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Yup, i read the same thing somewhere.. The case is that in the 1.01 version it was very accurate to 1:1 but in version 1.03 i seen the little input lag.
And really, in a driving game, how more precise your inputs are and how less input lag you see/got how better.
So,like we commented with bleeder, the best solution is an V-sync filter active/deactivate option and everybody can choose on his liking.
Donnced, I have the same wheel and what I have noticed is that some cars will change your DOR on your wheel to 1080 degrees even if you had it set to 900. I had the same issue until I decided to check how many red flashes my wheel was set to right before the start of a race.
Sure enough, when I clicked the buttons on my wheel to change the DOR, my red light on my wheel flashed one time letting me know that it was set to 1080 before I made the changes on my wheel even though I had it set to 900 when the game booted up.
Now I just check before every race. Some cars it stays at 900 and some cars it changes to 1080. Hope it helps you.
 
I'm not following you here.



I didn't say that version 1.03 caused any of the bugs I listed. These bugs exist in 1.03 and that's why I mention them.
My apologies, your original post read to me as if it had been caused by the patch.




Ok, I'll try that. Am I correct in assuming that the auto clutch setting doesn't play a role for cars without cutch pedals? I'm on the DS4 controller for now.
100% correct.


You can argue those are minor issues, but they are very noticeable for me. I've been used to more subtle bugs in the console games I've played over the years, so I hope Kunos will address them moving forward. I'm sure other recent games have been worse in this regard, but this doesn't influence my reasonable expectations of AC. I've read that the PC version is very stable, so there's no reason why the console versions shouldn't be over time.
The PC version is very stable now, but as with everything these days it wasn't in the past.

Its an unfortunate situation that software (of all types) suffers from this now, as its easy to patch and fix after launch, however for me the biggest issues from the launch have been addressed in this patch, as the screen tearing and AI balancing had a far bigger impact than the issues that remain.
 
Donnced, I have the same wheel and what I have noticed is that some cars will change your DOR on your wheel to 1080 degrees even if you had it set to 900. I had the same issue until I decided to check how many red flashes my wheel was set to right before the start of a race.
Sure enough, when I clicked the buttons on my wheel to change the DOR, my red light on my wheel flashed one time letting me know that it was set to 1080 before I made the changes on my wheel even though I had it set to 900 when the game booted up.
Now I just check before every race. Some cars it stays at 900 and some cars it changes to 1080. Hope it helps you.
My T300 flashes 5 times to indicate 1080, all the way down to 1 time for whatever the lowest is. 4 for 900. Not checked what's happening upon boot up but so far I'm still getting 1:1 in the 458 GT2 with 900 set to both wheel and options. Haven't tried other cars yet but before the patch my Lotus Evora was only 1:1 with my wheel set to 1080. I'd be surprised if the real car had a DOR that high.
 
I also opened a new tread on the official forum asking about the drag mode and drag strips that where on the pre alpha of the game in the press events...

AkoNTMp.jpg


Really don't know why they took it away and it isn't in the final realese... Problems? Will it be in the game implemented with a future update??

I would hazard a guess and say because you cannot start a race already in gear (unless you have H pattern shifter enabled or Gearbox on Auto) it would be farcical to attempt to drag race with this game int's present form. Is anyone else sick of waiting for the lights to go out and then bash your car into gear with a paddle?
 
My T300 flashes 5 times to indicate 1080, all the way down to 1 time for whatever the lowest is. 4 for 900. Not checked what's happening upon boot up but so far I'm still getting 1:1 in the 458 GT2 with 900 set to both wheel and options. Haven't tried other cars yet but before the patch my Lotus Evora was only 1:1 with my wheel set to 1080. I'd be surprised if the real car had a DOR that high.

1 flash = 240deg
2 flash = 450deg
3 flash = 540deg
and you are right for the rest.
 
I would hazard a guess and say because you cannot start a race already in gear (unless you have H pattern shifter enabled or Gearbox on Auto) it would be farcical to attempt to drag race with this game int's present form. Is anyone else sick of waiting for the lights to go out and then bash your car into gear with a paddle?

Well... The drag mode was in the PC version already before the Update with the false start.
So it really doesn't explain why they pulled out the mode.
 
