- 9
- United States
Maestro, your Ford Mark IV '67 tune is an absolute killer at Le Mans. Thank you!
PRAIANO'S TUNES : SETTINGS FOR GT7
- Thread starter praiano63
- 11,918 comments
- 11,189,443 views
- 147
Wow that's a sharp job on the body that took some work.Pontiac Firebird Trans Am '78 - 600PP - Sport Medium tires - Tokyo Rain / All track
Wide Car
Rims 15" (Up to you) Width Wide Offset Wide
I've let the car no wing , but becaus of this stupid PP system , to race Tokyo and be performant , use the wing. PP will drop 10PP and you can add power setting limiter from 81 to 91. Then if you want , Wing B
Congratulation to "whynotMicrosoft" for the livery. I love it.⚡
Engine Swap : LS9-Corvette (Chevrolet Corvette C6 ZR1)
Performant car at 600PP , not so good at 700PP.
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1- set auto speed at the minimum 240kmh
2-set the final gear to 3.135 for Le Mans event saving gas. Use lower final gear for more RPM and other power range.
3- set each gear ratio beginning from the last gear to first gear in this order.
Done.
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Enjoy your drive.
- 406
- Victoria, B.C.
- skypilotrv4
I ran the Toyota Crown Athlete today at Le Mans. I can get 4 laps with no sweat using fuel map 1 or 2 for the first two laps. That car has 8 (yeah, eight) forward gears. Even on fuel map 6 the car will pull 200 mph in eighth gear. The car looks to be a bit of a tank, but it corners well, better than the A.I., so if you want a relaxing ride to earn your credits, there you go. Oh, and it handles the wet very well also.
The fast guys of the A.I. will usually pit on lap 3 and lap 6, so you can count on that to assist your decision making. Their pit stops usually give you about 30 to 35 seconds lead, if you pass the Start/Finish line right when they pit. The Corvette with McEwen driving is usually down to 7% fuel remaining after 3 laps fuel and that slows him down a bit on the last lap.
I will sometimes jump into the leading cars on the replay. On the long straightaways, they never exceed 166 mph and during the 800pp event, they never exceed 168 mph. Easy pickings!
Cheers, Pete
Oh, almost forgot, this one has the engine swap, which makes it uber fast and uber thrifty! It's the old man syndrome showing up, Gulp.
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It's definitely worth the investment in time and when you do you'll never go back. It is so much more fun to drive, but importantly gives you control of what the car does and when which translates into better lap times.
I had all kinds of struggles with many of the cars in auto, there were very few stable cars that I wanted to actually drive all the time - the Japanese cars being the easiest in auto. But switching to manual took my experience to a whole new level and another world. All the tricky cars started becoming usable and now are my ultimate drives.
For example, in auto I could not manage to drive the Ferrari 458 Italia GT3 no matter which tune I used - I'd spin out all over the place. It was hell and I honestly thought it was trying to kill me. Now with manual it's one of fave cars to drive and some of my best lap times.
- 1,110
- Portland, OR
- Live25
First off, your pics seem a bit off. The first one looks to be the ‘B’ option front bumper while your rear appears to be an ‘A’, I see no option for Rear B. I’m assuming a typo here.
How strange, I can get the gearbox to match yours, except my 1st gear maxes at 103.
This one was a bit difficult to keep as your tune and get it up to 700, so I added some bolt-on’s, left the internals and chassis matching your build and got it to 674.19 and ran it. It was very nice overall with good acceleration, very nice cornering for an old FR (potential for snap oversteer without proper throttle input) and excellent braking, top speed was just OK at 179 and fuel economy was poor. The most important thing was that I really enjoyed driving the car, even if I did have to make 3 stops for fuel.
Ultimately, I decided to beef it up all the way and just have 2 cars, one at 600 and one at 700. Cut the bumpers off, slapped WR3 on, and with the Crank, Stroke, Balance and Ports it went to a near perfect 697.69. I’ll try it again at another time and report back.
First off, there is some really weird PP behavior when adjusting the R-H, Torque/Accel. Sens. & ballast, wild swings (70-80 points) for 1 tick of adjustment. If I knew what I were doing more, I suspect I could exploit the Hell out of it. The tuning sheet has been attached for the sake of science (your gearbox, WR1-3 & Rigidity added).
I totally should’ve heeded your warning about this car at 700. Turned a couple of solid laps, got overconfident and bypassed a pit for tires that cost me about 2:20 on the 3rd lap. Then, when I had just about recovered and was moments from stealing back 1st at the finish, made another costly error and got 3rd.
With so much weird behavior in tuning, I find it difficult to render a verdict on this car as its not a simple up-tune from what you have already published. I will say that top speed and braking are both very good. My suspicions are that this car can be built to compete from 600-800, but there are likely ‘secret codes’ for each class to get it there.
- 12,330
- paracuru
- praiano63
Yes , the Parts of the camaro is wrong. (Corrected now )
For gearbox after update , thanks PD for this ,
Gearbox for Nordschleife
Final gear 5.500
Top speed 180kmh
Final gear again at 2.800
Set each gear.
1st 2.376
2d 1.840
3d 1.480
4th 1.240
5th 1.070
You can do this process for any car with same problem.
- 406
- Victoria, B.C.
