RIDOX Replica Garage-In Memory of TurnLeft-GT40,300ZX,F430,TVR,AEM S2000,Cizeta,TransAm Doug Nash

  • Thread starter Ridox2JZGTE
  • 5,032 comments
  • 881,613 views
Ever since I joined the club and started to use Ridox tunes i always use ABS at 0, in seasonals, online and career mode, its like a challenge to myself, and i started to see how weight distribution works, how brake balance also works, and some cars tend to lock the tires more easily than others so it gives them a unique characteristic and feeling, and i use a DS3 only...
 
I converted to no ABS out of frustration, mainly with FF cars. Many times I tried to get rotation on turn-in using the brakes with heavy rear bias. After going all the way to 10 on the rear and not feeling the slightest difference, I gave up beating that dead dog. Try the same thing with ABS 0 and you'll notice the difference instantly. You won't need to go all the way to 10 that's for sure.
 
Ever since I joined the club and started to use Ridox tunes i always use ABS at 0, in seasonals, online and career mode, its like a challenge to myself, and i started to see how weight distribution works, how brake balance also works, and some cars tend to lock the tires more easily than others so it gives them a unique characteristic and feeling, and i use a DS3 only...
It blows my mind how people can use the DS3 to play this game. But then again, I'm not a gamer...so I've never had to develop the dexterity required to control a DS3 or XBox controller. Now, while I'm certainly impressed that you can drive as fast as me with a DS3 controller - at the same time I can't understand why those of you who love Gran Turismo haven't purchased a steering wheel yet! It just makes the game all that much more realistic...
 
I converted to no ABS out of frustration, mainly with FF cars. Many times I tried to get rotation on turn-in using the brakes with heavy rear bias. After going all the way to 10 on the rear and not feeling the slightest difference, I gave up beating that dead dog. Try the same thing with ABS 0 and you'll notice the difference instantly. You won't need to go all the way to 10 that's for sure.

All the way to 10, eh? Well, how about this??
 
It blows my mind how people can use the DS3 to play this game. But then again, I'm not a gamer...so I've never had to develop the dexterity required to control a DS3 or XBox controller. Now, while I'm certainly impressed that you can drive as fast as me with a DS3 controller - at the same time I can't understand why those of you who love Gran Turismo haven't purchased a steering wheel yet! It just makes the game all that much more realistic...
All I've ever used since the original Playstation days and the original Formula 1 game are the controllers that have come with the consoles.
The exception being when I upgraded to the PS2 & GT3. I forked out for the top line Logitech wheel & pedals, whatever it was called. I was deceived by using a friend's example he had hooked up properly so the wheel or pedals didn't move. I didn't have that sort of success no matter what I tried and, together with unpacking/packing it up before & after each session and it's quality & reliability, it became a pain in the rear.
Don't get me wrong, it had it's good points but overall, I won't go down that road again unless I can do it 100% correct in quality and a proper, solid & stable driving position. Besides, the sort of money they want for that sort of thing here in Australia is :eek: :irked:
 
It blows my mind how people can use the DS3 to play this game. But then again, I'm not a gamer...so I've never had to develop the dexterity required to control a DS3 or XBox controller. Now, while I'm certainly impressed that you can drive as fast as me with a DS3 controller - at the same time I can't understand why those of you who love Gran Turismo haven't purchased a steering wheel yet! It just makes the game all that much more realistic...

I goes back to NFSU2 and GT4, and I love cars, every shape and size, in every package, but right now i live in a small apartment and getting a rig to fit the steering wheel and pedals properly, instead of putting it to the table or the couch is not acceptable because the driving position is wrong, so i don't have to much space, and despite I try to play GT6 every day i can't afford a steering wheel and buying those cheap ones is a waste of money because I like to feel the car the road and the surface, so the cheap ones don't offer that, so that's why I have to use a controller, my thumb fingers do all the work but in my mind they are my feet... sure i can't feel the same kind of driving as you but i try my best

Cheers
 
a
ASTON MARTIN V8 VANTAGE V600
Tuned to replicate V600 Limited Edition V8 Vantage - Comfort Soft/Sports Hard




