New Thrustmaster T-GT owner - quick review as former G29 user.

  • Thread starter barkohba
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barkohba
So I finally got the Thrustmaster T-GT, after half a year of using the G29 (mostly on GTSport), and OMG, are there some very, VERY big differences.

The main difference, and the biggest, most crucial one is the FFB. Jumping over the technical data (better belt driven mechanism, a sub-woofer speaker in the back that transmits a lot of vibration and detail in the wheel column - works only on GTS - , etc), there is a NIGHT AND DAY difference, because basically, if you're using a G29 on GTS (regardless of FFB settings, i've tried all combinations) you SOMETIMES feel some curbs, once a day feel some bumps (barely), and get a slight ease of centering power when you lose your traction (but generally you get that feedback too late). With the T-GT, you feel everything, instantly, all the time. I'm talking car engine vibration, constant varying road surface detail, wheel flex and wheel traction, you're able to tell way sooner when the wheels are about to lose traction, you also get a generous wheel vibration when you're understeering, and so on.

Basically, if you're a G29 user, as far as FFB goes, you feel next to nothing in GTS (which is really a shame because in Assetto Corsa, PCars 2, F1 2017 you feel a lot, lot more detail and variation with that wheel). With the T-GT, you feel everything in a much more smooth and realistic way. IT is really fantastic and transformed GTSport for me from a great game with horrible lifeless feel, to a game that feels better than Assetto or PCars 2 with this wheel.

Another important difference is the break pedal and the way it works with GTS when using ABS off. In case you ever tried (with the G29), if you turn the ABS off, it's crazy tricky not to lock up the wheels instantly, to the point where it's almost useless (again, in AC and PC2, driving without ABS feels fine and it's realistically difficult to lock up the wheels, you've got to press hard and fast). Here, with the progressive pedal adjuster thingy (I adjusted mine by basically raising the rubber triangle at 1 cm), it's perfect - I can finally play GTS realistically (use cars like the old Ferraris and Cobra, etc without ABS and not die instantly, as well as, crucially "group 2" cars - SUPER GT500 - without ABS, as the cars in real life have no ABS and TC).

These 2 differences have transformed GTS for me, and made it worth every penny. It's also worth mentioning that the wheel feels better, has more useful buttons, and, crucially, is a bit bigger which makes for a more enjoyable experience in any game.


Hope my insights helped!
 
So I finally got the Thrustmaster T-GT, after half a year of using the G29 (mostly on GTSport), and OMG, are there some very, VERY big differences.

The main difference, and the biggest, most crucial one is the FFB. Jumping over the technical data (better belt driven mechanism, a sub-woofer speaker in the back that transmits a lot of vibration and detail in the wheel column - works only on GTS - , etc), there is a NIGHT AND DAY difference, because basically, if you're using a G29 on GTS (regardless of FFB settings, i've tried all combinations) you SOMETIMES feel some curbs, once a day feel some bumps (barely), and get a slight ease of centering power when you lose your traction (but generally you get that feedback too late). With the T-GT, you feel everything, instantly, all the time. I'm talking car engine vibration, constant varying road surface detail, wheel flex and wheel traction, you're able to tell way sooner when the wheels are about to lose traction, you also get a generous wheel vibration when you're understeering, and so on.

Basically, if you're a G29 user, as far as FFB goes, you feel next to nothing in GTS (which is really a shame because in Assetto Corsa, PCars 2, F1 2017 you feel a lot, lot more detail and variation with that wheel). With the T-GT, you feel everything in a much more smooth and realistic way. IT is really fantastic and transformed GTSport for me from a great game with horrible lifeless feel, to a game that feels better than Assetto or PCars 2 with this wheel.

Another important difference is the break pedal and the way it works with GTS when using ABS off. In case you ever tried (with the G29), if you turn the ABS off, it's crazy tricky not to lock up the wheels instantly, to the point where it's almost useless (again, in AC and PC2, driving without ABS feels fine and it's realistically difficult to lock up the wheels, you've got to press hard and fast). Here, with the progressive pedal adjuster thingy (I adjusted mine by basically raising the rubber triangle at 1 cm), it's perfect - I can finally play GTS realistically (use cars like the old Ferraris and Cobra, etc without ABS and not die instantly, as well as, crucially "group 2" cars - SUPER GT500 - without ABS, as the cars in real life have no ABS and TC).

