Race Car Super Lap: Red Bull Ring

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Konnichiwa
I swear, after changed the oil my bhp reduced immediately. Be4 then oil change I hade like 504bhp with 600pp after change 493 bhp with 600pp!!
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That must have been some kind of a bug that was not actually showing your real hp number. The tune you posted on page three even has 493hp listed. By the way, you have the rear stabilizer bar set at 8, but 7 is the max.
 
dolande
I'll give it a go. I still need to gold the historic race car in Monaco and this thing seems to be the ticket
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I'm not trying to talk you out of buying the 2J, but if you are looking for a more economic solution to the Historic Race at Monaco, I can assure you the Toyota 7 at $1.95M will get you a gold. That's what I used and I am of average skill, at best, with GT6.
 
dolande
I'll give it a go. I still need to gold the historic race car in Monaco and this thing seems to be the ticket
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For the Historic Racing Car race at Monaco I used the Challenger Race Car '70 - was fun and not too hard. Plus the car is well under a million credits.
 
After 20-25 minutes of driving and tuning, I set a 1:24.809 in my ts030. I was trying to set a 1:23 but I gave up.
 
t_wilson01
That must have been some kind of a bug that was not actually showing your real hp number. The tune you posted on page three even has 493hp listed. By the way, you have the rear stabilizer bar set at 8, but 7 is the max.
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Dunno, I only know that my bhp deoped after I changed oil

It is? Sry, typefehler my
Bad!
 
To everyone, it's easy to get gold here, even with honda hsv y'all can get gold, but if you wanna compete with drivers on leaderboard, then the only solution is 2J and practice.
 
Guys, is the HSV really bad here or something? I presume it's a high drag car that wouldn't be really suited, but is a 1:25:0 a slow time with it? I was racing online here and I thought I was strong suited to this track, especially through that fast Chicane mid sector, where I used to always catch up several tenths.

I haven't been playing since like wed/Thursday so that could be why too lol. It's untuned, bar a bit of toe I adjusted, cause I'm not really a tuner.
 
I presume you wouldn't want my tune of the anniversary car! It's fairly simple anyways, take away .1 rear toe and make the transmission so that you reach the end of 6th gear!
 
Darragh
I presume you wouldn't want my tune of the anniversary car! It's fairly simple anyways, take away .1 rear toe and make the transmission so that you reach the end of 6th gear!
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Lol. Suspension, drivetrain, power... So idk if you're tune will be competitive!
 
You guys need to slow down! I was ranked 233 a couple days ago, but I'll drop out of the top 300 by tonight at this rate. What's the rush?
 
Konnichiwa
Dunno, I only know that my bhp deoped after I changed oil
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The reason your BHP dropped when you did an oil change is Torque.

PPT's are a combination of power/torque and weight (plus some sort of factor for the particular car).

Let's say when you start (keeping weight constant for the purposes of this discussion) the 2J has...

350bhp, 50kg torque, 600ppts, 80% power limiter

As the engine wears, power and torque decreases and you notice you're only at 590ppts.

If you carry out an oil change at this point you will increase both Torque and Power, and assuming you didn't carry out an oil change on the 2J prior to running it for the 1st time, this will now give you more power and torque than the car originally had.

Meaning you'll now see something like this...

375bhp, 55kg, 620ppts, 80% power limiter

So you'll now have to run more limiter to reach the 600ppt limit, and end up with something like this...

325bhp, 55kg, 600ppts, 70% power limiter

When you use the power limiter the torque changes are small (might be not at all - would need to check), but the power changes are big (relatively speaking).

Like GT5, in GT6 it's usually better to raise power as much as possible relative to torque... ie; you get better performance with the least torque relative to the most power... it's why people ran a lot of cars with dirty oil in GT5... it reduce the torque and allows you to increase the limiter and run relatively more BHP... and this makes the car faster.

So when your car starts to get slower due to engine deterioration, don't change the oil... simply decrease the amount of power limiter you're running to get back to the same PPT's.... this should make the car faster :)

You might end up with something like this...

375bhp, 45kg, 600ppts, 90% power limiter
 
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Stotty
The reason your BHP dropped when you did an oil change is Torque.

PPT's are a combination of power/torque and weight (plus some sort of factor for the particular car).

Let's say when you start (keeping weight constant for the purposes of this discussion) the 2J has...

350bhp, 50kg torque, 600ppts, 80% power limiter

As the engine wears, power and torque decreases and you notice you're only at 590ppts.

If you carry out an oil change at this point you will increase both Torque and Power, and assuming you didn't carry out an oil change on the 2J prior to running it for the 1st time, this will now give you more power and torque than the car originally had.

Meaning you'll now see something like this...

375bhp, 55kg, 620ppts, 80% power limiter

So you'll now have to run more limiter to reach the 600ppt limit, and end up with something like this...

325bhp, 55kg, 600ppts, 70% power limiter

When you use the power limiter the torque changes are small (might be not at all - would need to check), but the power changes are big (relatively speaking).

Like GT5, in GT6 it's usually better to raise power as much as possible relative to torque... ie; you get better performance with the least torque relative to the most power... it's why people ran a lot of cars with dirty oil in GT5... it reduce the torque and allows you to increase the limiter and run relatively more BHP... and this makes the car faster.

