Real Guns

  • Thread starter Thread starter Calibretto
  • 8,884 comments
  • 507,545 views
First try and you got it perfectly level? Lucky bastard you! :scared:

The problem is when the reticle is slanted your vertical adjustment doesn't just move the reticle vertically but also horizontally. And when that happens major confusion sets in.
 
Ah, I never even thought of that before. I've seen level tool for scope before. Now I understand. :lol:
 
Shot the rifle rounds I handloaded last week, they did pretty well I think. :dopey:
Handloading effectively cut the group sizes in half.

5 Shots, 110 yards, without letting the barrel cool between shots.

300wm1_zpsea68da97.jpg


300wm2_zpsebc4cb6a.jpg


I'm happy! :)
 

Too bad when can't have bananas shipped into California, anymore. Dianne Feinstein did it again.

Now, she's working on banning pomegranetes because they look like hand grenades. She's such an idiot.

tumblr_m8hmlcBncb1qi7twvo1_500.jpg
 
Doesn't she know that stronger booze, greasy burgers & high powered cars kill more than high capacity magazines? Ban the drinks, burgers & sports cars first then we'll talk. :dopey:
5 Shots, 110 yards, without letting the barrel cool between shots.
Good shooting! 👍 If you are doing better with your own handloads, I guess you are doing something right, eh? :D
 
Ban the drinks, burgers & sports cars first then we'll talk. :dopey:D
Don't give her ideas, some EU politicians like to copy US laws and regulations, my life would be completely empty without this stuff! :scared:
Good shooting! If you are doing better with your own handloads, I guess you are doing something right, eh
Thanks! I think what has a huge impact on accuracy is using brass that was shot in my rifle and then only neck-resizing it, that way the brass has the exact shape of the chamber of my specific rifle. A perfect match.
Also cartridge OAL is so super critical.
 
So you think the brass will actually come out in more accommodating shape for the specific chamber after having been fired? Very interesting. 👍
What did I just read.
Are you talking about that hand grenade full of vitamins?
 
So you think the brass will actually come out in more accommodating shape for the specific chamber after having been fired? Very interesting. 👍
Yes!
Think of factory ammo as slightly undersized for the chamber, when fired the bullet will not enter the bore perfectly centric which is bad for accuracy and the gas pressure expanding the brass also has a negative impact on accuracy.
The brass case has the same shape & size as the chamber after firing, when reloading you only need to resize the neck of the brass - reduce its diameter- so you can seat a new bullet without it falling out of the case.
You can increase accuracy even more when you seat the bullet way out until it almost touches the rifling, in combination with fire-formed brass the bullet will enter the bore optimally.
That way your gun will be significantly more accurate and the groups will be very consistent. No more fliers! :dopey:

However, brass cases grow in length after time and they eventually need to be full-length resized and/or neck-trimmed.
If you shoot cartridges with a case that has an excessively long neck the mouth of the case will crimp into the bullet when chambered and that leads to EXTREMELY dangerous pressure spikes that can blow up the strongest guns. :scared:

And I'm rambling again...
 
I don't know about rambling, but you are starting to sound like a reloading mad scientist. It makes sense though. :lol:
 
So you think the brass will actually come out in more accommodating shape for the specific chamber after having been fired? Very interesting. 👍

Are you talking about that hand grenade full of vitamins?

Yes lol.



I reload a bunch of different types of shells but one thing to watch out for is for the action to knick pieces and chips off the casing. Some guns are made to do that so you only get so many reloads before you can't use the casing anymore. I know my uncles Kimber does that.
 
And this, ladies and gentlemen, is a sign of overpressure. When you're seeing primers flattening out and firing pin cratering on the primer its time to back down with the powder.
In this case its not excessive or dangerous but its a sign that reducing the charge by 1 or 1.5 grains would be a good idea.

Slightly flattened out primer and firing pin cratering
zuumlnder2_zpsbf056d2e.jpg


An unfired and two spent primers extracted from fired brass. Look at how the top of the primer expanded and flattened out due to the very high pressure.

zuumlnder1_zps3553f135.jpg
 
Interesting. 👍 I mentioned last week I had four .308s that wouldn't fire. Three did fire the second time I tried it. I wonder what causes that? I've had that happen with a 9mm before, too(only FTF my G17 suffered). Perhaps the opposite of overpressure?
 
There are numerous things that could have caused this malfunctions. Off the top of my head:

1. Primer not seated properly. If the primer is not sitting all the way in the primer pocket the first strike of the firing pin will just seat the primer, the second strike detonates the primer. And we're talking about hundreds of an inch here.

