Motor City Tunes GT6

Hello Hami, I'll never thank you enough for your tuning guide, it's like my tuning bible :bowdown:. If you have the time, could you answer these questions please.
1. I'm trying to tune the Stratos '73, while tuning the LSD, I could never get rid of the outside tire spin, even with the Accel.Sens. set to 5, is there a solution? Am I testing it wrong? (tested on SpeedRing,BrandHatch,Rome,WillowSprings)
( I know this car is difficult, I figured it would be a good way of learning more about tunings before trying the Cizeta)

2. Do you have a suggestion for a track to test the Decel.Sens, an easy track? (I'm using Willow Springs)

3. I'm also working on a RUF CTR2 '96, even on comfort hards I have trouble making the wheels turn red so that I can adjust the LSD, also there is a Torq.-Center-Diff. that can be adjusted, should this be done first?

4. I'd like to know where you tested your MX-5 SR-Limited '97, I want to try and tune one and see where I make my mistakes.

I've just finished my FF Ride-Height tests, my fastest lap times were done by having the front end higher.
Thanks and have a good day:cheers:.
 
Hello Motor City Hami. I first off wanna thank you for the endless knowledge and tunes you have given me these last 7/8 months. Started playing GT with gt5 back in august 13' … Im not very familiar with tuning or racing physics so i hit the jackpot when i stumbled across your tuning guides. Been using them ever since. So again thank you.

So hey my question is…. i found this on GT vault about LSD, what are your thoughts?

...the initial strength of the LSD affect.LSD is useless on cars with less than 450hp. There isn't enough HP in the car to cause wheel spin anyway. So why have it, as it slows the car down and causes extra understeer….

http://www.gtvault.com/gt5/tuning-guide/
 
Hello Hami, I'll never thank you enough for your tuning guide, it's like my tuning bible :bowdown:. If you have the time, could you answer these questions please.
1. I'm trying to tune the Stratos '73, while tuning the LSD, I could never get rid of the outside tire spin, even with the Accel.Sens. set to 5, is there a solution? Am I testing it wrong? (tested on SpeedRing,BrandHatch,Rome,WillowSprings)
( I know this car is difficult, I figured it would be a good way of learning more about tunings before trying the Cizeta)

2. Do you have a suggestion for a track to test the Decel.Sens, an easy track? (I'm using Willow Springs)

3. I'm also working on a RUF CTR2 '96, even on comfort hards I have trouble making the wheels turn red so that I can adjust the LSD, also there is a Torq.-Center-Diff. that can be adjusted, should this be done first?

4. I'd like to know where you tested your MX-5 SR-Limited '97, I want to try and tune one and see where I make my mistakes.

I've just finished my FF Ride-Height tests, my fastest lap times were done by having the front end higher.
Thanks and have a good day:cheers:.

1. Some cars are just a pain. Accel at 5 may be all you can do with that adjustment. I would try these things:
- Higher LSD initial torque in an attempt to lock both wheels together.
-Try to keep weight from leaning to the outside or dropping to the nose
A.) Rear adjustments (high rear swaybar, low rear damper compression, high rear damper extension, softer rear springs).
B.) Front adjustments (higher front swaybar, high front damper compression, low front damper extension, stiffer front springs)

2. Grand Valley East reverse. At the end of the long straight there is a left hand corner that is taken at speed followed by another left that requires braking and turn in all at the same time. With using just those two corners, you can test LSD decel in combination with brake balance.

3. 4WD tuning remains a bit of a mystery to me so far in GT6. I can make the good, but not great yet. Try starting with these LSD settings.
Front LSD 12/15/7
Rear LSD 10/12/5
Torque Split 35/65
Also, you may have to test with really hard tires, like Comfort hard? Again, I have not fully mastered 4wd in GT6. I did just try the ride height glitch on a 4wd tonight and it worked (140 front/75 rear). Worth a try.

