifts. And then the holidays.

As for your question above that I missed, no not the same shop that mediablasted. I passed there this morning asking them for a price, just to see the difference...

 

[motortrend]

I offically now hate the work mentality in my country.
Went in to discuss the paint job about my car.

The shop owner says : not under 10K.

I laughed him in the face, he can be happy I didn't spit him in the face.

I'm still missing words , still in shock. I expected 2k. 3kmax.

This is bat-poop insane.

Looking to get the car out again asap. Future plans, no idea

WOW. anything over 3K no matter how special the paint on a car that is disassembled and sanded is more than insane

 

[Turtle]

Not under 10,000? Were you planning to plate the car gold? That's complete madness! Sorry you're in such a predicament. My dad painted cars for a long time, so I could ask for his advice if it was needed, but I think CAMAROBOY69 would probably be of more help to you, since you'll get a much more immediate response.

 

[Ibonibo]

No special paint @motortrend. A basic metallic paint. No multilayer. Paint that cost 19.99€/litre.

Thanks @GTTurtle

I'm eager to see the price point of the shop that mediablasted it. They are still pondering how much to ask.

But either way, I am doing it myself. I will be sure no rust is left, no fat from fingerprints is on the car before the spraying, no damaged parts are installed, no screws are overturned, no rusted screws are bolted in...

So a 2-3 small questions:
1. Painting aluminum takes a special primer?
I know the plastic does and need elastic stuff in the paint to not crack.

2. What colour is easy, I guess white, but is an other colour than black harder than white? Like the blues or green?
Is it the hue (dark/light) that makes a colour pop out the imperfections?

3. On the primer. Should I go primer than filler road. Or A special primer that acts also as filler? The shop I will order add doesn't sell zinc-cromatic primer anymore, due to health and enviroment, but I still can get it. It safer to patch the bare metal first with that.

Also the car is back, not at my place anymore. Already in a safe place, 100m away from where I will paint. I don't even need to take a publc road (as the car is not registered at the moment).

Compressor and paint gun will normally be provided to me at no cost


I also take answers via PM @CAMAROBOY69 I will Pm you some more detailed question as I get closer. For now, I still have some prep work to do.

Also the whole idea with laminating some exterior parts in carbon falls flat. I still can do that down the road. But at the moment it will be too expensive, as the GTR needs way more love than envisioned, and that car will get it.
It was an easy choice, economiclly. S3 worth with intact paint = 7000€
GTR with restored body = 30 000€

After yesterday talk with the GTR guy, we will do a complete und utter restoration on the GTR Body. Engine out and stuff.
I take the engine out not mainly because paint, but in order to change the oil pump in it it needs to get out, And I want to change the oil pump, because longetivity, so that fits in with the restoration.
I still don't know when exactly I can afford that, as I will be costly. Now do I keep the white on the GTR or go for the yellow???

 

[Nish]

we can discuss here, or shoot me a PM about more specific stuff.
Some poeple might take some advice from my mistakes

I'd appreciate this as I'd love to learn things (as I already have) seeing the process between two people I respect a fair amount on this forum.

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

@CAMAROBOY69 we can discuss here, or shoot me a PM about more specific stuff.
Some poeple might take some advice from my mistakes

Here I was given this 2 "industrial" fans. Not enough to put a big room under underpressure, but should move a lot of air.

Sadly, renting a painter cabin doesn't exist here, and to do it a few 100 miles away is not worththe hassle. And cost more money too again.

The car isn't mostly down to the metal. As I sanded a lot per hand, most metal parts still have the original galvanistation or stock paint layers on it, which should be a good base.

The hood is the most exposed but its made from alu.. And the parts that I exposed last year during sanding, I covered that with a zinc spray. Didn't start rusting even after a year. So I think I go over the whole metal parts once it's properly sanded with zinc spray, to give it a proper corrossion protection. Then prime/filler it. Working in small steps, first the attached parts and then the whole body so I get a bit more experience when tackling the big body shell.