Right. Basically, any car that has flappy paddles will usually have auto-clutch and auto-blip built into them, just like the real cars do, so you shouldn't need to activate those functions with those cars.
From my experience that doesn't seem the case (could be wrong though as it might be a placebo). When i try a paddle shifter without those 2 options enabled or with it, i do notice a difference. Up and downshifts seem to be smoother when both are enabled?
 
They don't even includes the V-sync filter on PC version... So why they do it on console?? That's no respectful towards their users.

Friend Donnced, I think Assetto Corsa has V-Sync check box for the PC version. Perhaps I am not understanding of what you mean by V-Sync filter?
 
From my experience that doesn't seem the case (could be wrong though as it might be a placebo). When i try a paddle shifter without those 2 options enabled or with it, i do notice a difference. Up and downshifts seem to be smoother when both are enabled?

Even on cars that come stock with flappy paddles? Maybe it's not for all flappy paddle cars but I thought it was. I almost always have auto clutch/blip on because I rarely use the H gate, except in old cars where I lift and blip using the sequential shifter.
 
Even on cars that come stock with flappy paddles? Maybe it's not for all flappy paddle cars but I thought it was. I almost always have auto clutch/blip on because I rarely use the H gate, except in old cars where I lift and blip using the sequential shifter.
Yes as i assumed before that you wouldn't need to have to enable auto clutch or auto blip on those. Maybe others can chime in, please try a paddle shift car back to back with auto clutch and blip enabled/ disabled and let us know if you notice a difference too.
 
Yes as i assumed before that you wouldn't need to have to enable auto clutch or auto blip on those. Maybe others can chime in, please try a paddle shift car back to back with auto clutch and blip enabled/ disabled and let us know if you notice a difference too.

Ok, maybe it varies from car to car then. At the very least we know the Pagani behaves better with those options disabled.
 
My T300 flashes 5 times to indicate 1080, all the way down to 1 time for whatever the lowest is. 4 for 900. Not checked what's happening upon boot up but so far I'm still getting 1:1 in the 458 GT2 with 900 set to both wheel and options. Haven't tried other cars yet but before the patch my Lotus Evora was only 1:1 with my wheel set to 1080. I'd be surprised if the real car had a DOR that high.
My T150 has the same settings for each flash as the T300. This is just my experience with the T150. I am not sure why it happens but I can assure you that it does.

Edit: It's definitely 1:1 at 900 degrees with the in game settings at 900 degrees also, atleast for me it is.
 
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Friend Donnced, I think Assetto Corsa has V-Sync check box for the PC version. Perhaps I am not understanding of what you mean by V-Sync filter?
Yup, i talked with a friend, indeed... PC version got V-sync,my fault, but on the PC the ability to choose if you want it activated or not.
So I'm suggesting now in the official forum the option to activate/deactivate the V-sync filter
 
Donnced, I have the same wheel and what I have noticed is that some cars will change your DOR on your wheel to 1080 degrees even if you had it set to 900. I had the same issue until I decided to check how many red flashes my wheel was set to right before the start of a race.
Sure enough, when I clicked the buttons on my wheel to change the DOR, my red light on my wheel flashed one time letting me know that it was set to 1080 before I made the changes on my wheel even though I had it set to 900 when the game booted up.
Now I just check before every race. Some cars it stays at 900 and some cars it changes to 1080. Hope it helps you.

Thanks, will give it a try this night, but it's strange, because i always let my wheel in 900 degrees option and don't touch any options.

In the beginning the visual wheel graduation was at 400 degrees in the video settings and the visual wheel dunno match my wheel.
So i put the visual wheel graduation at "no" and it's better but find that in the 1.01 version there was less input lag... So,that's why on Monday i reported it in the official forum.

After the video of digital Foundry I've seen that the screentearing is killed by an implantations of the v-sync filter, a filter that plays with the way you see the frames and is knowed that it should introduce some input lag.

So,i arrived at the conclusion that the bit of input lag that i noticed with the new update could be caused due the V-sync.

So, I'm only asking to put the ability im the game with an option to activate or deactivate the filter.

Maybe the input lag I've perceived in comparison with the 1.01 version isn't due to the filter, but if it isn't, i realy don't know why i appreciate a diference with the new update..
 
:embarrassed:
From my experience that doesn't seem the case (could be wrong though as it might be a placebo). When i try a paddle shifter without those 2 options enabled or with it, i do notice a difference. Up and downshifts seem to be smoother when both are enabled?

