Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Hi everyone!

I'm using the Logitech Pro Wheel and playing GT7 (using the recommended 1080 degrees on the wheel base) and it seems that whichever car I select, the in-game wheel rotation is limited to 360 degrees, while the angle on the actual steering wheel changes depending on the car. So all in all, it seems that the car-dependent lock on the steering wheel doesn't really matter as the wheel in the game effectively stops turning after it reaches 180 in either direction. Is there any option to change this? Has anyone encountered this problem?

Thanks!

Edit: Already answered by LOGI_Rich on the sim racing subreddit: the in-game animation seems to be wrong, while the steering input is actually correct - I'll double check to confirm this as soon as play next time.

Edit 2: Confirmed, actually both the animation and the UI (red dot) seem to be wrong, but I would say the actual input is correct, after checking it carefully at low speed.
 
Last edited:
waral
Hi everyone!

I'm using the Logitech Pro Wheel and playing GT7 (using the recommended 1080 degrees on the wheel base) and it seems that whichever car I select, the in-game wheel rotation is limited to 360 degrees, while the angle on the actual steering wheel changes depending on the car. So all in all, it seems that the car-dependent lock on the steering wheel doesn't really matter as the wheel in the game effectively stops turning after it reaches 180 in either direction. Is there any option to change this? Has anyone encountered this problem?

Thanks!

Edit: Already answered by LOGI_Rich on the sim racing subreddit: the in-game animation seems to wrong, while the steering input is actually correct - I'll double check to confirm this as soon as play next time.
Click to expand...
Hello.
Since the new 1.34 update, angle management is a mess. It has a lot of influence on user friendly gaming : you have to set it back to your wanted value (900 for me) each beginning of race. Moreover, everytime go back in the GT menu, it turns back at 1080.

As an example : try to drive against the watch on Autodrome Lago Maggiore, with Alfa Rome 4C GR3.
At the start, angle value goes down to 560 by its own!!!.
The wheel will not turn as if it was 1080, no no, but like 560 degrees value. Tested it.

Thus you have to pause quickly at the begening and go in the Logitech Pro wheel menu to change the angle value (mine is 900 very often).

Fine, it works now the wheel will turn as 900 degrees behavior, ….. not user friendly as it was befor the 1.34 update

But, the worst is that every time you go back in GT Menu, then the angle value goes to 1080.

It means that you have to redo the angle value change procedure every time you start to race.

Come on ! Logitech has to fix it and go back as it was in 1.33 GT7 version.


(It took a video, but can’t attached it)


Very disappointed.
 
Last edited:
This is not something we control - it's the game that sets the rotation angle. The previous behaviour where 900 degrees was always set was actually a bug in the legacy SDK but even though it said 900 it wasn't actually running at that anyway - GT7 was setting the wheel to 1080 and you could see this in the wheel test page in the game.
 
LOGI_Rich
This is not something we control - it's the game that sets the rotation angle. The previous behaviour where 900 degrees was always set was actually a bug in the legacy SDK but even though it said 900 it wasn't actually running at that anyway - GT7 was setting the wheel to 1080 and you could see this in the wheel test page in the game.
Click to expand...
Hi Logi_Rich !
Thanx a lot for the reply and for taking care of our complaints.

The thing is that when the game changes the angle value at the start of the race (i.e. 560 when driving drive against the watch on Autodrome Lago Maggiore, with Alfa Rome 4C GR3), I can assure you that the wheel is turning only for 560 degrees. The wheel is blocked very early. This is not just a number, it really has the behavior of the angle value leaded automatically by the game since 1.34.
Honnestly, it ruines the game and the interest of the Logitech g Pro wheel.

This is even more disappointing that before the GT7 update, the Logitech g Pro wheel was a « killer », great and awesome wheel.

Thx
 
Very often the developer's goal is to have the steering wheel angle match that of the car that you're driving - it's usually the goal of the racer too. Most games do this "invisibly". Provided you're hitting actual max turning at that soft stop position that you're feeling then that's generally considered the way to go. If there actually is more steering functionality outside of the soft stop then that's a bug though, so do confirm if that's the case.
 
LOGI_Rich
Very often the developer's goal is to have the steering wheel angle match that of the car that you're driving - it's usually the goal of the racer too. Most games do this "invisibly". Provided you're hitting actual max turning at that soft stop position that you're feeling then that's generally considered the way to go. If there actually is more steering functionality outside of the soft stop then that's a bug though, so do confirm if that's the case.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the explanation. Great.

I will try to drive with the automatic angle setting on my next driving session and let you know.
 
GT7 angle actually improved. Now angles and range is more accurate per car.
Keeps getting better. I think 1.34 also improved draw distance in PSVR2 mode.
 
Katlioma
Thank you for the explanation. Great.

I will try to drive with the automatic angle setting on my next driving session and let you know.
Click to expand...
Update : since I‘ve done a few races, i confirm now that the 1.34 improved angle settings.

Thanx LOGI_Rich for the explanation, thus I’ve let the angle settings as it is, now.
 