And I probably start soonish. As soon as the car is back. Night shifts. And then the holidays.

As for your question above that I missed, no not the same shop that mediablasted. I passed there this morning asking them for a price, just to see the difference...

OH dang I am so sorry I missed the @ tag somehow!! I also forgot my PM is set up to friends only so if you sent me a PM and I missed it, sorry again.

Yes those 2 fans are perfect. The fan I have is almost identical to the top fan you posted. Its similar to the blower motor that is in most household furnaces. Use 1 fan to blow fresh air in, and use the other fan to blow the paint / dirty air out.

You are on the right track with the coverage of the metal, plastic, and the other surfaces. Even the aluminum you will want covered asap because it will start to oxidize. As long as it doesn't come in contact with any moisture you should be okay for a while.

I would also recommend picking up some furnace filters to set onto the "intake" of the fans. It will prevent dust or paint from going into the blower motor and prevent dust / paint from circulating around the car. You can get these at any local store including walmart, target, Meijer, just about anywhere.

Don't forget the paint mask with extra charcoals. Make sure you don't have a beard or any access facial hair or the mask wont seal properly.

I will send you a PM so we can discuss more about the paint process.

 

[Ibonibo]

Thanks.

The mask I have already from the plastidip job. Class B mask I think. It has two filters on both side, one particle, one gas. It's not a 3m. I will take a pic later on.

That my fans are the right one or at least acceptable is a huge relief. As important as getting the car back on the road, health and safety are top priorities.

I have not touched the car since it got back. Simply no time beeing in the last week of work before the holidays, which I started today while still being available for the company the next days.

I started to get all my stuff to the place the car is at. And will start sooner than later to work on it.

I keep this updated as work goes on. YOu know it from last year, nearly daily pics and updates

 

[Ibonibo]

So this is my free gun I will be using:

Needs a cleaning as it's not clean enough for my taste but it should do the job. Right? Compressor is also already there Should be more than enough, can do 8 bar. Need only 2....

The mask:

This is the big shed I could paint in, only problem is it's near a creek. So increased humidity, which is the lesser problem. Bigger is the mass of flying insects. And they do love the smell of paint....

This is where the car is at the moment. I will sand the car here, and am allowed to also paint the car in this spot if I want. I just have some thinkering to do with airflow during paint if I would paint here.

(The big element in front of the car can be taken out, there is an identical besides it, so it opens the room quite a bit to fresh air.

Opinions? Thaughts? Recommendations?

Normally tomorrow I should have all my stuff transported down there, and then I can start sanding, cleaning, preping the room,.....

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Shed / barn is perfect. Much larger than I expected. Very nice. When you said "shed" I pictured something MUCH smaller.

EDIT: Air compressor should be good just make sure there is some sort of water regulator in between the gun and the compressor no water gets into your paint.

Paint mask is perfect.

Paint gun is similar to one of the guns I have. I have a top loader and an older bottom loader. Just make sure the screen is not plugged and as you said make sure it is cleaned very well. Air pressure will usually range from 30-45. You can experiment with that.

As for the shed I would sand where it is at and all the suggestions I sent in the PM.

After your final sanding preparation I would get a large roll of plastic and basically plastic off a painting booth. It will look like a scene from Dexter.

This will basically block off insects, humidity, debris, and prevent as much dust from coming in as possible. Allow an area in your Dexter tent for the air intake and air exhaust completely apart from each other.

The plastic tent will look something like this as an example. Again this will be your final step before you start painting the primer, base coat / clear coat. The plastic also works as a dust magnet. You can also test your spray pattern on the side of the plastic before spraying the car. The floor looks very dirty so you might even want to put plastic down on the floor before you paint then put the car back in. Keep in mind you will be dragging the hose around with you and if there is dirt on the floor, it will end up in your paint.

Ignore the bars. Just hang the plastic accordingly.

