Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[5lab]

just got my wheel and building up an aluminium profile rig for it. The pedals mount really well but I'm struggling a bit with the wheel - who thought that 3 mounting bolts in a triangle was a good idea??

Wondering what others with this wheel and a home-made rig have done for mounting? at the moment I've just clamped it on but that feels like a fudge

 

[Childe Roland]

just got my wheel and building up an aluminium profile rig for it. The pedals mount really well but I'm struggling a bit with the wheel - who thought that 3 mounting bolts in a triangle was a good idea??

Wondering what others with this wheel and a home-made rig have done for mounting? at the moment I've just clamped it on but that feels like a fudge

Got mine mounted on a NLR wheel stand 2.0 and the same problem.
Just 2 holes alligned.

The option was to drill the plate for the third one or to clamp it.
Im using the clamp with no problem whatsoever.

 

[Trk-el-son]

Hello, is there a way to soften the noise of the paddles when shifting? Without having to open the wheel base, people at home are complaining Think the right one upshifting is worse, maybe it's me pulling it harder.

I have just made a very easy and very effective mod to my gear paddles. No more click-clack.
A gear change makes two sounds - one pressing in and one on release, and we need to fix both.
In my drawer I found a piece of thick quality leather that had the exact right thicknes to kill the click when placed between the paddle and the magnet. So I cut of a little square the width of the "arm" and glued it there so it would hit the magnet.

Then for the release click, I made a little rectangle of leather that I slid into the gap that opens when the paddle is pressed (and glued it there.) This did not completely kill the release click as it needed a tiny bit more thickness.
So I grabbed a post-it pad and cut small squares of the paper on the egde that is self-adhesive. Using post-it paper you can achieve EXACTLY the right thickness and it is dead easy to use, and they will stay in place because the paddle is pressing on them when not activated. I used 4 or 5 post-its to achieve the perfect thickness.
You will loose a little bit of the initial resistance, but I have just raced and I never gave it a thought that something had changed.
Basicly all click has gone - now it is more a soft knock or a thud.

In short:
On each paddle: A small piece of thick leather (hard rubber should also work) glued to each side of the arm, plus some additional small pieces of post-it paper.

 

[Trk-el-son]

just got my wheel and building up an aluminium profile rig for it. The pedals mount really well but I'm struggling a bit with the wheel - who thought that 3 mounting bolts in a triangle was a good idea??

Wondering what others with this wheel and a home-made rig have done for mounting? at the moment I've just clamped it on but that feels like a fudge

Whatever you mount it on: Make three holes and use three bolts. I have a Next Level stand and I had to drill the third hole, but it is absolutely nescessary for minimum movement.

 

[Met Entso]

I have just made a very easy and very effective mod to my gear paddles. No more click-clack.
A gear change makes two sounds - one pressing in and one on release, and we need to fix both.
In my drawer I found a piece of thick quality leather that had the exact right thicknes to kill the click when placed between the paddle and the magnet. So I cut of a little square the width of the "arm" and glued it there so it would hit the magnet.

Then for the release click, I made a little rectangle of leather that I slid into the gap that opens when the paddle is pressed (and glued it there.) This did not completely kill the release click as it needed a tiny bit more thickness.
So I grabbed a post-it pad and cut small squares of the paper on the egde that is self-adhesive. Using post-it paper you can achieve EXACTLY the right thickness and it is dead easy to use, and they will stay in place because the paddle is pressing on them when not activated. I used 4 or 5 post-its to achieve the perfect thickness.
You will loose a little bit of the initial resistance, but I have just raced and I never gave it a thought that something had changed.
Basicly all click has gone - now it is more a soft knock or a thud.

In short:
On each paddle: A small piece of thick leather (hard rubber should also work) glued to each side of the arm, plus some additional small pieces of post-it paper.

Thank you for this tip, i'm going to give it a try!

 

[Childe Roland]

Whatever you mount it on: Make three holes and use three bolts. I have a Next Level stand and I had to drill the third hole, but it is absolutely nescessary for minimum movement.

In my experience (almost 1 year of intensive use) the 3rd hole is not that necessary if you use the clamp.
Im also in a NL stand (2.0), Base at 11nm and the in game ffb between 4 and 8 depending on the car/tyres.

I have no oscilations or movement at all.

