Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[thomasoeli]

That's really strange. You should find the serial number on the base and on the back of the wheel.

The serial number is the same.

Are they really both wrong?

Have you looked on the original Logitech box to see if the serial number is there?

 

[bokspeed]

That's really strange. You should find the serial number on the base and on the back of the wheel.

The serial number is the same.

Are they really both wrong?

Have you looked on the original Logitech box to see if the serial number is there?

This is odd - the serial number on the box, the wheel base and the steering wheel are all different - and none of them are found / matched on the support logi site when attempting to register them.

I did register the Logi G Pro using the serial number on the box one week after I had received them in April 2023 but I had to manually enter the details as it could not match the serial number then either.

 

[bokspeed]

That's really strange. You should find the serial number on the base and on the back of the wheel.

The serial number is the same.

Are they really both wrong?

Have you looked on the original Logitech box to see if the serial number is there?

Do your serial numbers match on the wheel base and steering wheel - and on the box if you still have it.

I wonder if I was sold a refurb but it was packaged as new from Logitech - that would be illegal!

 

[RJ83]

If I were you, I would not wait for an answer, but contact support immediately, or return the wheel if you are still within the period of the revocation.

In my opinion, it is a defect where even @LOGI_Rich cannot help.

Not help in the meaning of solving it. But maybe he knows/can inquire what is causing the noises and the tactile sensation that goes with it. I wonder if it is of any use to return it if it is a design flaw. If it is, then many, if not all, wheels would need a fix in the design.

 

[hawkeyez]

I feel for you cause mine “ticked” about three times in a 4 hours of racing this afternoon and I even felt a bit annoying by that because it is distracting, for a second it feels like your wheel is binding for a split second or you just broke something despite turning gently and smoothly. Hope you get it sorted out.

 

[bokspeed]

Can everyone do me a favour and see if the serial numbers match on the Logitech box the items came in, the wheelbase (sn is underneath) and on the steering wheel (sn is on the back - small label)

My serial numbers are all different for each. I just need to know what is normal and which one to use for the logi support ticket as I need both the wheelbase and steering wheel replaced, so assume I need to use the sn on the box that the wheebase and steering wheel came in.

Thanks in advance and would appreciate some feedback

 

[bokspeed]

I feel for you cause mine “ticked” about three times in a 4 hours of racing this afternoon and I even felt a bit annoying by that because it is distracting, for a second it feels like your wheel is binding for a split second or you just broke something despite turning gently and smoothly. Hope you get it sorted out.

Unfortunately, mine is constantly there when turning and the force is 2nm or above. I also don't wear a headset so all I can hear is the creaking noise and when that occurs I can feel the "ticking"in the steering wheel, even with tf audio / vibration turned off. Apart from that issue I do like the wheel a lot.

 

[bokspeed]

Not help in the meaning of solving it. But maybe he knows/can inquire what is causing the noises and the tactile sensation that goes with it. I wonder if it is of any use to return it if it is a design flaw. If it is, then many, if not all, wheels would need a fix in the design.

Imam sure there would be more reports of this if it was a major design flaw as it appears most are running without these issues - I am just one of then unlucky ones - perhaps there is a bad batch. My issue only started recently and is now persistent unfortunately and takes away the enjoyment of the wheel - I even have the pro pedals so was happy to invest.

I will put my trust and faith in Logitech that they will deliver a resolution!

I will see what @LOGI_Rich has to say about this, including the serial numbers.

 

[bokspeed]

Can everyone do me a favour and see if the serial numbers match on the Logitech box the items came in, the wheelbase (sn is underneath) and on the steering wheel (sn is on the back - small label)

My serial numbers are all different for each. I just need to know what is normal and which one to use for the logi support ticket as I need both the wheelbase and steering wheel replaced, so assume I need to use the sn on the box that the wheebase and steering wheel came in.

Thanks in advance and would appreciate some feedback

.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@RJ83 and @bokspeed Try what miroshi does in the second video in this post. If it's making a clicking noise when you push down on the QR adapter on the wheel base without the wheel attached then definitely get in touch with support to arrange an exchange.

Use the serial number from the wheel base as the reference.

 

[RJ83]

@RJ83 and @bokspeed Try what miroshi does in the second video in this post. If it's making a clicking noise when you push down on the QR adapter on the wheel base without the wheel attached then definitely get in touch with support to arrange an exchange.

Use the serial number from the wheel base as the reference.

And do you have to be in a game when trying this? Or is the base automatically turned off when the wheel is not connected?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

The base won't fully enumerate until the wheel rim is attached anyway so power off is the state to try this in.