OHHH also for lighting if you get in a bind with that, get some rope lighting you can run around the car. You will want light on the lower part of the car as you are spraying. If you only have light up top it will be a pain to see while painting. You NEED some sort of side and back lighting for sure.

 

[Ibonibo]

For the lightning, I have a workbud that comes still down and attach a few more lights around the car and install some more sockets. Plus I have some mobiles ones (the big fat halogen 500W Construction style lamps, and small leds ones).

Plastic Dexter style decoration is also coming

Well yesterday, wanted to start, call = work. SO I only cleaned the room for an hour yesterday. Today I gonna get a bit more work done on it. I will really start today.

So I got the water barrier, filter, but I think there are better ones, that will keep water and oil out of the system?
I will look for that on monday.



EDIT : End of shift

Took the hood for a good beating Sanded it down. Sanded it down really good.

Smooth as .... Only the crests need some more attention. Otherwise it is flat, smooth. I feel no difference at all anymore. If anything is still in, the filler layer should take care of it. Tomorrow I finish it up, a quick sanding tour on the inner side. That would be then one piece down.

Next are the fenders:

Inner side had quite some rust bubbles. Either a Audi weak spot, or again a duck up by the last painter. Just started getting the rust off.
Now here I have some questions:
I need to sand the whole inner part? Because wax, paint not sticking,...... At least get all the wax out, so I could plaster the inner with paint. And then later on with wax again.

How far do I need to sand the rust down? to blank metal (no rust particle)? Or could I use a "rust be gone" product, that stops, transforms rust?

I will probably need to do all for wheel arches like that and the sill region...

So any recommendations for a good product. I have the zinc spray, but it's for bare metal, not to stop rust. Hammerit?
Or sand it down till all rust particles are gone??

And this is one of my little dust nests. There is so much dirt in the room (normal for a room in construction ) I will give it a few goes everyday, so I remove as much dust as possible till I start painting.

On the room:

If I paint in the small room, I could make it like this, easy to tape off. Less dirt on the ceiling, no insects. I can attach hooks in the ceiling in order to hang up doors, bumpers ,... the lighter stuff.

Fan 1= smaller one, blows air out. Fan 2 = street side, big fan, sucks a lot ... of air in.

On the H-beams I could use some support poles (the construction ones, very sturdy) block them between the floor and beam and then put some struts in the holes of the poles and hang the heavier parts like the hood und trunk there. Or directly on the H Beam.

(my drawing might not be 100% accurate in proportions and dimensions )

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

For the lightning, I have a workbud that comes still down and attach a few more lights around the car and install some more sockets. Plus I have some mobiles ones (the big fat halogen 500W Construction style lamps, and small leds ones).

Plastic Dexter style decoration is also coming

Well yesterday, wanted to start, call = work. SO I only cleaned the room for an hour yesterday. Today I gonna get a bit more work done on it. I will really start today.

So I got the water barrier, filter, but I think there are better ones, that will keep water and oil out of the system?
I will look for that on monday.



EDIT : End of shift

Took the hood for a good beating Sanded it down. Sanded it down really good.

Smooth as .... Only the crests need some more attention. Otherwise it is flat, smooth. I feel no difference at all anymore. If anything is still in, the filler layer should take care of it. Tomorrow I finish it up, a quick sanding tour on the inner side. That would be then one piece down.

Next are the fenders:

Inner side had quite some rust bubbles. Either a Audi weak spot, or again a duck up by the last painter. Just started getting the rust off.
Now here I have some questions:
I need to sand the whole inner part? Because wax, paint not sticking,...... At least get all the wax out, so I could plaster the inner with paint. And then later on with wax again.

How far do I need to sand the rust down? to blank metal (no rust particle)? Or could I use a "rust be gone" product, that stops, transforms rust?

I will probably need to do all for wheel arches like that and the sill region...

So any recommendations for a good product. I have the zinc spray, but it's for bare metal, not to stop rust. Hammerit?
Or sand it down till all rust particles are gone??