Edit: about the click-clack noises when changing gears. I know I could be on the minority here but those "noises" are absolutely satisfying to my ears.

I can understand it may be annoying for the others if you are sharing the room but as the driver it adds something positive for me.
To each their own as they say 😎

 

[Tommy moon]

Yep, also sometimes called a choke, although we refer to it as a ferrite.

@Tommy moon you can always get in touch with support to request a replacement.

Will do thanks

 

[Tommy moon]

So I've been doing a lot of testing and I think I have something that might be really beneficial for the community.

If anybody's running in the GT3 class car... Can be for a series or a daily or whatever. Using GT7 and Logitech Pro DD and pedals.

If you post a link to a lap from YouTube. I can give you specific driving analysis, tailored setup changes (need to know what is allowed when you share lap) and maybe the coolest part for us here....

It will give you tailored force feedback adjustments specific to that car, track, and you're driving style.

I've done some testing with frankly surprisingly good results. No promises, but I think this could help a lot of us.

 

[Dan_Tes]

Hi guys

Quick one; my wheel has just developed a really annoying quirk! When going over kerbs/bumps etc it rotates through the MFD displays at random. I’ve tried reallocating the MFD to another button but seems to have the same problem. The cockpit is still sturdy and wheel seems firmly attached to the wheel mount so I’m not entirely sure why I’m suddenly getting this but it sure is frustrating! Especially time trialling where I take a corner and rather seeing my splits im now looking at the weather radar! Anyone else have this problem?

 

[MauroM]

F1 25 settings for GPro?
It s the first time that I don t see the setting in the official Logitech site

 

[Vecchio]

F1 25 settings for GPro?
It s the first time that I don t see the setting in the official Logitech site

I'm using the same settings on Logitech site i did for F1 24, seems fine for me.

 

[Tommy moon]

[

 

[MauroM]

I'm using the same settings on Logitech site i did for F1 24, seems fine for me.

Me too but the game is quite different. I use now 360 degree and other adjustement.
What s the recomended TrueForce setting IN GAME?

 

[YuY]

Title: G PRO Racing Wheel changes USB identity depending on rim – causes control remapping issues

Body:

I’ve found a major usability issue with the Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel for PS and PC.

When using the original rim, the base is recognized as:

“G HUB PRO Racing Wheel for PlayStation and PC”

When using either:

• RS WHEEL HUB (with Logitech rim)
• RS QR Adapter + 3rd-party rim (e.g. MOMO)
  → The base is instead recognized as:
  “G HUB PRO Racing Wheel for Xbox and PC“

This causes many games to treat it as an entirely different controller, requiring a complete remapping of buttons and axes.

For example:

• Assetto Corsa: requires full reconfiguration
• Japan Drift Master: same issue
• Le Mans Ultimate: same issue
• Assetto Corsa EVO: works fine regardless of rim (no remapping needed)

Logitech support responded that this is “by design”, but it’s a serious problem for anyone who uses multiple wheels in a serious sim racing setup.

@LOGI_Rich — can this be escalated?

At minimum, users need a way to force consistent USB identity across rims. This is undocumented, confusing, and frustrating.

Any insights or similar experiences are welcome.

 

[Tommy moon]

Yep, also sometimes called a choke, although we refer to it as a ferrite.

@Tommy moon you can always get in touch with support to request a replacement.

Rich,

I put in a ticket they said they don't have/sell etc any spart parts for the Dd11nm or their pedals.

So if I HAVE to go third party....what cable would you endorse. I don't want to run into interference.... I'm not looking for the cheapest I'm looking for what would be the most reliable, best performing option.

There are enough variables dialing in this wheel I would like to just fix this and not have this be one of them.

Best,

Tom Alley

 

[tinyman392]

Rich,

I put in a ticket they said they don't have/sell etc any spart parts for the Dd11nm or their pedals.

So if I HAVE to go third party....what cable would you endorse. I don't want to run into interference.... I'm not looking for the cheapest I'm looking for what would be the most reliable, best performing option.

There are enough variables dialing in this wheel I would like to just fix this and not have this be one of them.

Best,

Tom Alley

You’re having issues with the pedal cable that connects to the base right? I took my wheel off my rig for the first time since I got it and noticed that the cable was tearing. No connection issues with it yet, but I have a feeling that the constant hot cold cycles with the exhaust fan blowing right on it with each use could lead to failure.