4. MX-5, was at Silverstone Gran Prix. It has camber so it is one of my first tunes. A better tune would be the Miata Touring Car. I also tuned that at Silverstone Gran Prix. It is my most recent tune so it used all of the tricks that I know except for my new testing around the ride height glitch. Plus that car is super fun to drive.
 
Hello Motor City Hami. I first off wanna thank you for the endless knowledge and tunes you have given me these last 7/8 months. Started playing GT with gt5 back in august 13' … Im not very familiar with tuning or racing physics so i hit the jackpot when i stumbled across your tuning guides. Been using them ever since. So again thank you.

So hey my question is…. i found this on GT vault about LSD, what are your thoughts?



http://www.gtvault.com/gt5/tuning-guide/

Thank you for the compliment. Below is my theory on the LSD from my tuning guide. I use the LSD on all cars, even 400PP level.

Limited Slip Differential - Through my GT6 testing, I am seeing that the LSD works the same as it did in GT5. Here is the description that I wrote in my GT5 garage. This theory is still working very well for me in GT6. Just thought I would share another perspective.

LSD Accel: This setting has one purpose, to manage inside and outside wheel spin. If the inside wheel spins first, raise this setting. If the outside wheel spins first, lower this setting. Most often the tire in need of help will turn red upon throttle application from the corner apex. Sometimes, a car will get loose on you, but neither tire turns red. In this case, put two or three levels harder tires on the car and mash the throttle in the slow, 2nd gear corners and you should be able to find which tire turns red first. Keep adjusting until both drive tires spin at the same time and this setting will be optimized. On a few cars, you will find a situation where one click higher will make the outside tire turn just a little red and one click lower will make the inside tire a little red. On these rare cars, you cannot fully optimize this setting and will need to choose one.In GT6 I am noticing nearly identical settings as I used in GT5 (8 to 20 - never seen a car need higher than this).

LSD Decel: This setting has one purpose, to manage stability under braking, turn-in and when coasting. If your car is loose (oversteer) in these situations, raise this setting. If your car has understeer during these conditions, lower this setting. Nearly all of my under 550PP street car tunes have settings between 5 and 7. On pure race cars like LMP cars, JGTC, FGT, F1, 2J, etc., I run much higher decel settings.In GT6, the setting works the same way, but I am noticing many cars need higher settings than what I used in GT5. For example, on any Miata in GT5 I used a decel setting of 5. I have tested seven Miata in GT6 and they are ranging from 9 to 22 at the moment.

LSD Initial Torque: This setting determines how much power is needed to activate the diff, to make it lock. What this means in GT5 is that a higher number produces more understeer and a lower number produces more oversteer. It is that simple. Since the 2.09 update this characteristic is more pronounced and even more noticeable from apex to exit.

The LSD does not add or subtract acceleration. The LSD cannot send more or less power to the drive train. The LSD can only distribute the given amount of power to each of the drive wheels. I see many on this site confuse the LSD with slipper clutches. This must come from R/C off road racing where slipper clutches are popular. In R/C racing a sipper clutch is added as a bolt on to the drive train and will actually slip as power is applied and grip in the higher revs to keep the rear wheels from spinning. There is still an LSD in those gear boxes and they are not set up to slip. They are set up to do the only job of the LSD, to distribute power from side to side under acceleration and braking. If you set them up to slip, they melt. Same goes for real world, if your LSD slips, it melts. Heat is the #1 enemy of an LSD. This is why we have traction control in the real world and in GT5. Traction control limits power through the drive train to the wheels, not the LSD.
 
2. Grand Valley East reverse. At the end of the long straight there is a left hand corner that is taken at speed followed by another left that requires braking and turn in all at the same time. With using just those two corners, you can test LSD decel in combination with brake balance.

Interesting tip.