These 2 differences have transformed GTS for me, and made it worth every penny. It's also worth mentioning that the wheel feels better, has more useful buttons, and, crucially, is a bit bigger which makes for a more enjoyable experience in any game.


Hope my insights helped!
T-GT wheel base is wonderful on GTS, but the pedals ruin everything. GT series No ABS control not that easy( almost impossible ) if you haven’t get a Heavy Resistance loadcell brake pedal. Luckily I got a CPX adapter few years ago so I can bine with Fanatec CSP v3i . This pedals can adjust the brake from original stock car soft with nice damper feeling to extremely stiff race car brake .With race car like setting , The no ABS control became much reasonable and practical. This equipment may not let you fast,but made the game much more immersive
 
I use now the TGT with Fanatec V3 Pedals with a CPX adapter...its like a perfect setup right now (but i would like to drive the CSL but the FFB I do not like right now in the current state)
 
Great review!

*currently browses online for a T-GT* :lol:

Unfortunately, as much as I'd like to it's just not in my price range at this present moment.
 
@barkohba thanks for sharing your impressions of the T-GT! It definitely sounds like Polyphony put a lot of effort into really making GTS awesome with that wheel.

Have you played any other racing games with the T-GT? Unfortunately, new wheels are not always supported well by older games, so I'm curious how it does with, for example, Project Cars 2 (it's not old, but got released before the T-GT came out) or F1 2017.
 
@barkohba ... some questions...
the color coded dials...
do they control the fuel map(green), brake bias(red), traction control(blue) and center diff(yellow) ???
L2 and R2... are those look left and look right respectively?

You review alone has me digging out my bank card...
 
Great to hear you are having such a good time with the wheel. However, screw PD. There is no reason all wheels should should not feel like you describe in GTS. Sadly they don’t and only one group of people are responsible. It’s outrageous when you think about it.
 
The only thing is now more wheel calibrating and setting .. even the controller has a adjustment for steering why not for wheels
 
@barkohba thanks for sharing your impressions of the T-GT! It definitely sounds like Polyphony put a lot of effort into really making GTS awesome with that wheel.

Have you played any other racing games with the T-GT? Unfortunately, new wheels are not always supported well by older games, so I'm curious how it does with, for example, Project Cars 2 (it's not old, but got released before the T-GT came out) or F1 2017.

Yes, it does. The T-GT has a switch button to switch its mode - Other or GT. When it's in GT, it uses all of the features, including the subwoofer on the back that sends vibrations and tire/surface detail down the steering column (exclusive for GT Sport) - whenever you want to play anything else (i've tested on PCars 2, Assetto Corsa and F1 2017) you have to swietch it to "Other". And even there the differences are very bigs - since it's a belt driven wheel vs a gear driven wheel with the G29. The FFB is MUCH MUCH stronger, and smoother. The manual says that when it's in the "other" mode - which should be used for anything else besides GT-S, including for PC-use, the PS4 recognizes it as a T300.

@barkohba ... some questions...
the color coded dials...
do they control the fuel map(green), brake bias(red), traction control(blue) and center diff(yellow) ???
L2 and R2... are those look left and look right respectively?

You review alone has me digging out my bank card...

Yeah, precisely. The green dial controls the fuel map, red-brake bias, blue - traction control, and yellow - center diff. L2 and R2 are for signaling turns. The wheels also has 2 analogue sticks just like the dual shock 4 which are used for looking around.

Great to hear you are having such a good time with the wheel. However, screw PD. There is no reason all wheels should should not feel like you describe in GTS. Sadly they don’t and only one group of people are responsible. It’s outrageous when you think about it.
I actually heard that the CSL ELITE has much much more detail than the G29. So there's rather an issue with the G29 implementation. Wheels like the T300, T-GT and Fanatec CSL ELITE have much more feeling.

We could go on for ages on how a Thrustmaster wheel is better than a G29 but what does it matter if it ends up having issues at some point? That's why I refuse to buy one.