CAR : Aston Martin V8 Vantage V600
Tire : Comfort Soft / Sports Hard


Specs
Horsepower: 600 HP at 6400 RPM
Torque: 601.0 ft-lb at 4900 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.0%
Weight: 1990 kg
Ballast : 35 kg
Ballast Position : 50
Weight Distribution : 62 / 38
Performance Points: 520


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT installed in this build ) - there's no bad side effect of this, highly recommended.
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Steel Silver or Almond Green or Dark Blue Metallic



Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Sports
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Racing Brakes Kit
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Window Weight Reduction



LSD - 1.5 way high preload
Initial Torque : 20
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 7



Suspension - Eibach Springs, Koni Shocks
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 130 130
Spring Rate: 12.50 6.25
Dampers (Compression): 5 8
Dampers (Extension): 4 7
Anti-Roll Bars: 5 2
Camber Angle: 1.2 1.0
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.26



Brake Balance:
2/3 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 2/3, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 3/4 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :
Heavy luxurious touring coupe, the Aston Martin V8 Vantage V600 is not slow, but make no mistake, this car is very hard to push on the limit. Front heavy, and lack of traction makes the car no suitable for the twisty tracks, but drives great on high speed oriented tracks.

Keep in mind the braking distance, brake early and smooth with throttle on exit, the torque easily overwhelm the rear tires.


UPDATE 1.11 : New Suspension, ballast, weight, tuning parts, overall improvement in handling and balance on comfort tires.
I just bought all of the Standard Model Aston Martin's tonight. I was at $50,000,000 so I had to go out and buy about $8,000,000 worth of automobiles. Unfortunately, I pretty much have all the Premium Model cars that I want, or at least I think I do. So, now I'm just in spending mode. Fortunately, there are still a bunch of Premium cars I can buy - 99% are race cars, which I don't drive often... Anyway, I was pleased to see that you had a Replica build for the Aston Martin V8 Vantage. This was one cool car back in its day! It's almost hard to believe that this car is 16 years old...

I started off with Comfort Soft tires and I wouldn't suggest dropping below CS rubber. I drove about 6 laps around Midfield Raceway and she is really temperamental on the Comfort Soft compound. As Ridox warned in his build notes, this car requires a very patient right foot. If you stomp on the gas you're just going to get wheel spin, so don't bother. Fortunately, this car has massive amounts of torque, so if you want to play it safe and short shift a little bit you will still get unbelievable pull from this V8 Vantage.

I cranked the brakes up a couple of notches. This is a heavy car and you're going to have to find the brake pedal a little sooner than you're used to. It's not too hard to get used to, thankfully. If you don't you're going to experience massive understeer. This car is going to understeer regardless, but I'm talking about straight into the wall understeer if you push too hard going into corners.

After running those laps I noticed that Ridox did list Sport Hard as an acceptable tire compound for this Aston Martin. It is incredible how much of a difference an upgrade in tires makes with this car. Yes, it still understeers, but significantly less. If you drive this thing properly and scrub a good amount of speed away right before turn in, dare I say you won't experience any understeer at all! Yes...the SH tires make that much of a difference. I would still recommend the CS tires for the authentic driving experience. You'll have loads of fun with this car. As soon as I finish writing this up, I'm going back out with her for some fun around La Sierra.

I have one question for you @Ridox2JZGTE -- You spec'd this car out to include the Sports Exhaust and Sports Catalytic Convertor along with Stage 1 Engine Tuning. After lowering the Power Limiter to 97% you will have a car with 520PP that produces 600HP @ 6400 RPM (7400 RPM red line) & 601 ft/lbs of torque @ 4900 RPM. If you don't install the Sports Catalytic Converter and leave the Power Limiter at 100% the car will be at 519PP and produce 600HP @ 6300 RPM (7200 RPM red line) & 601 ft/lbs of torque at 4700 RPM.

Is there any particular reason that one setup would be better than the other? You'll gain 200 RPM before red line by following your build sheet, but horsepower and torque will be identical either way. The peak HP and Torque will just be 200 RPM higher by following the build sheet. You do lose 1 PP with the alternate setup, but shouldn't performance be almost identical? I'd love to hear your thoughts...

