Real Guns

To be honest with you at 1x the difficulty of rapid target acquisition is equivalent to that of a micro red dot (in my honest opinion). I'm still fairly new to using low variable power scopes at <25 yards so we'll see if my opinion changes after a few more 3-gun matches. This scope does not have any rails built onto it however, you could purchase a 45 degree accessory rail mount considering how much rail space you have on you DD upper. You could also just purchase an M-Lok rail section and mount your red dot there as well.

The advertised eye relief of this scope is 3.5". Below is a pic of how far back I have my scope mounted. From this point I adjust the buttstock to the point that I have my desired eye relief.



@Michael88 in regards to AR15 gas length this is often what is sold on entry level AR15. Also, that's really cool that Brownells is an international company. It sucks that it takes so long for you guys to get stuff but at least you have the option of being able to obtain it.

@David that revolver looks sweet.

 

Thanks, it's just your basic Ruger GP100 .357Mag. Great gun for the price and built like a tank.

 

I can't believe that's a GP100. Looks so good.

If you can target acquire as well as small red dot sights, that's not bad. As I said, I love my Burris FastFire 3.

Another option I totally forgot about was red dot magnifier. In fact, I think magnifier might be the most attractive option to me, at least for the DD upper. I'm in no rush though, and my M&P upper's handling mid/short range real well with that Burris scope/red dot combo.

I just looked up the Burris & it says 2.5~3.5, but I find that to be little generous. Way your Vortex is positioned, I see no problem with the eye relief there like that.

 

Could you also just flip the rail mount and have the scope pushed forwards? Probably wouldn’t look as appealing but you may be able to find a better solution. Might be in the way of the charging handle though.

 

@a6m5 the setup you have on your M&P15 pretty sweet. I like the fact that you can go from mid-range to CQB without removing your hands from your firearm. Being that the BDC reticle on your Burris is setup for .223/5.56, I'd patiently wait for another tube style red dot with a BDC for .300BLK/7.62x39. There is always the Trijicon ACOG but it isn't cheap.

Theoretically you could do that. But with the scope that close to your eye, you're going to get first hand experience of "scope bite" . I'm somewhat embarrased to admit it but I have personally experienced scope bite on another rifle and I was grateful for the fact that I was wearing eye pro. At this point there are a few things wrong: scope is mounted improperly, your vision has diminished or you simply have the wrong scope for the wrong application.

 

While there seems to be a give & take with every solution, I think we are on the same page. I looked into ACOGs, too. I had $1,000 gift card that was going into either firearms or ACOG, and ended up with that DD Upper + Crimson Trace laser.

PS My Burris is the one geared for .308/7.62, which I robbed from my Bushmaster 308. I don’t shoot past 100 anyway.

 

Fun thing is, out to 500 yards or so a 168 grain BTHP .308 and the 52-55 grain BTHP .223 out of 16'' and longer barrel have basically the same drop. So you can most likely use it as it is on your 223.

Wind drift is a different story though.

 

@Michael88 once again dropping knowledge. I now understand why the same Primary Arms ACSS reticle scope for .223/5.56 can be used for .308/7.62x51

https://www.primaryarms.com/pa-gen-...with-red-green-illuminated-acss-reticle-black

 

I'm a fan of the 50's and 60's.

1850's and 1860's that is.

My 1866 Winchester .44-40WCF long rifle, my .44 1860 Colt Army and my .36 1851 Colt Navy.





Also, I cut a board, sanded it down, finished it with brow lacquer and glued all my dummy rounds on it.

 

I installed a scope side rail on my AK! I took out the trigger assembly and hammer assembly, drilled three holes, put the rail base on the side and glued it into place with Loctite. I also secured the screw-nuts with Loctite. I had to shorten the actual scope mount rail by three picatinny slots since it was bumping against the iron sights-. No big deal, cut it down with an angle grinder, straightened it with a rasp and finished the shiny spot with black spray paint.

I think the shortened rail looks better!

Then I took the Holosun Dot off my Roni and put it onto my AK, but it turns out my Leuopld 30mm scope ring is significantly lower than the original Holosun mount, so I used it instead. Much better.

Here it is:

 

Almost forgot to post this. The Hogues finally showed up in the mail last Friday.

 

Man those grips are sweet. I'm not much of a Sig fan but those grips alone make me want to buy one now...lol

 

That's really one of the most gorgeous pistols I have ever seen, and those grips are just icing on the cake. David you lucky bastard!

 

Thanks guys. I'm very happy with how this one turned out, and I promise you those grips feel every bit as good as they look.

 

Is it G10 @David ?

 

Yes sir!

 

I'm not a citizen yet, so you don't have to call me sir yet..... G10 of course is very popular with pocket knives. Very cool man.

 

Working on a new project. A do-it-yourself-mauser rifle.

The old Mauser 98 kit, made in 1975. I have no idea how this kit survived for so long absolutely untouched.



About 30 hours of sanding wood, tons of inletting work, sanding, bluing & polishing metal parts and staining & oiling later:



Bluedand polished parts. Note the commercial Mauser 98 action, the finest 98 action there is. Also the strongest.


Now what I have to do is install the sights. Also, I have to cut the rear of the stock flat and fit the butt pad onto it. That's a step I really dislike, but its got to be done. Lots of potential to screw up.

 

@Michael88 for some reason I didn't see your AK post yesterday. You did a good job installing that rail. Also, are you using a UTG scope mount? Are you able to remove your dust cover without having to remove your scope mount? Lastly, how the heck did you find that Mauser kit? What are your plans for the gun once you've finished putting it together?