 

[bokspeed]

And do you have to be in a game when trying this? Or is the base automatically turned off when the wheel is not connected?

The Base will turn off if you disconnect the wheel.

With the wheel attached, I can Power up the base and select PS5 so its connected but don't log in into PS5 and when I turn the wheel left or right I get the noise when torque goes above 2nm - I have Logi Base display the torque output on the small Oled screen.

When I turn to Logi Base QR adapter by hand, I get this noise (see video clip below) but not sure how hard to press on the QR adapter to see if I have another issue that is the same as miroshi:




When turning the wheel left or right, this is the noise I get by just powering up the G Pro Unit before logging into the PS5 and any game;

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Miroshi was pressing pretty hard down on the adapter in that video by the looks of it.
The other potential source of this is the back cover of the wheel rim - if you hold that firmly in place whilst turning the wheel, does it still make the noise? Are all of the screws still tight on the back?

 

[bokspeed]

Miroshi was pressing pretty hard down on the adapter in that video by the looks of it.
The other potential source of this is the back cover of the wheel rim - if you hold that firmly in place whilst turning the wheel, does it still make the noise? Are all of the screws still tight on the back?

Just tried and the noise is still there when holding the back cover of the wheel. All screws are in place and tight.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Please get in touch with support then.

 

[bokspeed]

Please get in touch with support then.

I will create a support ticket. Its safe to say that at this point I would need my Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel and Direct Drive Base unit replaced with a complete new set - I would not accept any refurbs. I have only had my current set for 2 months and now its faulty.

For what I paid for it, that would be expected to ensure there are no remaining issues.

 

[DogsSch]

Hi,

you can use the recommended settings from Logitech to start with, see link.

In-Game Settings for Pro Wheels

Click here to view this article in a new tab. Because game settings are subjective, the following suggestions are to help you determine which settings may improve your game experience. Where rele...

support.logi.com

Enclosed my settings:

Base:

Torque: 11Nm
TF Audio: 100 (Controller Vibration 40% in the controller settings)
FFB Filter: 7
Dampener: 20
Angle: 1080 (Since the new update, you must also adjust this for each vehicle. Sometimes 540 or 900 degrees are better, depending on the car.)

Controller Sensitivity: always 5

FFB Max Torque: 10 (at the Moment for an "R32 GT-R NISMO ´90"). Porsche GT3 as example between 7-9. You should adjust this value yourself for each vehicle. I leave the other values unchanged.

FFB Sensitivity: always 10

Regards, Thomas

Hey!

Can you explain the differences to the official one? Like FFB Sensitivity.

I was a bit out of the loop and I know there were big changes but at this point I have trouble understanding the settings.

I know you guys probably went through this a couple of times by know, sorry about that (a stickied post might be useful).

 

[LOGI_Rich]

I will create a support ticket. Its safe to say that at this point I would need my Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel and Direct Drive Base unit replaced with a complete new set - I would not accept any refurbs. I have only had my current set for 2 months and now its faulty.

For what I paid for it, that would be expected to ensure there are no remaining issues.

Yes, it would be a complete replacement of the base and rim.

 

[bokspeed]

Yes, it would be a complete replacement of the base and rim.

Thanks @LOGI_Rich

Do I need to let you know the support ticket number when I get one?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

No need - please follow up with them.

 

[hawkeyez]

Hey!

Can you explain the differences to the official one? Like FFB Sensitivity.

I was a bit out of the loop and I know there were big changes but at this point I have trouble understanding the settings.

I know you guys probably went through this a couple of times by know, sorry about that (a stickied post might be useful).

I think you’re going to find it’s personal preference mostly. I think you’ll find some people turn in game controller vibration way down, others crank it way up, who’s right? Nobody.

I assume the Logitech settings they provide are a nice middle ground or maybe somebody at Logitech feels that’s the absolute best settings for that game? I don’t know.

But my advice would be to set the wheel at 11nm and all the settings to Logitech recommended. Then drive it for the entire week or month. And then, pick one setting at a time and crank it all the way down, drive some, then crank it all the way up. That will give you an idea of what each setting does, you should feel the difference. Then you can decide on where you’d like that setting.

There’s a video with a guy that worked on ACC and he talks about setting up your wheel, it’s an hour long video but quite informative. He does talk about setting the dampener though.

In a nutshell, use recommended settings for a week. Tweak one thing, give it time, tweak, then move onto the next setting and so forth.



****I’m still using Logitech recommended settings, only I bumped up the controller vibration in game to I think 40 maybe and torque in game to 6. The rest is what they recommend. I may mess around with the sensitivity some more and the filter and dampener. I should say, I had, then out of curiosity I went back to recommended and felt I had gone to far with turning down filter and dampener and cranking up in game sensitivity.