So hey my question is…. i found this on GT vault about LSD, what are your thoughts?

http://www.gtvault.com/gt5/tuning-guide/

They are talking about GT3/4 on that page; I didn't really do tuning on those games but I have found GT6 'diff setup is one of the most important aspects to get right, at any HP/pp level. Maybe they used Race Tyres or something? That is not to say some of the default diff setups are not effective, by the way.

Hami's guide has been really helpful for me; if you are unsure - the best thing is simply to try a tune with stock and with tuned diff. Do bear in mind, though, that you can screw up the handling with bad settings. I know :lol:
 
1. Some cars are just a pain. Accel at 5 may be all you can do with that adjustment. I would try these things:
- Higher LSD initial torque in an attempt to lock both wheels together.
-Try to keep weight from leaning to the outside or dropping to the nose
A.) Rear adjustments (high rear swaybar, low rear damper compression, high rear damper extension, softer rear springs).
B.) Front adjustments (higher front swaybar, high front damper compression, low front damper extension, stiffer front springs)

2. Grand Valley East reverse. At the end of the long straight there is a left hand corner that is taken at speed followed by another left that requires braking and turn in all at the same time. With using just those two corners, you can test LSD decel in combination with brake balance.

3. 4WD tuning remains a bit of a mystery to me so far in GT6. I can make the good, but not great yet. Try starting with these LSD settings.
Front LSD 12/15/7
Rear LSD 10/12/5
Torque Split 35/65
Also, you may have to test with really hard tires, like Comfort hard? Again, I have not fully mastered 4wd in GT6. I did just try the ride height glitch on a 4wd tonight and it worked (140 front/75 rear). Worth a try.

4. MX-5, was at Silverstone Gran Prix. It has camber so it is one of my first tunes. A better tune would be the Miata Touring Car. I also tuned that at Silverstone Gran Prix. It is my most recent tune so it used all of the tricks that I know except for my new testing around the ride height glitch. Plus that car is super fun to drive.
Thanks again, bringing up the initial torque is what I had found that sort of helped, I had also brought down the rear spring rate but I hadn't tried changing the damper compression/extension. I'll need time to digest all this information. I'm going to try Grand Valley East for the Decel.Sens. and brake settings. Also I will try to tune the Mx5 Touring, I wanted to master regular car tunings before trying cars that have down force added to the equation. As for the RUF CTR, I'll put it on hold for now, I just started a project with 'seb15000' , two touring cars, so working on the MX5 will certainly help me. Thank you for your time and help, TurnLeft.:cheers:
 
Finally got around to reading all of your tuning guide. Really really excellent work, very interesting stuff:tup:

I don't know much about tuning, only the basics really. The part that really interested me was the gain/pp ratio gains for the different tuning parts. I have a few quick questions that may seem "noobish" to you but I would really appreciate your answers:

Have you tested with adding Turbo's (stage 1,2,3) and calculating their gain/pp's?

Does it matter the exact order in which you add the parts? For example does adding cat converter, race exhaust and stage 3 engine tune produce a different result to adding those parts in the reverse order?

If instead of having a PP limit to tune to you have a set of hp/weight restrictions to work within (i.e 300hp, 1200kg) is it overall the best idea to only fit the best gain/pp parts? Or is it better to just add every tuning part then meet the regulations by using the power limiter and/or adding ballast?

I think that when you add certain parts like racing exhausts this also increases the max rpm your car can achieve? Does having this effect make the part worth installing even if it has a low gain/pp ratio?

I always seem to achieve faster lap times when I use max downforce front and rear, but with many tunes I see that people aren't using max DF settings, particularly on the rear. Maybe my driving style is wrong (I am usually working with Racing tyres)? Can you offer me any insight into why tuners are using these settings when to me max DF is faster?

Many Thanks
 
Finally got around to reading all of your tuning guide. Really really excellent work, very interesting stuff:tup:

I don't know much about tuning, only the basics really. The part that really interested me was the gain/pp ratio gains for the different tuning parts. I have a few quick questions that may seem "noobish" to you but I would really appreciate your answers:

Have you tested with adding Turbo's (stage 1,2,3) and calculating their gain/pp's?

