Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

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Makes sense as most serious sim racing is done on pc. I also don't really understand why anyone capable of paying 1000+$ for sim racing hardware wouldn't spend a similar amount on a gaming pc. Mods add so much to it. Assetto corsa still is my favorite sim because of it.

Obviously is takes a bit of time setting everything up the way you want, but it's not difficult and easily worth it. And without mods it's just as straightforward to install and play as on consoles (plus access to all the extra sim racing games you don't get on consoles).
Might be capable of spending $1000+ on the wheel etc but not another $1000+ on a PC. The sky isn’t always the limit.
 
Good luck setting up PMR’s FFB on PS5. I’m on the day one patch (1.5.0.0), but I’m confused by how it feels on launch. The GPro is recognized, but driving is awful. The cars have unpredictable handling, inputs behave strangely, and the physics feel incorrect. I’ve tried both FFB and car-specific force feedback, but I’m not sure if it’s working as intended. Seems I’m not alone, but down to tinker with the FFB settings if that’s the key.
 
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Good luck setting up PMR’s FFB on PS5. I’m on the day one patch (1.5.0.0), but I’m confused by how it feels on launch. The GPro is recognized, but driving is awful. The cars have unpredictable handling, inputs behave strangely, and the physics feel incorrect. I’ve tried both FFB and car-specific force feedback, but I’m not sure if it’s working as intended. Seems I’m not alone, but down to tinker with the FFB settings if that’s the key.
The way a YouTuber described it, it sounded like project cars 2 which doesn’t support g pro. Me thinking they took the lazy route and utilized their g 29 stuff from that game
 
Good luck setting up PMR’s FFB on PS5. I’m on the day one patch (1.5.0.0), but I’m confused by how it feels on launch. The GPro is recognized, but driving is awful. The cars have unpredictable handling, inputs behave strangely, and the physics feel incorrect. I’ve tried both FFB and car-specific force feedback, but I’m not sure if it’s working as intended. Seems I’m not alone, but down to tinker with the FFB settings if that’s the key.
I'm very frustrated, the lack of FBB on PS5 is horrible, huge lack of detail
 
I still don't have access to the console versions, I'm afraid, and at this point I'm running out of time to get anything tested before my next lot of travel - I'm going to be away for the first two weeks of December.

Here's the in-game for the PC version using RS50:
1764171039060.webp

For the RS50 that was running at 8Nm, Filter at 14, Dampener at OFF and TF Audio at 100.

I wonder if people might benefit from increasing the Load Boost setting that's in the Tyre and Chassis section of the car setup screen?
 
I wouldn't bother trying to hone in any settings yet for PMR. Amongst the know issues they are working on that crept in with the day one patch are a few ones that would affect the FFB.

Screenshot_2025-11-26-15-39-27-942.webp


I'd give them a while to sort the issues out before tweaking.
 
I still don't have access to the console versions, I'm afraid, and at this point I'm running out of time to get anything tested before my next lot of travel - I'm going to be away for the first two weeks of December.

Here's the in-game for the PC version using RS50:
View attachment 1494498
For the RS50 that was running at 8Nm, Filter at 14, Dampener at OFF and TF Audio at 100.

I wonder if people might benefit from increasing the Load Boost setting that's in the Tyre and Chassis section of the car setup screen?
Thanks I'll give this a try.

Also.. if FFB is only good by having to change the setup for every single car then that's a big no from me.
 
Does anyone know of a place to purchase a replacement power supply for the G Pro? I bought one secondhand, so I'm not covered by warranty, and the barrel plug (hopefully not the jack) is finicky and causes dropouts if it gets bumped, so I was hoping it was possible to replace. I searched and saw that the question had been asked a couple of times, but I was never able to find a resolution. Has anyone found a pathway to purchase an official one or a compatible product? I'm not amazing with electronics, but I can solder, so if I needed to take a power supply and put a new plug on it, I probably can.
 
