Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[Supercededman]

@LOGI_Rich

Loving my G Pro wheel. Something really weird happened today that has not occurred before.

I race GT7 on my PS5 with a VR2 headset. Whilst wearing the headset I pressed the main PS button (just below wheel center) to try and access options out of GT7. Nada.

I turned the PS off, and on again. I turned the wheel on and off again. I disconnected the VR2 cable and reconnected it.

Oddly, when I lifted the headset above my brow, and could see my monitor, the PS button would function normally. IOW, it was only when I lowered the headset to cover my eyes and drive that the conflict occurred.

I WAS able to use the controller's PS button as per normal, but if I want to change tyres at the start of a race (for instance, I wanted to for Le Mans today) I'd want to use the wheel PS button.

Any ideas why it would not be working?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

PS button or Options button? The PS button (the one with the PlayStation logo in the centre bottom spoke of the wheel) would normally bring up the home screen menu for the console, but not access the options within a game; that's what the Options button (the three horizontal lines next to the right dial) does.

Other question - do you have both the wheel and the PSVR2 controllers (and DualSense?) actuated at the same time and are they both assigned to the same player profile?

 

[Supercededman]

PS button or Options button? The PS button (the one with the PlayStation logo in the centre bottom spoke of the wheel) would normally bring up the home screen menu for the console, but not access the options within a game; that's what the Options button (the three horizontal lines next to the right dial) does.

Other question - do you have both the wheel and the PSVR2 controllers (and DualSense?) actuated at the same time and are they both assigned to the same player profile?

Thanks for that. I confused you (and myself!) by describing the issue regarding tyre changes. Just take no notice.

The issue is really that if I press the PS button I would get NIL response, until I took the VR2 off my head. I will have to look into if the VR2 (which is controlled by my G Pro, having controllers turned off, and NEVER used them) and the DualSense controllers are somehow assigned to different profiles. That makes sense, but never had that issue before after many hours playing with my old Fanatec DD Pro.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

I just had a quick recheck and can't replicate this - pressing the PS button on the wheel brings up the system menu whether I'm on the homescreen, in the game menu or driving a car. Definitely check out whether you had both the DualSense and the wheel assigned to the same player because if they're not then that's the only thing I can think of that might cause that kind of situation. Also remember that you don't need the DualSense at all to use the wheel.

 

[JodyyyHiiiRol]

A little bit more follow up to my earlier comment regarding BeamNg.

G PRO Direct Drive losing ffb

Anytime I switch vehicles, change map, and here recently even just let me car sit for more than 30 seconds.. I lose all force feedback, including TrueForce, to my wheel. Only way I’m able to get it to come back on is to restart the game. I’ve tried disconnecting all other USB ports with something plugged into it.

For reference, all of my bindings still work appropriately as they should, steering and all. It’s just the ffb cuts out and fails to come back on. Does anyone have any experience with this? As the title states, I’m using a Logitech G Pro direct drive with the Pro pedals also.

I’m at my wits end, this wheel is absolutely amazing when it works but for some reason BeamNg is the only game that has been giving me this issue for what seems like the past 3 months.

I’ve also done the uninstall/reinstall on Beam, my drivers, Ghub, everything. I’m about to uninstall and reinstall my gotdamned life if I don’t figure this out soon lmfao. Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to read all of this.

 

[morfei1]

@LOGI_Rich I resently started playing ASM
2. According to the recommended setting page I should use comparability mode G923, but I'm using as regular G Pro with default+ profile with everything else on 0 and in-game gain at 50%.

The wheel feels very good, but is it the right way. I'm not exactly sure if TF is working and how I'm supposed to turn it on/off or fine tune it.

Can you give me some tips?

Thanks!

 

[NLR-13]

Interesting, that's the most detail (although I use the term loosely ) you've been able to give us that I recall, consider my interest piqued slightly.

I shall continue to await some sort of announcement somewhere sometime about something!

LOL, it has been almost 1yr since release and Logitech has indicated nothing in regards to new products. It is quite obvious that communication is not a Logitech priority.

 

[Hoani Tuati]

If I cannot get G Hub to recognise my hardware, do I keep reinstalling it until it does? Are there any known issues with WIN 11 PRO?

I have tried both USB-A ports but can try a hub plugged into a USB-C port if necessary.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@JodyyyHiiiRol Did your uninstall of Beam include deleting the C:\Users\username\Documents\BeamNG.drive folder?

I really can't replicate this issue in Beam so I've no idea why it's happening.

