Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

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Digit is using a Fanatec but the community holds a lively discussion with a few G Pro owners. I have a hunch the Fanatec wheels interpret the FFB Sensitivity differently in GT7, which might explain their responses to the recommended settings.

Also, I feel like I haven’t tested it enough. Next, I will turn off true force (Vibration=0) just to be sure I’m reading it correctly. I normally have it at 150, which really feels great on this wheel.
 
Digit is using a Fanatec but the community holds a lively discussion with a few G Pro owners. I have a hunch the Fanatec wheels interpret the FFB Sensitivity differently in GT7, which might explain their responses to the recommended settings.

Also, I feel like I haven’t tested it enough. Next, I will turn off true force (Vibration=0) just to be sure I’m reading it correctly. I normally have it at 150, which really feels great on this wheel.

Digit has a review up on YouTube of this wheel. You should check it out.
 
I did actually! I watched his review and a few others before I bought the G Pro wheel. I’m on PS5 and I with the racing adaptor, I was able to keep my brakes (G923+TrueBrake).

Also, I drove the 787B at Fuji to test FFB Sensitivity. Torque always set to 5. I tried Sensitivity 1-5 with particular attention to the oscillation on the straight. At 200mph, even 1 can oscillate, but I found as I increased it, the oscillation got worse quickly (steep curve, not linear at all). When I got to 5, it was unmanageable. I tried 10 for fun, and it starts to oscillate in 4th gear and gets really violent if you don’t hang on. Again, Max Torque 5. I’m sure the screws would come off my stand if it were maxed.

For a racing cars, I’m going stay around sensitivity 1-2; road cars, I’ll bump it up 3 tops.

EDIT: Oops, I missed Digit’s settings (dg-edge.com), which feature a different setup on the wheel. Much different, gotta try it now.

EDIT #2: Well, Digit’s settings didn’t work for me. Wheel base settings felt too loose, and the FFB Torque/Sensitivity made the wheel oscillatate badly on the straight, just as it had earlier.
 
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Thanks for sharing! I’ve added my tests using the Gr1 787B and another recent test with a Gr.3 car (911 RSR). Someone suggested testing on Gr3 unless I race Gr1 often, which I don’t. But I thought it’d be good to calibrate using a high downforce car so I can set it and forget it. I’m sure I’m not the only one who gets a bit too carried away with settings and tunes, and I’m eager to get out on the track and practice.

For the Gr.3 test, I kept Logi’s recommended wheel base settings (FFB 8, Damper 15) and tried some other community suggestions in-game: Max Torque at 4-7 and FFB Sensitivity at 7-10 (all depending on the car). In my experience, higher sensitivities still feel too responsive and twitchy. But I found a TQ/SEN combination of 4/7 to feel pretty good.

Since I was getting suggestions from the Digit community, I revisited Digit’s settings (FFB filter 11, Damper 5) and lowered the strength to 8.8nm. Then, in-game, I kept Max Torque to 4 and FFB Sensitivity set to 7. I was surprised to find that this offered the best feel for grip yet with balanced FFB and a responsive wheel. I could really feel the limits on corners much clearer now.

Of course, I returned to Fuji and drove the Gr1 787B with the settings. The sensitivity of 7 was obviously too high, but lowering it 3 made the oscillations very light, 2 nearly eliminated it, and 1 lesser so. I’d settle on 2 for Gr.1 sensitivity, which is great because I can settle on the Max Torque and adjust one setting as needed.

One final thing, my wheel stand doesn’t have the stability of a premium stand or cockpit (it was perfect with the G923). I’ll make it work, but I may need to tighten the screws a bit more often. It does shape my experience, though.
 
One final thing, my wheel stand doesn’t have the stability of a premium stand or cockpit (it was perfect with the G923). I’ll make it work, but I may need to tighten the screws a bit more often. It does shape my experience, though.
Don't know which wheel stand you have but, I've modified my old Wheelstand Pro over the last 13 years (DFGT, G27, G29 & GPro) to handle how I was treating it. See this post if you're interested. I did have to drill a hole and pin the joint where the top post meets the wheel mount plate to mitigate slippage when "aping" the wheel.
 