I don't use auto clutch or auto blip with paddle shift. What I do notice is my down shift will sometimes take two (2) tries before it actually goes to next gear down. Don't have the problem on up shift. I notice this in both PC and PS4 version.
Could it be my wheel's right hand paddle? I don't notice on Project Cars. But I have to again check. Have not been on Pcars in two weeks.
 
Thanks, will give it a try this night, but it's strange, because i always let my wheel in 900 degrees option and don't touch any options.

In the beginning the visual wheel graduation was at 400 degrees in the video settings and the visual wheel dunno match my wheel.
So i put the visual wheel graduation at "no" and it's better but find that in the 1.01 version there was less input lag... So,that's why on Monday i reported it in the official forum.

Not sure if it's the same on console but on PC the game will automatically change your DOR to match whatever car you're driving. Maybe that's what's happening? Maybe not, don't know.

After the video of digital Foundry I've seen that the screentearing is killed by an implantations of the v-sync filter, a filter that plays with the way you see the frames and is knowed that it should introduce some input lag.

So,i arrived at the conclusion that the bit of input lag that i noticed with the new update could be caused due the V-sync.

So, I'm only asking to put the ability im the game with an option to activate or deactivate the filter.

Maybe the input lag I've perceived in comparison with the 1.01 version isn't due to the filter, but if it isn't, i realy don't know why i appreciate a diference with the new update..

For what it's worth if you're playing on a TV you probably already have a bit of input lag anyway. I doubt they'd include an option to disable vsync if it introduces screen tearing so it might just be something you'll have to deal with unfortunately. Someone recently did some semi-scientific tests and having vsync on only seems to add about 40 milliseconds (or .04 seconds) of input lag, so it does introduce some lag but at least on PC it isn't huge.

Screen Shot 2016-10-05 at 2.41.22 PM.png

http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...y-does-it-still-work.37075/page-3#post-756880

:embarrassed:

I don't use auto clutch or auto blip with paddle shift. What I do notice is my down shift will sometimes take two (2) tries before it actually goes to next gear down. Don't have the problem on up shift. I notice this in both PC and PS4 version.
Could it be my wheel's right hand paddle? I don't notice on Project Cars. But I have to again check. Have not been on Pcars in two weeks.

That's the downshift protection feature (DSP), some flappy paddle street cars and race cars have this built in to keep you from accidentally downshifting when the engine speed is to high which prevents damage to the mechanicals and that feature is mimicked in the game. When downshifting from a high engine speed just pause a second and let the RPMs drop a bit before trying to downshift, eventually you'll learn to work around it.
 
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:embarrassed:

I don't use auto clutch or auto blip with paddle shift. What I do notice is my down shift will sometimes take two (2) tries before it actually goes to next gear down. Don't have the problem on up shift. I notice this in both PC and PS4 version.
Could it be my wheel's right hand paddle? I don't notice on Project Cars. But I have to again check. Have not been on Pcars in two weeks.
Downshifting in AC with paddles is limited by revs. If you are too high in revs it won't let you downshift. That's something that happens with real cars with paddles to prevent damage. AC is the only game I've played that simulates that. Every other game just lets you downshift no matter what.

Edit. Didn't read the post above.
 
I was rather hoping that space would be reserved for 'Custom Championship'. Don't see the point of drag racing personally.
I'm not much of a drag racer myself but I do find the strips very useful as a transmission tuning tool. Against equal opponents (lap time wise) the difference between winning and losing can be the launch off the start.
 
Did some races at Black Cat County in the 458 GT2 today and it's a lot of fun. Not tried the long layout yet but the standard one is a pretty good track. Undulations! Less keen on the Short layout, which is actually longer than the standard. Reminds me of a kind of hill climb track. Still fun, but not as satisfying. I wouldn't mind some more fictional tracks appearing just to fill out the roster, as long as they're to a similar standard.
I would much rather have Watkins Glen, Lime Rock, Road Atlanta, Road America, or Laguna Seca, I love Euro Circuits, but P CARS and Forza Motorsport 6 has me a little spoiled. I need some real American Racing Circuits.

I hope Kunos start on those immediately after the Porsche Pack.
 