 

[DogsSch]

I think you’re going to find it’s personal preference mostly. I think you’ll find some people turn in game controller vibration way down, others crank it way up, who’s right? Nobody.

I assume the Logitech settings they provide are a nice middle ground or maybe somebody at Logitech feels that’s the absolute best settings for that game? I don’t know.

But my advice would be to set the wheel at 11nm and all the settings to Logitech recommended. Then drive it for the entire week or month. And then, pick one setting at a time and crank it all the way down, drive some, then crank it all the way up. That will give you an idea of what each setting does, you should feel the difference. Then you can decide on where you’d like that setting.

There’s a video with a guy that worked on ACC and he talks about setting up your wheel, it’s an hour long video but quite informative. He does talk about setting the dampener though.

In a nutshell, use recommended settings for a week. Tweak one thing, give it time, tweak, then move onto the next setting and so forth.



****I’m still using Logitech recommended settings, only I bumped up the controller vibration in game to I think 40 maybe and torque in game to 6. The rest is what they recommend. I may mess around with the sensitivity some more and the filter and dampener. I should say, I had, then out of curiosity I went back to recommended and felt I had gone to far with turning down filter and dampener and cranking up in game sensitivity.

My main issue here is TF on wheel vs controller vibration and FFB Sesitivity in the game.

All other settings I can find the sweet-spot for because I understand them.

These, not so much.

 

[hawkeyez]

My main issue here is TF on wheel vs controller vibration and FFB Sesitivity in the game.

All other settings I can find the sweet-spot for because I understand them.

These, not so much.

Maybe check out this video?



as for TF vibration, I think that’s stuff like engine noise and road noise. Too high and your wheel is just going to vibrate a lot. Too low, you’re kind of missing out on info like kerbs and stuff.

But yeah I get what you’re saying, it wouldn’t be that difficult for them to just have a description of what each thing does and is responsible for. I remember PC2 haha their cryptic way of explaining all their settings. Made absolutely no sense and you literally just had to extreme to figure it out.

 

[hawkeyez]

My main issue here is TF on wheel vs controller vibration and FFB Sesitivity in the game.

All other settings I can find the sweet-spot for because I understand them.

These, not so much.

Hey I turned my FFB sensitivity up tonight from 2 to 10. Here’s what I noticed. On 2 it’s almost like the wheel has a wider dead zone like the FFB is smoother and less pronounced between 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock. Like the feedback is dampened? I really don’t know. However with the FFB sensitivity turned up to 10 the wheel is more active in that range, a little heavier and more direct feedback is felt. It almost seemed like I had more feedback closer to center. I suspect it’s dampening at a lower setting as to not be too active. I may or may not leave it at 10. I might just split the difference and go around 5 or 6, run it there for awhile and then decide from then.

As for trueforce, I know I cranked that up before and all the vibrations I was getting was a little overbearing. From what I understood, a lot of the is sound related, so engine noise, curbs, bumps, collisions etc. Maybe even rain hitting the car? I don’t know.

 

[miroshi]

Unfortunately, my Logitech G Pro wheel has developed a fault and I suspect it is an RMA - let me know your thoughts please from the video below.

There is a noise when turning the wheel left or right and I can also feel the "grinding" through the steering wheel when driving.

I have uploaded the video to youtube here:

Here we go again, the exact same issue as I had and had to RMA the wheel. Unfortunately be prepared that the replacement unit will also most likely develop similar problems as I'm already seeing with my replacement wheel as well (not as loud though as the unit before, but it's there). This is a product quality issue coming from bad design decisions.

 

[miroshi]

Here is another video but one with a noise from the drive unit without the wheel attached - could this be linked to the grinding noise I experience when turning left or right when driving:

This noise on the other hand is normal, this is not what you feel or hear during gameplay. I confirmed this noise on three units fresh out of the box.

 

[bokspeed]

Here we go again, the exact same issue as I had and had to RMA the wheel. Unfortunately be prepared that the replacement unit will also most likely develop similar problems as I'm already seeing with my replacement wheel as well (not as loud though as the unit before, but it's there). This is a product quality issue coming from bad design decisions.

I logged a ticket by calling Logitech Support here in the UK and explained the issue. I have been given a ticket reference number and was told someone would contact me via my email - but I have not received or heard anything yet! So nothing is moving currently for my RMA.

 

[miroshi]

The RMA is a slow process, at least 2 to 3 weeks, from the day the ticket is started until replacement delivered, in my two instances it took 17 and 30 days.

 

[morfei1]

LOL, I'm expecting my wheel to come these days, and I'm really worried about this out of the box problems....