So when your car starts to get slower due to engine deterioration, don't change the oil... simply decrease the amount of power limiter you're running to get back to the same PPT's.... this should make the car faster :)

You might end up with something like this...

375bhp, 45kg, 600ppts, 90% power limiter
Click to expand...

Thnx for the explanation ;)

Jaywalker
Check the first post of this thread?
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This tune is for Suzuka, so, I'm not
Confident that this tune will work for this track. But I'll give it a try!
 
Down to 1:20:466...great car, awesome track. Just long enough, to get a few attempts without "wasting" hours.
 
Jbaffoh
:lol:Ok, everyone faster than me has to stop now and give me time to to catch up. I probably won't have time to do so until tonight. That's fair, right?:lol:
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In order to improve you're time, follow these few steps, they are four point where you're lap times can/will improve:
• after crossing finish line, the right hander, brake early go Fast out, hit clean the apex
• after the long straight, brake on the second double line, hit hard to 1st gear, try early hit the throttle
• the corner on 2nd sector, bit wide, and hit the iner cerb, for better line!
•now you'll come to the deep right hander, also brake on the 100m mark, try hit the iner cerb on you're right side, the cerb will give you the momentum for a better exit!
• THE last right hander be4 the finis line. Go on you're left hand side, bit on cerb, brake to 1st and try to slide a bit into the corner. If you get it right, you'll be hiting exact the peek of the apex (corner) for best possible entry.

My time is 1:18.5, sooooo, I'm relevant in some way to give you some advice. :)

And if you wanna compete hart and serious, on a first page you have some setups that will help you

Hope this helps!
 
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so far i have 1:19.957 i think with ds3 then had a bash with the little wheel and 1:20.145 so far with a bit of room for me to improve,watched a couple replays now and can see where i can hopefully make some time,we will see...all tips and vids above will help out...thanx everyone :cheers:

edit: took another tenth off with the wheel but think im done with these....... maybe
 
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Konnichiwa
In order to improve you're time, follow these few steps, they are four point where you're lap times can/will improve:
• after crossing finish line, the right hander, brake early go Fast out, hit clean the apex
• after the long straight, brake on the second double line, hit hard to 1st gear, try early hit the throttle
• the corner on 2nd sector, bit wide, and hit the iner cerb, for better line!
•now you'll come to the deep right hander, also brake on the 100m mark, try hit the iner cerb on you're right side, the cerb will give you the momentum for a better exit!
• THE last right hander be4 the finis line. Go on you're left hand side, bit on cerb, brake to 1st and try to alike a bit into the corner. If you get it right, you'll be hiting exact the leek of the apex (corner) for best possible entry.

My time is 1:18.5, sooooo, I'm relevant in some way to give you some advice. :)

And if you wanna compete hart and serious, on a first page you have some setups that will help you

Hope this helps!
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I agree with everything you've said, and I've been using your tune (with minor modifications). But I confess that I've also been using the driving line (but not following the path). I need to turn off that distraction. I also need to avoid those yellow bumps. I have not driven since Saturday or Sunday, but I'll kick your butts and turn in a 1:10 tomorrow. What? Oh, my wife says we're out of gin. Maybe I should reassess in the morning. Nevermind ;)
 
Jbaffoh
I agree with everything you've said, and I've been using your tune (with minor modifications). But I confess that I've also been using the driving line (but not following the path). I need to turn off that distraction. I also need to avoid those yellow bumps. I have not driven since Saturday or Sunday, but I'll kick your butts and turn in a 1:10 tomorrow. What? Oh, my wife says we're out of gin. Maybe I should reassess in the morning. Nevermind ;)
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Turn the driving one off b'coz it's showing you the wrong braking points.
:)
 
And one more thing, if you drove the 2J like a mad man, and you run over 300/400 or more miles/kilometers, go restore the body stiffness that costs like 500k!! It will bring back the original stiffness of the car which is more stable and precise handling.
 
Konnichiwa
Ok, I did a solid 1:19:552 on my ds3, my tune,

600pp
493bhp
909kg
Weight distribution
47:53

65/50
12.45/11.30
4/7
4/8
5/8
0.0/0.0
-0.28/-11
Brake balance
5/7
Transmission
Max speed 300
1.1.500
2. 1.070
3. 0.870
Final gear
3.970
Drivetrain
7/60/7
Power limiter to
69.2%
Body
Ballast 88kg
+10 position!
Traction control OFF
ABS 1

I can shave from this driven time maybe -0.350/400 maximum I thing, just need to work on my last sector a bit, I miss the corner entry
Btw.ive changed oil so, if you do this tune and you're numbers are not as mine here just change you're oil.

Hope my setup will help!
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Many thankz for the setup, I killed the rear end spring rate (to minimum) and added 1.0 Camber rear and front....The setup is sweet the way u had it but i just needed to dabble with it a bit LOL. Pulled off a 1.19.837....So thankz for sharing :)

Guvna
 
Guvna1974
Many thankz for the setup, I killed the rear end spring rate (to minimum) and added 1.0 Camber rear and front....The setup is sweet the way u had it but i just needed to dabble with it a bit LOL. Pulled off a 1.19.837....So thankz for sharing :)

Guvna
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You're welcome bro. Now
You have solid setup, just perfect you're lines and corner brakes, and try a bit early on throttle for
The exit, and you'll be improving fast!

Good luck! ;)
 

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