I've read the statistiscs, indeed Logitech is in general more reliable, however i've had a lot of issues with the pedals on my G29. Dust and cat hair would get into the accelerator mechanism and i've had to open up the pedals and clean them twice in order to make the pedal work again.
 
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I read this thing as the 'official wheel'... I mean who are they kidding? its $1,000 usd!

You could buy 4 or 5 of the G29s for that! And knowing Thrustmaster quality (or lack thereof) you'd be gambling a bit with your $1k note.

The closest Thrustmaster is the T150? And that's probably a bit long in the tooth now?
 
I actually heard that the CSL ELITE has much much more detail than the G29. So there's rather an issue with the G29 implementation. Wheels like the T300, T-GT and Fanatec CSL ELITE have much more feeling.
I've got a Fanatec CSW V2 connected using a Drivehub which since the update is recognised as a CSL Elite and can confirm that is not the case. It's also not the case with my T500RS. The ffb is GTS for other wheels is just naff I'm afraid.
 
I've got a Fanatec CSW V2 connected using a Drivehub which since the update is recognised as a CSL Elite and can confirm that is not the case. It's also not the case with my T500RS. The ffb is GTS for other wheels is just naff I'm afraid.

Weird, you can check Sim Racing Paddock's youtube video where he reviews and compares the CSL Elite and T-GT, and he was pleased with the CSL Elite FFB in GTS (indeed, mentioned that T-GT is much better for GTS specifically).

I read this thing as the 'official wheel'... I mean who are they kidding? its $1,000 usd!

You could buy 4 or 5 of the G29s for that! And knowing Thrustmaster quality (or lack thereof) you'd be gambling a bit with your $1k note.

The closest Thrustmaster is the T150? And that's probably a bit long in the tooth now?

It's nowhere near 1000$. You can get it on Amazon right now for 650$.
 
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Here, with the progressive pedal adjuster thingy (I adjusted mine by basically raising the rubber triangle at 1 cm), it's perfect

So... with the conical brake mod IN you were able to actually get FULL brake input somehow? So far with the brake mod in mine (t-gt also) I can only get about half brake input no matter how hard I press. Any clue what I'm doing wrong? Thanks for any help... anyone...
 
Hi there, my Fanatec PWTS is very old and last weekend the right paddle shifter tactiles switch started to behave bad - double gear shift or none at all. Repair attempt failed so far and I have to use the CS shifter - ordered another tactile switch though but well maybe it is not working (btw used the wheel on PS4 with the cronusmax pro stick).

My wife approved to by a new wheel :D and well I do what my wife tells me to do. But what to I buy, the Thrustmaster T-GT (555€ is the lowest price right now, hence worth considering in my option - will use it with my Fanatec CS Pedals) or the Fanatec CSL Elite?

Any thoughts would be highly appreciated.

Is there a store in the Frankfurt - if germans read this ;) - area were I can test the Thrustmaster (I'm worried because of the smaller whell diameter and the pedals)?
 
So I finally got the Thrustmaster T-GT, after half a year of using the G29 (mostly on GTSport), and OMG, are there some very, VERY big differences.

The main difference, and the biggest, most crucial one is the FFB. Jumping over the technical data (better belt driven mechanism, a sub-woofer speaker in the back that transmits a lot of vibration and detail in the wheel column - works only on GTS - , etc), there is a NIGHT AND DAY difference, because basically, if you're using a G29 on GTS (regardless of FFB settings, i've tried all combinations) you SOMETIMES feel some curbs, once a day feel some bumps (barely), and get a slight ease of centering power when you lose your traction (but generally you get that feedback too late). With the T-GT, you feel everything, instantly, all the time. I'm talking car engine vibration, constant varying road surface detail, wheel flex and wheel traction, you're able to tell way sooner when the wheels are about to lose traction, you also get a generous wheel vibration when you're understeering, and so on.