Does it matter the exact order in which you add the parts? For example does adding cat converter, race exhaust and stage 3 engine tune produce a different result to adding those parts in the reverse order?

If instead of having a PP limit to tune to you have a set of hp/weight restrictions to work within (i.e 300hp, 1200kg) is it overall the best idea to only fit the best gain/pp parts? Or is it better to just add every tuning part then meet the regulations by using the power limiter and/or adding ballast?

I think that when you add certain parts like racing exhausts this also increases the max rpm your car can achieve? Does having this effect make the part worth installing even if it has a low gain/pp ratio?

I always seem to achieve faster lap times when I use max downforce front and rear, but with many tunes I see that people aren't using max DF settings, particularly on the rear. Maybe my driving style is wrong (I am usually working with Racing tyres)? Can you offer me any insight into why tuners are using these settings when to me max DF is faster?

Many Thanks

I did do some examples with turbos and in every case they were less efficient than engine parts.

I do not know about order of installation. I have not seen a difference.

I usually prefer to build for hp (parts only and very little power limiting) vs. building for torque (max everything then use heavy limiting. The torque numbers look outstanding when you build for torque, but I have not seen it turn into faster lap times.

If you can get a car to rotate using max downforce, then it should be faster. The challenge is that many cars will not turn sharply enough and lowering downforce is a way to get these cars to rotate.
 
Finally got around to reading all of your tuning guide. Really really excellent work, very interesting stuff:tup:

I don't know much about tuning, only the basics really. The part that really interested me was the gain/pp ratio gains for the different tuning parts. I have a few quick questions that may seem "noobish" to you but I would really appreciate your answers:

Have you tested with adding Turbo's (stage 1,2,3) and calculating their gain/pp's?

Does it matter the exact order in which you add the parts? For example does adding cat converter, race exhaust and stage 3 engine tune produce a different result to adding those parts in the reverse order?

If instead of having a PP limit to tune to you have a set of hp/weight restrictions to work within (i.e 300hp, 1200kg) is it overall the best idea to only fit the best gain/pp parts? Or is it better to just add every tuning part then meet the regulations by using the power limiter and/or adding ballast?

I think that when you add certain parts like racing exhausts this also increases the max rpm your car can achieve? Does having this effect make the part worth installing even if it has a low gain/pp ratio?

I always seem to achieve faster lap times when I use max downforce front and rear, but with many tunes I see that people aren't using max DF settings, particularly on the rear. Maybe my driving style is wrong (I am usually working with Racing tyres)? Can you offer me any insight into why tuners are using these settings when to me max DF is faster?

Many Thanks
Tree'd by the boss.

The PDF I made here is how I approached the best parts for a hp and weight challenge, and from that point, some test driving should give an idea on what is more effective.

Yes, when certain parts are added, max rpm goes up. The ones that don't affect it are Isometric Exhaust Manifold, Sports Intake Tuning, Turbo's and Supercharger.

I have not done much testing with Turbo's or downforce.

I hope this helps.:)
 
I usually prefer to build for hp (parts only and very little power limiting) vs. building for torque (max everything then use heavy limiting. The torque numbers look outstanding when you build for torque, but I have not seen it turn into faster lap times.

But if you have a limit to the bhp you can work with then having more torque will always make the car faster right?

For example I testing my BMW 300i around Apricott Hill @300bhp 1300kg, fitted with just sports cat and engine stage 2. Then when I put every power part on and reduced the limiter, the max torque amount went up by about 9 kgfm and I was instantly much quicker down the straights than my ghost.
 
But if you have a limit to the bhp you can work with then having more torque will always make the car faster right?

