RIDOX Replica Garage-In Memory of TurnLeft-GT40,300ZX,F430,TVR,AEM S2000,Cizeta,TransAm Doug Nash

[GT6champNK_69]

'Hi Ridox'; wow, sorry, that was the first thing that came to my mind.
Your 'Nissan GT-R LM NISMO '15'; is awesome.
You have tweaked some of its bad habits out, yet it is still manic, but much better from stock.
Keep doing what you do best, because I love your work and your garage is the best, done finish!

Now then I have a suggestion for you Ridox;

Make a replica tune of the 'Nissan Zytek Z11SN Greaves Motorsport '13 LMP2 Car'
I have some information specs I gathered from Ultimatecarpage.com:

NA Aspiration
460 bhp / 343 KW
Torque 570Nm / 420 ft-lb
Redline 7750 rpm
Suspension (f/r) double wishbones, push-rod actuated coil springs and dampers, anti-roll bar
Brakes; Carbon Ceramic discs, all around
Gearbox; X-Trac 626 6 speed semi-Automatic
Clutch; Dry, triple plate
Weight; 900 kg (without fuel and driver)
Fuel tank; 75 litre = 58 kg from 0.78 per litre
Wheels; 18
Power to weight; 0.51 bhp / kg
Configuration; NISMO VK45DE 90' V8
P.S. Remember also that the LMP2 cars runs just above 300 km/h on the first long straight on the Circuit de la Sarthe 2013'. And all new LMP1 cars runs about 325 km/h.
If you can build something out of these information specs I would be very delighted

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

'Hi Ridox'; wow, sorry, that was the first thing that came to my mind.
Your 'Nissan GT-R LM NISMO '15'; is awesome.
You have tweaked some of its bad habits out, yet it is still manic, but much better from stock.
Keep doing what you do best, because I love your work and your garage is the best, done finish!

Now then I have a suggestion for you Ridox;

Make a replica tune of the 'Nissan Zytek Z11SN Greaves Motorsport '13 LMP2 Car'
I have some information specs I gathered from Ultimatecarpage.com:

NA Aspiration
460 bhp / 343 KW
Torque 570Nm / 420 ft-lb
Redline 7750 rpm
Suspension (f/r) double wishbones, push-rod actuated coil springs and dampers, anti-roll bar
Brakes; Carbon Ceramic discs, all around
Gearbox; X-Trac 626 6 speed semi-Automatic
Clutch; Dry, triple plate
Weight; 900 kg (without fuel and driver)
Fuel tank; 75 litre = 58 kg from 0.78 per litre
Wheels; 18
Power to weight; 0.51 bhp / kg
Configuration; NISMO VK45DE 90' V8
P.S. Remember also that the LMP2 cars runs just above 300 km/h on the first long straight on the Circuit de la Sarthe 2013'. And all new LMP1 cars runs about 325 km/h.
If you can build something out of these information specs I would be very delighted

I have that car tuned long ago, a custom setup, so not sure it has the weight right ( could be stock ), it did ran on lowest aero, will check again next time.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

NEED FOR SPEED Shelby Mustang GT500
Aaron Paul Tribute
Special Build NFS Ford Shelby GT500
Comfort Soft to Sports Medium​

​

CAR : Ford Shelby GT500 '13
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Medium

Specs BASE
Horsepower: 901 HP / 914 PS at 7200 RPM
Torque : 852.6 ft-lb at 4700 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1747 kg
Ballast : 24 kg
Ballast Position : -36
Weight Distribution : 57 / 43
Performance Points: 600




GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Aero Kits : Type B ( OPTIONAL )
Rear Wing : Special Wing Type A ( OPTIONAL )
Wheels : Standard Size SSR Professor VF1 painted in Silver Chrome
Car Paint : Ingot Silver Metallic/Blue Stripes



Tuning Parts Installed :
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Sports
Intake Tuning
Supercharger
Fully Customizable Suspension
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Twin Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Adjustable LSD
Window Weight Reduction

​

Suspension - EIBACH Multi Pro R2 Kit

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 87 75
Spring Rate: 7.14 4.92
Dampers (Compression): 4 5
Dampers (Extension): 3 6
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 2
Camber Angle: 0.8 0.0
Toe Angle: 0.10 0.00



DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION
Install all power parts if applicable
Set Default
Set Final to 3.900
Set Auto Max Speed at 450kmh / 280mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 2.660
2nd 1.820
3rd 1.300
4th 1.000
5th 0.770
6th 0.500
Set Final : 3.730



LSD - 1.5 Way LSD
Initial Torque : 15
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 13



Brake Balance:
5/6 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/4, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/6 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

A tribute build for Aaron Paul/Toby Marshall Ford Shelby Mustang featured in Need For Speed movie.
This Mustang is not for the weak mind, on comfort soft, the 900+HP beast is demanding but fun to drive.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

We're just having different level of senses, but it won't hurt to leave it on i.e. 6.



Here comes more like style on case, I'm "never" turning wheel on game or in real-life with speed what exceeds slip angle on tires, if making such mistake I'll correct steer angle quickly back into roll/slip angle of tires. Because of that I'm not facing that losing all feedback situation.



Mark and/or limit wheel 15° turn, go to track and wave car with that ±15° range, save fastest and then do same with tweak applied, compare steering angle on datalogger and you'll find several degree difference.



Yep, even standard settings on rFactor (1) from Logitech supplied CD is awesome, clear and no smog on feedback.
Good excuse to move on

Actually I just tested some more. Leaving CSS too high makes the car too darty on the straights. It's not as apparent with road cars, but with race cars it's more obvious. As I mentioned I believe it's changing the linearity curve from -2 --> +7 as __/ --> /--. Zero seems to be the most linear to me so I'll stick with that.

Well if you're driving on the limit then it's almost unavoidable that you would exceed the slip angle sometime. Even the best F1 drivers do it and have to opposite lock sometime. Also when you are drifting for fun then quick steering movements are also unavoidable.

While on that note, I redact my previous position and I have now embraced Power Steering I increased FFT to 10 to compensate for the slight loss in strength. Actually once you get used to the sudden light steering it's beneficial - you get the resistance when driving normal, and you get faster rotation when countersteering (usually I have to put FFT to 1 for drifting). Oh, and it's less damage for your wheel motor too

I will do that deadzone test. I can feel the deadzone getting larger after a long play session (due to wheel motors overheating). But under normal situations I don't feel there's any advantage to be had (minimal if any).

I agree rFactor base FFB suck. With RealFeel it's a whole different story though. Also GTR2 doesn't have RealFeel, but it's been tweaked by Simbin which makes it much better than stock rFactor FFB. LFS is on a whole different level and can go toe-to-toe with even the likes of AC.

The problem with GT FFB is 2 fold - 1) The base physics are not as good as PC sims, so you're already on the backfoot here. 2) Useful + non-useful forces are all lumped under one setting (FFT) so increasing one will also increase the other. If PD improves the tyre & suspension physics for GTS and added a separate slider for FFB damping/centering spring, then we can talk. Otherwise at the moment I'll just make do with whatever in GT6, because no matter what it's not gonna come close to PC sims anyway.

Anyway, enough with this FFB talk. I don't want to hijack Ridox's thread any further

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Actually I just tested some more. Leaving CSS too high makes the car too darty on the straights. It's not as apparent with road cars, but with race cars it's more obvious. As I mentioned I believe it's changing the linearity curve from -2 --> +7 as __/ --> /--. Zero seems to be the most linear to me so I'll stick with that.

Well if you're driving on the limit then it's almost unavoidable that you would exceed the slip angle sometime. Even the best F1 drivers do it and have to opposite lock sometime. Also when you are drifting for fun then quick steering movements are also unavoidable.

While on that note, I redact my previous position and I have now embraced Power Steering I increased FFT to 10 to compensate for the slight loss in strength. Actually once you get used to the sudden light steering it's beneficial - you get the resistance when driving normal, and you get faster rotation when countersteering (usually I have to put FFT to 1 for drifting). Oh, and it's less damage for your wheel motor too

I will do that deadzone test. I can feel the deadzone getting larger after a long play session (due to wheel motors overheating). But under normal situations I don't feel there's any advantage to be had (minimal if any).