 

[Tommy moon]

You’re having issues with the pedal cable that connects to the base right? I took my wheel off my rig for the first time since I got it and noticed that the cable was tearing. No connection issues with it yet, but I have a feeling that the constant hot cold cycles with the exhaust fan blowing right on it with each use could lead to failure.

Exactly, I have the same issue. Actually forgot to mention my other question which is this..... Does anyone tighten these? I'm so worried to over tighten anything but I find it because of the true Force things tend to loosen up.... From the vibration. I'm also thinking of cleaning the contacts in the middle.... I was thinking a q-tip and isopropyl alcohol but I don't want to do anything... Without reassurance. I feel like my relationship with this will is kind of like dating the head cheerleader... Really has its moments... But a lot of high maintenance

 

[tinyman392]

Exactly, I have the same issue. Actually forgot to mention my other question which is this..... Does anyone tighten these? I'm so worried to over tighten anything but I find it because of the true Force things tend to loosen up.... From the vibration. I'm also thinking of cleaning the contacts in the middle.... I was thinking a q-tip and isopropyl alcohol but I don't want to do anything... Without reassurance. I feel like my relationship with this will is kind of like dating the head cheerleader... Really has its moments... But a lot of high maintenance

I have not touched any of those. Not even sure if mine or loose or tight. Or how they are supposed to be.

 

[YuY]

Title: G PRO Racing Wheel changes USB identity depending on rim – causes control remapping issues

Body:

I’ve found a major usability issue with the Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel for PS and PC.

When using the original rim, the base is recognized as:

“G HUB PRO Racing Wheel for PlayStation and PC”

When using either:

• RS WHEEL HUB (with Logitech rim)
• RS QR Adapter + 3rd-party rim (e.g. MOMO)
  → The base is instead recognized as:
  “G HUB PRO Racing Wheel for Xbox and PC“

This causes many games to treat it as an entirely different controller, requiring a complete remapping of buttons and axes.

For example:

• Assetto Corsa: requires full reconfiguration
• Japan Drift Master: same issue
• Le Mans Ultimate: same issue
• Assetto Corsa EVO: works fine regardless of rim (no remapping needed)

Logitech support responded that this is “by design”, but it’s a serious problem for anyone who uses multiple wheels in a serious sim racing setup.

@LOGI_Rich — can this be escalated?

At minimum, users need a way to force consistent USB identity across rims. This is undocumented, confusing, and frustrating.

Any insights or similar experiences are welcome.

I’m experiencing a serious issue with the Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel for PS and PC.
、
• When using the original rim, the device is recognized on PC as:
→ G HUB PRO Racing Wheel for PlayStation and PC
• However, when I use the RS WHEEL HUB or RS QR Adapter,
→ it is recognized as: G HUB PRO Racing Wheel for Xbox and PC

As a result, the PC and games treat it as a completely different device, and I have to reassign all inputs every time I swap steering wheels.
—
I contacted Logitech support, and here is what they told me:
• “This is how the product was designed.”
• “We cannot provide technical documentation.”
• “Your suggestion has been forwarded to the software team.”
• “We hope the issue can be resolved in a future software update.”
—
I don’t think this behavior is acceptable for a premium product.
The USB identity should not change just because I swap the rim.
—

@LOGI_Rich – could you please escalate this to the engineering team?
At the very least, users should be given an option to lock the USB identity regardless of the attached rim.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@YuY it’s a potential feature to look at in future, but you can already account for this in a couple of ways. You’ve seen one method for solving it on the Facebook thread that you created (which is also mentioned in the link below).

The other is to save the in game wheel profile in each game and load the appropriate one, depending on which wheel you are using.

All the titles you mention have such a feature, except LMU. However there’s a workaround for that too.


@Tommy moon if you let me know the ticket number then I can check on that with support.

 

[Tommy moon]

@YuY it’s a potential feature to look at in future, but you can already account for this in a couple of ways. You’ve seen one method for solving it on the Facebook thread that you created (which is also mentioned in the link below).

The other is to save the in game wheel profile in each game and load the appropriate one, depending on which wheel you are using.

All the titles you mention have such a feature, except LMU. However there’s a workaround for that too.


@Tommy moon if you meet me know the ticket number then I can check on that with support.