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since GT7 update 1.60 I’ve been experiencing some strange FFB with my Logitech g pro wheel. The steering feels very strong on the straights and goes light the more lateral load applied through a corner. The sensation of tyre scrub is non existent and makes it impossible to feel where the limit of grip is.
This feeling is at its worst with high downforce cars such as gr2.
I’ve tried every combination of settings, replacing cables, restarting everything etc, nothing changes and it’s every time I use the wheel.

Anyone else experiencing the same and are there any fixes?
 
since GT7 update 1.60 I’ve been experiencing some strange FFB with my Logitech g pro wheel. The steering feels very strong on the straights and goes light the more lateral load applied through a corner. The sensation of tyre scrub is non existent and makes it impossible to feel where the limit of grip is.
This feeling is at its worst with high downforce cars such as gr2.
I’ve tried every combination of settings, replacing cables, restarting everything etc, nothing changes and it’s every time I use the wheel.

Anyone else experiencing the same and are there any fixes?
I have not experienced any of this 🤷‍♂️
 
Thanks for sharing! I’ve added my tests using the Gr1 787B and another recent test with a Gr.3 car (911 RSR). Someone suggested testing on Gr3 unless I race Gr1 often, which I don’t. But I thought it’d be good to calibrate using a high downforce car so I can set it and forget it. I’m sure I’m not the only one who gets a bit too carried away with settings and tunes, and I’m eager to get out on the track and practice.

For the Gr.3 test, I kept Logi’s recommended wheel base settings (FFB 8, Damper 15) and tried some other community suggestions in-game: Max Torque at 4-7 and FFB Sensitivity at 7-10 (all depending on the car). In my experience, higher sensitivities still feel too responsive and twitchy. But I found a TQ/SEN combination of 4/7 to feel pretty good.

Since I was getting suggestions from the Digit community, I revisited Digit’s settings (FFB filter 11, Damper 5) and lowered the strength to 8.8nm. Then, in-game, I kept Max Torque to 4 and FFB Sensitivity set to 7. I was surprised to find that this offered the best feel for grip yet with balanced FFB and a responsive wheel. I could really feel the limits on corners much clearer now.

Of course, I returned to Fuji and drove the Gr1 787B with the settings. The sensitivity of 7 was obviously too high, but lowering it 3 made the oscillations very light, 2 nearly eliminated it, and 1 lesser so. I’d settle on 2 for Gr.1 sensitivity, which is great because I can settle on the Max Torque and adjust one setting as needed.

One final thing, my wheel stand doesn’t have the stability of a premium stand or cockpit (it was perfect with the G923). I’ll make it work, but I may need to tighten the screws a bit more often. It does shape my experience, though.


I'm happy to see the two groups bouncing ideas off each other. That was my intent when I harassed Mihael into it.

However
since GT7 update 1.60 I’ve been experiencing some strange FFB with my Logitech g pro wheel. The steering feels very strong on the straights and goes light the more lateral load applied through a corner. The sensation of tyre scrub is non existent and makes it impossible to feel where the limit of grip is.
This feeling is at its worst with high downforce cars such as gr2.
I’ve tried every combination of settings, replacing cables, restarting everything etc, nothing changes and it’s every time I use the wheel.

Anyone else experiencing the same and are there any fixes?


Do you have a replay of a lap?..if so and you can timestamp where the FFB drops. I could plug it into my AI tool and it will provide FB settings tweaks...I've used it and several others now and the results have really helped
 
@LOGI_Rich

There is a chance that I need a 10' usb extension to plug my wheel into a pc for iRacing. Will that work, or be an issue requiring a different solution?
 
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Ah, my favourite potential cause of issues 😄

You might be okay, but I've had far too many times when people have had weird behaviour, as a result of using one. An Active USB Repeater cable is usually the safer bet.
 
