Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[Tommy moon]

Hi,

here is short video what happens randomly when turning in to corners. I could drive like hours before anything happens but then suddenly going in to corner full starboard turn, ffb gone for a second and then returns..

It happens with both original wheel and rs track wh/track wheel.
Full starboard! Yes sir!

e. attached telemetry from that moment.

e2. more testing and seems dropping in-game force feedback sensitivity from 10->3 removed the issue for now. I was able to tilt wheel many times and below another video what happens. Is there any explanation to this? Game gives too strong signal to wheel causing it to crash or something? Could the moment be when tyres start to break? Log g pro tilting

So I couldn't view the video in that format...but never the less here's some feedback....
1. Thermal Protection or Torque Limiting (Hardware-Side)

Running 11Nm strength + high dampening (30) + filter (5) can cause the wheelbase to intentionally reduce FFB output during longer stints or aggressive driving.

This can feel like “dead” or “faded” FFB in high-load corners, especially mid to late stint.


Solution:

Try reducing dampening to 15–20, and filter to 3. These draw less current/heat.

Confirm that fan intake/exhaust isn’t blocked, and the PSU is getting airflow.

. GT7 Bug or FFB Reset Glitch

GT7 sometimes fails to reapply FFB properly after:

Pause menu usage

Resets from off-track/ghosting

Entering pit lane or track transitions


The result is soft or no FFB unless you unplug or restart the session.


Solution:

If it drops, try:

Changing camera view briefly

Pausing and resuming

Tapping brake/clutch to “wake” the system


Worst case: return to pits or unplug/replug USB.



---

3. Audio Effects (TrueForce) Overload or Conflict

At Audio Effects = 100, the G Pro might overload the signal path when paired with high FFB filter and dampening.

This causes inconsistent sensation or a muffled feel.


Solution:

Try lowering Audio Effects to 60–80.

This can preserve TrueForce detail without flooding the feedback layer.

Also test with FFB sensitivity reduced to 5 for balance.



---

4. GT7’s Dynamic FFB Scaling or Car-Specific Behavior

GT7 applies car-specific FFB models, especially under BoP.

In some cars (e.g., FF cars, understeery Gr.4s), the game intentionally reduces self-aligning torque during sliding or yaw transitions.

This can feel like the wheel “dies” temporarily.


Solution:

Have the driver try a different car (e.g., Gr.3 or Gr.2) and see if the issue persists.

Some GT7 cars just have garbage FFB tuning under BoP 🤷‍♂️.

 

[Jeielii]

So I couldn't view the video in that format...but never the less here's some feedback....
1. Thermal Protection or Torque Limiting (Hardware-Side)

Running 11Nm strength + high dampening (30) + filter (5) can cause the wheelbase to intentionally reduce FFB output during longer stints or aggressive driving.

This can feel like “dead” or “faded” FFB in high-load corners, especially mid to late stint.


Solution:

Try reducing dampening to 15–20, and filter to 3. These draw less current/heat.

Confirm that fan intake/exhaust isn’t blocked, and the PSU is getting airflow.

. GT7 Bug or FFB Reset Glitch

GT7 sometimes fails to reapply FFB properly after:

Pause menu usage

Resets from off-track/ghosting

Entering pit lane or track transitions


The result is soft or no FFB unless you unplug or restart the session.


Solution:

If it drops, try:

Changing camera view briefly

Pausing and resuming

Tapping brake/clutch to “wake” the system


Worst case: return to pits or unplug/replug USB.



---

3. Audio Effects (TrueForce) Overload or Conflict

At Audio Effects = 100, the G Pro might overload the signal path when paired with high FFB filter and dampening.

This causes inconsistent sensation or a muffled feel.


Solution:

Try lowering Audio Effects to 60–80.

This can preserve TrueForce detail without flooding the feedback layer.

Also test with FFB sensitivity reduced to 5 for balance.



---

4. GT7’s Dynamic FFB Scaling or Car-Specific Behavior

GT7 applies car-specific FFB models, especially under BoP.

In some cars (e.g., FF cars, understeery Gr.4s), the game intentionally reduces self-aligning torque during sliding or yaw transitions.

This can feel like the wheel “dies” temporarily.


Solution:

Have the driver try a different car (e.g., Gr.3 or Gr.2) and see if the issue persists.

Some GT7 cars just have garbage FFB tuning under BoP 🤷‍♂️.

Hi,

thank you for the info.

Here is lap 19 from live and exact spot. It happened on some other laps as well, can´t remember which, but this was the worst moment.
Lap 19
Starboard moment

It is hot here atm. Room temp. can be 25-28c so that could explain part of it but it has occurred during winter and normal condition too so can´t be full idea. Also I have vacuumed it from time to time so intake should be clear

Base was full 11nm, damp I have changed around 0-15, never over that but ffb filter was probably on auto.
In-game FFB probably 7-9, can´t remember, sens. was 10. Audio effect was 0 in this one.

