Project CARS 2 General Discussion Thread - Out Now on PS4/XB1/PC

  • Thread starter jake2013guy
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Mr Grumpy
XB1X
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Ahh, on PC there are a couple virtual button boxes that run on a tablet of phone. I use PowerGrid which allows full customization.
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JaZZyGee
Well yeah I think it's great. Been hooked on GTS for the online racing for a while. Back on PC2 again recently. I'm guessing the DLC cars are a great addition?
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More cars and a few more tracks. Great variety, the only really questionable additions were some of the drifting and off roads, but that could be your thing. If you like the game and want to spend more time with it, it should be a no brainer.
 
sgohsixthree
More cars and a few more tracks. Great variety, the only really questionable additions were some of the drifting and off roads, but that could be your thing. If you like the game and want to spend more time with it, it should be a no brainer.
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Sounds good. I'll probably get it while it's on offer on psn. Thanks 👍
 
I think it also matters if you need this extra variety now or can still wait a while for this. I myself still haven't bought the season pass although I know I will sometime in the future. For now I don't need the new cars and tracks yet. It could come cheaper in the future, perhaps with black friday.

Another thing for me is that when the price is right I would like to change from the disc version to the digital version, but for that I'm thinking for a price of 20 Euro for the deluxe edition which could still take a while.
 
Season pass may not be worth it at this point. Seems like PC2 is done with any further content (at least announced content). And even without the pass, it's an overwhelming amount of content.

Drive every car on every track in just the basic game is months if not years of fun, exponentially increased if you want to race in different weather, different time of the year, different time of day/night.

But if any of the DLC floats your boat and others not juice your goose, you can always purchase it separately. Me, historical LeMans was a no-brainer, but the 'Fun Pack' was pretty meh. I went a la carte...
 
I just bought the season pass the other day while on discount, been waiting for it to drop, it was a little steep before but down to $26AUD was acceptable for me to get 30ish more cars to enjoy :).
 
JaZZyGee
I'm guessing the DLC cars are a great addition?
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In some cases yes - there is at least one great addition in each pack so it makes sense to get the Season Pass and not buy just the individual packs.

If possible get the Deluxe Edition of the game as that includes the Motorsport Pack and the Japanese Pack, both of which include some very good cars.

If you get the Season Pass you get an extra pack which is very good - smaller, but better than some of the main packs (sorry can't remember if it is the Japanese or Motorsport pack - but someone on GTPlanet will know!).
 
Sick Cylinder
In some cases yes - there is at least one great addition in each pack so it makes sense to get the Season Pass and not buy just the individual packs.

If possible get the Deluxe Edition of the game as that includes the Motorsport Pack and the Japanese Pack, both of which include some very good cars.

If you get the Season Pass you get an extra pack which is very good - smaller, but better than some of the main packs (sorry can't remember if it is the Japanese or Motorsport pack - but someone on GTPlanet will know!).
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Motorsports pack, which contains the rather excellent Panoz GTR which sounds absolutely terrifying :).

The Japanese pack (not part of the season pass) was a pre-order bonus or day 1 purchase, but can be bought cheaper than the other packs as it's only 4 cars, £3.99 I think.
 
I've tried different FFB combinations, but i can't get my CSL nowhere near clipping..! Infact the FFB telemetry show only one or max two bars active (1st and 2nd, last 4 bars are inactive). From my understanding, the optimal would be all bars active except the last one, which indicate clipping. So i quess i'm missing some subtle details.
How many bars should be active when the wheel is clipping? All 6?

Edit: Ok so, each bar represent +20% strength range (6th is clipping above 100%). But, i don't know how to get wider FFB range; i only get one bar active at a time... I've seen the "horizontal bar" reaching max & still showing only 40% strength.
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Volume i adjust between 30-50, but it has no effect other than heavier & even more dampened feel.
 
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Knukel
I've tried different FFB combinations, but i can't get my CSL nowhere near clipping..! Infact the FFB telemetry show only one or max two bars active (1st and 2nd, last 4 bars are inactive). From my understanding, the optimal would be all bars active except the last one, which indicate clipping. So i quess i'm missing some subtle details.
How many bars should be active when the wheel is clipping? All 6?

Edit: Ok so, each bar represent +20% strength range (6th is clipping above 100%). But, i don't know how to get wider FFB range; i only get one bar active at a time... I've seen the "horizontal bar" reaching max & still showing only 40% strength.
View attachment 774771
Volume i adjust between 30-50, but it has no effect other than heavier & even more dampened feel.
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maybe check here ?
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51583-Fanatec-CSL-Elite-PS4
 
Knukel
but i can't get my CSL nowhere near clipping.
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Well that's good then. :)
It means the opposite in that you shouldn't be loosing any details. You have an high end wheel so it should be able to handle most things but increasing the volume eventually should produce clipping because making the wheel stiffer means it can't do any other more subtle effects at the same time.