For example I testing my BMW 300i around Apricott Hill @300bhp 1300kg, fitted with just sports cat and engine stage 2. Then when I put every power part on and reduced the limiter, the max torque amount went up by about 9 kgfm and I was instantly much quicker down the straights than my ghost.
Not always is the most torque the fastest. Take a classic muscle car for example, it has high torque causing it to loose traction easier. If you can get your driving and peak power and torque to line up in a good range, then yes you can get a lot better time with more torque.
 
Love the guide @Motor City Hami, any time a car is misbehaving I always come back here and reread it.

I have an odd problem, I was wondering if I could get some tips on. It's on the GT500 Supra.
I started with @praiano63 's tune and adjusted to my style from there. I feel it's handling really well, right where I want it. The only problem is the tires never get up to temp, especially the rears.

Then this new update drops and you always start on warm tires, good times right? Well for the 1st lap or two anyway, sure, but they still cool down to barely not cold. And those two properly warm tire laps really make me want more of them.

So I guess my question is, are there any adjustments I can make that will help my tires warm up with out drastically effecting the handling of the car?
 
I read your suspention guide ... just amazing ... I'm working on a setup for a championship and you guide has been very helpful ... thanks... keep working... many players appreciate that....
 
Mazda MX-5 Miata VR-Limited (NA,J) '95
372PP, 135 hp, 950 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

13258143753_b3d988f6cd_z.jpg


This tune was built as my test tune for the FITT Miata Tuner Challenge. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fitt-miata-tuning-challenge.303511/ I needed a tune built to the competition specs so that I could learn the new track Streets of Willow Springs prior to test driving for all of the entered tunes.

Pit Service

Front Aero A
Paint: Spirited Green Metallic
Rims: 1 inch up OZ
Installed Parts
Comfort Soft Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Standard Brakes
Five-Speed Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Standard Clutch & Flywheel
Standard Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Exhaust
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

13258354014_a6918ede02_z.jpg


Tune
Ride Height 120/90
Springs 5.00/5.25
Dampers Compression 2/4
Dampers Extension 5/2
Anti-Roll Bars 3/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.02/0.02
Brake balance 6/8
LSD 7/5/9
Power Level 90.1%
Ballast 93
Ballast Position -16
Weight Distribution 52/48

Transmission
Five-Speed non-adjustable
1st gear 2.750
2nd gear 1.866
3rd gear 1.356
4th gear 1.041
5th gear 0.843
Top Speed 137
Final gear 4.300
 
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Corvette Z06 (C2) Race Car '63
580 PP, 599 hp, 1168 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

13683847164_e58ec83506_z.jpg


This car is a handful to tune. The LSD is super important and a bit finicky. I do not often use improved body rigidity, but it helps this car greatly at mid-corner. Without it, the car sort of flops over mid corner and goes from slight understeer to massive oversteer. With it, the tune is much more smooth all the way through the corner. You also need to spend a lot of time figuring out how to control weight transfer. Dampers and ARB settings are powerful on this car - more powerful than on most cars in GT6. One click in either direction on dampers and ARBs is a significant change.

Another notable item is that once I was able to tame the car a bit, it was either understeer and controllable or oversteer and hold onto something. No settings seemed to help find the sweet spot through the whole corner until I added back the ride height glitch. I thought that on a car that is so out of control that I would need to use the reverse ride height glitch and I did not. There is something weird about ride height.

I tuned at Silverstone then took the car to Willow Springs. It is pretty good at Silverstone and even better at Willow Springs. I think I was able to take this car from completely tail happy spin-out king to a more fun drive. Is it fast? Meh? Faster than stock, yes, but still not the fastest muscle car available. I recommend this car for some fun in A-spec races, but it probably won't win too many 600 PP muscle car challenges.
Pit Service
Improved Body Rigidity

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Standard Clutch & Flywheel
Standard Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage Standard
Computer Standard
Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Standard
Intake Standard
Turbo Kit Normal
Weight Reduction Standard
Carbon Hood Standard
Window Weight Reduction Standard

