It will.
Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel
- Thread starter timekiller001
- 5,683 comments
- 979,444 views
- 171
- Lyon/Rhône Alpes/France
- NicoGmbh
- 123
- United States
@LOGI_Rich
Hey...I'm really tempted to add some preload to my brake pedal. I know it's a popular fix that many swear by...my question is.
How worried should we be of damaging the casing or the load cell. I know you guys always insist on the foam piece last to avoid damage...could you add a little clarity on this...the unit seems robust enough.
If the Answer is wait until the next update but you can't give details yet... thats works too
Hey...I'm really tempted to add some preload to my brake pedal. I know it's a popular fix that many swear by...my question is.
How worried should we be of damaging the casing or the load cell. I know you guys always insist on the foam piece last to avoid damage...could you add a little clarity on this...the unit seems robust enough.
If the Answer is wait until the next update but you can't give details yet... thats works too
@Tommy moon do you have details of what you're planning to try?
@Abelardor whatever you feel comfortable with. Personally I use my middle fingers.
@Abelardor whatever you feel comfortable with. Personally I use my middle fingers.
- 221
- United States
- Azriel222
- Darken Azriel
I picked these up and was unable to get the brake sleeve back into the pedal mount so.. I ended up giving up.
simsportgadget.com
Brake Mod for Logitech Pro Racing Load Cell Pedals
Replace the elastomers in the Logitech Pro Racing load cell pedals with these for a shorter, more precise feeling while braking. Our two solid spacers mod transforms the Logitech Pro Racing load cell pedal into a similar pedal travel and feeling of high-end pedals like Asetek, Heusinkveld, etc...
simsportgadget.com
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- 1,224
- Surrey, United
- Marky264
Any F1 25’ Settings for Console you’re able to share @LOGI_Rich ? Currently using a Hybrid of the F1 23’ Settings from the Logi website & 400* on the Wheel
- 162
- United States
It’s more what’s comfortable for your hands more than anything. I use my index and middle fingers. But I noticed when things get hectic I sometimes just use my middle only in the heat of the moment. Nit a conscious decision just things are happening fast and noticed ends up with one finger, in turns too. As you drive and time goes on, you will settle in to what’s comfortable for you.
- 162
- United States
I have these and it is difficult to compress and get the sleeve back in. I use a pair of 6” opening channel locks and let them do the work. Put a little foam on the jaw. It’s worth it, pedal is super hard. About 3/4-1” of pedal travel.I picked these up and was unable to get the brake sleeve back into the pedal mount so.. I ended up giving up.
Brake Mod for Logitech Pro Racing Load Cell Pedals
Replace the elastomers in the Logitech Pro Racing load cell pedals with these for a shorter, more precise feeling while braking. Our two solid spacers mod transforms the Logitech Pro Racing load cell pedal into a similar pedal travel and feeling of high-end pedals like Asetek, Heusinkveld, etc...
@Tommy moon hard inserts with no foam are fine . I took the foam out a year ago and replaced with the spacers above. You can mash the s**t out of the pedal without consequence. At least for me. That being said the pedal is so hard I only have the brake force in the base set at like 18-20. But it’s like stepping on a rock. On the track gives you incredible feel, shortens braking zones, and makes trail braking way easier. Most of my mods don’t make me faster. Brake mod shaves time for sure.
- 162
- United States
I forgot, another great option I have run is long yellow elastomer then the hard plastic spacers. No foam. Yellow elstomer has some give to it, but only travels maybe 2”. Great feel, and easier to get the sleeve back in. Very very viable option.
- 123
- United States
I actually have these...what combination
So I actually have these. I tried to go without the foam but I was pushing so hard against the pedal to get it in, I then put the short foam back.
Your right it feels way better...except at the last bit of trailbraking/high speed light braking. @EricTheActor how did you use the channel lock?
- 92
- Netherlands
- AIRWOLF303
@LOGI_Rich Thanks for the answers and your involvement on this forum!
- 162
- United States
I too have been accused of “click clacking” the girls call it. But the three of them love to gang up on me anyways lol. I’m fighting a one man battle over here. So I realized my clacking was from releasing the paddle completely each shift. I’ve learned to release the paddles out slowly back to position without the hard clack. Was very annoying at first, but now I don’t think about it. They have already found 3 million other things to criticize me about 😂Hello, is there a way to soften the noise of the paddles when shifting? Without having to open the wheel base, people at home are complainingThink the right one upshifting is worse, maybe it's me pulling
@Abelardor I realized last night I was way off on what fingers for shifting. Turns out I use all my fingers except thumbs. One of those things you don’t actually notice until it’s brought up and you try.
@Tommy moon I can’t remember the combo colors but 3 plastic- 2 long 1 short. And 1 long yellow elastomer, and 2 plastic -1 long 1 short.
