Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Project CARS 1' started by Brainhulk, May 7, 2015.
What setting do i have to change?
Tyre Force: 75
Deadzone Removal Range: 0.13-0.18 (try which one works best, if the wheel starts oscillating on straights and standstill it's too high)
Raise the Master Level where needed.
Hmm tried that. Didnt work. For some reason the game is not saving my settings after i exit either
That's definitely weird. Those settings should give a lighter feel in the wheel (so it doesn't drown out the softer FX) and bring in the details from the kerbs and bumps. Have you changed any other settings or running stock? What are your Logitech Profiler settings?
Also, what car/track combo?
If the settings don't save, then it also explains why they don't have any effect...
Its the BAC Mono on Laguna Seca. Didnt change anything except what you posted
Any tips for a good overall G27 setup. I've only ever used it with GT6 on my PS3, but when I started with Project CARS today, it felt nearly impossible to keep from weaving all over the place on the straights. I tried putting the dead zone at 1. The helped on the straights, but felt horrible in the turns. I didn't do anything else beyond the calibration. I was testing with the Gr.A BMW M3 E30 at Bathurst.
I want this game to be good, but I need to feel like the controls work. I'm sure there's some adjustment from GT6, but this felt awful. I'll try again tomorrow.
I'm on PC with G27 and had the same issue. The problem is easy to fix. In the car tuning menu, go to the FFB and you'll find the individual cars are very low. You can do this at the track or in the garage. Most are in the low 20's and I think the Lotus 49 was 18. Set them to 60-80 or so. You don't want it to be too heavy or you'll get clipping of the more subtle road/curb/tire effects. Make the adjustment @NLxAROSA suggested to the tire force (I don't seem to have any deadzone on my G27 with stock settings) and then set each car up as you take it to the track. You also need to make sure you are running Logitech Profiler when you are in the game. Also, make sure you calibrate the wheel in the Options menu each time you fire up the game.
EDIT: Took a Steam Screenshot and it cut off the name of the slider but you get the point. This is a car I haven't touched, I believe it's the Formula Rookie, but it seems all the cars have this setting quite low so far:
I think that's what i messed up, i dont have a Logitech profiler running. But im at work atm, will try after
Note the part I added at the end.
@Johnnypenso Yes, that is the Master Level I was referring to. It's set fairly low on most cars. Especially road cars can use a bump there. With regards to FFB deadzone: best way is to not guess the values, but use WheelCheck. It will tell you exactly what the number should be.
Yeah that part i turned up to 100. Ill try to bring it down to 60-80 later
do u think it might be understeer? i increased my front negative camber and used some heavier trail braking and got my turn ins fairly well
same on ps4 with t300, nothing from the road or kurbs while the rest is so strong it rips my hand off
Success!! I wasnt running logitech profiler.
I feel the rumble now...muhahahaha
Thanks guys, time to enjoy the game
Is this setting a master FX setting or does it control over all wheel force feedback?
CSW v2 has the same lack of rumble strip feedback but the wheel is already very strong so I just need to fx turned up.
The road feel and rumble effects are basically controlled by the Fz scale in the car setup screenshot above. What you can do, if the rest of the effects are too strong, is turn the Fx and Fy down, but keep the Fz higher. I use Master scale = 44, Fx = 62, Fy = 50, Fz = 70 for my baseline setup and I have no problems feeling the road and rumble. The thing is also some kerbs are flat, so the effect is not strong for them.
Problems all solved! Completely revised FF profiles for pcars.
Yup, together with this thread that should be enough to setup FFB for the G25/G27. Note that the information in there is useful for other wheels as well.
Have downloaded Logitech profiler.
however when it installs it does not tell you where it puts the file.
using my son's computer and he has tons of stuff on it.
What is the directory name or full file name for the profiler Executable file?
If the profiler is running will that then allow the pic version of the game to save the wheel settings so that do not have to set it up each time the game is launched.
After installing there should be an icon in the system tray (bottom right of the screen). And yes, it saves wheel settings, both global and per game.
Really? Wow I guess the G27 is weaker than i thought. If I set those values that high on my wheel it would be like driving a big heavy car with a broken power steering belt. Even at 40 the steering is very heavy. 26-32 is not bad on most cars but for some that is to much. Of course I am using the CSR Elite which does have a pretty strong FFB system in it.
I think it is really cool how they have added all those settings to FFB, Very confusing at first but it allows people to fine tune their wheel so they can get good FFB even with the wheels that are normally not that strong while not going overboard for those of us with stronger wheels.
I've since made many adjustments to the G27, paid a lot of attention to the FFB clipping meter and I'm also down in the 20's with the Master Scale, with overall and tire force at 100. The FFB is weak on the G27 and it's easy to clip. I am constantly adjusting different aspects of the individual cars and it's quite easy to get the FFB to clip and it's got me thinking I need a better wheel to dial in all the different aspects of the FFB that I want. I was looking online last night and noticed that Best Buy is selling the T300 in Canada. I like buying from them because it's easy to return defective items without any questions or hassle, and they price match, so any price I find online in Canada they will match so I always get the lowest price.
I have not used the newer thrustmaster wheels. Sounds like they are pretty good.
I really like my Fanatec, especially the CS pedals. That load cell works really well making it not even noticeable that ABS is on or off
I also seem to be chasing FFB settings on my G27 with different cars. Good to know that I'm not the only one.....(or bad depending on which way you want to look at it.....
Some additional food for thought:
Using my Logitech G27 on PC I'm now discovering that getting that wheel tuned correctly to each car might be just as important to the car tune itself and may be required before even starting to think about tuning the car itself. Here's why: I've discovered that when using a default tuned car..............when approaching a corner at speed, if I throttle off and apply a static 50% brake force a) before, b) during and c) mometarily after turn in.............the car produces understeer all the way to the apex. If I do the exact same test with only 25% brake applied the car seems to behave identically a) before and b) during turn in, BUT instead RESULTS IN SEVERE OVERSTEER at or near the apex. In some ways this reminds me of the BLOR (brake liftoff rotation) thing that occurs in GT6....except in this case instead of "lift off"..........you just keep the static brake pressure applied with a tiny amount of brake..........and eventually "the back end will start coming around" I've experienced this with every car I've tested so far. If a pilot can get their hands around this behavior, I feel this could lead to Alien status and be a massive advantage before the chassis tune is even touched. Your thoughts?
EDIT: O yea, this is with 100% no aids...ABS: OFF. Not sure about behavior with alternative settings.
What you're talking about there is threshold braking and trailbraking. Once you figure out how much brake pressure and steering input to use, it's easy to induce oversteer in just about any car in a sim just by applying the brakes and turning in at the same time. What you're doing is tranferring the weight and grip to the front of the car with just the right amount of brake pressure to not lock the front tires so they continue to rotate and not push/understeer, and turning at the same time. In other words, it's what the car is supposed to do except it doesn't always work in other games quite correctly And you're right, managing that oversteer on entry and tuning it out or in, depending on the car/track/tires , is the key to speed in any sim. You don't want too much or you're constantly fighting it. Too little and it's hard for the car to rotate. Just the right amount and you feel like this guy (Gilles Villeneuve):
Still have not seen any icon.
Please someone provide the typical directory location.
What I am surprised about is that the cars seem to be rotating the most with a minuscule 10-20% brake force. In my experience with other simulators, that was too little.
Can you still lock the tires up at 20%?
Using G27 with PC version. My pedals will not work. My steering works fine. Also, I can not find the Logitech Profiler software to download. I have a feeling I need that in order to prep the wheel for the game.
I am running windows 8. Hopefully I'm in the right thread to ask this question.