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Ah, my favourite potential cause of issues 😄

You might be okay, but I've had far too many times when people have had weird behaviour, as a result of using one. An Active USB Repeater cable is usually the safer bet.
I was hoping you would stop at its okay. At what point or length of extension will a repeater be required? I can rewire my rig, moving everything from the left to the right, and make do with a 6' extension.
 
It's impossible to say - the quality of cables varies massively. I'll always point out that USB extension cables are not a part of the official USB specification and even a 6' extension puts the total length over 3m, which is definitely in danger territory. Like I said, you might be okay and there are people who are fine with using them, but the minute you start seeing issues then that's the first place to look.
 
It's impossible to say - the quality of cables varies massively. I'll always point out that USB extension cables are not a part of the official USB specification and even a 6' extension puts the total length over 3m, which is definitely in danger territory. Like I said, you might be okay and there are people who are fine with using them, but the minute you start seeing issues then that's the first place to look.
I'll need to pull all the wire management apart and see if I can reduce the required extension to 3'.
 
Honestly, just give it a try first. Or, assuming you haven't already got the USB extension cable, get an Active Repeater cable instead.
 
Hi.

Anyone got in-game and G-Hub settings for Le Mans Ultimate? I'm not quite happy with the FFB that I'm currently getting from the G Pro Racing wheel in this sim. ACC is typically my goto sim but since LMU officially got to version 1,0 release, I thought I would give it a go.

@LOGI_Rich , Does Logitech contriburte the developers of LMU to unlocking features on the base such as True Force? I don't believe LMU utilized this cababiluty on the Logitech Direct Drive Base at the moment.
 
We provide the SDK to all developers, giving them everything they need to support Trueforce and are happy to work with them discussing implementation and/or troubleshooting any issues they might find during implementation. Whether they implement support for Trueforce is largely down to their own resources, weighed up against everything else that they're already working on.
 
It's impossible to say - the quality of cables varies massively. I'll always point out that USB extension cables are not a part of the official USB specification and even a 6' extension puts the total length over 3m, which is definitely in danger territory. Like I said, you might be okay and there are people who are fine with using them, but the minute you start seeing issues then that's the first place to look.
Hi Rich,

This shall apply to USB female/USB-C male adapter ?
 
That depends on its construction.
1753260247314.png


Something like the dongle-style adapter on the right - probably not an issue.
Something like the cable-style on the left... as pictured, probably not an issue. If the cable in the middle gets longer and doesn't have good shielding etc. then that's where the problems begin.
 
We provide the SDK to all developers, giving them everything they need to support Trueforce and are happy to work with them discussing implementation and/or troubleshooting any issues they might find during implementation. Whether they implement support for Trueforce is largely down to their own resources, weighed up against everything else that they're already working on.
Rich,

How do we learn more about how it works. So we could better dial it in? I think it's pretty well documented my frustration here.

However, these issues and specifically the brake pedal are more of an issue than your team recognizes. I've championed this cause....digit, spent months trying to develop and print diy solutions with some of those folks...and now instead of progress....

The high level guys...they are now leaving... multiple people now...sold their stuff and going fanatech. They just don't feel like they can be competitive.

Wish this had gone the other way....it's a big issue. Maybe I could have been more exhaustive with this....but now my AI bot is my most reliable source for settings, FFB etc. that I have. But without the Aliens I was working with on Logitech now...that project won't suffice either.

I Thank you and this community...you all are great. Sorry, I couldn't help anyone
 
3 year anniversary of the G Pro being released this upcoming September…still no use for that clutch pedal. Does anyone still have any hope they will release one at this point? I had the Driving Force Shifter from the G27 days but it’s a shame they haven’t come out with a more premium offering to match their wheel.
 
Rich,

How do we learn more about how it works. So we could better dial it in? I think it's pretty well documented my frustration here.

However, these issues and specifically the brake pedal are more of an issue than your team recognizes. I've championed this cause....digit, spent months trying to develop and print diy solutions with some of those folks...and now instead of progress....