Downshifting in AC with paddles is limited by revs. If you are too high in revs it won't let you downshift. That's something that happens with real cars with paddles to prevent damage. AC is the only game I've played that simulates that. Every other game just lets you downshift no matter what.

R3E does it too but I believe you have a bit of control over how sensitive it is.
 
Not sure if it's the same on console but on PC the game will automatically change your DOR to match whatever car you're driving. Maybe that's what's happening? Maybe not, don't know.



For what it's worth if you're playing on a TV you probably already have a bit of input lag anyway. I doubt they'd include an option to disable vsync if it introduces screen tearing so it might just be something you'll have to deal with unfortunately. Someone recently did some semi-scientific tests and having vsync on only seems to add about 40 milliseconds (or .04 seconds) of input lag, so it does introduce some lag but at least on PC it isn't huge.

View attachment 592867
http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php?threads/maximum_frame_latency-does-it-still-work.37075/page-3#post-75688

Hi mate!yes,assetto corsa on console also change DoR of the wheel changing cars.

And,yes,I now a TV has more input lag that a PC monitor, the case is that i have all extras disabled (HDMI extra black filters and so on) and change the HDMI between "game mode" and "DVI-PC" mode... Getting better results and less input lag in the "DVI-PC" mode.

Also,thanks for the picture and the post.. Like it says V-sync add x2 input lag.
I wasn't sure, cause like i posted before i noticed the difference between 1.01 and 1.03 getting an minimum of input lag and that's why i reported it on the official forum that.

However, i suggested that the make an option in the video settings that allows enable/disable the V-sync filter, so the people can choose what's more important for them.

Like in Project C.A.R.S, that you can enable/disable a graphic filter and other options like god rays and more.. So everyone realy can configurate their game like they want.

:cheers:
 
(Edit) The point is not about vsync, is it? The frame rates on the DF video didn't look to be 30/60 in line with what you would expect with vsync.... unless we are talking adaptive vsync? But the main news is that they enabled triple buffering (also known as "render ahead" or prerendered frames) to smooth things out and avoid tearing.

On the PC version for ages there was standing advice to override the game and force prerendered frames to off to reduce input lag. Either they have solved this issue or there is likely to be a noticeable input lag with 3 prerendered frames set on, based on PC experience.

Sadly my PS4 isn't hooked up right now, so I can't do a direct comparison of the PC and PS4 versions to compare input lag. But hopefully someone will.
 
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I would much rather have Watkins Glen, Lime Rock, Road Atlanta, Road America, or Laguna Seca, I love Euro Circuits, but P CARS and Forza Motorsport 6 has me a little spoiled. I need some real American Racing Circuits.

I hope Kunos start on those immediately after the Porsche Pack.
I was only saying more fictional tracks would be ok as I can't see any real circuits suddenly coming out for the game any time soon. A US pack would be great, and at least 1 great track from continents other than Europe would be nice.
 
What's strange is you lurking around GTP cherry picking posts that can fuel your silly personal vendetta's. So no private lobbies count as bugs now? I'd gladly believe AC on consoles is a buggy mess like PCARS was when it launched, but I haven't read a lot about it here on GTP so far hence I'm assuming it isn't.

I'm lurking, cherry picking posts and I have personal vendetta ? Okay, that's new one :D One thing though, I'll be honest, I expected you and some others would quote me :P.

It cost me $89 Australian dollars this game it not worth that, I say about $50 for the game, what if I want the Season Pass I have to have another $44 and that is $133 dollars in total I spent on the game so this game is way over priced.

:crazy: AUD $ 133 is like US $ 100, back then budget and some Playstation Best/Platinum titles costs AUD $ 50-60+, guess AC should have been in that range for you.

I didn't play AC prior to 1.03.



Here's some problems I've noticed since getting the game for PS4 last week.

- Menu sounds only play in one audio channel after returning from track.
- Sometimes the engine sound of the player's car begins to stutter.
- The sound of other cars nearby sometimes causes click-like cuts in the sound.
- These cuts in sound may also happen as tires make contact with different surfaces (tarmac, curbs, grass, sand, etc.).

The shared trait for the audio issues is that they are random and usually creep in depending on how long the game is running without a reboot, which only works as a short-lived fix.