On the channel locks, I pulled my pedals off of the base and mounted them inverted on angle iron so I have more room without the base, but it should be the same with the base. One side of the jaw I put on the main pedal arm above the pedal face for me. The other side I put just below the lip of the blue screw cap. I think you can still fit the channel locks in both spot even with the base on. Arm to blue cap and squeeze pretty hard and you can sneak it back into the holder with all plastic spacers. If you’re worried about warranty may not want to do this. I’ve hacked and drilled them well past that point of return. I would replace them right away anyways, I’m sure warranty process would be lengthy. It’s worth it though if you want your brake pedal like a rock.
I just remembered I have another spacer stuffed and sandwiched in there. It’s about 1/8” plastic spacer. Channel locks required lol.
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- 123
- United States
So I have the same upgrade kit you have. I put in the short hard foam and then I think blue and black although I'm not sure of the order.
I'm sorry for being obtuse but are you saying you're putting three elastomers in and another spacer?
When you say plastic what do you mean... Like did you shorten or cut down and elastomer or something totally different?
Sorry for all the questions
- 123
- United States
Actually don't sweat it I put the brake force up to 50 and it's feeling better....WAY better than the stock...at least at suzuka so far.
- 709
- Barcelona
- Metentso
Yes I can use the paddles softly lowering the noise but in the "heat of the battle" when racing i forget about it and start using the paddles like maracas. Don't know if adding a 1mm rubber pad against the round magnet (but then will it work? dont know if the contact is in the actual magnet or inside, or maybe a magnetic rubber) when pressing and to the frame of the wheel when releasing will help.
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- 123
- United States
- 709
- Barcelona
- Metentso
Positive reinforcement 😄 But I dont have a wife, it's my nieces when they come sometimes to sleep in my apartment and i get the chance to race late at night. Also when streaming, but I know there are filters to cancel that noise, I might try that too.
- 123
- United States
- 123
- United States
@LOGI_Rich and company,
So my USB wire from pedals to the base is failing. I hear horror stories about long wires causing issues. What exactly should I be getting to ensure best performance. Does shielding matter....not a lot of these older cables out....want it to last and not be buggy
So my USB wire from pedals to the base is failing. I hear horror stories about long wires causing issues. What exactly should I be getting to ensure best performance. Does shielding matter....not a lot of these older cables out....want it to last and not be buggy
- 709
- Barcelona
- Metentso
I recently unplugged everything to clean and reorganize things and realized that that cable from pedals to base had the outer plastic layer broken, at both ends near that thick cylinder (what is it). I guess the weight of that cylinder through the years caused it. I added tape to fix it and so far it's working.
- 123
- United States
- 98
- Denmark
So, I know that some people - including me - have had the issue that the O button has gone squeaky/sticky. This annoyed me for a long time, but yesterday I fixed it.
With the other "healthy" buttons you can take a small rectangle of paper, and easily slide it around the edge of the button, between the plastic and the hole. With a squeaky button you will find that the paper will not slide around because there is contact between the plastic button and the edge of the hole at one point.
Apparently there is something about the construction that can cause the O button to shift ever so slightly so the squeakiness happens.
So I cut a small rectangle of 1000 grit sandpaper (a super fine grit) and with the abrasive side towards the side of the button, I worked it towards the contact point from both sides. It was a bit tricky, because you can only use a limited force to squeeze a small piece of sandpaper, but within a couple of minutes, I had worked my way around the trouble spot, and had cleared just enough space to get rid of the bad squeaky feeling. Very happy with that. (Ended with blowing the button over with some canned air.)
With the other "healthy" buttons you can take a small rectangle of paper, and easily slide it around the edge of the button, between the plastic and the hole. With a squeaky button you will find that the paper will not slide around because there is contact between the plastic button and the edge of the hole at one point.
Apparently there is something about the construction that can cause the O button to shift ever so slightly so the squeakiness happens.
So I cut a small rectangle of 1000 grit sandpaper (a super fine grit) and with the abrasive side towards the side of the button, I worked it towards the contact point from both sides. It was a bit tricky, because you can only use a limited force to squeeze a small piece of sandpaper, but within a couple of minutes, I had worked my way around the trouble spot, and had cleared just enough space to get rid of the bad squeaky feeling. Very happy with that. (Ended with blowing the button over with some canned air.)
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- 10
- Australia
- xxDARKOxx
- Lateralus_01
I've labelled all my cables if that's what you mean.
Yep, also sometimes called a choke, although we refer to it as a ferrite.
@Tommy moon you can always get in touch with support to request a replacement.
@Tommy moon you can always get in touch with support to request a replacement.
- 709
- Barcelona
- Metentso
I just stick a label to the cable saying "base 2 to pedals", 2 being the slot number in the base, just something you can identify. If that is what you mean
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