In that short further testing in Bathurst simply that in-game sens. seemed to clear the issue which occurred when the wheel had been up for couple of minutes so probably not even heated yet. I can try to run some 10 lap sets with 1 and 10 during this week to get some proper data.

e. Oh, car was Aston gr.3, bop on but custom aero settings, basicly full front and low rear, brake balance +5.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@Jeielii Is the firmware up to date? You'll need to connect it to a PC/Mac to perform this. Also, is the wheel connected directly to the console or are you using any form of USB extension? Have you tried connecting to different USB ports on the console? Finally, what do you have connected to the wheel base? Just the Pro Pedals, or do you have the Racing Adapter and/or the RS Shifter/Handbrake?

@IfAndOr Yes, Straight4 have the SDK and there has been a dialog checking in on issues. We haven't yet received a build to test though.

@Tommy moon Honestly, there's not much more that I can share regarding how the interface works that I haven't already done so. You have the game settings on the game side, then the interfaces for the kinaesthetic and vibrotactile forces that the game sends to the wheel and then the settings on the wheel, all of which you've seen explanations for previously.

 

[IfAndOr]

Straight4 have the SDK and there has been a dialog checking in on issues. We haven't yet received a build to test though.

You need to put your name down for their Factory Driver testing programme. With your credentials I'm sure you have a good chance of acceptance. It'd be great to get the wheel homed in to perfection. 😉

 

[Jeielii]

@Jeielii Is the firmware up to date? You'll need to connect it to a PC/Mac to perform this. Also, is the wheel connected directly to the console or are you using any form of USB extension? Have you tried connecting to different USB ports on the console? Finally, what do you have connected to the wheel base? Just the Pro Pedals, or do you have the Racing Adapter and/or the RS Shifter/Handbrake?

@IfAndOr Yes, Straight4 have the SDK and there has been a dialog checking in on issues. We haven't yet received a build to test though.

@Tommy moon Honestly, there's not much more that I can share regarding how the interface works that I haven't already done so. You have the game settings on the game side, then the interfaces for the kinaesthetic and vibrotactile forces that the game sends to the wheel and then the settings on the wheel, all of which you've seen explanations for previously.

Hi,

all up to date, only pedals connected. PS5 USB ports all in use but I can shuffle for test but no hubs etc.

Problems occurred first times roughly year ago with that infamous update. Before that nothing.

 

[matt545]

@LOGI_Rich since the most recent update I’ve been experiencing zero sensation of tyre slip. The wheel goes numb through corners with high lateral load then super heavy as soon as I’m on straight.
I’ve been managing it with different settings but it’s not optimal and not how a wheel of this quality should feel.
In a league race just now, as soon as quali started everything felt super light. I turned torque up two notches to 8 and it was ok. As the race went on it got lighter and lighter until I spun with no feeling of FFB. Almost like the wheel is overheating.
What advice can you provide please?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@Jeielii This may seem random but are the pedals connected into the port nearest the power supply? If not, try connecting them there and see if you can still replicate.

For both you and @matt545 though, testing in another title to see if you get the same issue is essential to help isolate where the cause might be.

 

[matt545]

@

@Jeielii This may seem random but are the pedals connected into the port nearest the power supply? If not, try connecting them there and see if you can still replicate.

For both you and @matt545 though, testing in another title to see if you get the same issue is essential to help isolate where the cause might be.

To add to this, I have a second Pro base that had a different issue, I set that up last night and all FFB felt perfect for about 2 laps then it all went light and numb again like the other one. Surely this is a GT7 to Logitech bug?
I’ll test with ACC today never had any issue with that title

 

[Trk-el-son]

So, I have had my G Pro setup for more than a year, and have not fiddled with settings for half a year. GT7 in-game Vibration has been maxed and TF Audio has been maxed on the wheelbase. (FFB maxed on the base and 5 in-game.)
The other day, just for fun, I turned both in-game vibration AND TF Audio to zero. What blew my mind was: I could not feel ANY difference at all. So I tried several cars, several tracks, kept turning Vibration and TF Audio from zero to max, and I did not feel the slightest hint of a difference. I went fast, went slow, drove over curbs, grass, gravel, dirt, tarmac, but all felt completely normal, no matter the settings.

I am using the newest firmware and the newest GT7 (PS5). Also, I am in a solid alu-profile rig.

This really puzzles me. Should I not be able to tell a huge difference? Could be interesting to hear what happens if some of you do the same experiment.

