R/C car thread!

We had a lot fun under very hot and humid conditions. With a small turnout and three heats and a main drivers a plenty of time to tune and work on their cars. Our youngest driver, Ethan, took the old guys to school in the Slash Class. Thanks to John for coming early to help set up. Thanks to Gary, Todd, John, Ethan and ken for all of their help cleaning up. Our next race will be Sept. 18. The church appreciates everyone's contributuions.
 
R/C RACING SAT., SEPT. 18 - WINFIELD, IL

R/C racing in Winfield continues in 2010. There will be more fundraising R/C races at the Winfield Community United Methodist Church in Winfield, IL. The address is 0S347 Jefferson St. in Winfield, IL. All money raised will go to the church. The race will be held in the church parking lot on Sat., Sept. 18. Racing is open to all drivers. This race will be open to electric cars only. The cost will be $10.00 for each driver for any number of classes. Electricity and washrooms will be available. There’s a McDonalds and Burger King close by. The track will open for practice at 9:30 AM and racing will begin at 11:00. We will be using AMBrc lap counting and transponders will be available to use. Drivers can use personal transponders. The classes we will run will be stock touring, GT3, Slash, Off road, 1/16/1/18 scale, Tamiya Mini and any others as long as we have at least three cars for a class. We can also combine classes. We run 6 minute heats and mains.The church is trying this as part of their outreach programs. There may be no drivers stand. You may want to bring something to stand on if you need it. There will be a door prize drawing for the drivers at no charge. Everyone has had a good time this summer.
This great place for new drivers to get started and for racers looking to have fun and for old drivers to have fun!

FOLLOW THE FORUM ON RC TECH.

Directions: Take Rt. 38/ Roosevelt road to County Farm Rd and turn north. There’s a MacDonald’s at that intersection. Go north to Manchester Rd. and turn left or west on Manchester. Take Manchester to Jefferson St. and turn right or north and go about a block and you’ll see the church on the right side.

Take Rt. 64/North Ave. to County Farm Rd. and turn south. There’s a Honda motorcycle dealer at the intersection. Take County Farm Rd. to Manchester Rd. Turn right or west on to Manchester Rd. Take Manchester to Jefferson and turn right on Jefferson. Go about a block and you’ll see the church on the right.

Because of the different address, map quest and other driving direction programs may not work.
 
I forgot to thank John for helping set up the track and thanks to Scott, John, Scott, and Peter for helping tear down the track. Thanks to Mark for coming out for the first time. Watch for announcements for racing next Spring in Winfield, IL.
 
Anyone want to buy a Nitro RC car?

Its got a problem with the pull string, it wont pull itself back in.
The shell is not in great condition, few cracks, but its based on Makinen's old WRC Impreza.

Let me know if theres anything you want to know about it.

(I live in the UK btw)
 
Hey all,

Wondering what would be a recommended chassis for a 1/10 on road electric these days? Last I had was a ta05 a few years ago where I had to stop racing due to the cost. Considering starting again or just getting something to casually play with now that brushless and lipos are more common.

Also any recommended nitro rtr kits? The schumacher fusion 28 and traxxxas nitro 4 tec 3.3 look interesting.
 
Hmmmm... I have a TT-01 chassis... Simple and not too expensive... The one I have is from two years ago, so I dont know what is better at this moment... I just casually play around with it on sunny days :) So that would be about 3 months of the years since I live in Holland! :D
 
Yeah I've had a TT01 in the past for mucking around/drifting and had the ta05 for racing. Great basic chassis for mucking around. Probably looking at something higher up in the price range though.
 
Then I wouldnt know as Im not up to date on whats new and good..... :)
 
As for the electric I'm looking for something higher end than a ta05. So something mostly made with cf/alloy. Lots of adjustability in the suspension etc. Should have made it more clear I'm looking for something I can likely use racing just no idea what chassis those winning tend to use.
 
Which actual model is the better one between all those brands. Even though they each have models that are meant to be fairly equal generally racers find one or two of the brands develop the fastest one.
 
Of the brands I mentioned I have owned ax Xray, a Corally, and a high end Tamiya. They are all high quality cars. Of the cars I owned the Corally and Xray had the most tuning options. Tamiya just a world championship.
 