Thanks I'll give this a try.

Also.. if FFB is only good by having to change the setup for every single car then that's a big no from me.
Keep expectations in check for PS5 for now...PMR has confirmed they still need to make some updates before Rich and his team can provide meaningful FFB tuning advice.

EDIT: FYI I've tried the FFB Rich has suggested, as well as other tinkering from other folks. G Pro still feels like a broken G923, with a very mechanical feel and an unpleasant handling model.

See below.

Screenshot 2025-11-26 at 11.09.18 AM.webp
 
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Keep expectations in check for PS5 for now...PMR has confirmed they still need to make some updates before Rich and his team can provide meaningful FFB tuning advice. See below.

View attachment 1494502
Oh.. expectations are very low right now. I've mostly concluded that this will sit on the shelf until it's either good or it's a collectible as the worst sim racing disaster of all time.
 
Keep expectations in check for PS5 for now...PMR has confirmed they still need to make some updates before Rich and his team can provide meaningful FFB tuning advice.

EDIT: FYI I've tried the FFB Rich has suggested, as well as other tinkering from other folks. G Pro still feels like a broken G923, with a very mechanical feel and an unpleasant handling model.

See below.

View attachment 1494502
I almost wonder if they already knew? I asked about the G Pro wheel and they really did their best to answer if trueforce was supported and if the wheel itself was or if it was utilizing G29 stuff from PC2 to work for the G Pro. Because the one YouTubers descriptions sounded like how the wheel feels in PC2. Which is G29 not G923 or G Pro support.
Oh.. expectations are very low right now. I've mostly concluded that this will sit on the shelf until it's either good or it's a collectible as the worst sim racing disaster of all time.
Maybe like E.T? I don’t think it’ll be that bad haha. I do hope they came save it. But until they do, I’m keeping my $135.
 
Reminds me of the xbox 360 game "Too Human" which had a similar lead up with an eerily similar studio figurehead, Dennis Dyak from silicon knights studio who made all kikds of promises.

Supposed to be a ground breaking game that released to poor reviews. Studio ended up losing a lawsuit to epic games, forced to destroy all assets and delist the game and subsequently went bankrupt.

Was highly collectible until it went free on Xbox 1 digital store.
 
I still don't have access to the console versions, I'm afraid, and at this point I'm running out of time to get anything tested before my next lot of travel - I'm going to be away for the first two weeks of December.

Here's the in-game for the PC version using RS50:
View attachment 1494498
For the RS50 that was running at 8Nm, Filter at 14, Dampener at OFF and TF Audio at 100.

I wonder if people might benefit from increasing the Load Boost setting that's in the Tyre and Chassis section of the car setup screen?
Still totally broken. Something has to be extremely wrong with the FFB on the logi pro and ps5. It's actively pulling to one side or another even when going straight with occasional sharp jerks both ways. Oddly it seems to be worse in cockpit view compared to hood view.

I give up.
 
Watch out if you buy the gt 310 from https://maxpapisinc.com/product-cat...racing/sim-racing-wheels/logitech-rswheelhub/

Mine isn’t properly drilled the outer screws. The plastic piece bulges out on all 3 sides and the wheel is loose. Customer service told me to push down. I pushed as hard as I could hurt my hand and nothing. The screws just fall out and can’t be attached. Lame company. Too bad Logitech partnered with them. It makes Logitech look bad. My momo rims were flawless by the way. Screwed in nice and smooth.
Reached out to their customer service. They repaired the wheel. It mounts more solid now but still has the bulging. Gonna test it tonight. Seems like a reasonable fix. The only odd part is they sent me new shorter outer screws for the base. The Logitech screws appear longer. I wonder if @LOGI_Rich can weigh in on the outer screws and length. Is it cool to use 3rd party screws. Does Logitech know about this MPI flaw?
 