And this is one of my little dust nests. There is so much dirt in the room (normal for a room in construction ) I will give it a few goes everyday, so I remove as much dust as possible till I start painting.

On the room:

If I paint in the small room, I could make it like this, easy to tape off. Less dirt on the ceiling, no insects. I can attach hooks in the ceiling in order to hang up doors, bumpers ,... the lighter stuff.

Fan 1= smaller one, blows air out. Fan 2 = street side, big fan, sucks a lot ... of air in.

On the H-beams I could use some support poles (the construction ones, very sturdy) block them between the floor and beam and then put some struts in the holes of the poles and hang the heavier parts like the hood und trunk there. Or directly on the H Beam.

(my drawing might not be 100% accurate in proportions and dimensions )

You are on the right track for sure. Everything is looking great so far. That water filter should work just make sure the filter inside of it is clean. Also make sure to drain the water from the bottom.

You do need to remove all the rust. There is no magic spray that stops rust no matter what they say. You need to remove it. You could even use a wire wheel to help get the rust out that the sandpaper wont reach. If some of the holes are pitted you could use a small amount of fiberglass on the holes. Apply this directly to bare metal.

Bondo-Glass. This already has the fiberglass shards mixed in. So all you need to do is apply the hardener and then wipe onto the surface. Very easy to use. This stuff works very well directly applied to bare metal. And it is 100% waterproof. Unlike regular Bondo.


You will want to remove all grease, oil, dirt from the fender lips for sure so you can paint them properly. When it comes to the inner part of the fender wells, it is up to you. I personally would just undercoat those sections to help protect from rock chips, debris. So the amount of effort you put into those is up to you. If you undercoat the inner fender wells you will not have to sand. Just use a really good degreaser to remove as much wax and residue as possible.

The room layout looks really good. If Fan 2 is blowing in too much air, you could cover half of it with plastic to restrict the air flow. Everything else with the room layout looks fantastic. I like the idea of the hooks for hanging the Dexter plastic.

 

[Ibonibo]

^I have fiberglass bondo and aluminium bondo. I prefer the alu one. Don't know why.

The hooks are not to attach the Dexter covers , those I gonna tape on, the hooks are to attach the bumpers, fenders,... on them hanging on a wire.

I always doubted those rust converters

Though they get used a lot, I prefer no, absolutly no rust. Keeps the mind clear

This is the second half of the room, non preped.

If you don't have the musclea mass or man power to move 300pounds of bulky wood. Improvise:

Room sorted

Lots of dust, sand

Galvanised

That inner lip of the fender has a very narrow V shape. So hard to get any tool in. And I have different heads to brush it, but it hardly gets in.... I just put spray on at night so if I wouldn't have time for a day to work on it, it isn't covered in light rust again,....

Luckily the second fender does not look to have this massive work needed. Thank god.

I have no idea how it could become that rusty, as it's a completly galavanized part. Could it be that it was scratched on the "body parts holders" during painting???

Sills need rust removal too, but more accessible. I just hope the rear fenders are okay, Otherwise it will be a lot of work.

On the paint make, I will probably go with MIPA.
A good 2k epoxy primer.
Now should I lay down layer, sand, another layer. Or layer, cure, layer, sand???

Then maybe another filler layer if needed.

Then base coat, color layer. (Green?)

Then a good 2k HS clear coat. Probably going with an intermediate sand. So 3-4 layers of cc, sanding the orange peel off (or just straitening it out). Then an other few layers of cc, then sand and polish.

Will go in the shop tomorrow to order all the paint stuff....

So this summarize the last 2 days. Now I just stopped working, now going to work a bit on the S3, but really tired, so probably not a really long shift...

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

^I have fiberglass bondo and aluminium bondo. I prefer the alu one. Don't know why.

The hooks are not to attach the Dexter covers , those I gonna tape on, the hooks are to attach the bumpers, fenders,... on them hanging on a wire.