- Wheels sometimes spin around when accessing the pits through the menus, causing a constant screeching sound.
- Damage HUD causes severe slow downs when it appears on screen.
- Camera angles are sometimes skipped when cycling through them.
- L2 (minimum value) and R2 (maximum value) commands rarely work in the various menus.
- RUF CTR Yellowbird will sometimes not switch to the 100% boost setting, thereby it simply jumps from 90% to 10%.
- The Pagani Huayra has a transmission issue that pretty much makes it unplayable.

For sound issue, it may be worth it to try changing audio mode to LPCM stereo instead of surround multi channel ( LPCM/Dolby Digital/DTS ). Some of PS3 games have similar issue in audio ( stutters ) after some play time or after certain situation ( Stranglehold, Gundam Target in Sight ), these only happen when using multi channel output like Dolby Digital 5.1, switching to LPCM stereo almost cured it.

I'm happy with no screen tearing and 45-50fps to be honest. The game is smoother now than before, although probably not by much. Do you use a pad? Is that where the input lag comes from? I can't say I've noticed any difference with the wheel, perhaps it's always been laggy, but it hasn't affected my driving. There's no place for whole-screen tearing these days, I, for one, am way happier with the game as it is now. Hopefully Kunos can eke some more FPS out of the game at some point.

And BTW, I agreed with most of your list of improvements on the official forum. Be good to see what they're working on next, patch-wise.

I don't think using pad/DS4 would contribute to more lag, although using wired connection is better than wireless on games like FPS shooter ( at least that's what I have experienced when using DS3 wireless vs wired USB on DS2 )

I'm a bit angry with kunos.... They have said multiple times that part of staff like Luca Sodano are against the V-sync filter because it causes some input lag...

And They "fixed" the screentearing on console with a V-sync filter and don't even improve the framerate like they said...
They don't even includes the V-sync filter on PC version... So why they do it on console?? That's no respectful towards their users.

Funny thing is that in my post on the official forum days before seen this video from digital Foundry i reported problems in the framerate and that I've seen some input lag that wasn't in the game in the previous update...

Hopefully they put an option to activate/deactivate the 🤬 V-sync filter in video settings, cause i prefer some screentearing instead of some input lag.

👎 for kunos on this one

So, V-sync confirmed on 1.03 patch ? How much different than without V-sync ? I have plasma tv now which is miles better than my older LCD in terms of input lag, but I hope the V-sync would not be that bad in terms of lag.

BTW, did 1.03 also removed the online region lock ?

That is good to know. Actually very cool. Thank you TTyres...............:cheers:

You have a plasma tv ( read from your sig ), do you notice any difference after 1.03 patch in terms of input lag ?
 
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I have plasma tv now which is miles better than my older LCD in terms of input lag
Comes across like you are suggesting that plasma technology is responsible for you having less lag, which would be way off the mark. If anything, since plasma was marketed as the cinema purists tv choice, they more often had worse lag, as the focus was on processing the most premium image possible - and processing takes time.

This, from a plasma nut, that currently owns no less than eight displays, including the ultimate achievement - a KRP-500M.
 
Comes across like you are suggesting that plasma technology is responsible for you having less lag, which would be way off the mark. If anything, since plasma was marketed as the cinema purists tv choice, they more often had worse lag, as the focus was on processing the most premium image possible - and processing takes time.

This, from a plasma nut, that currently owns no less than eight displays, including the ultimate achievement - a KRP-500M.

Well, you can believe it or not, when I replaced my old Samsung Series V LCD ( which I set in best condition/setup for game ), I was surprised at how responsive the games that I often played to input/reaction times. I have lots of hours in GT6 in particular, played a lot of these : MGS V, Battlefield BFBC2, Fallout 3, Uncharted and Dead Space series, Wipeout HD/Fury, Street Fighter II Turbo HD, Super Stardust HD, some of these have 60fps, and I had to make adjustment on controller response settings ( reduce them a lot ) as they were too responsive. My mate who tried to play on my plasma also have similar impression ( he has the new 2015 top of the line Sony LED which he said good for gaming and I tried on his TV as well - PS4 games )
 
@Ridox2JZGTE It's perfectly feasible that a particular plasma will have less input lag than a particular lcd, but the reason will never be because it's a plasma. Plasma/lcd is arbitrary by default in regards to input lag. I have no reason to doubt your experience, but your correlation/causation rationale seems to be off.
 
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