@morfei1 Yes, the settings page needs updating - I'm planning to do it in one go once I finalise settings for Forza Motorsport and WRC. For AMS2, Pro mode is fine. It's the FX slider in-game that affect Trueforce, but also you'll find that the TF Audio setting on the wheel adjusts it. AMS2's Trueforce implementation is pretty subtle but it's definitely there and overall the title is feeling awesome since the 1.5 update.

@Hoani Tuati the most common reason for this is that you've set the Platform option on the wheel OLED to start in a console mode. You need to go in there, switch to PC then power cycle the wheel and it should pick up in G HUB.

 

[Hoani Tuati]

@JodyyyHiiiRol Did your uninstall of Beam include deleting the C:\Users\username\Documents\BeamNG.drive folder?

I really can't replicate this issue in Beam so I've no idea why it's happening.

@morfei1 Yes, the settings page needs updating - I'm planning to do it in one go once I finalise settings for Forza Motorsport and WRC. For AMS2, Pro mode is fine. It's the FX slider in-game that affect Trueforce, but also you'll find that the TF Audio setting on the wheel adjusts it. AMS2's Trueforce implementation is pretty subtle but it's definitely there and overall the title is feeling awesome since the 1.5 update.

@Hoani Tuati the most common reason for this is that you've set the Platform option on the wheel OLED to start in a console mode. You need to go in there, switch to PC then power cycle the wheel and it should pick up in G HUB.

That makes sense because I race on a PS5. Thanks for the help.

 

[Saidur_Ali]

There’s a lot of complexity going on in the wheel already with Pro Wheel and G923 modes for each of the supported platforms. Based on our research, very few people still use the PS3 so we had to weigh that up against the expected hit to development.

Is it still possible to develop it and add it in firmware afterwards? I would definitely buy this wheel if it supported PS3 emulating something like the G25 or DFGT for most compatibility. (If PS2 support could be added, that would make it even better). Out of interest, did PS3 have less latency than PS4, it felt similar to PC if I remember correctly. Did TRUEFORCE reduce latency for G923 on PS4 and PS5 compared to G29 like it does for the G PRO?

Can the clutch paddles be used on GT7 on PS5 as accelerator and brake?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Sorry, PS2/PS3 support are definitely not on the roadmap.

I genuinely can't remember if PS3 has similar or better latency compared to PS4 or PS5 but it definitely wasn't 1ms - the only way to get that 1ms reporting on console is with Trueforce.

The clutch paddles can be used as accelerator and brake.

 

[Hoani Tuati]

Is it still possible to develop it and add it in firmware afterwards? I would definitely buy this wheel if it supported PS3 emulating something like the G25 or DFGT for most compatibility. (If PS2 support could be added, that would make it even better). Out of interest, did PS3 have less latency than PS4, it felt similar to PC if I remember correctly. Did TRUEFORCE reduce latency for G923 on PS4 and PS5 compared to G29 like it does for the G PRO?

Can the clutch paddles be used on GT7 on PS5 as accelerator and brake?

I had to use those paddles for that purpose when I had an injured right foot. Some manual dexterity is needed if you drive in manual though and I ended up driving in automatic. However I cannot drive using a controller either because my "old brain" cannot adapt to using one.

I had a T300 RS and ordered the G PRO however injured my foot before it arrived. I used the T300 with the gear paddles as accelerator and brake but that meant they were either always on or off. The G PRO clutch paddles however have scalability in them and therefore easier to have say half throttle for example.

 

[s363134]

Saw someone on Facebook repurposed the unused clutch into a handbrake with the addition of a RJ12 cable extension, awesome idea!...until you need a clutch of course but shows how simple it can be.

I hope Logitech's already working on one and it isn't too far away, ideally inline with the EA WRC title release 😜.

 

[hawkeyez]

Saw someone on Facebook repurposed the unused clutch into a handbrake with the addition of a RJ12 cable extension, awesome idea!...until you need a clutch of course but shows how simple it can be.

I hope the Logitech's already working on one and it isn't too far away, ideally in the next few days inline with with the EA WRC title release 😜.

View attachment 1290501

Some people are pretty clever

 

[tyoungbl]

I really don't understand the logic here. I have a ps5 base and ignoring the frustrating fact that they could have packed an xbox rim with a ps5 base and had a multi-platform wheel, why the hell can I just not buy the Xbox rim and be done wth it! Sku the damned thing out separately and take my money logitech.