I always doubted those rust converters

Though they get used a lot, I prefer no, absolutly no rust. Keeps the mind clear

This is the second half of the room, non preped.

If you don't have the musclea mass or man power to move 300pounds of bulky wood. Improvise:

Room sorted

Lots of dust, sand

Galvanised

That inner lip of the fender has a very narrow V shape. So hard to get any tool in. And I have different heads to brush it, but it hardly gets in.... I just put spray on at night so if I wouldn't have time for a day to work on it, it isn't covered in light rust again,....

Luckily the second fender does not look to have this massive work needed. Thank god.

I have no idea how it could become that rusty, as it's a completly galavanized part. Could it be that it was scratched on the "body parts holders" during painting???

Sills need rust removal too, but more accessible. I just hope the rear fenders are okay, Otherwise it will be a lot of work.

On the paint make, I will probably go with MIPA.
A good 2k epoxy primer.
Now should I lay down layer, sand, another layer. Or layer, cure, layer, sand???

Then maybe another filler layer if needed.

Then base coat, color layer. (Green?)

Then a good 2k HS clear coat. Probably going with an intermediate sand. So 3-4 layers of cc, sanding the orange peel off (or just straitening it out). Then an other few layers of cc, then sand and polish.

Will go in the shop tomorrow to order all the paint stuff....

So this summarize the last 2 days. Now I just stopped working, now going to work a bit on the S3, but really tired, so probably not a really long shift...

Making excellent progress.

When it comes to the hard to reach rust, something as simple as these should do the job. They go into a drill and they are only a few dollars.

The coating on the galvanized parts does wear off over time. Even stainless steel rusts over time. Especially if it is in an area that gets any dirt or moisture build up like those fender lips. This is why I say over and over again to make sure to wash cars somewhere with an underbody spray especially if a car is driven in the winter. Or if you wash by hand make sure to hit these areas very well. I would also put undercoating on those areas.

We discussed the paint and clear via PM and looks like you are all set with that now.

When it comes to the primer and sanding, you can lay on several light layers thick with 5-10 minutes of dry time in between. If you use the epoxy primer keep in mind that it has a longer dry time and is not as easy to sand as the other primers. BUT epoxy primer is 100% water proof unlike other primers. My 69 Camaro has been in epoxy primer for over 12 years and still looks great with little to no signs of rust from the exposed elements.

So yes spray several coats with 5-10 minutes in between then let dry overnight. Sand and touch up any spots, dents, or imperfections. After that another 3-4 coats. If everything looks perfect after you sand again, then you are ready for base coat clear coat.

Just keep in mind the very last coat of primer you use before paint MUST all be the same color. You don't want different colors or spots around the car or they will effect the appearance of the paint when you are finished.

 

[Ibonibo]

@CAMAROBOY69 for all the explaining, helping and taking time to write it down for me. Really big tumb up. Thank you!

Found a better barrier, water, oil, filter 👍

I have those discs, but even with those I can't reach everywhere do to the V. Either the big ones are too thick, and the smaller one which are narrow and therefor should reach, are too small to get in the last gap. But....

I bought these now: really small, should do the trick hopefully

And some big scotch bright pad for the sills.

On the primer, I will go the epoxy road, as you say, it's water repellant, and really good. The time sacrifice to let it cure completely doesn't bother me. Quality needs time

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Np for the help. So fun watching someone prepping for paint. I love that feeling.

That water / oil filter is excellent!! Top notch!

Those little "Dremel" bits should do the job for sure to get into the tiny spots.

The scotch brite pads work wonderful too.

Since you are going with epoxy primer make sure you go with light coats and take your time. Any excess orange peel or any runs will be a bit more difficult to remove than the other primer I was talking about. Also this might surprise you but when the epoxy primer is dry it, it actually has a shine to it. That will help to locate imperfections.

Getting even more exciting. You are getting closer and closer. The funny part is if you use the grey epoxy primer to spray on your entire car it will look like my 69 Camaro.