Basically, if you're a G29 user, as far as FFB goes, you feel next to nothing in GTS (which is really a shame because in Assetto Corsa, PCars 2, F1 2017 you feel a lot, lot more detail and variation with that wheel). With the T-GT, you feel everything in a much more smooth and realistic way. IT is really fantastic and transformed GTSport for me from a great game with horrible lifeless feel, to a game that feels better than Assetto or PCars 2 with this wheel.

Another important difference is the break pedal and the way it works with GTS when using ABS off. In case you ever tried (with the G29), if you turn the ABS off, it's crazy tricky not to lock up the wheels instantly, to the point where it's almost useless (again, in AC and PC2, driving without ABS feels fine and it's realistically difficult to lock up the wheels, you've got to press hard and fast). Here, with the progressive pedal adjuster thingy (I adjusted mine by basically raising the rubber triangle at 1 cm), it's perfect - I can finally play GTS realistically (use cars like the old Ferraris and Cobra, etc without ABS and not die instantly, as well as, crucially "group 2" cars - SUPER GT500 - without ABS, as the cars in real life have no ABS and TC).

These 2 differences have transformed GTS for me, and made it worth every penny. It's also worth mentioning that the wheel feels better, has more useful buttons, and, crucially, is a bit bigger which makes for a more enjoyable experience in any game.


Hope my insights helped!
Thanks for that but something's missing: what about performances? Times are better or it's only about how you enjoy to drive?
 
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Hi there, my Fanatec PWTS is very old and last weekend the right paddle shifter tactiles switch started to behave bad - double gear shift or none at all. Repair attempt failed so far and I have to use the CS shifter - ordered another tactile switch though but well maybe it is not working (btw used the wheel on PS4 with the cronusmax pro stick).

My wife approved to by a new wheel :D and well I do what my wife tells me to do. But what to I buy, the Thrustmaster T-GT (555€ is the lowest price right now, hence worth considering in my option - will use it with my Fanatec CS Pedals) or the Fanatec CSL Elite?

Any thoughts would be highly appreciated.

Is there a store in the Frankfurt - if germans read this ;) - area were I can test the Thrustmaster (I'm worried because of the smaller whell diameter and the pedals)?
From what we read the T-GT is the steering wheel made especially for GT, where you have the best feelings FF, at that price I would say it's a bargain.
 
Thanks for this review, it was very timely, this wheel was not on my radar before, probably due to the price.

I never got used to the brake pedal on my G29, and am mystified by the FFB response and on-center behavior. The available adjustments in the menus are inadequate, and the changes seemingly non-linear. Plus I've had to fix faulty wiring twice (the game would auto-pause when turning the wheel quickly), and the pedal pots need to be cleaned every few months, so the reliability factor is out the window already.

On a whim, I checked ebay a few days ago, found an auction for a new, boxed TGT, and won it 4 hours later for $446 shipped. Pure luck, it was a short 3 day auction that ended at noon on a Thursday. If it was listed for 7 days and ended on a Sunday evening, it would have sold for close to retail.

It's on schedule to arrive later today. I'll add my opinion to this thread when I get some time with it. I'm hoping to find it helps my consistency, if not outright pace.
 
Hi there, my Fanatec PWTS is very old and last weekend the right paddle shifter tactiles switch started to behave bad - double gear shift or none at all. Repair attempt failed so far and I have to use the CS shifter - ordered another tactile switch though but well maybe it is not working (btw used the wheel on PS4 with the cronusmax pro stick).

My wife approved to by a new wheel :D and well I do what my wife tells me to do. But what to I buy, the Thrustmaster T-GT (555€ is the lowest price right now, hence worth considering in my option - will use it with my Fanatec CS Pedals) or the Fanatec CSL Elite?

Any thoughts would be highly appreciated.

Is there a store in the Frankfurt - if germans read this ;) - area were I can test the Thrustmaster (I'm worried because of the smaller whell diameter and the pedals)?
There are many reviews on the wheels but something reviews rarely talk about is reliability. Reading quite a bit of T-GT user experiences and Thrustmaster overall as well and the reliability is not what it should be, especially for that price.

I’m considering a T-GT myself but I wouldn’t get one without a retailer’s extended hassle free warranty. Are consumer electronics protection good in Germany? I think the UK has good mandates. Or at least they used to.
 

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