I noticed my wheel has also started to make noises that i can feel through the wheel. I don't know for how long the noise is there as i race with headphones and the sensation is very minor.
It happens only while riding, not when the wheel is off or the car is standing still. The noise happens when i turn the wheel past a certain point at about 30 degrees rotation either way.
But i wonder if sending it back is of any use if all wheels are (eventually) affected by this.
I wonder what is causing it.
I am running the wheel at about 2/3 torque since i bought it last november.

I do still love the wheel to bits though and i often can't feel it through the forces generated by the wheel.
The noise is also not as loud as the video makes it appear.

 
Last edited:
RJ83
I noticed my wheel has also started to make noises that i can feel through the wheel. I don't know for how long the noise is there as i race with headphones and the sensation is very minor.
It happens only while riding, not when the wheel is off or the car is standing still. The noise happens when i turn the wheel past a certain point at about 30 degrees rotation either way.
But i wonder if sending it back is of any use if all wheels are (eventually) affected by this.
I wonder what is causing it.
I am running the wheel at about 2/3 torque since i bought it last november.

I do still love the wheel to bits though and i often can't feel it through the forces generated by the wheel.
The noise is also not as loud as the video makes it appear.

Click to expand...

You could try my fix, see if it does anything.

quick release wheel, turn matte black quick release collar one way or another you’ll hear it kind of scrapes lightly, find a spot where it doesn’t sound too bad, pop it back on.

Mine’s been good for a week at least now, although sometimes when I start a race, just as the light goes green I feel that light tick, happened twice last night but nothing during racing. My guess is that spring on mine is loading up again or catching something. I never checked to see if I could hear it with headphones off, definitely only did it turning left though.

Anyway, it’s an easy thing to try and see if it changes anything.
 
hawkeyez
You could try my fix, see if it does anything.

quick release wheel, turn matte black quick release collar one way or another you’ll hear it kind of scrapes lightly, find a spot where it doesn’t sound too bad, pop it back on.

Mine’s been good for a week at least now, although sometimes when I start a race, just as the light goes green I feel that light tick, happened twice last night but nothing during racing. My guess is that spring on mine is loading up again or catching something. I never checked to see if I could hear it with headphones off, definitely only did it turning left though.

Anyway, it’s an easy thing to try and see if it changes anything.
Click to expand...
Tried multiple different positions for the black QR part but it made no difference. When i keep my ear above it the sound does appear to be coming from the quick release mechanism / the wheel. That is at least somewhat reassuring as i would not like it coming from within the base.
 
Last edited:
RJ83
I noticed my wheel has also started to make noises that i can feel through the wheel. I don't know for how long the noise is there as i race with headphones and the sensation is very minor.
It happens only while riding, not when the wheel is off or the car is standing still. The noise happens when i turn the wheel past a certain point at about 30 degrees rotation either way.
But i wonder if sending it back is of any use if all wheels are (eventually) affected by this.
I wonder what is causing it.
I am running the wheel at about 2/3 torque since i bought it last november.

I do still love the wheel to bits though and i often can't feel it through the forces generated by the wheel.
The noise is also not as loud as the video makes it appear.

Click to expand...

It's a design flaw. Most of the wheels will develop similar noise issues throughout their lifespan. I've seen this on two units already. But in your case I'm getting even worse impression of it. Granted as I can judge it in person, it might be "normal". I guess I don't know, either try to claim your warranty or if it does not bother you much try to get used to it. If you try to get a replacement you will end up playing a fortune game in a wheel lottery, and in the end might solve the issue just temporarily. This is a wheel design flaw which might already have been recognized by the Logitech engineers internally, or not, depending on how serious they are about the "premium" quality of their products.
 
Last edited:
miroshi
It's a design flaw. Most of the wheels will develop similar noise issues throughout their lifespan. I've seen this on two units already. But in your case I'm getting even worse impression of it. Granted as I can judge it in person, it might be "normal". I guess I don't know, either try to claim your warranty or if it does not bother you much try to get used to it. If you try to get a replacement you will end up playing a fortune game in a wheel lottery, and in the end might solve the issue just temporarily. This is a wheel design flaw which might already have been recognized by the Logitech engineers internally, or not, depending on how serious they are about the "premium" quality of their products.
Click to expand...
Yes i think i will just accept it. It is only noticable in very slow corners and only in Assetto Corsa. The other game I play is Dirt 2 and too much is going on on the gravel roads to distuingish the issue from the normal forces.
I mostly wonder what is causing it. But i am used to wheels having some kind of flaw (Fanatec / Thrustmaster) and this is a very minor one as long as it doesn't get worse.
 
Last edited:
I’ve been noticing my “click” coming back at the very beginning of races, first corner under braking or on take off then nothing for the rest of the race or just the odd faint click here and there. Overall, love the wheel, I’m a bit of a perfectionist so the lick bothers me, I’m kind of hoping it’ll start doing it a lot again so I can try giving the collar a spin again with the wheel off to see if I’ve narrowed it down to that.
 