 

[Ibonibo]

Thanks.

Yeah dremel is excellent for such tiny hard to get spots. I thaught using it on the driller, but since you reminded me of the dremel, it's much better

On the Scotch pads, there were red ones and blue. Is one better? More gritty?

Yeah I gonna take my time, and do thin coats, more layers, but finer. 👍 For locating imperfections I also have the black ink, powder? to sand imperfection out/in...

On the epoxy, what if I sand it down lightly and use a filler afterwards to get a really clean surface, as fillers are dead on easy to sand down? Also I probably have more choice in filler colours than on epoxy primer?? Or total overkill? Do 2K fillers absorb water?

👍

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Thanks.

Yeah dremel is excellent for such tiny hard to get spots. I thaught using it on the driller, but since you reminded me of the dremel, it's much better

On the Scotch pads, there were red ones and blue. Is one better? More gritty?

Yeah I gonna take my time, and do thin coats, more layers, but finer. 👍 For locating imperfections I also have the black ink, powder? to sand imperfection out/in...

On the epoxy, what if I sand it down lightly and use a filler afterwards to get a really clean surface, as fillers are dead on easy to sand down? Also I probably have more choice in filler colours than on epoxy primer?? Or total overkill? Do 2K fillers absorb water?

👍

Scotch pads vary greatly. You will just have to experiment to see what works best for you. Yes some are different grits.

Yes using spot filler is ideal between coats because as you said its easier and quicker to sand down. Filler color wont matter. Just use any color you want and again, always wet sand to cut down on dust. No matter what filler you use, just make sure your very last few coats of primer cover the entire car all the same exact color. Primer MUST be the last layer before the base coat. No visible spot putty, no bare metal. All primer. So make sure that last layer covers everything. Also make sure you have enough primer to allow one last final light sand before the base coat. Once that is wet sanded and all washed down. Let it set over night to dry.

Also make sure you use an air compressor around the car on a regular basis to remove extra debris or dust that accumulates. Because as you know, when you spray with the gun air pressure is coming out and will knock any dust or debris loose right into your paint. Also blow from every different angle.

Then tack cloth the entire car and get ready for the base / clear. Tack cloth the car a few minutes before you spray the base coat. The tack cloth will feel a little sticky but works amazing for getting any last minute dust. Wipe the cloth gently don't put pressure onto the car. They are also very cheap so don't be afraid to open several of them to wipe down your car. You can even tack cloth the floor, your clothes, the air hoses, your hair, everything.

Don't wear any loose clothing or articles on you that could dangle or move into the paint. Don't allow yourself to sweat into the paint either.

Hopefully this information is also helping others.

 

[Ibonibo]

Yeah I am passing everyday through the whole room in order to remove as much dust as possible. And before painting, gonna wet the floor slightly.

Well ****.

I returned, and said myself I gonna finish that fender even if it goes into the night. Well that falls flat:

Broke through while getting the rest of the rust out. It had eaten further in than expected
On the second pic, the black dot in the middle the same thing. Is going to be a hole if I keep going or even if I sand from the exterior side now.
2 holes = new part (200 bucks ) It ain't massive, but it all adds up....

But I thoughly inspected the other side. That one is totally fine. Thank the car gods.

I really really hope the rear fenders have no rust. Otherwise... pff

Well the shopping list for tomorrow got longer

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Welcome to the world of bodywork. Especially metal.

This is EXACTLY why it is always wise to remove ALL rust. Just in case the rust has cut all the way through. It is also why rust stopping "sprays" do not work at all. This is actually great news you found it now. Because in 2-3 years that would have be very bad news for your new paint job.

You don't need a new part just because of a couple tiny holes. I am sure someone you know has a welder. All you need to do is patch the tiny holes and you are good to go. Just make sure you clean up all the rust and check for holes. Another easy way to check to see if the rust goes all the way through is to get a sharp object and press on the areas where the rust is at. If you press through, then obviously the metal is too weak and needs to be patched. I have a designated screw driver that is sharpened to a sharp point. If it pushes through, metal gets replaced.