I agree rFactor base FFB suck. With RealFeel it's a whole different story though. Also GTR2 doesn't have RealFeel, but it's been tweaked by Simbin which makes it much better than stock rFactor FFB. LFS is on a whole different level and can go toe-to-toe with even the likes of AC.

The problem with GT FFB is 2 fold - 1) The base physics are not as good as PC sims, so you're already on the backfoot here. 2) Useful + non-useful forces are all lumped under one setting (FFT) so increasing one will also increase the other. If PD improves the tyre & suspension physics for GTS and added a separate slider for FFB damping/centering spring, then we can talk. Otherwise at the moment I'll just make do with whatever in GT6, because no matter what it's not gonna come close to PC sims anyway.

Anyway, enough with this FFB talk. I don't want to hijack Ridox's thread any further

What's amazing about LFS, even when I only played it on keyboard and DS2 stick digital pad, I can feel the tire grip and how the tire flex ( even when I muted the sound and go by visual cues ) GT6 do not have this, and the behavior of the car when sliding to a stop is much more realistic in LFS, the clutch being accessible with keyboard/DS2 also makes it a plus as I always like manual clutch.

Have you tried AC with keyboard or stick controller ( either Xbox or PS controller ) ? If you have, how does it compare to LFS ?

I heard some issues with AC physics regarding tire/camber, do they have been resolved :

-Race tires imbalance between longitudinal and lateral grip, allowing easier acceleration/stable.
-Camber curve, camber not only increases lateral friction coefficient, but also longitudinal friction. There's also indication that it works like linear grip increase, no matter the slip angle, where it should only affect below slip angle limit or low slip angle in general. The increase in lateral force due to camber should be for example, higher at 2 degree slip than 8 degree slip.
-Zero or positive camber may give similar effect to negative camber ( lateral and longitudinal )
-Temperature effect on tire pressure is not working properly, tire pressure increase way too high on open wheel cars as tire temp increases. Spinning the tires on the grass for short time could double tire pressure.
-Kerb of death not completely fixed
-Shoulder tire grip is lacking
-Self Aligning Torque values from tires ( not realistic )
-Tire load sensitivity on high aero cars and grip level gain due to dynamic changes ( inaccurate and simplified )

I also have some question on AC :
-how well AC simulate cars with high frequency/stiff suspension on cars that real life counterpart also have ? ( as good as Rfactor ? ) Some race cars IRL have stiff springs/high frequency, does this carried over in AC setup well ( cars like R8 LMS, GTR GT3, 190E Evo II and F458 Challenge/GT2 - with 200+ to 300+N/mm spring used IRL), or AC has it fudged at lower frequency ?
-Any of these simulated in game : brake temp, oil/engine/water temp, brake wear, chassis flex.
-Is steering lock ( max wheel angle ) and brake pressure adjustable in each car ? Steering ratio also adjustable like in Pcars ?

 

[LeGeNd-1]

I drive with a wheel, so I never tried AC with a controller, sorry.

Camber in AC has been fixed with latest update. Tyre temps work properly now and you can't run unrealistic high values anymore. Not sure about nitty gritty stuff, I've only just got AC earlier this year and haven't been hanging around the official forums.

Kerbs have never been unrealistic in AC. At least not compared to vanilla rFactor.

Again, I don't know the nitty gritty of SAT, but the FFB feels good in this regard. The only exception is when stationary, the wheel doesn't have resistance. rFactor also doesn't have resistance until they added RealFeel parking lot effects. LFS is the only one to have resistance when stationary (don't know if it's actual calculation or they just set constant parameter when=0).

High aero sensitivity has been added in latest update.

Not sure about stiff cars. Race cars do have stiffer springs and they react accordingly.

Brake temp not yet but is planned. Oil/engine/water not in the cards, Kunos said they are just not important for the kind of game AC is. You can blow the engine when revving too long though. Dunno about brake wear and chassis flex.

Steering lock not adjustable. Each car has a preset steering angle that exactly matches real life. Brake bias is adjustable, pressure I don't think so.

It may seem like a lot of nerdy stuff is missing in AC, but somehow Kunos black magic makes the game feel better than anything else in the market currently. Their approach is not to make a racing game like rFactor 2, so that's why they omitted oil/engine/water temps. But for the feeling of driving nothing beats it. Knowing you, Ridox, I think you would not like AC as much as LFS or rFactor. It's less about the tuning and optimization and more about just enjoying the driving. Now if you have a wheel, I think you would appreciate AC a lot more. Do give it a try by all means, but adjust your expectations accordingly 👍

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

I drive with a wheel, so I never tried AC with a controller, sorry.

Camber in AC has been fixed with latest update. Tyre temps work properly now and you can't run unrealistic high values anymore. Not sure about nitty gritty stuff, I've only just got AC earlier this year and haven't been hanging around the official forums.

Kerbs have never been unrealistic in AC. At least not compared to vanilla rFactor.

Again, I don't know the nitty gritty of SAT, but the FFB feels good in this regard. The only exception is when stationary, the wheel doesn't have resistance. rFactor also doesn't have resistance until they added RealFeel parking lot effects. LFS is the only one to have resistance when stationary (don't know if it's actual calculation or they just set constant parameter when=0).

High aero sensitivity has been added in latest update.

Not sure about stiff cars. Race cars do have stiffer springs and they react accordingly.

Brake temp not yet but is planned. Oil/engine/water not in the cards, Kunos said they are just not important for the kind of game AC is. You can blow the engine when revving too long though. Dunno about brake wear and chassis flex.

Steering lock not adjustable. Each car has a preset steering angle that exactly matches real life. Brake bias is adjustable, pressure I don't think so.

It may seem like a lot of nerdy stuff is missing in AC, but somehow Kunos black magic makes the game feel better than anything else in the market currently. Their approach is not to make a racing game like rFactor 2, so that's why they omitted oil/engine/water temps. But for the feeling of driving nothing beats it. Knowing you, Ridox, I think you would not like AC as much as LFS or rFactor. It's less about the tuning and optimization and more about just enjoying the driving. Now if you have a wheel, I think you would appreciate AC a lot more. Do give it a try by all means, but adjust your expectations accordingly 👍

Thanks for the reply, it's good some have been fixed I will get it anyway ( someday when I can get PS4 )

For stiff spring, the race cars like R8 LMS, Nissan GTR GT3, 190E Evo II, F458 GT2, they should have springs with 200+N/mm to 300+N/mm ( 20+kg/mm to 30+kg/mm ) available, and should be performing well for racing on most tracks. The F458 Challenge ( close to GT2 ) for example only have 2 choices of springs for both axle in real life and they are all stiff springs.

How stiff is the springs on race cars that you have tested ?

I understand Kunos decision on temp, I just wished something that was simulated in PS2 game like Tokyo Extreme Racer would be in AC, like engine power loss due to increased boost + engine/oil/water temp from prolonged heavy load running high speed ( overheats ) which can lead to loss of boost on turbo cars.

As for steering lock, AC have drift cars right ? How is it implemented in the likes of AE86 or tuned Supra/RX7 if AC has each car preset angle fixed ? I always doubt about steering angle accuracy in games, until I have the game, I will remain skeptical.

BTW, I have Countach 25th Anniversary in my garage, have you tried it ? Let me know how it compares to AC Countach ( other than FFB ) ? From performance, handling, weight reaction, suspension stiffness, and balance on corners ? I recommend CH or CM tire on GT6 Countach.

 

[OdeFinn]

Actually I just tested some more. Leaving CSS too high makes the car too darty on the straights. It's not as apparent with road cars, but with race cars it's more obvious. As I mentioned I believe it's changing the linearity curve from -2 --> +7 as __/ --> /--. Zero seems to be the most linear to me so I'll stick with that.

Well if you're driving on the limit then it's almost unavoidable that you would exceed the slip angle sometime. Even the best F1 drivers do it and have to opposite lock sometime. Also when you are drifting for fun then quick steering movements are also unavoidable.