I race locally VTA and World GT. VTA is basically any touring car with a vintage body and wheels on it. We run brushless 21.5's and 2s LiPo's. World GT cars run 13.5 brushless and 1s liPo's. I am also into vintage Tamiya stuff and rock crawling. heres some pics.

Losi XXX-S and Associated TC5
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vtacamaro004.jpg


SU1BRzAwMDIuanBn.jpg


tamiyavintagetrucks002.jpg


tamiyavintagetrucks005.jpg


tamiyavintagetrucks001.jpg


ax10-2.jpg


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I started buying my gear. I'll miss the first round or 2 racing for the year but that is ok as I'll be wasting 2-3 rounds learning the car and setting it up. So by the time I'm up to speed It'll be too far into the season.

I've purchased so far
Xray t3 '11 rubber spec

Buying over the next week or 2
Spektrum DX3R
Speed passion GT2.1 stock spec esc (I was looking at the lrp sxx tc spec v2 but I can't find which of the two esc's is lighter)
Team Epic D3 21.5
Protek 5000-5600mah 50c lipo x2
LRP Pulsar 3 or venom pro charger (Leaning towards the venom only because the LRP is a 3-4 year old product and nobody can tell me if it is any better/worse than the venom)
Tyres/wheels/protoform body
Setup wheels/camber guage/droop guage

I haven't started building the car yet as I need to get some oil and may grab some schumacher ceramic bearings to run instead of the standard ones.
 
Just bought a combustion R/C car and was hoping someone could help me out with engine break-in.

I read the manual and it said I should run the engine at 1/2 speed for 15 mins with the gas intake valve set to 3 revolutions from fully locked, then let it cool off without any compression in the engine. That seems easy enough but then it says I should adjust the gas intake valve 1/8 revolutions, run the car at moderate speed and let it cool off again. Repeat until optimal performance is achieved. That's fine but at 1/8 increments I'll have to do it 8 times for a single turn and that thing can turn about 10+ times! Not that much of a problem if I could turn it at will like I can with my plane, but having to let it cool off and then turn the valve will consume too much time. Can anyone give me some tips?

I also have some doubts about the fuel. I have some R/C methanol plane fuel left which has 10% nitro and 18% oil and I'm wondering if I can use it with my car. The recommended fuel by the store clerk is methanol with 20% nitro and 12% oil (manual only mentions I must use proper model fuel). It seems pretty obvious that the plane fuel I have is not ideal but I'm wondering if it can be used, including using it for the engine break-in.

Thanks in advance for any help :)
 
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MD6
Plane fuel is not good for car nitro engines. Car engines run hotter.
Click to expand...

Negative ghostrider. Plane fuel has higher oil content. If you are looking to keepyour engine runing longer you need the higher oil mix. I ran my nitro mostly on plane fuel until recently and when i went to a hobby shop to ask for a new head they asked me where did i get the parts for a rebuild since they dont make them any more, it was the original piston/sleeve.

That out of the way for parking lot bashing I recomend 20% nitro and at minimum 15% oil, this can be found as normal car fuel.
 
J-Pap kindly pointed me in the direction of this thread. I have started building a Ken Block Impreza based on a Tamiya TT-01 Type E kit. I'll be updating this thread to chart my progress.

Day 1

Chassis built and body cut out ready for preparation and painting.

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Day 2

Washed and prepped the body for the first spray job. I'll be doing the black sections first. The turquoise stuff is liquid masking paste, apparently it peels off when you're done.

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Day 3

Sprayed the black parts. In total about 4 coats. The liquid masking paste worked a treat. Tomorrow I'll be applying the white.

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Day 4

Sprayed the white on today. Have also been painting the rear spoiler and wing mirrors yellow. Just the yellow strips on the hood/ bonnet left to do now painting-wise. This weekend I'll probably have a go at applying the stickers which I have to make myself.

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Sorry for the shameless thread bumping but my car is nearly finished and I have to say I'm pretty chuffed with the results. This is the first car I've built and I wasn't sure how it was going to turn out. Just a few finishing touches such as fitting working lights and so on left.

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