Good luck with the rear quarter panels. If the front fenders have rust, more than likely so do the rear quarter panels. Just keep taking your time and remove ALL rust you see. And check for any weak spots or holes where the rust is at.

If you do find a lot more holes that you are able to push through then yes you might have to get new part(s) if you don't know anyone that can weld for you.


Also yes wetting the floor slightly before the paintwork is a good idea. I would find some sort of misting bottle. Oh also if you have been wet sanding, there should be plenty of moisture already on the floor.

 

[Ibonibo]

Yeah

Well I looked on the rear side, it would mean welding 4-6 spots. Plus I have still no idea how badly it is on the lip. I simply can't justify putting all that time in one fender alone. I need to keep my inmind timetable a bit, otherwise I not gonna finish in time.
I ordered a new one today. Peace of mind. No rust, no worries.

I tested the scotch pad today. Marvellous 👍 Strips to paint and rust with no problem.
This will be really useful for the sills. Though I might need some more pads

Lost sooo much time today.
Went this morning to order the paint. Guy only there after 1400. So returned. 1 hour lost.
Went to order the fender, discussing with the parts dealer about paints. 1 hour gone.
Returning to order paint. Arguing with the guy about paint. him getting all the stuff out of stock. Not registered in the PC,.... Till I had my paint 2 hours gone.

And I only have the 2k HS acrylic filler (plus hardener& thinner) and 2k HS CC (+hardener & thinner).

Then he calculates the price for emarld green 7 liters (2gallons+-). 700 bucks. WTF!
I smiled and declined.

Went home. Pc 10 minutes. Ordered the primer and colour (mercedes Benz Designo Blue, it's somewhere on the pages back on a pic) all for 300 bucks. Should have ordered all through the magic of wizard internet.

Then went back to the car where my workbud waited to get some electrical stuff sorted. Well the big fan, we lost an hour on it, trying to get it to work. Not a noise, no breeze, nothing. Probably dead. Now I am sourcing to find a second one. Worst case I take multiple household fans for blowing the air out, and the industrial for in.
He didn't have any spare lamps so we only installed a few sockets. I have construction lamps in mass. They will need to do the trick....

Then I worked for a good 2 hours on the car and called it a day. Tomorrow the car gets all my attention alone.

AS I can do alone the car tomorrow, I should if it goes according to plan finally finalize the hood, driver fender. After that I gonna perp some of the plastic stuff.
I desperately need a positive advancement in the car that I can see.

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

That's just how it goes. Hopefully you don't have a real tight timeline in case you run into something else. Did you check the rear quarters yet? If the front fender had holes I will be surprised if the rear quarters are fine.

The regular household fans will work fine. No need to worry too much about that. Just make sure you put the "furnace" type filters on them as I suggested. The filters are only a couple dollars. You need one on the "input" fan for sure. Otherwise you will just suck in more dust and bugs.

 

[Ibonibo]

Yeah, I am really eager to really start on the car. Time shouldn't be an issue, but if I lose 4 days on a fender alone, it's too much. Because like you said, there may be more. Rear quarters are not exchangable, so if I need time it's there and the sills. And that time lost is calculated in, to some extend. Not the front. I hope the pass. front fender rusted due to mishandling or something. As the doors and the other fender is totally fine. I hope the rear and sills is done quickly though as I would love to have some actual holidays, not working

I quick checked the rear, it seems okay, but tomorrow I lay down and take a deeper look.

So I guess we'll see tomorrow how screwed I am

Either way, I'm gaining experience. That's something, right?

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Yes you are gaining experience and now you know the problem areas that will require preventative maintenance on all your vehicles so rust never shows up again. Same with ALL vehicles. All those hard to reach areas always need to be cleaned especially if a vehicle is in a location with a winter climate.