Sounds liike you have steering settings something else than simulation, those are changing linearity, sensitivity setting gives most strict linear when used on 6-7, this confirmation is coming from my self and several friends, all having real-life experience of driving car from 1Mkm to nearly 3Mkm, it just feels unreal on other settings.
But driving a car is based on feel, someone wants car to react slowly and they need/want excessive toe out etc.
Those things you mentioned about race car is thing what made me search thru all settings to find most realistic way to have wheel react, and if tweak is not applied and steering wheel has deadzone on center and car is having even tiny bit of toe on front it will shake car steering as much as there is deadzone on steering, you just can't keep it straight because you have play on steering.
Then if you have steering setting on ie amateur front wheels turn more/less than your steering and you lose control of them when steering cross center area.
All settings as mentioned and only thing on race car is that at you have to keep wheel on hand all-time, if you want to rest your hands on straights you have two choices, realistic and unrealistic, for realism you'll have to setup your toe to keep car straight on straights, i.e. toe in on front, or more toe in on rear than front toe out + camber throw are pulling wheels out. Or unrealistic way, just reduce steering sensitivity.
I'm driving all cars including PD Formula etc with those settings what mentioned, I have zero problems on straight, because I have made settings on car to keep it straight enough when driving straight.
Summa summarum, when settings aren't fine in real way you'll face big problems on driving, as it should be, this is thing what I really like on PD programming, you just can't drive Formula car with crazy settings
So no darty cars, only darty settings.

While on that note, I redact my previous position and I have now embraced Power Steering I increased FFT to 10 to compensate for the slight loss in strength. Actually once you get used to the sudden light steering it's beneficial - you get the resistance when driving normal, and you get faster rotation when countersteering (usually I have to put FFT to 1 for drifting). Oh, and it's less damage for your wheel motor too

I will do that deadzone test. I can feel the deadzone getting larger after a long play session (due to wheel motors overheating). But under normal situations I don't feel there's any advantage to be had (minimal if any).

I like that motor saving aspect too, one bonus for driving like that, plus you really know when you broke traction, free wheeling then, as it is on real-life. Never had a problem on overheating my G27, 7-10 hours running with 1-2 hour stints and it just keeps rocking.

Your deadzone increasing due warming isn't other than your wheel engine bed is loose, when it warms it starts to give more tolerance, tighten those four bed screws on bottom of your wheel. Other thing what gives tolerance due warming is optical reader mount, two screws on it, should check at once in a year at least, that needs wheel housing open to perform. Tweak isn't for those problems

I agree rFactor base FFB suck. With RealFeel it's a whole different story though. Also GTR2 doesn't have RealFeel, but it's been tweaked by Simbin which makes it much better than stock rFactor FFB. LFS is on a whole different level and can go toe-to-toe with even the likes of AC.

rFactor vanilla FFB sucks, but that what came with wheel, fixed with Logitech FFB is great unless you change anything on settings and it drops out Logitech fix, then you need those real FFB and others to get it back.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Thanks for the reply, it's good some have been fixed I will get it anyway ( someday when I can get PS4 )

For stiff spring, the race cars like R8 LMS, Nissan GTR GT3, 190E Evo II, F458 GT2, they should have springs with 200+N/mm to 300+N/mm ( 20+kg/mm to 30+kg/mm ) available, and should be performing well for racing on most tracks. The F458 Challenge ( close to GT2 ) for example only have 2 choices of springs for both axle in real life and they are all stiff springs.

How stiff is the springs on race cars that you have tested ?

I understand Kunos decision on temp, I just wished something that was simulated in PS2 game like Tokyo Extreme Racer would be in AC, like engine power loss due to increased boost + engine/oil/water temp from prolonged heavy load running high speed ( overheats ) which can lead to loss of boost on turbo cars.

As for steering lock, AC have drift cars right ? How is it implemented in the likes of AE86 or tuned Supra/RX7 if AC has each car preset angle fixed ? I always doubt about steering angle accuracy in games, until I have the game, I will remain skeptical.

BTW, I have Countach 25th Anniversary in my garage, have you tried it ? Let me know how it compares to AC Countach ( other than FFB ) ? From performance, handling, weight reaction, suspension stiffness, and balance on corners ? I recommend CH or CM tire on GT6 Countach.

If you watch the first 10 minutes or so he goes through all the tuning parameters here. Spring rate is called wheel rate in AC. It's around 140 front and 100 rear for the 458 GT2. Dunno what units they're in though.



The temp issue, I believe it's simply because Kunos doesn't want people to obsess over minutiae detail that doesn't impact driving. It isn't like rFactor where if you haven't got your radiator opening big enough in a long race, you will blow your engine. Make no mistake, the Lotus 98T in AC you can set turbo boost on the fly from 10-100%. If you set it at 100% and continue to rev at redline, it WILL blow after 1-2 laps. You just don't see specific oil/water temps. IMO, if tyre and brake temps are in that's good enough for me. I drive with mechanical damage off anyway

Drift cars feel good. In fact, AC is probably the only game that's as good as LFS when it comes to drifting. Seriously, you won't miss the steering adjustment. Every car has been supplied with the correct specs from manufacturer, and in case of the fictional drift cars it's been fine tuned to perfection. If you still don't like it though, I'm sure you can just modify the files in notepad as AC is highly moddable (I would highly suggest getting AC on PC, not console for this reason).

Countach is on the list. I've been meaning to test out your cars but between posting here and getting distracted by other games I haven't been able to. Yesterday I was in the mood for enduros after watching Le Mans and ended up doing 24 Minutes of Le Mans, Nurburgring, Spa, Bathurst and Daytona in a row

Also, mate, you should consider getting a wheel. A Logitech G29 will be perfect for you. No matter what your situation, it's a huge waste of talent if you keep using a DS2. You are already doing amazing things with it, I can't imagine how much better your tunes will be with a proper control system. Consider it 👍👍

Sounds liike you have steering settings something else than simulation, those are changing linearity, sensitivity setting gives most strict linear when used on 6-7, this confirmation is coming from my self and several friends, all having real-life experience of driving car from 1Mkm to nearly 3Mkm, it just feels unreal on other settings.
But driving a car is based on feel, someone wants car to react slowly and they need/want excessive toe out etc.
Those things you mentioned about race car is thing what made me search thru all settings to find most realistic way to have wheel react, and if tweak is not applied and steering wheel has deadzone on center and car is having even tiny bit of toe on front it will shake car steering as much as there is deadzone on steering, you just can't keep it straight because you have play on steering.
Then if you have steering setting on ie amateur front wheels turn more/less than your steering and you lose control of them when steering cross center area.
All settings as mentioned and only thing on race car is that at you have to keep wheel on hand all-time, if you want to rest your hands on straights you have two choices, realistic and unrealistic, for realism you'll have to setup your toe to keep car straight on straights, i.e. toe in on front, or more toe in on rear than front toe out + camber throw are pulling wheels out. Or unrealistic way, just reduce steering sensitivity.
I'm driving all cars including PD Formula etc with those settings what mentioned, I have zero problems on straight, because I have made settings on car to keep it straight enough when driving straight.
Summa summarum, when settings aren't fine in real way you'll face big problems on driving, as it should be, this is thing what I really like on PD programming, you just can't drive Formula car with crazy settings
So no darty cars, only darty settings.



I like that motor saving aspect too, one bonus for driving like that, plus you really know when you broke traction, free wheeling then, as it is on real-life. Never had a problem on overheating my G27, 7-10 hours running with 1-2 hour stints and it just keeps rocking.

Your deadzone increasing due warming isn't other than your wheel engine bed is loose, when it warms it starts to give more tolerance, tighten those four bed screws on bottom of your wheel. Other thing what gives tolerance due warming is optical reader mount, two screws on it, should check at once in a year at least, that needs wheel housing open to perform. Tweak isn't for those problems



rFactor vanilla FFB sucks, but that what came with wheel, fixed with Logitech FFB is great unless you change anything on settings and it drops out Logitech fix, then you need those real FFB and others to get it back.