 

Thank you! Yes, I can remove the dust cover, but I have not quite managed to get it back on with the scope on it.
But that is no big deal, the scope mount consist of two pieces, one piece is a small rail that is drilled and glued into the receiver. The 2nd piece is the actual rail that has the picatinny rail on top of it, it slides over the small side rail and is fixed into place via lever-operated clamp. So you simply flip a lever and you can slide the whole assembly with the optic on it off, kinda like a quick detachable scope ring. And it retains zero.

Pure dumb luck. Saw an odd Mauser kit on an auction site, reluctantly clicked the ''buy'' button and BOOM - it was mine. Got it for 390 bucks. It even came with the original factory certificate that says it was built in march 1975, it has all the stamps and the signature of the owner of the factory.

Once it is finished my plan is gonna be to shoot it a lot and loving it. My build looks a lot like those vintage target rifles of the 1900-1910's, and the classic 7x57 caliber fits just perfect. I'm going to install a target peep sight and use it for open sight matches for 100-300 meters. I expect it to be very accurate.

 

Is that an actual Mauser brand kit or no?

 

Its a Santa Barbara Mauser 98, a licensed copy of the (pre war) FN commercial Mauser 98 action. Not to mix up with the Spanish military 98 production, those were produced by an entirely different facility, and to different quality standards.

The action is identical to the classic Mauser 98 action, but the receiver lacks the stripper clip thumb and bridge cutout and is therefore considerably stronger and bolt travel smoother. Also, the cocking piece shroud lacks the Mauser flag safety, it has a trigger safety instead.
It also comes with a match grade adjustable trigger that differs a lot from the military action trigger.

I got the original certificate, note the date:

 

Today I shot my AK with the red dot on it, sighted it in and then finally hit the 100m (110yds) range. I must say I am pleased with the accuracy this platform is capable of.

9 shots at 100 meters, Holosun red dot, no magnification. Group about fist sized, minus the flyer at 11 o clock.

 

Since my last trip to the range with my M4 was so successful I bought RCBS Match dies and just made my first batch of .223 match ammunition.

I'm using Hornady 52 grain BTHP bullet with VV N130 21, 22, 22.5 and 23 grains for approx 3100-3250 fp/s. Just to test what the rifle likes. Loading those little 223'S is really fun, by far the smallest cartridge I reload. I especially like the fact that I use HALF the powder I use for the big boomers, that means twice as many rounds - and basically no recoil.



Also, I just got an amazing deal for 223 match bullets, Speer 52 BTHP 1000 pcs. for 150 bucks. That's 15 cent for one match projectile, that's about half of what they usually cost.

 

@Michael88 I'm slowly acquiring reloading supplies. What do you recommend for trimming rifle cases?

 

Definitely Lee Quick trim. Thats a die you screw into you reloading press, you then insert a case into it, insert a hand crank with a cutter on it through the top. A few revolutions and the case has the proper length. Best way to trim brass hands down.
Also congratulations to your decision to get into reloading. You will NOT regret it. (Until the day you blow yourself into smithereens. LOL kidding. )

Today I worked on my project, I cut the rear of the stock flat for the butt plate. Also, it needed a better butt edge, all the sanding and grinding left the edge around the rear end of the stock dull, chipped and rounded. It was surprisingly hard to grind the rear of the stock perfectly flat, its a big surface. I used my new large stationary disc grinder. But in the end I got it flat and the edge clean & razor sharp.



Then I drilled the holes for the screws for the butt plate and installed it. With a knife I marked the shape of the stock on the butt plate and then ground it down with - again- the disc grinder. This demanded utmost precision. One mistake, one slip, and its ruined. (The butt pad costs 60 bucks)




Now the only thing I have to do is wait for my gunsmith to install the front sight base on the barrel. Soldering is one of the few things I cannot do. (yet) Hurry up dude!

 

https://www.remington.com/handguns/700-cp

Alright, so which one of you lads is going to be the first to purchase this "pistol"? It comes in .223/5.56, .300 BLK, .308 WIN and 6.5 CM.

 

Sooooo, anybody from the US experiencing any ammo shortages? I just heard ammo sales have EXPLODED in thew US due to the inbound virus.


https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/g...ales-jump-as-americans-stock-up-for-covid-19/

Man, I really want to build a mini-sniper now.
There are also adapters for folding AR buffer tubes, this totally needs one. I'd get it in .308 since it would suffer the least from the short barrel length. 2550 fps should be doable with a 125 grain 308 out of a 12 inch tube.

 

Just wanted to show you my Mauser Gewehr 98 Brazilian contract rifle. It was made in the original Mauser Factory in Oberndorf am Neckar, in 1908, for Brazil. They were shipped to south America, and then in the 1970's, when the Mauser rifle was just outdated, Brazil sent them back to Germany for commercial sales.
Most of them are in kind of rough shape, but a handful of those were never issued and were returned in the same condition they were shipped.

Mine is in absolute pristine condition, despite its age of 112 years, its basically new. And as if that wasn't enough, its even one of the experimental rifles that were chambered in 8x57 Mauser instead of 7x57 Mauser. Very few of those still exist today.

I also got the original bayonet and its sheath. The rifle sling is a reproduction since I could not locate an original sling. I doubt many of them have survived, if any at all. And yes, fit, finish and overall craftsmanship is just unreal and cannot even remotely be compared to modern day production rifles. Every single part is just perfectly finished and fitted.

 

That wood looks great for its age