Great job with this heavy beast of a car! đź‘Ť :bowdown:
 
a

I just bought all of the Standard Model Aston Martin's tonight. I was at $50,000,000 so I had to go out and buy about $8,000,000 worth of automobiles. Unfortunately, I pretty much have all the Premium Model cars that I want, or at least I think I do. So, now I'm just in spending mode. Fortunately, there are still a bunch of Premium cars I can buy - 99% are race cars, which I don't drive often... Anyway, I was pleased to see that you had a Replica build for the Aston Martin V8 Vantage. This was one cool car back in its day! It's almost hard to believe that this car is 16 years old...

I started off with Comfort Soft tires and I wouldn't suggest dropping below CS rubber. I drove about 6 laps around Midfield Raceway and she is really temperamental on the Comfort Soft compound. As Ridox warned in his build notes, this car requires a very patient right foot. If you stomp on the gas you're just going to get wheel spin, so don't bother. Fortunately, this car has massive amounts of torque, so if you want to play it safe and short shift a little bit you will still get unbelievable pull from this V8 Vantage.

I cranked the brakes up a couple of notches. This is a heavy car and you're going to have to find the brake pedal a little sooner than you're used to. It's not too hard to get used to, thankfully. If you don't you're going to experience massive understeer. This car is going to understeer regardless, but I'm talking about straight into the wall understeer if you push too hard going into corners.

After running those laps I noticed that Ridox did list Sport Hard as an acceptable tire compound for this Aston Martin. It is incredible how much of a difference an upgrade in tires makes with this car. Yes, it still understeers, but significantly less. If you drive this thing properly and scrub a good amount of speed away right before turn in, dare I say you won't experience any understeer at all! Yes...the SH tires make that much of a difference. I would still recommend the CS tires for the authentic driving experience. You'll have loads of fun with this car. As soon as I finish writing this up, I'm going back out with her for some fun around La Sierra.

I have one question for you @Ridox2JZGTE -- You spec'd this car out to include the Sports Exhaust and Sports Catalytic Convertor along with Stage 1 Engine Tuning. After lowering the Power Limiter to 97% you will have a car with 520PP that produces 600HP @ 6400 RPM (7400 RPM red line) & 601 ft/lbs of torque @ 4900 RPM. If you don't install the Sports Catalytic Converter and leave the Power Limiter at 100% the car will be at 519PP and produce 600HP @ 6300 RPM (7200 RPM red line) & 601 ft/lbs of torque at 4700 RPM.

Is there any particular reason that one setup would be better than the other? You'll gain 200 RPM before red line by following your build sheet, but horsepower and torque will be identical either way. The peak HP and Torque will just be 200 RPM higher by following the build sheet. You do lose 1 PP with the alternate setup, but shouldn't performance be almost identical? I'd love to hear your thoughts...

Great job with this heavy beast of a car! đź‘Ť :bowdown:

The V600 is not a really complete replica build, hence it's listed under bonus tune. The power upgrades applied was not taking account the real car actual redline :) So I may need to update the car again :)
 
Hi Ridox. I was wondering if you could help @Brewguy44 and myself with some information about the CUSCO LSDs?

I found a PDF which gives some great information about lock percentages and different types of units. Our question really just concerns the 1.5-way LSD and the relationships between the CAM angles when it comes to setting our LSD in-game.

Any help you can give us would be really appreciated:cheers:
 
Hi Ridox. I was wondering if you could help @Brewguy44 and myself with some information about the CUSCO LSDs?

I found a PDF which gives some great information about lock percentages and different types of units. Our question really just concerns the 1.5-way LSD and the relationships between the CAM angles when it comes to setting our LSD in-game.

Any help you can give us would be really appreciated:cheers:

The cam angles affects directly how the LSD response to throttle and potentially affects how much lock % ratio it can provide together with the number of plates and diameter. From my experience, roughly you can use simple calculation, 45 cam angle is middle between 0 to 90 max, so you can use 30 out of 60 in GT6, but I often have to play a bit up or down, depending on how the car react and drive. Porsche for example uses ramp angle ( the opposite of cam used mostly by Japanese brand ), so 30 ramp would be 60 cam, so if a typical Porsche LSD with 30 ramp of coast and 80 ramp on drive, that means the braking/coast has much higher lock ratio than on throttle. This usually used on RR road cars with 4 to 8 plates LSD and very low preload to make it safer yet still offers easy to drive feel ( not too tight ) and usually 30-40% lock ratio. Performance LSD would be set with more plates, higher preload and usually a bit higher drive lock and less on coast/brake, 60% lock or more are usual..
 