Well mate, I have nothing to say. My setting says Simulation in options. I've been driving for 12 years now so I know what a real car feels like. Maybe I have a magical G25. Or maybe your wheel is losing linearity, so using +6 for you helps mask the problem. In any case, the difference from -2 to 0 to +7 is not big for me, but it is slightly uncomfortable in race cars, and I just prefer 0. Sorry but it is what it is.

I have no problems with cars weaving down straights. Most of my cars use negative 0.10-0.15 front toe. Formula cars, Red Bulls, all fine. Except maybe Tomahawk X at La Sarthe, but that car is crazy

Well I do have my FFT set to 10. Yours you said is around 5-6 so that makes a difference. Also my G25 is now almost 8 years old, and has gone through LOTS of abuse back in GT5 days driving the Red Bull X cars for money. For what it's worth, if I have a Thrustmaster it would probably have exploded in the first week. All things considered, I'm not complaining.

I should give those bottom screws a check. The original optical reader broke last year and I replaced it with a brass one, also tightened all the screws on it, so it's not the problem.

I just don't understand your last sentence, sorry Basically in summary is, with PC sims stock settings are good (LFS, AC, GTR2), or you can mod it to be better (rFactor with RealFeel). With GT, even with all the things you've said, it's still not much of an improvement and still nowhere near PC sims. I'll just stick with what works for me so far in GT6. When GTS drops, we'll continue the discussion, OK?

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Takumi Fujiwara AE86 Initial D

Special Build Takumi AE86
Comfort Soft​

CAR : Toyota Sprinter Trueno GT-Apex ( Shuichi Shigeno Version ) '00
Tire : Comfort Soft

Specs BASE
Horsepower: 240 HP / 243 PS at 9300 RPM
Torque : 148.8 ft-lb at 7800 RPM
Power Limiter at : 95.9%
Weight: 850 kg
Ballast : 98 kg
Ballast Position : -50
Weight Distribution : 62 / 38
Performance Points: 448




GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Panda White



Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Semi Racing Exhaust
Fully Customizable Suspension
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Twin Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Adjustable LSD
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Window Weight Reduction




Suspension - TRD N2 Spec Kit
TAKUMI GRIP DAMPER
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 100 120
Spring Rate: 8.00 8.00
Dampers (Compression): 3 5
Dampers (Extension): 2 2
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 1.5 0.0
Toe Angle: 0.05 0.00


Suspension - TRD N2 Spec Kit
TAKUMI TOUGE DAMPER
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 100 120
Spring Rate: 8.00 8.00
Dampers (Compression): 3 4
Dampers (Extension): 2 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 1.5 0.0
Toe Angle: 0.05 0.00



OPTIONAL DAMPER + ARB FOR LOOSE HANDLING :
Dampers (Compression): 3 3
Dampers (Extension): 2 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 4

USE STOCK - OR
DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - TRD Cross Gear Set 1-3 AE851 with TRD Competition Final
Install all power parts if applicable
Set Default
Set Auto Max Speed at 330kmh / 205mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 2.630
2nd 1.891
3rd 1.384
4th 1.000
5th 0.861
Set Final : 5.375 or OPTIONAL Dori Dori Final 4.778



LSD - TRD 2 Way with High Preload
Initial Torque : 60
Acceleration Sensitivity: 28
Braking Sensitivity: 28





Brake Balance:
5/7 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/7 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

A simple tune, made in about 15 minutes, so expect improvement later on, mainly on specs. Tested at Rome, able to lap in 1:24s on CS, using Takumi Grip Damper.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

If you watch the first 10 minutes or so he goes through all the tuning parameters here. Spring rate is called wheel rate in AC. It's around 140 front and 100 rear for the 458 GT2. Dunno what units they're in though.



The temp issue, I believe it's simply because Kunos doesn't want people to obsess over minutiae detail that doesn't impact driving. It isn't like rFactor where if you haven't got your radiator opening big enough in a long race, you will blow your engine. Make no mistake, the Lotus 98T in AC you can set turbo boost on the fly from 10-100%. If you set it at 100% and continue to rev at redline, it WILL blow after 1-2 laps. You just don't see specific oil/water temps. IMO, if tyre and brake temps are in that's good enough for me. I drive with mechanical damage off anyway

Drift cars feel good. In fact, AC is probably the only game that's as good as LFS when it comes to drifting. Seriously, you won't miss the steering adjustment. Every car has been supplied with the correct specs from manufacturer, and in case of the fictional drift cars it's been fine tuned to perfection. If you still don't like it though, I'm sure you can just modify the files in notepad as AC is highly moddable (I would highly suggest getting AC on PC, not console for this reason).

Countach is on the list. I've been meaning to test out your cars but between posting here and getting distracted by other games I haven't been able to. Yesterday I was in the mood for enduros after watching Le Mans and ended up doing 24 Minutes of Le Mans, Nurburgring, Spa, Bathurst and Daytona in a row

Also, mate, you should consider getting a wheel. A Logitech G29 will be perfect for you. No matter what your situation, it's a huge waste of talent if you keep using a DS2. You are already doing amazing things with it, I can't imagine how much better your tunes will be with a proper control system. Consider it 👍👍

Looks like AC hides the springs, instead shown the wheel rate, why not both ? For tuning, wheel rate is much easier, it's what the rate at the wheel receiving, but knowing the springs rate also shows that the suspension system simulated properly ( type and motion ratio etc ) For the F458 GT2, that 140/100 is in the ballpark, the actual springs rate is much higher though due to motion ratio.

So, in AC engine just blow, no deteriorating performance, smokes or noise before hand that tells the engine is dying ?

I think you are trusting too easily with correct specs from manufacturer for every car, until verified, it's not 100% true, car data is difficult process to gather even if you have direct channel to manufacturer Shame I don't have PC fast enough for AC, but I can still open the AC files to see the car spring rate etc if someone provides me with the car data Curious how Kunos treat the Japanese cars like RX7, I have OEM data on suspension for FD3S, GT5 RX7 Efini was close, and GT6 ruin it Ferrari F40, I have the data for OEM springs, including corner weight, BOSCH dyno, but I doubt it will match with Kunos F40

For wheel, nah, no money now and I have limited space, dog running around DS2 works well enough, I often drive with tv muted and no HUD, still can do it on cars with cockpit view ( use the tach )

 

[LeGeNd-1]

WOO AE86!!! I know what I'm doing tonight

The weight seems a bit low though. The anime car only has carbon hood + lighter windows so not sure why you used weight reduction S3. Also I thought real Trueno has 53:47 weight distribution?

Body rigidity I also think needs installing, as per anime. Unless you think the stock chassis is stiff enough already.

Also that LSD Preload is pretty high

Looks like AC hides the springs, instead shown the wheel rate, why not both ? For tuning, wheel rate is much easier, it's what the rate at the wheel receiving, but knowing the springs rate also shows that the suspension system simulated properly ( type and motion ratio etc ) For the F458 GT2, that 140/100 is in the ballpark, the actual springs rate is much higher though due to motion ratio.

So, in AC engine just blow, no deteriorating performance, smokes or noise before hand that tells the engine is dying ?

I think you are trusting too easily with correct specs from manufacturer for every car, until verified, it's not 100% true, car data is difficult process to gather even if you have direct channel to manufacturer Shame I don't have PC fast enough for AC, but I can still open the AC files to see the car spring rate etc if someone provides me with the car data Curious how Kunos treat the Japanese cars like RX7, I have OEM data on suspension for FD3S, GT5 RX7 Efini was close, and GT6 ruin it Ferrari F40, I have the data for OEM springs, including corner weight, BOSCH dyno, but I doubt it will match with Kunos F40

For wheel, nah, no money now and I have limited space, dog running around DS2 works well enough, I often drive with tv muted and no HUD, still can do it on cars with cockpit view ( use the tach )

Glad to see the values are correct for wheel rate I was worried AC is going to fail your standards even before you buy it If it's any help, AC also has live suspension telemetry like LFS. I can't remember off the top of my head if spring rate is shown though. Gonna have to check that.