Thanks for any input.

(Just to make clear: I like how things currently feel, so I don't actually have a problem. I am just trying to understand why Vibration and TF Audio does not seem to do anything at my end.)

 

[IfAndOr]

I'm not a GT7 player but I've noticed a few things via the forum. So the one thing I'd ask @Trk-el-son is... do you have the vibration for controller 1 toggled on in the options? You can move the vibration slider all you want but it won't have any effect if it's not activated. Might be your problem?

 

[Trk-el-son]

I'm not a GT7 player but I've noticed a few things via the forum. So the one thing I'd ask @Trk-el-son is... do you have the vibration for controller 1 toggled on in the options? You can move the vibration slider all you want but it won't have any effect if it's not activated. Might be your problem?

Thanks. I never payed any attention to that toggle. I can now conclude, that I have been driving without any kind of vibration since forever.😂 😂
And now I suddenly understand why people have recommended rather low settings for vibration. Like, I have always been like "crank that thing way up" (because, in fact, I was not getting anything at all).

So, for future readers, if you find yourself having set in-game vibration and TF audio to max, please check that the vibration check-box for controller 1 is toggled on.

 

[IfAndOr]

Thanks

Not a problem. Thank you for contacting the help desk. 😄

 

[Dragonwhisky]

Not a problem. Thank you for contacting the help desk. 😄

You forgot to ask @Trk-el-son to fill out the survey. How're the bean counters gonna count if they ain't got any surveys to ignore?

 

[Tommy moon]

@Jeielii Is the firmware up to date? You'll need to connect it to a PC/Mac to perform this. Also, is the wheel connected directly to the console or are you using any form of USB extension? Have you tried connecting to different USB ports on the console? Finally, what do you have connected to the wheel base? Just the Pro Pedals, or do you have the Racing Adapter and/or the RS Shifter/Handbrake?

@IfAndOr Yes, Straight4 have the SDK and there has been a dialog checking in on issues. We haven't yet received a build to test though.

@Tommy moon Honestly, there's not much more that I can share regarding how the interface works that I haven't already done so. You have the game settings on the game side, then the interfaces for the kinaesthetic and vibrotactile forces that the game sends to the wheel and then the settings on the wheel, all of which you've seen explanations for previously.

Gotcha. So that means I'm going over to PC...

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

Gotcha. So that means I'm going over to PC...

FFB and TrueForce on pc (iRacing) is very impressive to this old Gran Turismo guy.

 

[matt545]

@Jeielii This may seem random but are the pedals connected into the port nearest the power supply? If not, try connecting them there and see if you can still replicate.

For both you and @matt545 though, testing in another title to see if you get the same issue is essential to help isolate where the cause might be.

Hi @LOGI_Rich ,
Confirming no issues with ACC, both my wheel bases feel normal. But on GT7, I get the sensation of tyre scrub and being able to feel the grip for about two laps then it goes numb. All other ffb is there, curbs, grass etc, with the steering feeliing very heavy on the straights, then nothing on the corners. Both G Pro bases doing the same thing.

Any updates on this? I have a ticket opened with support as well but haven't got any response yet.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Based on that, the only conclusion is that it's something GT7 is doing or settings within GT7.

As with the note earlier in this thread, do you have vibration turned on in GT7's settings? If so, what value are you running it at?

 

[Jeielii]

Hi,

so, wheel to ps usb now changed from front of ps to back. Is the front usb port actually slower?
Pedal usb changed to closest to wheel power. It was somewhere furthest from it.

Wheel:
11nm
tf audio 20
ffb filt 11
damp 5

Game:
Vibration on, strength 75
FFB max torq. 6
Force feedback sens. 10

About 30c inside, five laps no issues so far. I will see if I have time at some point to run more tests and change back to old usb ports and if that really is the case.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Let us know, although a note for everyone here - I'm on vacation now until the 11th, so I probably won't be around. I'll catch up with any questions (if any) when I'm back.

 

[matt545]

Based on that, the only conclusion is that it's something GT7 is doing or settings within GT7.

As with the note earlier in this thread, do you have vibration turned on in GT7's settings? If so, what value are you running it at?

Vibration is set at 150.

My other settings are:
Wheel
Strength 11
TF Audio 80-100
FFB filter 4-5
Dampener 20-30 (car dependant)

In game
Torque 6-7
Senstivity 4-7

Update on the FFB going numb on corners. It feels normal for two laps then disappears, last night when this happened I cycled the FFB filter (while driving) to auto then down to 1 then back to my setting of 4. It seemed to reset the FFB and I had the feeling of tyre scrub for a couple of laps then the same thing would happen over and over all race.
This obviously isnt a solution but would like to understand what happening here?