2. Hard primer. Sometimes primers can be a little hard and need a second strike of the firing pin to ignite it. Happens a lot with the cheaper ammo and surplus.

3. Faulty primer. The explosive charge of the primer is faulty and may cause a hangfire or it needs a second strike of the pin to detonate.

4. Deep primer pocket. If the primer pocket is too deep the primer sits to far in the cartridge and the firing pin may not ignite the powder charge reliably.

5. Undersized primer. The primer is too short and pops into the primer pocket when hit by the firing pin. See #4.

FTF can definitely be caused by a weak load, the slide doesn't go all the way back to chamber the next round. Also happens a lot with cheap ammo. I see a pattern here.... :p
 
:lol:

Well, there is a definite pattern. They are all Wolf. They are called "military" something, and comes in really crap packaging. I split 500 rounds with my coworker, and his very first one was also a dud. Never buying Wolf again, that's for sure. Tula on the other hand, I've yet to have any issues, and they are under $9 for a box. :p

Of the possible causes listed, I'm thinking it was the hard primer, but who knows. It's been very educational though. :lol: Thanks man! :)
 
Worrying that he needs to caption the video several times to stop people from doing what he's doing. Cleaning a gun with a round chambered, what could possibly go wrong!?
 
"You son of a biscuit!" lol

I say that all the time, too. When in public. At home, I something else.
 
So, pistolero friends: M&P Pro vs. G34/35? Best 5 inch barrel sport/comp striker gun?

Whichever one fits your better. I personally like shooting the M&P more than the Glock, I'm not much of a fan of Glock's grip. Glocks probably have moer accessories available. Either way though, you can't really go wrong; both are highly capable and reliable pistols.

Any particular reason why you're thinking about a competition model?
 
And this, ladies and gentlemen, is a sign of overpressure. When you're seeing primers flattening out and firing pin cratering on the primer its time to back down with the powder.
In this case its not excessive or dangerous but its a sign that reducing the charge by 1 or 1.5 grains would be a good idea.

Slightly flattened out primer and firing pin cratering
zuumlnder2_zpsbf056d2e.jpg


An unfired and two spent primers extracted from fired brass. Look at how the top of the primer expanded and flattened out due to the very high pressure.

zuumlnder1_zps3553f135.jpg

True, however, lets not forget some other factors that can cause this. Not all flattening and cratering is attributed to pressure. It can also be a headspace issue or a soft primer (as you noted). Some primers which have a soft cup will flatten out and crater a bit. ;)
 
Last edited:
True, but it IS a rather stout load.
Thats why I sent 10 rounds of that load to the proof house for firearms and ammunition in Vienna to get data about the velocity and the pressure, can't wait for the results. :dopey:

I just hope its not totally overpressure or something because that particular load shoots exceptionally well and I'm planning to use it to shoot 300 and 1100 yds with it.
 
Whichever one fits your better. I personally like shooting the M&P more than the Glock, I'm not much of a fan of Glock's grip. Glocks probably have moer accessories available. Either way though, you can't really go wrong; both are highly capable and reliable pistols.

Any particular reason why you're thinking about a competition model?

Not me. Aunt. She's a glockaholic.
 
True, but it IS a rather stout load.
Thats why I sent 10 rounds of that load to the proof house for firearms and ammunition in Vienna to get data about the velocity and the pressure, can't wait for the results. :dopey:

I just hope its not totally overpressure or something because that particular load shoots exceptionally well and I'm planning to use it to shoot 300 and 1100 yds with it.

Good luck ... hope it gets figured out. Keep us posted.

To all gun enthusiasts, please do keep in mind ...... never use cheap, low grade ammo. So much for this once sweet S&W .44 Mag. :nervous: How'd you like to have been the guy behind this when it let loose ?
gunmishap1_zps9c44c524.jpg


gunmishap2_zpsc812e820.jpg

gunmishap3_zps1636333f.jpg

gunmishap4_zpsa39c1a4c.jpg
 
Get the hell out! :eek: :nervous:

I shoot a lot of cheap & low grade ammo. I've heard of mismanufactured surplus type ammo doing that before, but what could cause that, and how realistic is the risk? :crazy:
 
Was this caused by a cheap round for sure? Looks to me like the powder charge was WAY over max, a double charge or wrong powder maybe, wow.
I guess the revolver bridge is still sticking in the ceiling of the shooting range. :scared:
 
The risk is real. I'm not going to call out on a certain race, but watch for the low grade imported ammo.
 
Back