The cam angles affects directly how the LSD response to throttle and potentially affects how much lock % ratio it can provide together with the number of plates and diameter. From my experience, roughly you can use simple calculation, 45 cam angle is middle between 0 to 90 max, so you can use 30 out of 60 in GT6, but I often have to play a bit up or down, depending on how the car react and drive. Porsche for example uses ramp angle ( the opposite of cam used mostly by Japanese brand ), so 30 ramp would be 60 cam, so if a typical Porsche LSD with 30 ramp of coast and 80 ramp on drive, that means the braking/coast has much higher lock ratio than on throttle. This usually used on RR road cars with 4 to 8 plates LSD and very low preload to make it safer yet still offers easy to drive feel ( not too tight ) and usually 30-40% lock ratio. Performance LSD would be set with more plates, higher preload and usually a bit higher drive lock and less on coast/brake, 60% lock or more are usual..
I think I understand :)

So using the example of a CUSCO Type-RS 1.5-way with the discs arranged to give 60% lock and CAM angles of 55/20
we would get an Accel of around 22 (36.667% of 60 value) and braking of around 8 (13.333% of 60 value)?
 
I think I understand :)

So using the example of a CUSCO Type-RS 1.5-way with the discs arranged to give 60% lock and CAM angles of 55/20
we would get an Accel of around 22 (36.667% of 60 value) and braking of around 8 (13.333% of 60 value)?

Not exactly right :) accel at 22 is too low, with cam angle, the higher the value the more responsive it will be and more lock possible, the opposite of ramp where higher value actually less response/less lock ( but still possible to increase lock ratio % by adding more plates and bigger diameter/friction surface as well higher preload for overall feel )

If you aim for 60% lock ratio, around 33 to 36 for accel and around 10-13 for braking, if you have experience with how real life LSD lock ratio perform on the limit, you can better fine tune the behavior in GT6 by taking long curve like in Big Willow and Tsukuba last turn to get the feel closer :) Sometimes on certain cars, due to the torque delivery and tire grip used to tune, you may lower or increase the value of accel and brake. In real life, the lock ratio often decided from how much tire grip provided on the car, generally the higher the grip you can use more lock until certain point depending on the use and track surface too ( autoX, tarmac rally, circuit or rally/gravel and drift ), until it's not needed any higher and with high downforce/very high grip car, you can run closer to open diff ( almost no preload, low lock at around 20% both ways or sometimes a bit higher coast for braking stability on low speed ) This is often used on open wheel car, and sometimes on race car like GT3, JGTC, SuperGT and LM ( depend on track and driver style )

For preload, I used simple method of taking percentage of the car engine peak torque, it's not really accurate, but often works.If you have engine with 40kg of torque and LSD uses 12kg-14kg torque preload / breakaway, then you can start with initial preload at 18.
 
Not exactly right :) accel at 22 is too low, with cam angle, the higher the value the more responsive it will be and more lock possible, the opposite of ramp where higher value actually less response/less lock ( but still possible to increase lock ratio % by adding more plates and bigger diameter/friction surface as well higher preload for overall feel )

If you aim for 60% lock ratio, around 33 to 36 for accel and around 10-13 for braking, if you have experience with how real life LSD lock ratio perform on the limit, you can better fine tune the behavior in GT6 by taking long curve like in Big Willow and Tsukuba last turn to get the feel closer :) Sometimes on certain cars, due to the torque delivery and tire grip used to tune, you may lower or increase the value of accel and brake. In real life, the lock ratio often decided from how much tire grip provided on the car, generally the higher the grip you can use more lock until certain point depending on the use and track surface too ( autoX, tarmac rally, circuit or rally/gravel and drift ), until it's not needed any higher and with high downforce/very high grip car, you can run closer to open diff ( almost no preload, low lock at around 20% both ways or sometimes a bit higher coast for braking stability on low speed ) This is often used on open wheel car, and sometimes on race car like GT3, JGTC, SuperGT and LM ( depend on track and driver style )