- skypilotrv4
Don't know much about how automatics can be shifted in the game. I'm not sure if anybody uses these. I shift using my paddle shifters on my wheel, a Logitek G-29. That seems to work fine even if the car has a manual lever with a knob, they shift just fine. Most cars in GT7 get modified with the custom racing transmission. These are similar to a motorcycle transmission, to go from 6th gear to 1st gear, you must cycle through all the intermediate gears to get there. Which makes it interesting gearing down for a hairpin corner, but using the paddle shifters on the wheel, you can cycle through pretty quickly to get to 1st gear. The DSG transmissions work the same way on street cars, you just bang away on the lever or the paddles to get there.
Hope this helps.
During the start of the GT7 period, doing the menu books, this was one of the favorite cars and tunes. Drivefeelingwise.Nissan R33 GT-R V-Spec '97 - 700PP - Racing Hard tires - All aroundThis is a special car in GT7 , till now i don't know any other with those behaviors. Perhaps the Yaris but his brakes are really broken.
The R33 have a few similarity with the Yaris because the brakes are bringing the whole car to the apex , not dosing the pressure , you can upset the car if too much pressure or late on the brakes (but the brake's Yaris are broken) . Well done , you will use this normally after some laps , bringing back the front of the car to his driving line to reach the apex , you're the boss. Fantastic sensation , really great. Both 600PP and 700PP are this way. For the 700PP with so much power and Sport tires , You'll the king of the drifters if you want to. Even me , the worst drifter of the univers.
Accelerate , bring inside the line with a soft brake input. A fantastic game to play for racing too . I'm in love with this car. Mission complished.
PS: About performances , Number 1 for 700PP , top 3 for 600PP
Wide Body
Rims 17" Rim Width Wide Offset Wide
Front A Side A Rear B Wing A
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Enjoy your drive.
Now I normally drive LeMans and Saradegna money grinding races, for car collection purposes and meditation :-). Not really so competetive by nature, so have not been focusing so much on the shorter races or time trials. More the nice feeling of driving.
Liked this one so much from that perspective. So wanted to drive it again. Checked if you would get 3 laps on a fuel tank on LeMans. On FM6, I did. Which means that it is a nice and pleasant drive for LeMans and money grinding.
Thank you @praiano63 !
- 230
- Galicia
I have a nostalgic personal connection to this car and its history. I have been waiting for it since I started to play the game two months ago, and I read about it in the tunes. Today it came! Possible to purchase!
I have been using this tune. I have been running one race at LeMans. I am totally in love with this car and the drive and racing feeling. The handling, the direct steering, the general control you have of the car. It does exactly what you want!
I have mostly been driving money grinding races to collect cars, and for meditation. But driving this car, and earlier tonight the Nissan R33 GT-R V-Spec '97 700pp, makes me wanna start to try to race a bit for real!
Another thought. I have not really been driving a lot on Race Softs. I assume one of the reason this felt so good, is connected to that it was possible to get RS in here, right?
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- 406
- Victoria, B.C.
- skypilotrv4
I researched the A220 last night and learned quite a bit about the car, it's heritage and history. I am writing this to elucidate on the car and it's development.
The "raison d'être" for the car was a rule change from the 24 hours of Le Mans management for the development class of cars to run that enduro. The new rule was for the engine size to be limited to 3 liners, or 3000 cc's. And that is why the car is so small relative to the later cars used, in the 1960s, 3 litres could only move so much metal!
A man called Aimeree Gordini was challenged to re-engineer the A220's engine to 3 litres. His solution, working with Renault who were supporting the development, was to take two 1500 cc Renault engines and join them at the hip, so to speak. That was the basis of the engine that we drive today, two engines with a common crankshaft, each with chain driven camshafts driving off the crank, an amazing feat of engineering to create a 90 degree, small V8, putting out around 315 horsepower. My mind wonders at the complexity of mating the crankshaft to the con-rods of the two engines, slightly staggered I assume, and building the crankcase to support the two blocks.
The chassis is all small diameter tubing (4130 steel likely) with the tops of the coilover dampers braced across the car with wishbones at all the corners. Which is how the car comes in at just over 1500 pounds with the fibreglass shell. In real life, the car rides VERY low, the little snout is only around 6 inches off the ground. So, boys and girls, that is what you are driving when you smoke'em at Le Mans, and I think, that is pretty cool!
Cheers, Pete
- 406
- Victoria, B.C.
- skypilotrv4
In answer to your post, Yes, you can use Race Soft tires. The penalty for that is a higher PP!?! The reality of using Race Soft tires is that they wear out faster, but the GRIP is awesome. But if you must pay for the grip in PP allowances, then something has has to give, and that means less Horsepower in most cases. Which is why Race Hard is used for endurance racing in our game, lower PP means more HP allowed, and at Le Mans, you want more HP and less weight, which is why the A220 shines so brightly.
My apologies to Praiano for taking so much of his space with my soliloquy. This branch is almost it's own little forum.
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Wow. I should have purchased this a long time ago. What a great car and tune. It’s perfect for the 700pp Lemans 30 min race. It’s great on fuel, hits 200 on the straightaways and is easy on tires and handles great. RM tires till it rains. If you get a lot of rain then switch to intermediates. Last race it didn’t rain much so I never switched from RM. two stops. I changed tires after my second stop. They were pretty shot after six laps.