Tune
Ride Height 90/70
Springs 15.50/12.00
Dampers Compression 4/2
Dampers Extension 5/5
Anti-Roll Bars 6/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.06/0.18
Brake balance 6/4
LSD 15/8/35
Power Level 100%
Ballast 0
Ballast Position 0
Downforce 500/550
Weight Distribution 48:52

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Max Speed to 124 (never touch again)
1st gear 2.900
2nd gear 1.950
3rd gear 1.465
4th gear 1.180
5th gear 1.000
Final gear 3.700 (adjust this to hit red line at the end of the longest straight)
 
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Corvette Stingray Racer Concept '59
500 PP, 395 hp, 1150 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

13683539183_44d323ed1d_z.jpg


Same as the '63 Corvette tune directly above this, I tuned at Silverstone then took the car to Willow Springs. I tried tuning this car in the first month that GT6 came out and absolutely hated it. Now that I have decoded more of how tuning works in GT6, I think I have fixed this car. I have no clue how I will use this car in racing events, but it has become so fun to drive that I just don't care. You must drive this car using the interior view. It looks so cool and sounds so good. Drive this car just for the pure joy of driving. There are plenty of muscle cars that are faster, but few so fun.

The car still has one bad habit that you have to be ready for. It does not like trail braking. Do most of your braking in a straight line with just a touch of trail braking at the end. It gets loose on entry as you release the brakes. I have tuned much of the condition out of the car, but over do corner entry and it will bite you.

Pit Service

Improved Body Rigidity

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch & Flywheel
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Exhaust Manifold Standard
Catalytic Converter Sports
Intake Standard
Supercharger Normal
Weight Reduction Standard
Carbon Hood Standard
Window Weight Reduction Standard

Tune
Ride Height 80/77
Springs 8.00/5.00
Dampers Compression 5/3
Dampers Extension 6/6
Anti-Roll Bars 7/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.08/0.22
Brake balance 5/2
LSD 13/7/45
Power Level 98.1%
Ballast 0
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 50:50

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Max Speed to 112 (never touch again)
1st gear 2.900
2nd gear 1.950
3rd gear 1.455
4th gear 1.175
5th gear 1.000
Final gear 3.700 (adjust this to hit red line at the end of the longest straight)
 
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Subaru BRZ GT300
510 PP, 345 hp, 1150 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

13683844054_2145430c20_z.jpg


Absolutely love this car! Easily won the International A Super GT300 Championship.

Pit Service
Paint: Lime Light

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Standard Clutch & Flywheel
Standard Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage Standard
Standard Computer
Racing Exhaust
Exhaust Manifold Standard
Catalytic Converter Standard
Intake Standard
Turbo Kit Normal
Weight Reduction Standard
Carbon Hood Standard
Window Weight Reduction Standard

Tune
Ride Height 70/55
Springs 16.75/15.75
Dampers Compression 3/4
Dampers Extension 5/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.05/0.02
Brake balance 6/6
LSD 13/12/12
Power Level 100%
Downforce 350/450
Ballast 0
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 53:47

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Max Speed to 112 (never touch again)
1st gear 2.800
2nd gear 2.000
3rd gear 1.575
4th gear 1.299
5th gear 1.110
6th gear 0.975
Final gear 3.800 (adjust this to hit red line at the end of the longest straight)
 
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I have only posted about 25% of the tunes that I have used. I think it is time to post everything that I have used to win the A-Spec races. Some of these are really refined and others were used for just a handful of races.
Let it flow... :)👍 people will have fun for sure. GT6 is for fisherman tuners like me. Did you play AC yet?????
This is a challenge for me... Sure you´ll be home with this game.... to play with settings only. The rest is weak comparing to GT, but the physics...:cheers:
 
Mazda RX-7 Touring Car
616 PP, 662 hp, 975 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

13683535023_9bce8f69f2_z.jpg


Another one of my favorites.