Well there is a damage indicator that flashes red everytime you redline it. I'm not sure the performance deteriorates before it blows completely. There is definitely smoke though

When Kunos license a car, they give the manufacturer a blank table with all the required parameters. Unless the manufacturers straight out lie, I think we can be pretty trusting. It's more detailed than brochure or wikipedia numbers, that's for sure. In fact, Ferrari used to employ Kunos for their in house simulations. Wouldn't make sense for them to supply incorrect numbers. Also if you don't know Kunos' office is right in the middle of Vallelunga circuit. So they also test the cars and go back to the game to make it handle the same, even if it means fudging the numbers a bit. This is a point of contention in forums AC vs rF2. Personally, the cars all handle like I expect them too so I have no complaints.

Kunos, like ISI, also provides a Pro version of their software for race teams and such. This is the real deal mate. As close as we're ever gonna get unless we sit in McLaren's simulator lol.

I remember one of GT6 updates broke all stock camber and toe values. PD is weird

Understand your situation mate. As I said do consider it though. Money can be saved. Dog can be...caged But you clearly have the passion and talent for this thing. It's worth it. You know you want it 👍

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

WOO AE86!!! I know what I'm doing tonight

The weight seems a bit low though. The anime car only has carbon hood + lighter windows so not sure why you used weight reduction S3. Also I thought real Trueno has 53:47 weight distribution?

Body rigidity I also think needs installing, as per anime. Unless you think the stock chassis is stiff enough already.

Also that LSD Preload is pretty high



Glad to see the values are correct for wheel rate I was worried AC is going to fail your standards even before you buy it If it's any help, AC also has live suspension telemetry like LFS. I can't remember off the top of my head if spring rate is shown though. Gonna have to check that.

Well there is a damage indicator that flashes red everytime you redline it. I'm not sure the performance deteriorates before it blows completely. There is definitely smoke though

When Kunos license a car, they give the manufacturer a blank table with all the required parameters. Unless the manufacturers straight out lie, I think we can be pretty trusting. It's more detailed than brochure or wikipedia numbers, that's for sure. In fact, Ferrari used to employ Kunos for their in house simulations. Wouldn't make sense for them to supply incorrect numbers. Also if you don't know Kunos' office is right in the middle of Vallelunga circuit. So they also test the cars and go back to the game to make it handle the same, even if it means fudging the numbers a bit. This is a point of contention in forums AC vs rF2. Personally, the cars all handle like I expect them too so I have no complaints.

I remember one of GT6 updates broke all stock camber and toe values. PD is weird lol.

Understand your situation mate. As I said do consider it though. Money can be saved. Dog can be...caged But you clearly have the passion and talent for this thing. It's worth it. You know you want it 👍

For the AE86, I only set it by about 50kg lighter than Dori Dori personal AE86, maybe too light, but I can change it again if needed, it's an early build

For weight distribution, official number is 53% front, but the real car tend to hover from 54-55% front, some even 56+% depending on market, condition and mods. The weight loss/diet comprise mostly of body parts, which shaved a lot around the middle and rear of the car, except for the hood. I set it initially with front heaviest balance, this makes it easier for me when I decided to move the ballast rearward, the handling is much easier to tweak.

For preload, yeah, it's high as I wanted aggressive LSD typically used on tarmac rally on mountain roads. Chassis feels stiff enough stock, stiffer than ordinary AE86 it seems, try the car and feel it yourself, the car is so sharp and barely moved around when using the optional loose damper/ARB setup

Requesting manufacturer to fill blank table do not guarantee accuracy Manufacturer tend to stick with official marketing specs, and suspension data may be not completely given, like for old cars ( Supra, R34 GTR, RX7, F40 etc ). Easy example, power, JDM cars have official 280PS limit, actual power can only be obtained from dyno session of stock car, R34 GTR hover from 340-350+ PS stock ( depend on fuel quality+intake temp ). Ferrari F40 is notoriously underrated from factory, stock engine/boost trim it spits 500+PS on BOSCH wheel/chassis dyno back in early 90's , RUF CTR is even crazier, also 500+PS on BOSCH wheel dyno.

F40 stock springs : approx 58 N/mm front and 84 N/mm rear, wheel rate should be lower than those.
R34 GTR stock springs : 4 kg/mm front and 5kg/mm rear
RX7 FD3S early 90's stock springs : 46-49 N/mm front and 34-35 N/mm rear
Supra JAZ80 MKIV US/UK stock spring : 7.6 kg/mm front and 3.9 kg/mm rear ( JDM is not much different )

GT6 spring rate for stock suspension on most cars have been changed from GT5, mostly stiffer, like the Efini RX7 and F40, they are ruined in GT6.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Thanks for explaining the AE86 settings. If I recall the car description in game also mentioned that roll cage has been installed in the SS version, so maybe that's why it's so stiff already. Surprised that tarmac rally uses high preload. I thought with all that tight corners you'd want more rotation in the car.

I just checked Assetto Corsa power specs:
F40 478 HP
R34 325 HP
RX7 Spirit R 276 HP
Supra 280 HP
RUF Yellowbird 469 HP

So yes, they used actual power figures for the Japanese cars. The F40 and RUF numbers seem low compared to your dyno results. But Ferrari especially are known to boost their press cars

Suspension settings, believe it or not, are not available to view on stock road cars. You can only change tyre pressure, camber and toe. What can't be changed on the real car can't be changed in AC. And since there's no tuning in the game, you can't purchase fully customizable suspension like in GT either. The only way is to delve into the game files, but I'm not smart enough to do that yet. If you ask around in the AC forums there will be people who can be more helpful.

Tuning is generally limited with AC in non-race cars. As I mentioned the devs just want you jump in and drive without worrying about the finer details. What do you think? Still interested in AC?

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Thanks for explaining the AE86 settings. If I recall the car description in game also mentioned that roll cage has been installed in the SS version, so maybe that's why it's so stiff already. Surprised that tarmac rally uses high preload. I thought with all that tight corners you'd want more rotation in the car.

I just checked Assetto Corsa power specs:
F40 478 HP
R34 325 HP
RX7 Spirit R 276 HP
Supra 280 HP
RUF Yellowbird 469 HP

So yes, they used actual power figures for the Japanese cars. The F40 and RUF numbers seem low compared to your dyno results. But Ferrari especially are known to boost their press cars

Suspension settings, believe it or not, are not available to view on stock road cars. You can only change tyre pressure, camber and toe. What can't be changed on the real car can't be changed in AC. And since there's no tuning in the game, you can't purchase fully customizable suspension like in GT either. The only way is to delve into the game files, but I'm not smart enough to do that yet. If you ask around in the AC forums there will be people who can be more helpful.

Tuning is generally limited with AC in non-race cars. As I mentioned the devs just want you jump in and drive without worrying about the finer details. What do you think? Still interested in AC?

The F40 and RUF CTR numbers were from Best Motoring test, Dyno session at Veilside Garage, using BOSCH chassis/wheel dyno and the F40 and CTR were privately owned, if I remember exclusive European Exotic dealer Art Sports. Not press cars and they were stock boost. This was early 90s, cars were still relatively new ( low mileaga )

R34 only 325HP ? That is R33 stock numbers range ( 320-330+HP ), R32 could already put out 320HP in stock trim ( even with more than 50k km on the odo )

So AC RX7 is the last gen FD3S Spirit R Typical stock series VIII FD3S produces between 290-310HP, the 276/280PS is Japanese limit. Series VIII FD3S could go toe to toe/very close with NA2 NSX Type R and R34 GTR in straight line acceleration ( not possible with only 276HP )
Supra, 280HP, that is way too low 1994 stock Supra produces 334+HP.

You need to understand actual JDM cars power are only accurate from stock dyno numbers, brochure, or official manufacturer statements are most of the time inaccurate.

I know about AC road cars suspension being hidden which draws suspicion on my part I have tools to open it that I got from the web, someone here already gave me car data files before and I even asked to mod a Supra mod by editing the files, blindly and the result was not pretty Now, there's official Supra

Imagine what I would do on PC, modding AC cars

I will still get AC, I like racing games, from Sega Rally, Daytona USA to Nascar Racing 2003, LFS and GPL All flavors.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Well that's the number that they decided on. I know about the Japanese gentlemen agreement rule. Their R34 is 325 HP and not 276 HP, so they are obviously not quoting brochures. I agree stock R34/RX7/Supra should be higher. Things could still change. AC is always a work in progress. You can also raise the issue on their forums (http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php), but right now you can only post if you have Steam version of the game. I'm sure they will open it to console users once it's out. Be nice though, the devs can be a bit protective sometimes.

