need some help with my car

H

hondalife23

5
hey im new to the gt world i wanted to know how i can get my 95 civic sir eg to perform better i have all the parts my best1/4 mile time is 13.9 is there anyway i can improve with out nos if so please explane

thanks
 
I'm no expert but try looking at the increase in hp when upgrding the perfomance of your car. And dont forget to add handling upgrades such as bracks, always skip weight reduction.
 
Waiwaiwai...

Did I just read "skip weight reduction"?????


No.

Anyhow, if the car's fully modded and is having trouble hooking, add some ballast to the nose.

And if you want an all rounder, visit one of the tuner garages, do a review, and request it.
 
Yep yep yep, a circuit car will be done by any one of the tuner garages on request after you review one of their cars first.
 
So there you go hondalife23, head on over to the tuning section of this site and you'll get whatever help you need.
 
Yeah, but he asked here and used his 1/4 mile time as a reference fools so go play in your own garages and hassle MFT. :P FF and 1/4 miles are my domain. :mischievous:

Now, here's the lowdown:
Before we start, how many k's are on the clock on this car?? '95 models are available as a 10.0km (6.2mile) example, if you can....buy that as you'll get more power out of it at the end.

Now, to the modifying part.
- Fit all parts, and if you can go to Tuner Garage to see if a Stage 5 turbo is available, it's almost priceless in helping you. The Civic can get a bore increase, so do it, it doesn't hurt it's capability to rev.
- Look at the tyres you're running. R5 tyres are the best but will die out quickly, only good for 1/4mile/1000m/max speed tests. For racing, a combo of R1/R3 front/rear usually work well.
- Gear your car so it will hit 6th gear just before the 900m mark, and look for around a 280km/h top speed for it to keep accelerating decently but don't set your 1st gear too high so you can't accelerate away quickly.
- Suspension wise, for a starter pack just stick to 50/50 of what the extremes of the car are then adjust to learn what works for the car. So 9.0/9.0 spring rate
middle height
5/5 bound
5/5 rebound
2.0/1.0 camber
0/0 toe
4/4 stability.

There's other tricks for acceleration tests involving the ballast and downforce and that but I'll let the tuner clubs take care of all those details. Search for Aussie Tuners, RRV or MFT. They'll take care of ya.

Mafs!!
 
Well that was a little rude, RJ offered to help with 1/4mile times and you just told him where to start, he already started now what, see you haven't helped much yet at all, other than gearing roughly which is completely different on each car due to power band.
 
Apologies, didn't mean it to be rude N4HS. :) See, if you loved Ford's you wouldn't be so touchy. :lol:
I'm telling him the top speed and stuff because I HAVE several '95 EG's including one 10.0km example. 12.04 on the bottle, 12.98 off it & 280km/h top speed but that was just because I had 1 in GT3. I'll load up the MC and provide each ratio if you like to him. :sly:
 
Hah, if I loved Fords I may have started making threats as I'd be on edge about my favourite company dying- literally. Correct me if I'm wrong here but doesn't a high ride height improve 1/4 E.T.s.
 
Not with FWD. We want as little rearward weight transfer as possible, so we want the center of gravity as low as possible.
 
Rotary Junkie
Not with FWD. We want as little rearward weight transfer as possible, so we want the center of gravity as low as possible.
Click to expand...

So then what would happen if it were really high at the front and super low at the back? That would make jack all weight transfer from the front wouldn't it?
 
No, that would simply rip the weight off the fronts and make the wheelspin worse.

EDIT: I'm doing this. First pass, no nitrous was a 13.740.
 
We don't just want the centre of gravity as low as possible, we want it as much forward as possible RJ and N4HS. :) For any FWD I recommend a minimum of 75kg ballast with -50 balance and the front downforce to the max, some of the FWD's need the full 200kg.

Then lock the rear suspension very high so it doesn't have any weight transferred towards it on the launch and soften the front and lower it so it can handle the axle tramp from the front end and the air drag.....these things alone will chop tenths off your time. TCS also helps too.

I'm babysitting tonight, so I've got to wait till my son falls asleep before I can play again, but I'll post up a quick time of what I can do with it again. :)

Mafs!!
 
see now, THIS is why i dont use FWD.

Alternative suggestion: Sell it, and get an old-school skyline. aND WATCH YOUR 1/4 times fall, BOOYA!
 
Note the name "hondalife23".

He's got that car for a reason.

Of course, if you want ultimate 1/4 mile times, get a Subaru Spec C.

Stock Subaru Impreza STi Spec C+nitrous=quick as hell.
 
Good point, though ive been laying down some pretty respectable times in my gtr-vsec 97' my current best is and 8'712 with stock transmission!
 
Gotta correct Mafs on the front suspension. Softer front means the nose comes up more, stiffer and it comes up less.

EDIT: Down to a 12.169 with a 28k miler.
 
My Type R?

Hehe, that's a road course car.

Anyhow, I WILL crack 11's in an EG (Or almost kill myself trying). So, hondalife, if you would be so kind as to review a Rec'n'Race Vehicles tune, I will get at least a low-12 EG to you, if not an 11-second ride.

Link's in the sig. And I'll toss in a road course tune as well.
 
I realize that.

You build up one of our cars, (any of them) give a review (likes, dislikes, etc), and request a car, be it a Civic or an NSX, or a Group C.

If you give a review, I will build you a pair of Civics; a drag car and a road course car.
 
im gunning for an 11 sec in my eg civic, if i manage it (probably wont) ill let you know

Got a 12.660 im really running out of ideas on how to improve this.

Honda CIVIC SiR-II (EG) 91'
 
I think it may be stiffen compared to default racing setting (defaults about 4.x or something like that)....but it's still soft as!! I'm not giving up what exact specs are, but compared to what the limit is (18.0), it's very soft. :sly: Same with front bound/rebound settings, it's not what you expect but it works.

So long as the suspension isn't TOO high, then most of the weight is still on the tyres and the traction remains with my cars, I have a limit of what I set the front on the car so when it launches it doesn't get axle tramp which is the wheels lifting, not the body lifting due to the suspension on the front being too hard. You can see evidence of it in the replay runs from the front of the car as it passes the 1st camera.

Ballast, TCS and launch technique helps too.
 
I'll get 11s.

EDIT: Oh, yeah. The softer front suspension increases wheelhop. Bigtime.

And my car's got hop on the 3-4 and 4-5 shifts as it sits, softening the nose just made it worse.
 

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