Is anyone in the UK still awaiting delivery of their Pro Pedals? Wheel turned up next day but no date as yet for the pedals. It’s absolutely killing me having the wheel sat in the box not getting use 😂
 
Last edited:
bokspeed
Is it OK to run GT7 Game setting for FFB max torque at 9 and have strength on the wheel at 11. I have upped GT7 from 8 to 9 recently and liking it - its improving my laps times too - but want to make sure its ok to run at 9 for gt7 max torque setting?
Click to expand...
Hi,

It should be absolutely no problem for a direct drive wheel to use it at maximum power.

I also use it in GT7 at 11Nm and have the value 9 in-game depending on the car.

Everything else is too light for me.

In general, it is always recommended to set the base to 100% FFB and to regulate the FFB in the game.

Otherwise you limit the base.

I am a former Fanatec DD1 user and did the same there.

KR Thomas

Edit: By the way, I generally find that the FFB for the Logitech G Pro could be stronger. 11Nm felt stronger on the DD1 Base.

In my opinion, the FFB for our wheel should be strengthened.
 
Last edited:
thomasoeli
Hi,

It should be absolutely no problem for a direct drive wheel to use it at maximum power.

I also use it in GT7 at 11Nm and have the value 9 in-game depending on the car.

Everything else is too light for me.

In general, it is always recommended to set the base to 100% FFB and to regulate the FFB in the game.

Otherwise you limit the base.

I am a former Fanatec DD1 user and did the same there.

KR Thomas

Edit: By the way, I generally find that the FFB for the Logitech G Pro could be stronger. 11Nm felt stronger on the DD1 Base.

In my opinion, the FFB for our wheel should be strengthened.
Click to expand...
I’ve recently turned it up to 6 torque on GT7. Not sure I could go higher than that but maybe time will tell. I think I turned it up because comfort tires and sometimes sports tires feel a bit light. So I just put up with heavier wheel on racing tires now. I think PD could maybe slightly narrow the FFB strength we feel between the different tire compounds, if they haven’t already in the last update. I thought I felt a tiny difference but it could just be in my head, and I can’t remember if I turned up my torque setting before or after the update.
 
hawkeyez
I’ve recently turned it up to 6 torque on GT7. Not sure I could go higher than that but maybe time will tell. I think I turned it up because comfort tires and sometimes sports tires feel a bit light. So I just put up with heavier wheel on racing tires now. I think PD could maybe slightly narrow the FFB strength we feel between the different tire compounds, if they haven’t already in the last update. I thought I felt a tiny difference but it could just be in my head, and I can’t remember if I turned up my torque setting before or after the update.
Click to expand...
It depends very much on the vehicle how strong the FFB feels.

If you drive the old Mercedes '89 in the current online time trial at Le Mans, you feel much more FFB than in a small road car. Currently, I drive a value of 7 with this car.

Or, for example, with the car from the other online time race. I don't know which one it is right now. Here you have to increase the value again.

I also understand that there are differences between the cars, but you should still make the range to adjust larger.

I haven't noticed a difference between the tires yet.
 
Hi !
sorry to ask that question that have been talked a couple of times, but I‘m struggling quite a lot with GT7 settings for the G Pro wheel.

Could you please share with me yours recommended settings or GT7 ? i.e.

Controller Sensitivity __
FFB Max Torque __
FFB Sensitivity __

Thx a lot for helping.
 
Hi,

you can use the recommended settings from Logitech to start with, see link.

support.logi.com

In-Game Settings for Pro Wheels

Click here to view this article in a new tab. Because game settings are subjective, the following suggestions are to help you determine which settings may improve your game experience. Where rele...
support.logi.com support.logi.com

Enclosed my settings:

Base:

Torque: 11Nm
TF Audio: 100 (Controller Vibration 40% in the controller settings)
FFB Filter: 7
Dampener: 20
Angle: 1080 (Since the new update, you must also adjust this for each vehicle. Sometimes 540 or 900 degrees are better, depending on the car.)

Controller Sensitivity: always 5

FFB Max Torque: 10 (at the Moment for an "R32 GT-R NISMO ´90"). Porsche GT3 as example between 7-9. You should adjust this value yourself for each vehicle. I leave the other values unchanged.

FFB Sensitivity: always 10

Regards, Thomas
 
Last edited:
thomasoeli
Hi,

you can use the recommended settings from Logitech to start with, see link.

support.logi.com

In-Game Settings for Pro Wheels

Click here to view this article in a new tab. Because game settings are subjective, the following suggestions are to help you determine which settings may improve your game experience. Where rele...
support.logi.com support.logi.com

Enclosed my settings:

Base:

Torque: 11Nm
TF Audio: 100 (Controller Vibration 40% in the controller settings)
FFB Filter: 7
Dampener: 20
Angle: 1080 (Since the new update, you must also adjust this for each vehicle. Sometimes 540 or 900 degrees are better, depending on the car.)

Controller Sensitivity: always 5

FFB Max Torque: 10 (at the Moment for an "R32 GT-R NISMO ´90"). Porsche GT3 as example between 7-9. You should adjust this value yourself for each vehicle. I leave the other values unchanged.

FFB Sensitivity: always 10

Regards, Thomas
Click to expand...
Thx Thomas for your quick reply.

I’ll have a try tomorrow with your settings.
 

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