Hey! I recently changed the way I configure my G Pro within GT7. In the past, I'd max out the strength on the wheel and set the game to about 4-5. This worked, but the jumps between settings (3-4-5-6) were massive. It was impossible to increase or decrease the strength by a little.

I changed my approach to setting the game to max strength (10) and setting the wheel to usually around 5-6Nm. This works great and makes small adjustments super predictable and easy to make.

The only issue with this approach is that the game always boots up with the max wheel strength applied. To fix this I just need to change something on the wheel. Switching profiles is enough.
❓ Was this issue addressed with a firmware update recently? I haven't updated mine in a while and don't really want to update it unless I need to. Outside of this super minor thing, the wheel works great.
 
@Mumster every third party who makes their own wheels might need to find their own ways to work around their specific designs and how it attaches to the Wheel Hub.

@dude0702 this is how GT7 has always operated - they always set their in game values on startup.
 
@LOGI_Rich Perhaps this is already asked if so, my apologies. Currently only two leds on the Pro wheel blink when you reach max RPM in GT7. I think that it would be more visible that all the leds on the wheel blink at the same time when you reach RPM limit. That would make it more easy to notice in your vision. I looked in GHUB but can't adjust that. Is this something that is regulated by the game developers?
 
@dude0702 this is how GT7 has always operated - they always set their in game values on startup.
Oh! Interesting! In that case... I guess I could also "solve" the issue by turning on the whee after I boot up the game? Currently, I turn on the wheel first and start the game using the wheel.
 
@Mumster every third party who makes their own wheels might need to find their own ways to work around their specific designs and how it attaches to the Wheel Hub.

@dude0702 this is how GT7 has always operated - they always set their in game values on startup.
Thanks. That’s good to know. Got 3 wheel hubs and the pro D now. My wife thinks I’m crazy lol.
 
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Reached out to their customer service. They repaired the wheel. It mounts more solid now but still has the bulging. Gonna test it tonight. Seems like a reasonable fix. The only odd part is they sent me new shorter outer screws for the base. The Logitech screws appear longer. I wonder if @LOGI_Rich can weigh in on the outer screws and length. Is it cool to use 3rd party screws. Does Logitech know about this MPI flaw?

Tried the MPI GT310 for the first time last night and used it for my Daily Race C quali. In the GR.3 car it felt snappy. The TRUEFORCE was giving me a ton of detail, could really feel when the tires were starting to slip. The 310mm size just feels right for GR.3. The rim feels solid and the grip is great. The Momo 320 actually matched the meta car a little better for me, but in the WRX the GT310 felt really good.
 
Tried the MPI GT310 for the first time last night and used it for my Daily Race C quali. In the GR.3 car it felt snappy. The TRUEFORCE was giving me a ton of detail, could really feel when the tires were starting to slip. The 310mm size just feels right for GR.3. The rim feels solid and the grip is great. The Momo 320 actually matched the meta car a little better for me, but in the WRX the GT310 felt really good.
Both the GT310 and GT320 wheels are on sale right now. I pulled the trigger on both.
 
Both the GT310 and GT320 wheels are on sale right now. I pulled the trigger on both.
I think you will be pleased.

Not to try to tempt you but the momo sim racer GT 290 is also on sale 😂 and also a very nice wheel for the open wheel cars among others. I love all the wheels I have so far. The Logitech Pro D wheel holds up well too among it’s cousins. I would love to see some classic huge wooden wheels too for the really old cars. With the H-shifter coming, removing the paddles from the wheel hub would be sweet driving a classic early 1900’s cars for authenticity. Can’t wait for the shifter.
 
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We haven't changed the Pro settings recently - it's always been 10. What we will be doing when we get around to updating them is similar to the RS50 settings where we call out Gr.x vs. non-Gr.x. For Gr.x in-game recommendation is usually around 5, whereas for anything else it's 10.

As always though, it's just a recommendation - nothing more, nothing less.
 
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