Pit Service

Paint: Spirited Green Metallic
OZ Racing Superforgiata rims

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Standard Clutch & Flywheel
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Standard Computer
Racing Exhaust
Exhaust Manifold Standard
Catalytic Converter Standard
Intake Standard
Turbo Kit High RPM
Weight Reduction Standard
Carbon Hood Standard
Window Weight Reduction Standard

Tune
Ride Height 78/58
Springs 12.80/14.00
Dampers Compression 3/4
Dampers Extension 5/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.10/0.00
Brake balance 6/6
LSD 11/14/11
Power Level 100%
Downforce 350/400
Ballast 0
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 50:50

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Max Speed to 124 (never touch again)
1st gear 3.200
2nd gear 2.200
3rd gear 1.690
4th gear 1.370
5th gear 0.165
6th gear 1.025
Final gear 3.300 (adjust this to hit red line at the end of the longest straight)
 
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Let it flow... :)👍 people will have fun for sure. GT6 is for fisherman tuners like me. Did you play AC yet?????
This is a challenge for me... Sure you´ll be home with this game.... to play with settings only. The rest is weak comparing to GT, but the physics...:cheers:

Assetto Corsa? No I have not played yet.

I tend to worry about posting a less refined tune. For example, I did about six versions of the Yellow Bird in GT5 but never posted a single one. I think I may even go back to GT5 and finish a Yellow Bird? I need to just put out here what I use and just note how much time I spent with it.
 
BMW M3 Coupe Chrome Line
550 PP, 592 hp, 1400 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

13683846454_cbf8883ece_z.jpg


Fast car, not fully refined yet.

Tuning and Maintenance
Front Aero Kit Type A
Rear Wing A
Paint: Spirited Green Metallic
OZ Racing Superforgiata rims 1 inch up

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch & Flywheel
Standard Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter Sports
Intake Tuning
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood (Body Color)
Window Weight Reduction Standard

Tune
Ride Height 105/80
Springs 5.00/8.00
Dampers Compression 2/4
Dampers Extension 6/3
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.10/0.05
Brake balance 6/5
LSD 11/9/14
Power Level 100%
Downforce 0/5
Ballast 24 kg
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 50:50

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Max Speed to 124 (never touch again)
1st gear 3.400
2nd gear 2.400
3rd gear 1.840
4th gear 1.500
5th gear 1.275
6th gear 1.120
Final gear 3.500 (adjust this to hit red line at the end of the longest straight)
 
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Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X Rally Car
616 PP, 662 hp, 975 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

13683844694_08dec70f5a_z.jpg


Tune request for a racing series.

Pit Service
Paint: Rally Green Metallic

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Standard Clutch & Flywheel
Carbon Drive Shaft
Torque-Distributing Center Differential
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Standard Computer
Racing Exhaust
Exhaust Manifold Standard
Catalytic Converter Standard
Intake Standard
Turbo Kit High RPM
Weight Reduction Standard
Carbon Hood Standard
Window Weight Reduction Standard

Tune
Ride Height 140/70
Springs 8.50/10.00
Dampers Compression 3/9
Dampers Extension 10/4
Anti-Roll Bars 2/7
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.25/-0.38
Brake balance 4/8
LSD Front 20/5/9
LSD Rear 15/16/7
F/R Torque Split 42:58
Power Level 100%
Downforce 150/180
Ballast 0
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 58:42

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Max Speed to 112 (never touch again)
1st gear 3.100
2nd gear 2.200
3rd gear 1.740
4th gear 1.450
5th gear 1.245
6th gear 1.100
Final gear 3.550 (adjust this to hit red line at the end of the longest straight)
 
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Renault Sport Megane Trophy Base Model '11
550 PP, 474 hp, 955 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

13683535813_0689ba82ec_z.jpg


This car is just cool to drive. I plan to come back to this car later and find those last few tenths. Right now it should be competitive.