Knukel
Ok so, each bar represent +20% strength range (6th is clipping above 100%).
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Yeah I've seen this explanation but I don't think it's correct.
Think along the lines of the other audio related references - gain, volume and tone then look on the graph as a display on a graphic equaliser. So what you're seeing is a representation of your overall settings. Sort of bass to treble but in ffb effects. So you might not see all bars full but just the ones that represent the effects you've dialled in, with the red showing just clipping.
Try changing to both immersive and informative modes. I can't remember which is which but one produces more "treble" and the other more "bass".

If you don't have any clipping and you've got the wheel feeling how you want it's best to ignore the bars and enjoy the game.
 
The problem that I've heard about with Informative or Immersive is, they rely on auto calibration each time you start a session (iirc). So, depending on whether the track is bumpy or smooth, depending on whether you hit the curbs hard or not during warmup, you can end up with a different 'feel' on different occasions.

I stick to Raw, as it is identical each time I go out.

But it would be nice if there were a standardized test track with a standardized set of bumps, curbs and surfaces (enough to adequately simulate the worst of what you face) and a routine where the AI would drive your car with your setup over it at a preset speed and course. That ought to dial in Immersive or Informative before you go out on just about any track...
 
Sentry87
The only pack I could've done without was the fun pack. The le mans and porsche packs were essential to me
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What about the old Ford Mustang (Vintage GTA) and Renault 5 from the Fun Pack - those are both superb cars. As well as the Renault 5 the old Audi RX car is also wonderful to drive on tight road circuits. All three of those are great on default settings - the Ford RS200 less so as it is too low geared as standard. Personally I couldn't do without any of the packs!
 
Sick Cylinder
What about the old Ford Mustang (Vintage GTA) and Renault 5 from the Fun Pack - those are both superb cars. As well as the Renault 5 the old Audi RX car is also wonderful to drive on tight road circuits. All three of those are great on default settings - the Ford RS200 less so as it is too low geared as standard. Personally I couldn't do without any of the packs!
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Fair enough, however I drive mostly GT, gt vintage, prototype, prototype vintage, touring cars and a few modern supercars/ hyper cars. That's why I value those other packs more.
 
Can someone do a test for me as I think I'm going mad.

1973 Porsche 911 Carrera RSR 2.8 (Vintage GT A)
Wet vs slick tyres in the rain seem to have exactly the same grip levels.

Any track, any type of rain, abs low only.
Tested on XB1X, Pad & TM-TX.

I have no incentive to pit for wets when it starts raining as I'm still slipping & sliding as if I'm on slicks while nursing the car around putting in the same lap times.

When you change to wets from slicks in the rain in any other car you can feel the grip levels change when you come out the pits.

Is it the nature of the car, or a small tyre bug?

Much appreciated in advance to anyone for testing this.

:cheers:
 
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Mr Grumpy
Can someone do a test for me as I think I'm going mad.

1973 Porsche 911 Carrera RSR 2.8 (Vintage GT A)
Wet vs slick tyres in the rain seem to have exactly the same grip levels.

Any track, any type of rain, abs low only.
Tested on XB1X, Pad & TM-TX.

I have no incentive to pit for wets when it starts raining as I'm still slipping & sliding as if I'm on slicks while nursing the car around putting in the same lap times.

When you change to wets from slicks in the rain in any other car you can feel the grip levels change when you come out the pits.

Is it the nature of the car, or a small tyre bug?

Much appreciated in advance to anyone for testing this.

:cheers:
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Older cars in the game use the same tyres wet or dry, so there is no point in doing pit stops for weather - just for tyre wear. I am not sure if this applies to that car, but it does apply to some of the older cars in the game.
 
Sick Cylinder
Older cars in the game use the same tyres wet or dry, so there is no point in doing pit stops for weather - just for tyre wear. I am not sure if this applies to that car, but it does apply to some of the older cars in the game.
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I understand that, I've used them before with the older cars.

But it has slick & wet tyre options in setup instead of the all-weather/road/vintage or whatever tyre it's called like older cars.

Also when it begins to rain the engineer (authentic) even says on the radio "stay out on slicks till it gets to bad then come in for full wets", also you see the AI struggle around on slicks until they pit for wets then blast past me.

Like I said, it feels like I'm still on slicks even though it shows wets in the telemetry.

Really confusing.
 
Mr Grumpy
Can someone do a test for me as I think I'm going mad.

1973 Porsche 911 Carrera RSR 2.8 (Vintage GT A)
Wet vs slick tyres in the rain seem to have exactly the same grip levels.

Any track, any type of rain, abs low only.
Tested on XB1X, Pad & TM-TX.

I have no incentive to pit for wets when it starts raining as I'm still slipping & sliding as if I'm on slicks while nursing the car around putting in the same lap times.

When you change to wets from slicks in the rain in any other car you can feel the grip levels change when you come out the pits.

Is it the nature of the car, or a small tyre bug?

Much appreciated in advance to anyone for testing this.

:cheers:
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Had a quick go, wets give you a bit more grip but not a lot still difficult with wet tyres and they got cold after a lap.
Maybe try upping the pressure.
But yea the wets are poor on this car.
 

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