If you already have the tools, I'm pretty sure you can get the files for the rest of the game (non-legal way, I'm sure you know how & where ). Don't need to run the game, just tinker around the files. The cars are all labelled with proper names so it should be easy to find. You can tell me if they are inaccurate

And yes, you should get AC on PC, in addition to a wheel. I'm not gonna stop pestering you about this

Glad to see you share my view on racing games though. I play anything with 4 wheels in it. Arcade, simcade, sim, old, new, PC, console, whatever. You can only really become an expert when you have tested everything there is to offer, good and bad 👍

 

[Pete05]

The F40 and RUF CTR numbers were from Best Motoring test, Dyno session at Veilside Garage, using BOSCH chassis/wheel dyno and the F40 and CTR were privately owned, if I remember exclusive European Exotic dealer Art Sports. Not press cars and they were stock boost. This was early 90s, cars were still relatively new ( low mileaga )

R34 only 325HP ? That is R33 stock numbers range ( 320-330+HP ), R32 could already put out 320HP in stock trim ( even with more than 50k km on the odo )

So AC RX7 is the last gen FD3S Spirit R Typical stock series VIII FD3S produces between 290-310HP, the 276/280PS is Japanese limit. Series VIII FD3S could go toe to toe/very close with NA2 NSX Type R and R34 GTR in straight line acceleration ( not possible with only 276HP )
Supra, 280HP, that is way too low 1994 stock Supra produces 334+HP.

You need to understand actual JDM cars power are only accurate from stock dyno numbers, brochure, or official manufacturer statements are most of the time inaccurate.

I know about AC road cars suspension being hidden which draws suspicion on my part I have tools to open it that I got from the web, someone here already gave me car data files before and I even asked to mod a Supra mod by editing the files, blindly and the result was not pretty Now, there's official Supra

Imagine what I would do on PC, modding AC cars

I will still get AC, I like racing games, from Sega Rally, Daytona USA to Nascar Racing 2003, LFS and GPL All flavors.

Wow! Thanks for the time warp Ridox.
Sega Rally & Daytona USA are two games I haven't played since I got my original PlayStation all those years ago.
I played Daytona USA so much, I should really have shares in Sega. I shudder at the thought of someone secretly keeping track of my total spend & revealing the number to me.
At one stage I had every record visible on screen for all 3 tracks. I can also remember the elation when I got to finish the final stage on Sega Rally and then the fact feeling when I realized that was it. No next stage, no free game; only a blinking _ waiting for me to enter my tag.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Well that's the number that they decided on. I know about the Japanese gentlemen agreement rule. Their R34 is 325 HP and not 276 HP, so they are obviously not quoting brochures. I agree stock R34/RX7/Supra should be higher. Things could still change. AC is always a work in progress. You can also raise the issue on their forums (http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php), but right now you can only post if you have Steam version of the game. I'm sure they will open it to console users once it's out. Be nice though, the devs can be a bit protective sometimes.

If you already have the tools, I'm pretty sure you can get the files for the rest of the game (non-legal way, I'm sure you know how & where ). Don't need to run the game, just tinker around the files. The cars are all labelled with proper names so it should be easy to find. You can tell me if they are inaccurate

And yes, you should get AC on PC, in addition to a wheel. I'm not gonna stop pestering you about this

Glad to see you share my view on racing games though. I play anything with 4 wheels in it. Arcade, simcade, sim, old, new, PC, console, whatever. You can only really become an expert when you have tested everything there is to offer, good and bad 👍

I think R34 325HP is taken from the web, maybe wiki ? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Skyline_GT-R

I don't think I will pester Kunos for car specs, they made the decision, I'm sure if they know about these cars, research them, would know the cars actual power.

I have the AC tools, but not the game files, someone gave me the car data once the check something If you want, you can send me via PM the car folder

I tested again the AE86, at Matterhorn Short ( shortest track ) and it did 28s lap on Takumi Touge Damper, really sharp to drive there, but still fun nonetheless.

Wow! Thanks for the time warp Ridox.
Sega Rally & Daytona USA are two games I haven't played since I got my original PlayStation all those years ago.
I played Daytona USA so much, I should really have shares in Sega. I shudder at the thought of someone secretly keeping track of my total spend & revealing the number to me.
At one stage I had every record visible on screen for all 3 tracks. I can also remember the elation when I got to finish the final stage on Sega Rally and then the fact feeling when I realized that was it. No next stage, no free game; only a blinking _ waiting for me to enter my tag.

Sega was the best in arcade games back in the day I loved Sega Rally, played it a lot at arcades, beat the game many times, then I bought the PC version, still have the CD along with Daytona USA and Sega Touring Car The graphics are worse than arcade, but still fun. I also now have arcade emulator for them, complete ROMs

You should know that Daytona USA is available on PSN ( PS3 ), I have it for years, still play it, and it still awesome as ever.

 

[Pete05]

I think R34 325HP is taken from the web, maybe wiki ? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Skyline_GT-R

I don't think I will pester Kunos for car specs, they made the decision, I'm sure if they know about these cars, research them, would know the cars actual power.

I have the AC tools, but not the game files, someone gave me the car data once the check something If you want, you can send me via PM the car folder

I tested again the AE86, at Matterhorn Short ( shortest track ) and it did 28s lap on Takumi Touge Damper, really sharp to drive there, but still fun nonetheless.



Sega was the best in arcade games back in the day I loved Sega Rally, played it a lot at arcades, beat the game many times, then I bought the PC version, still have the CD along with Daytona USA and Sega Touring Car The graphics are worse than arcade, but still fun. I also now have arcade emulator for them, complete ROMs

You should know that Daytona USA is available on PSN ( PS3 ), I have it for years, still play it, and it still awesome as ever.

As someone who started with Outrun (Ferrari Testarossa?), then Ridge Racer, the release of the Sega games with their graphics and, shock horror, 4-speed gearboxes, was like fast forwarding to the 21st century.
I haven't set foot in one of those gaming arcades for around 20 years & that's probably a good thing. It'd spoil the memories for me of how good it was back then.

 

[GT6champNK_69]

Oooh the 'Outrun' with that red open testarossa and the lady hopping in, great memories from my childhood in the great 80s. Do any of you remember the Amstrad, the gaming station with a keyboard and Cassette loader. I remember having my school bodies over or being at their home and we gladly sat there and waited an half hour loading the Cassette and had to hid the right spot to start the game, and if not, it was all over again. Later on I played Formula One Legends on Commodore 64 with my cousin. Then we played Colin McRae Rally on Playstation one, and then came Gran Turismo, that was it, it took us by storm I remember, we played it all the time, it was 1998 in January in Denmark, I was 17 years old, and my Gran Turismo journey started there till now. Two games I don't understand isn't in PlayStation store is 'Toca Championship' and Toca Race Driver, great games, in Toca Race Driver I loved those small interception movie parts that had great story lines. I was just thinking back and got carried away, nostalgic times

 

[LeGeNd-1]

I think R34 325HP is taken from the web, maybe wiki ? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Skyline_GT-R

I don't think I will pester Kunos for car specs, they made the decision, I'm sure if they know about these cars, research them, would know the cars actual power.

I have the AC tools, but not the game files, someone gave me the car data once the check something If you want, you can send me via PM the car folder

I tested again the AE86, at Matterhorn Short ( shortest track ) and it did 28s lap on Takumi Touge Damper, really sharp to drive there, but still fun nonetheless.

Well the folder is pretty big so I doubt you can send it using PM here. I was suggesting more along the lines of you downloading the whole game for "free". Sorry forum rules I can't get more specific than that or I'll get in trouble.

BTW, I have another tuning questions. When tuning spring rate, my thought is you should have higher springs on the end of the car that has more weight (so rear heavy = rear stiffer, front heavy = front stiffer). But looking at your tunes and some stock settings sometimes I see it's the opposite. I'm thinking it's because some rear heavy cars are just so oversteery, you need much softer rears. Vice versa for front heavy cars (soft front to combat understeer). If so, how do you decide to go one route or the other? Or is it just trial and error?