Pit Service
Paint: Spirited Green Metallic

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch & Flywheel
Standard Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Standard Computer
Racing Exhaust
Exhaust Manifold Standard
Catalytic Converter Standard
Intake Standard
Weight Reduction Standard
Carbon Hood Standard
Window Weight Reduction Standard

Tune
Ride Height 70/60
Springs 11.00/13.25
Dampers Compression 3/4
Dampers Extension 7/3
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.17/0.12
Brake balance 6/4
LSD 12/8/27
Power Level 98.2%
Downforce 50/80
Ballast 0
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 48:52

Transmission
Final Gear to 6.000
Max Speed to 112 (never touch again)
1st gear 2.850
2nd gear 2.000
3rd gear 1.555
4th gear 1.280
5th gear 0.100
6th gear 0.975
Final gear 3.500 (adjust this to hit red line at the end of the longest straight)
 
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BMW Concept 1 Series tii '07
480 PP, 326 hp, 1300 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

13683494695_791b7140d3_z.jpg


Fast car, not fully refined yet.

Tuning and Maintenance
Paint: GT6 Matte 014

Installed Parts
Sport Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch & Flywheel
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage Standard
Standard Computer
Racing Exhaust
Standard Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter Standard
Intake Standard
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood Standard
Window Weight Reduction

Tune
Ride Height 95/80
Springs 6.25/8.25
Dampers Compression 3/3
Dampers Extension 6/3
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.12/0.05
Brake balance 6/5
LSD 12/10/9
Power Level 97.0%
Ballast 79 kg
Ballast Position 10
Weight Distribution 50:50

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.000
Max Speed to 112 (never touch again)
1st gear 2.800
2nd gear 2.000
3rd gear 1.555
4th gear 1.270
5th gear 1.080
6th gear 0.950
Final gear 4.000 (adjust this to hit red line at the end of the longest straight)
 
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Mustang Boss 302 '13
550 PP, 574 hp, 1400 kg
Paint: Gotta Have It Green Metallic Tri Coat/Black Stripes

11262675053_3140236d99_z.jpg

Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

Tuning and Maintenance
None

Installed Parts
Sport Soft Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Standard Exhaust Manifold
Sports Catalytic Converter
Intake Standard
Supercharger Standard

Tune
RH 125/80
Springs 8.00/12.00
Dampers Compression 2/5
Dampers Extension 7/3
Anti-Roll Bars 2/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.05/-0.15
Brake balance 4/6
LSD 10/14/7
Power Level 96.9%
Ballast 81
Ballast Position 50
Weight Distribution 52:48

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 124
1st gear 3.150
2nd gear 2.110
3rd gear 1.625
4th gear 1.310
5th gear 1.100
6th gear 0.950
Final gear 4.000
 
Hello hami

Since you come from a real racing background do you think that the introduction of the data logger is beneficial to car setups process? If yes . Can we benefit from your excellent tutoring skills to learn it's implementations?
 
Hello hami

Since you come from a real racing background do you think that the introduction of the data logger is beneficial to car setups process? If yes . Can we benefit from your excellent tutoring skills to learn it's implementations?

I will surely be looking at it. I have not downloaded 1.06 yet. Is the data logger exactly the same as in GT5 or are there some improvements? I tried using it in GT5, but gains/losses were so minimal it was difficult to see your efforts.

I will, for sure, be breaking that down.


Great to see the new tunes! It's a shame everything needs its nose in the air to corner--the photos look ridiculous on some of my cars. I hope they fix this soon.

I agree. I hate the nose up look. In my opinion, it kills some of the realism and PDs ability to continue to market GT as "The Real Driving Simulator." But oh well. The trick works to get cars to rotate so if you want to be fast, you will have to figure out which cars need it and which do not. At least it is not max/min. There is still some art left for tuning. If it were simply max/min, I would be done with the GT titles.

Oh, and plenty more tunes and photos coming this week.
 
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