 

[hawkeyez]

I have a question regarding steering lock. So around most chicanes like the last one in Spa or the ones in Monza, it feels like I have to turn the wheel a fair amount past 90 degrees. So if I turn right, the blue band goes from 12 o‘clock to around 4 or 5 o’clock to make the first part of the chicane and then the opposite for the left hand portion of the chicane.

Is this normal? Is there a way to tighten that up a little bit without affecting anything else such as how the wheel feels FFB wise?

I like it the way I have it other than really having to turn it a lot on chicanes. I usually hook my left thumb in the wheel on a tight right hand turn and help turn sort of pushing with the left and guiding with the right hand because it’s not enough to go hand over hand but it’s too much to just hold onto the steering wheel and turn.

If the wheel was lighter, I’d just use one hand but if I set it up that way, it doesn’t feel as good in all the other turns. I do use one hand running cars with comfort medium because the wheel is light enough, but running the Mark IV I don’t think I could one hand steer tighter corners in that with racing hard tires.

 

[s363134]

I have a question regarding steering lock. So around most chicanes like the last one in Spa or the ones in Monza, it feels like I have to turn the wheel a fair amount past 90 degrees. So if I turn right, the blue band goes from 12 o‘clock to around 4 or 5 o’clock to make the first part of the chicane and then the opposite for the left hand portion of the chicane.

Is this normal? Is there a way to tighten that up a little bit without affecting anything else such as how the wheel feels FFB wise?

I like it the way I have it other than really having to turn it a lot on chicanes. I usually hook my left thumb in the wheel on a tight right hand turn and help turn sort of pushing with the left and guiding with the right hand because it’s not enough to go hand over hand but it’s too much to just hold onto the steering wheel and turn.

If the wheel was lighter, I’d just use one hand but if I set it up that way, it doesn’t feel as good in all the other turns. I do use one hand running cars with comfort medium because the wheel is light enough, but running the Mark IV I don’t think I could one hand steer tighter corners in that with racing hard tires.

You could dial down the rotation angle setting on the wheel base

 

[hawkeyez]

You could turn dial down the rotation angle setting on the wheel base menu

I faintly remember reading earlier in this thread that it made the wheel super sensitive and weird peak torque at times if you narrowed the rotation angle. Maybe I’ll just have to try it. I thought I set it to something once and it just reset itself anyway.

 

[morfei1]

I haven't played GT7 for the last 2 months. Today I started it and give it a go on the new single player content....

LOL, the cars felt very strange when braking compared to any other SIM I play, ACC, rf2, ASM2...

My load sell is at 40kg and I'm using the stiffest option since I've got them. What I did is I switch ingame setting for ABS default to ABS weak and it was instant change for me. The cars started to feel ok when braking.

 

[s363134]

I haven't played GT7 for the last 2 months. Today I started it and give it a go on the new single player content....

LOL, the cars felt very strange when braking compared to any other SIM I play, ACC, rf2, ASM2...

My load sell is at 40kg and I'm using the stiffest option since I've got them. What I did is I switch ingame setting for ABS default to ABS weak and it was instant change for me. The cars started to feel ok when braking.

Hmm not sure, I'm on 41kg and the stiffest settings as well but all the aids off (ABS, TC, etc), do tell us what feels strange; are you referring to the hardware pedal pressure or something to do with GT7 or the specific car you happened to be driving at the time?

There was a recent update that's been discussed here re: PD limiting GT7 wheel torque on players "safety" grounds 🤨, but apart from that I don't think pedals setting were tinkered, perhaps @LOGI_Rich has more info on these.

 

[Monkey Man]

... but apart from that I don't think pedals setting were tinkered...

Correct; they weren't.

 

[morfei1]

Hmm not sure, I'm on 41kg and the stiffest settings as well but all the aids off (ABS, TC, etc), do tell us what feels strange; are you referring to the hardware pedal pressure or something to do with GT7 or the specific car you happened to be driving at the time?

There was a recent update that's been discussed here re: PD limiting GT7 wheel torque on players "safety" grounds 🤨, but apart from that I don't think pedals setting were tinkered, perhaps @LOGI_Rich has more info on these.

I don't think I get you? You are driving with ABS and TC off always?

If the game is working as it should you are supposed to have better braking distance with ABS weak compared to ABS default when using load cell brake, and that's exactly what I'm experiencing.

The cars just don't want to stop when using my reference braking point with the ABS default. Why? Because in game ABS electronics make way more corrections than needed so tires not to lock. You can see the pedal is at max or almost but the ABS cuts it by half or what ever, same as how TC works in game. It cuts power way more than needed.