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Well the folder is pretty big so I doubt you can send it using PM here. I was suggesting more along the lines of you downloading the whole game for "free". Sorry forum rules I can't get more specific than that or I'll get in trouble.

BTW, I have another tuning questions. When tuning spring rate, my thought is you should have higher springs on the end of the car that has more weight (so rear heavy = rear stiffer, front heavy = front stiffer). But looking at your tunes and some stock settings sometimes I see it's the opposite. I'm thinking it's because some rear heavy cars are just so oversteery, you need much softer rears. Vice versa for front heavy cars (soft front to combat understeer). If so, how do you decide to go one route or the other? Or is it just trial and error?

I mean the specific car folder where suspension is It's a small .ini file if not mistaken.

Springs, I usually go by real life practice for the car, like aftermarket coilover rates, typical tuner spring choices etc or stock springs adapted to stiffer rate.

On MR cars with heavier rear, softer rear can be good as long as the car damper/ARB is set to work with it, example in real life : NA2 NSX Type R. In game I have built Oulim Motor Spirra tune, it also uses same method, softer rear as NSX, and it works wonderful

http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/difficult-car-spotlight-oullim-motors-spirra.306298/page-3

GT6 also seems to model each car motion ratio, so cars like Corvette, Viper, R33/R34 GTR, BMW 1M, BMW E92 M3, BMW M4 etc which has softer front springs, works in similar way in GT6. In real life, some cars have different suspension geometry that requires stiffer rate to maintain similar or close / balanced wheel rate to the other end / ride frequency. This often happens when say, FR car has front McPherson strut and rear multi link/double wishbone suspension, which causes the front to be much softer in spring rate, and rear could a lot higher. On the other hand, a FR car with all double wishbone suspension on both ends, may have higher rate front and lower rear to maintain balance.

The best way in GT6, try both possibility, higher rear/lower front and lower front/higher rear on a car you are working on, either one should work or if not, try same rate ( often works well - example, RX7 FD3S and Honda S20000 like in real life tuner spring rate which often use same rate, 16/16, 10/10 or slightly different either front/rear - 16/18 or 12/10, depending on tires/purpose - high speed track, touge, drift etc )

The Initial D AE86 uses TRD N2 kit spring rate used by Keiichi Tsuchiya on his personal AE86, 8kg/mm front and rear, his car evolved a lot, he used variety of spring rate depending on track ( Ebisu, Tsukuba etc ) he also used 9kg/mm front-8kg/mm rear. Stiff springs is not bad, you just have to tune the damper well to work with it. Most of my race cars uses almost max spring rate

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

I will be posting Sega Touring Car tribute cars soon, doing BOP now for fun race online spec tune

Alfa Romeo 155 V6 Ti
Opel Calibra V6 4X4 Touring Car
Toyota Supra JGTC Tom's Castrol
Mercedes CLK Touring Car ( stand in for C180 DTM ) D2
Dodge Viper GTSR ( special addition )
Mitsubishi FTO Super Touring Car ( special addition )
Tuned up Special as appeared on Sega Touring Car Home Edition :
Toyota Celica ST205 GT4 WRC - Sega Rally
Lancia Delta HF Integrale WRC - Sega Rally

Track for BOP : Midfield, 1:11/12s and Daytona Road 1:53s on Sports Medium tires.

Need to work on the WRC cars Thinking of adding R32 and R33 GTR Touring Car as well ( also Lancia Stratos WRC + Corvette race car )

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Nissan Zytek Z11SN Greaves Motorsport '13

Special Build Nissan Zytek Z11SN LMP2
Sports Hard to Racing Hard​

CAR : Nissan Zytek Z11SN Greaves Motorsport '13
Tire : Sports Hard to Racing Hard


Specs BASE
Horsepower: 454 HP / 460 PS at 6700 RPM
Torque : 441.6 ft-lb at 4000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 96.3%
Weight: 955 kg
Ballast : 55 kg
Ballast Position : 25
Weight Distribution : 49 / 51
Performance Points: 604



GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Stock



Tuning Parts Installed :
Racing Exhaust
Fully Customizable Suspension
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Adjustable LSD




Suspension - Push Rod Custom Setup
Balanced Damper
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 50 50
Spring Rate: 14.28 16.32
Dampers (Compression): 4 7
Dampers (Extension): 4 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 2
Camber Angle: 4.0 2.8
Toe Angle: 0.20 0.10

OPTIONAL REAR DAMPER EXTENSION at 7 ( More stable rear, less eager to rotate )-Highly Recommended.
-Go lower if needed ( 6 )

OPTIONAL
MEDIUM SPRINGS : F/R 17.34 20.40
STIFF SPRINGS : F/R 20.40 22.44



DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Xtrac 626 / Ricardo 6 Speed ( Adapted Ratio based on Xtrac 426 Range )
Install all power parts if applicable
Set Default
Set Final to 4.500
Set Auto Max Speed at 250kmh / 155mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.000
2nd 2.067
3rd 1.600
4th 1.300
5th 1.100
6th 0.960
Set Final : 3.133 ( Xtrac 626 Final Range )



LSD - NISMO/Xtrac 2 Way BASE
Initial Torque : 15
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 30


OPTIONAL LOW LOCK LSD :
Initial Torque : 15
Acceleration Sensitivity: 25
Braking Sensitivity: 25


AERO
FRONT/REAR : 600 / 740 ( BALANCED ) - Tweak by 20 increment to suit your style if needed.

OPTIONAL REAR AERO : 850 ( MAX ) - Lower Top Speed/Tighter Handling.



Brake Balance:
5/4 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/2, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/4 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

A simple tune I made long ago, a quick build for sports hard to racing hard tire fitment, the aim is to make it drive well on stock camber.
Optional rear damper extension at 7 for more predictable handling, allowing smooth oversteer on mid speed corners, paired with low lock LSD gives easier handling.
Tested at Apricot Hill Reverse on RH, able to lap in 1:15s easily.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Audi R8 LMS - Progress Update

Ride Height: 75 75
Spring Rate: 23.46 19.39
Dampers (Compression): 4 4
Dampers (Extension): 2 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 3
Camber Angle: 2.0 3.0
Toe Angle: -0.32 0.38

An alternative to increasing initial LSD for the R8 LMS, I tested braking instead.

The LSD :
Initial 12
accel 60
Braking 16

Aero
F/R : 400 / 400


This allows the R8 to be much stable off throttle on low speed corners, while still being easy to rotate. The Braking LSD can be set between 14-16-18-20-24, I would not recommend more than 24 ( gives more push off throttle/braking ) I tested at Brands Hatch GP, the 1st and 2nd turn are great for this, as well several next high speed corners, with braking at 16, the R8 easily lap in 1:23s

If the car is twitchy exiting a corner, lower LSD accel by 2 each time until feels comfortable, I would not recommend accel too low ( below 30 for example, may cause unpredictable rear end )

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

PAGANI ZONDA R
Special Build Pagani Zonda R
Comfort Soft to Racing Hard​

​

CAR : Pagani Zonda R '09
Tire : Comfort Soft to Racing Hard

Specs BASE
Horsepower: 737 HP / 747 PS at 7500 RPM
Torque : 524.0 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1179 kg
Ballast : 109 kg
Ballast Position : 18
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55
Performance Points: 623



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Stock or Yellow or any color.


Tuning Parts Installed :
Fully Customizable Suspension
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Adjustable LSD
Racing Brakes Kit



Suspension - OHLINS Pull Rod Springs/Damper

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 95 100
Spring Rate: 16.32 13.25
Dampers (Compression): 4 8
Dampers (Extension): 2 2
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 2
Camber Angle: 1.5 2.0
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.10



STOCK GEARBOX OR
DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Xtrac 6 Speed
Install all power parts if applicable
Set Default
Set Auto Max Speed at 290kmh / 180mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.920
2nd 2.690
3rd 1.940
4th 1.470
5th 1.190
6th 1.000
Set Final : 3.120



LSD - Xtrac 1.5 Way
Initial Torque : 8
Acceleration Sensitivity: 48 / 36
Braking Sensitivity: 24



AERO
FRONT/REAR = 400 / 400

OPTIONAL
FRONT/REAR = 400 / 460 ( Rear +-5, 465 is also great )

Brake Balance:
5/5 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 2/2, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/6 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :


A quick baseline tune made in about 30 minutes, spring rate is custom tuned, finely tuned for balance on low aero level.