Ticket Number : 15595081

Thanks rich....big race on Monday...no pressure lol

 

[YuY]

@YuY it’s a potential feature to look at in future, but you can already account for this in a couple of ways. You’ve seen one method for solving it on the Facebook thread that you created (which is also mentioned in the link below).

The other is to save the in game wheel profile in each game and load the appropriate one, depending on which wheel you are using.

All the titles you mention have such a feature, except LMU. However there’s a workaround for that too.


@Tommy moon if you let me know the ticket number then I can check on that with support.

Dear Rich,

Thank you very much for your thoughtful reply.

Yes, I’ve seen the workaround using SimHub that was shared in the Facebook thread, and I plan to give it a try.

That said, I still hope Logitech will seriously consider adding an official option — perhaps in G HUB — to lock the USB identity (device ID) regardless of the attached rim. I believe this would be a valuable feature for many users.

By the way, you mentioned that there’s a workaround for games that don’t support profile saving. Could you please explain what kind of workaround you mean?

I truly appreciate you taking the time to address this issue.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

If you click the link in my comment it takes you to a thread on the LMU forums where you can see people discussing this, along with solutions (one of which is the SimHub point that was mentioned on Facebook).

@Tommy moon I've left that request with support and they're checking stock. Unlikely to reach you by Monday, but then I don't think you're experiencing any issues at the moment though, right?

 

[Umit_O]

@LOGI_Rich I'm playing Euro Truck simulator 2 on the PC with the Logitech Pro Wheel. A truck wheel for the Logitech Pro base would be awesome! Just an idea that I wanted to share, maybe you guys can work it out .

 

[tinyman392]

@LOGI_Rich I'm playing Euro Truck simulator 2 on the PC with the Logitech Pro Wheel. A truck wheel for the Logitech Pro base would be awesome! Just an idea that I wanted to share, maybe you guys can work it out .

If you’re on PC, you could get the RS Hub and bolt on a wheel that is close to that of a truck wheel (assuming one exists).

 

[Tommy moon]

If you click the link in my comment it takes you to a thread on the LMU forums where you can see people discussing this, along with solutions (one of which is the SimHub point that was mentioned on Facebook).

@Tommy moon I've left that request with support and they're checking stock. Unlikely to reach you by Monday, but then I don't think you're experiencing any issues at the moment though, right?

Rich,

Thank you I really didn't expect it by Monday but I appreciate everything truly.

Well I've got some electrical tape on it, it's finicky but seems to be working well atm

 

[Trk-el-son]

In my experience (almost 1 year of intensive use) the 3rd hole is not that necessary if you use the clamp.
Im also in a NL stand (2.0), Base at 11nm and the in game ffb between 4 and 8 depending on the car/tyres.

I have no oscilations or movement at all.

Edit: about the click-clack noises when changing gears. I know I could be on the minority here but those "noises" are absolutely satisfying to my ears.

I can understand it may be annoying for the others if you are sharing the room but as the driver it adds something positive for me.
To each their own as they say 😎

Oh, I too actually like like they sound and feel. It is just so I avoid to annoy people around me.

 

[notarjy]

I thought the paddle shifts were loud until I got the RS shifter, now my perspective has changed haha.

 

[Trk-el-son]

The last six months I have had a rather small but annoying issue: I could lift the steering wheel up about 1 mm and it would go click-clack if it lifted and let it down. If I turned it 90 degrees, the motion would be horizontal. Then I just found out, that there is a hex bolt on the shaft, almost hidden by the plastic casing, and I could see that the metal on the "inward" side of the bolt did not move when I moved the outer part, so I concluded that tightening that bolt would most likely fix the problem. Only, how do I get the plastic case off to access the bolt? I googled, and found this:
They had a similar issue and had fixed it, not by opening the whole body, but by using a chopped down hex key. So I took a 3mm hex key and a metal file, and voila:

This tool is simply what you need if you have any kind of movement in the outer part of the shaft.

Finding the right length took a bit of trial and error. First I cut it at a slightly conservative length, and then I just filed it down until I could get it to catch the hex bolt properly.
I am sooo happy not to have that movement anymore.

 

[DivitLad]

Went to reconnect my wheel and tightening with a torque wrench It sheared, though darn it, that's going to be a hassle to get out, but clicked about getting a clamp with the Pro and it does the job very well on my wheelstand.