I have good experience in other Sims driving cars without ABS simply because they don't have ABS.

If you are on a potentiometer based pedal ABS default is the way to go, coz there is no way to be as precise as with the LC pedal to not lock and modulate the brake during braking phase. It's works pretty much on/off.

I've never said PD limited the pedal operation it's just how it works in pretty much most of the Sims as AC, ACC, rf2, ASM2.

 

[s363134]

I don't think I get you? You are driving with ABS and TC off always?

If the game is working as it should you are supposed to have better braking distance with ABS weak compared to ABS default when using load cell brake, and that's exactly what I'm experiencing.

The cars just don't want to stop when using my reference braking point with the ABS default. Why? Because in game ABS electronics make way more corrections than needed so tires not to lock. You can see the pedal is at max or almost but the ABS cuts it by half or what ever, same as how TC works in game. It cuts power way more than needed.

I have good experience in other Sims driving cars without ABS simply because they don't have ABS.

If you are on a potentiometer based pedal ABS default is the way to go, coz there is no way to be as precise as with the LC pedal to not lock and modulate the brake during braking phase. It's works pretty much on/off.

I've never said PD limited the pedal operation it's just how it works in pretty much most of the Sims as AC, ACC, rf2, ASM2.

Oh ok I get ya, no idea on this one, maybe someone on similar setting can chime in. I’ve got all aids off at the moment to get used the G Pro pedals, but I’m pretty old school and prefer to drive unaided but you’re right not the best thing for lap times when it come to competitive driving.

 

[Tor_Hal]

Hi

I have a weird issue on F1-23 with my G pro wheel on a PS5.
The wheel has the newest firmware and game is on the last patch.

I play the game on timetrial the wheel workes fine.
When i started a league race / grand prix multiplayer a intense noise started when the car came on the track, this lasted for qualification and race.
The noise is kinda trueforce on super steroids, it is constant, but is more distant when i ride curbs.
i thought the issue was for qualification only but when the race started it was still there.

My only solution is restarting PS5 and wheel, then go straight to a multiplayer session.

This only happens if i drive timetrial before a multiplayer session(so far).

Anyone else experienced this?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Yes, this seems to have happened to a couple of people since the new patch. I've seen two people report that if they uninstall the game, delete the save files and then reinstall that it no longer happens. I can see that you've reported this to EA on their forums and we've drawn their attention to it as well.

It would be good if you can confirm that it doesn't happen if you always just go straight to playing online, instead of doing a time trial first. Also, if you go to the Generic Control settings in F1 23, if you adjust the Trueforce intensity setting, does that make any difference?

 

[Tor_Hal]

Hi
Thank you for responding to this.

So far Rich it has worked going straight to multiplayer after restart for me, but as the problem is erratic its difficult to say if that is the solution.
The frist time this happend i tried adjusting trueforce and force feedback during the race (in game / not on wheel) and nothing worked. I even tried turning forcefeedback off in the game and it did not have any effect on the vibrations.

After the issue the first time i turned trueforce to 0 in the game, but sinse the same issue happend yesturday this did not help.

 

[Tor_Hal]

I did some more testing last night.

I could replicate this happening even after ps5 restart when I started a lobby and loaded a setup file in that lobby.
When I started driving the issue was there every time when using loading older lobby setups.

The wheel vibrations start when the car is out of the pitlane, when you take control of the car.

The vibrations from the wheel goes away if I stop to car, as long as the car is not rolling the vibrations are not there. And if I turn the sound volume of the game in game settings to off the vibrations goes away.
So its clear it is linked to game audio and rolling car.
Revving the car when standing still do not create vibrations, only when car is moving.

However I was able to bypass the issue if i did not use old lobby setup files.

Hope this can help to solve the issue!

 

[krille_r]

Hi!
I have rearranged my gaming rig a bit, bought a monitor to not need to move the rig to the tv anymore. But offcourse the cable between the wheel and the ps5 i just a little bit to stort. @LOGI_Rich could you help me with What cable to buy? Would need like 0.5m longer than the original.
Could an usb extention cable work?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Hi!
I have rearranged my gaming rig a bit, bought a monitor to not need to move the rig to the tv anymore. But offcourse the cable between the wheel and the ps5 i just a little bit to stort. @LOGI_Rich could you help me with What cable to buy? Would need like 0.5m longer than the original

A longer micro USB to USB A cable could be problematic, so an active USB repeater cable could be an option.