Tested at Apricot Hill Reverse and Brands Hatch GP, on Brands Hatch, able to lap in 1:21s using RH tire, on 400/400 aero.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

NICKS FORZA FERRARI DINO 246 GT

Special Build 450PP Dino
Comfort Soft to Sports Hard​

CAR : Ferrari Dino 246 GT '71
Tire : Comfort Soft or Sports Hard

Specs
Horsepower: 279 HP at 7800 RPM
Torque: 219.1 ft-lb at 6300 RPM
Power Limiter at : 99.1%
Weight: 1280 kg
Ballast : 200 kg
Ballast Position : 21
Weight Distribution : 43 / 57 as in real life
Performance Points: 450


GT AUTO
Oil change
Wheels : Standard Size - Stock
Car Paint : Rosso Dino



Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Sports
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Adjustable LSD
Twin/Triple Plate Clutch
Fully Customizable Suspension



Suspension - NICKS FORZA FERRARI Custom Coilover ( Track Pack ) -
Ferrari Owners Alignment - Old/BASE
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 115 115
Spring Rate: 7.73 6.44
Dampers (Compression): 7 4
Dampers (Extension): 6 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 5
Camber Angle: 0.2 1.1
Toe Angle: 0.03 0.24


Suspension - NICKS FORZA FERRARI Custom Coilover ( Track Pack ) -
Ferrari Manual Factory / Service Bulletin Alignment - OPTIONAL
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 115 115
Spring Rate: 7.73 6.44
Dampers (Compression): 7 4
Dampers (Extension): 6 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 5
Camber Angle: 0.0 1.2
Toe Angle: 0.03 0.24

For stiffer spring rate ( track pack ) use : front : 7.73 and rear 6.44 ( recommended for Nordschleife/Ascari/Willow Springs etc ) or front : 9.27 and rear 7.73 ( less bumpy track / High Speed Ring/ SSR5 / SSR7 / Tokyo etc)

For even sharper handling, suitable for tarmac / dirt rally racing : front : 8.19 and rear : 10.65 ( care necessary as the car will be more responsive and wild )



LSD - ZF 2 way high preload - BASE
Initial Torque : 26
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 30



Alternate LSD for looser handling-Highly RECOMMENDED
LSD - ZF 2 way high preload
Initial Torque : 26
Acceleration Sensitivity: 26
Braking Sensitivity: 26



Brake Balance:
5/7 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/7, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/7 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :

Special 450PP version of Nick Forza Dino, this time with closer to real life weight/distribution. The 450PP Dino can use mix compound tire, CS front/SH rear if needed ( recommend to run Ferrari Manual Alignment and Loose LSD )

Tested at Big Willow seasonal Race, able to win on CS tire with some crafty driving

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Ferrari 512BB
Special Build Ferrari 512BB / Easier Handling for Racing
Comfort Hard to Sports Hard/
Mix Compound Comfort Soft Front / Sport Hard Rear​

​

CAR : Ferrari 512BB '76
Tire : Comfort Hard to Sports Hard

Specs - 512BB Official Ferrari Curb Weight 1980
Horsepower: 335 HP at 6000 RPM
Torque : 332.7 ft-lb at 4500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 94.7%
Weight: 1596 kg
Ballast : 196 kg
Ballast Position : 43
Weight Distribution : 41 / 59
Performance Points: 464



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED IN THIS BUILD )
Wheels : Standard
Car Paint : Red / Rosso Corsa


Tuning Parts Installed :
Twin Plate Clutch
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission


Suspension - Eibach Springs over Koni Damper 512BB
Factory Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 159 150 / 149 140
Spring Rate: 5.87 7.59
Dampers (Compression): 5 6
Dampers (Extension): 6 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 3
Camber Angle: 0.0 0.7
Toe Angle: 0.08 0.26


OPTIONAL Street/Track Alignment :
Camber Angle: 1.0 1.2
Toe Angle: 0.08 0.26



DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION -Ferrari 512BB 5 Speed 1980
Set Default
Set Auto Max Speed at 360kmh / 224mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 2.936
2nd 2.098
3rd 1.587
4th 1.200
5th 0.912
Set Final : 3.214



LSD - 2 Way LSD
Initial Torque : 20
Acceleration Sensitivity: 20
Braking Sensitivity: 30

​

Brake Balance:
4/5 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/4, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance. I recommend to run 1 click lower at the rear.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 4/5 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

Special version of Ferrari 512BB replica, this time, the suspension has been finely tuned for racing and time trial in general. The build also excels in mix compound tire, CS front/ SH rear.
Able to win Big Willow Seasonal race with either CS tire or mix compound CS/SH.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

FERRARI 458 Italia Challenge

Tuned to replicate Ferrari 458 Italia Challenge
Comfort Soft to Racing Hard​

CAR : Ferrari 458 Italia '09
Tire : Comfort Soft to Racing Hard

Specs Base Set to Daytona Lap Reference - BASE
Horsepower: 493 HP / 500 PS at 7100 RPM
Torque: 398.5 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 87.5%
Weight: 1292 kg
Ballast : 75 kg
Ballast Position : 41
Weight Distribution : 42 / 58 as real life
Performance Points: 554


Specs Stock GT6 Power
Horsepower: 563 HP at 9000 RPM
Torque: 398.5 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 80.8%
Weight: 1292 kg
Ballast : 75 kg
Ballast Position : 41
Weight Distribution : 42 / 58 as real life
Performance Points: 571



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( INSTALLED - Highly Recommended ) - OPTIONAL
Wheels : Standard Size - Stock or RAYS 57Xtreme in Silver
Car Paint : Red
Custom Rear Wing
Wing Mount Standard Type B
Wing Large Type A
Winglets Large Type A
Wing Size :
Height +10
Width +18



Tuning Parts Installed :
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Window Weight Reduction
Racing Brakes Kit



Suspension - Ferrari 458 Challenge Special Springs Set
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 82 82
Spring Rate: 15.00 18.00
Dampers (Compression): 5 3 or OPTIONAL Rear Compression at 4 for better stability.
Dampers (Extension): 7 6
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 4
Camber Angle: 2.5 1.5
Toe Angle: 0.05 0.30



LSD - E-Diff 2 Way
Initial Torque : 28
Acceleration Sensitivity: 45
Braking Sensitivity: 45


AERO
Front/Rear = 100 ( Fixed ) / 220 ( Max )




Brake Balance:
4/5 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 4/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 4/5 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :

Special replica for 458 Italia Challenge, using Ferrari 458 Challenge real life data gathered. Weight/distribution, springs are available and used in this build.

Suspension has been tuned to make it stable with 58% rear weight, racing hard tire fitment and stiff springs set used by Challenge car. Rear damper compression base is at 3, with optional 4 for better stability, this also allows much easier oversteer control, but may cause slight push on high speed corners.

The reference used is 1:47.1s lap at Daytona Road course ( with slightly different layout used ), the real car tops out at 180mph on main straight, this build with 493HP can go a bit faster due to the lack of drag at high speed ( but acceleration, cornering speed, shift up point and braking point are spot on on racing hard tire )

The real lap for reference, notice the different layout ( last half ), but the time should not be much different.



Can be used on Big Willow seasonal race, easily win on CS tire.

 

[Thorin Cain]

Hello there my friend. Good to see you've been doing a little work on your Ferrari stable I've not had the chance to try out the new Dino and 512BB yet but did take my brave pill this morning and took out the older spec Nicks Forza Dino out to Big Willow for a blast on CS with abs=0, after only just scraping a win on the SH tyre with abs on

Boy that was close

I'll be giving the new one a run out later and see how it compares 👍