The high level guys...they are now leaving... multiple people now...sold their stuff and going fanatech. They just don't feel like they can be competitive.

Wish this had gone the other way....it's a big issue. Maybe I could have been more exhaustive with this....but now my AI bot is my most reliable source for settings, FFB etc. that I have. But without the Aliens I was working with on Logitech now...that project won't suffice either.

I Thank you and this community...you all are great. Sorry, I couldn't help anyone
With the partnership between Logitech and McLaren, I really hope this opens the door for the development of a “G Pro V2” or even a “podium-level” pedal set. While the original G Pro pedals were solid for their time, they now fall behind in several key areas compared to what’s available on today’s market.

I understand if the current strategy is to remain within a certain price range to appeal to a broader audience. However, introducing a high-end, elite-level pedal set could be a major step forward for Logitech, especially in the sim racing space. There’s clearly a growing demand for more premium hardware—particularly among PC users—and Logitech is in a great position to fill that gap.

Even for console users, there’s currently a lack of truly elite pedal sets outside of niche third-party options like VNM (which are mostly compatible with Fanatec). If Logitech were to bring a high-quality, performance-focused pedal set to market, it could set a new standard—especially if it’s McLaren-branded and backed by the same engineering focus seen in their recent gear.
 
I haven't posted for a long while but thought I would share my replacement Handbrake and gear shift setups for my G Pro shifter.
 

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Ah, my favourite potential cause of issues 😄

You might be okay, but I've had far too many times when people have had weird behaviour, as a result of using one. An Active USB Repeater cable is usually the safer bet.
Was able to use 6' Amazon Basics 3.0 cables and the wheel is working perfectly. Wow, TrueForce implementation in iRacing feels amazing, more like the original version in GT7 before PD broke it.
 
A couple of questions for @LOGI_Rich

Firmware updates: Do they need to be completed in sequence or does the latest firmware always contain the updates of the previous ones?
(Basically can you skip them)


Nearly all the hands-on demos that I've seen at various events for the upcoming Project Motor Racing game have been using the G Pro wheel and pedals. With reports coming back saying about how good it feels I'd say this could bode well for the future release of the full title.
S4S have been keen to mention the fast calculation rates of their new physics engine, this would work well with the higher response rates of Trueforce I believe.
I was wondering, have Logitech been working with Straight 4 Studios on the use of the Trueforce implementation within the game?
 
Hi,

here is short video what happens randomly when turning in to corners. I could drive like hours before anything happens but then suddenly going in to corner full starboard turn, ffb gone for a second and then returns..

It happens with both original wheel and rs track wh/track wheel.
Full starboard! Yes sir!

e. attached telemetry from that moment.

e2. more testing and seems dropping in-game force feedback sensitivity from 10->3 removed the issue for now. I was able to tilt wheel many times and below another video what happens. Is there any explanation to this? Game gives too strong signal to wheel causing it to crash or something? Could the moment be when tyres start to break? Log g pro tilting
 

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Hi,

here is short video what happens randomly when turning in to corners. I could drive like hours before anything happens but then suddenly going in to corner full starboard turn, ffb gone for a second and then returns..

It happens with both original wheel and rs track wh/track wheel.
Full starboard! Yes sir!

e. attached telemetry from that moment.

e2. more testing and seems dropping in-game force feedback sensitivity from 10->3 removed the issue for now. I was able to tilt wheel many times and below another video what happens. Is there any explanation to this? Game gives too strong signal to wheel causing it to crash or something? Could the moment be when tyres start to break? Log g pro tilting
If you post a link to a lap on YouTube....I'll have my AI help tweak your settings.

Just let me know the car, BOP conditions, and your FFB settings and I'll get on it for you
 
If you post a link to a lap on YouTube....I'll have my AI help tweak your settings.

Just let me know the car, BOP conditions, and your FFB settings and I'll get on it for you
Sorry...I see the lap...I'll plug it in blind...but it may need fine tuning without the aforementioned details
 
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