For preload, I used simple method of taking percentage of the car engine peak torque, it's not really accurate, but often works.If you have engine with 40kg of torque and LSD uses 12kg-14kg torque preload / breakaway, then you can start with initial preload at 18.
I thought that with 60% lock the value used in-game would be 36 :) Based on what you said about the CAM angle, 90 degrees would be 100% effectiveness of the 60 % lock. 55 is a little over 61% of 90 degrees, so I thought this would give 61% effectiveness of the 60 lock which would be 22 (61% of 36 value :confused:)

I had originally set the LSD at 17/36/13 based on the 60% lock and using the method you mentioned for preload đź‘Ť
After your answer about the CAM angle I'd changed it to 17/22/8 as I though you meant that the cam angles would limit the effectiveness. So the original set is more like what you would expect?
 
@Thorin Cain
IMG_20150614_224619.jpg
 
I thought that with 60% lock the value used in-game would be 36 :) Based on what you said about the CAM angle, 90 degrees would be 100% effectiveness of the 60 % lock. 55 is a little over 61% of 90 degrees, so I thought this would give 61% effectiveness of the 60 lock which would be 22 (61% of 36 value :confused:)

I had originally set the LSD at 17/36/13 based on the 60% lock and using the method you mentioned for preload đź‘Ť
After your answer about the CAM angle I'd changed it to 17/22/8 as I though you meant that the cam angles would limit the effectiveness. So the original set is more like what you would expect?

When you calculate or setting the lock ratio, you have to take into consideration of the preload, the 18 initial alone is already about 30% of total resistance/lock, but keep in mind how the LSD spring preload works, it resist wheel speed difference up to the set torque, when the breakaway happens ( torque resistance exceeded ) the diff will act to limit the wheel speed difference. Now the number and diameter of plates + cam angle used will decide how responsive + strength action after breakaway, the diff will send power to the other wheel and try to maintain equal wheel speed.

The problems often that happen is in real life you can set the diff to lock up to 80-100% lock ratio even with 45-60 cam angle, as you can tailor the number of plates and size ( friction surface area ). In GT6, we are limited to 3 attributes which is not enough. We have to use single accel value to achieve similar performance/feel of real LSD on drive/throttle.

Try to use lowest grip tire, CH to fine tune the accel value, you can use partial throttle on the Big Willow 2nd corner ( long right curve ) to see how the car gets tighter or more free when you modulate the gas from 30% to 80% ( this is where initial torque plays bigger role ), when it start to get tighter and outside wheel spins, make a note how early or aggressive the outside wheel getting more traction ( try both 36 and 22 value, then 60 value ) A 60% lock ratio would be quite aggressive on street tire as it can send 60% torque to the other wheel. With 60% LSD, you should also see more consistent 2 black tire marks when doing standing start burnout :P
 
Thanks @OdeFinn. I've got that on the PDF I found. This is for the Pro-Adjust LSD :) This will come in useful indeed.
The angles I was talking about were from the RS-Type, Part number L15 which is listed at the bottom of the PDF as 1.5-way with 55/20 CAM angles.

I thought the relationship between the two angles would determine the difference between the Accel and Braking but wan't sure how to calculate them. I thought if the 55 equated to 100 effectiveness, giving me the required 60% lock on acceleration (36) then the 20 would give me around 36% of that 60% lock during braking (13).
When you calculate or setting the lock ratio, you have to take into consideration of the preload, the 18 initial alone is already about 30% of total resistance/lock, but keep in mind how the LSD spring preload works, it resist wheel speed difference up to the set torque, when the breakaway happens ( torque resistance exceeded ) the diff will act to limit the wheel speed difference. Now the number and diameter of plates + cam angle used will decide how responsive + strength action after breakaway, the diff will send power to the other wheel and try to maintain equal wheel speed.

The problems often that happen is in real life you can set the diff to lock up to 80-100% lock ratio even with 45-60 cam angle, as you can tailor the number of plates and size ( friction surface area ). In GT6, we are limited to 3 attributes which is not enough. We have to use single accel value to achieve similar performance/feel of real LSD on drive/throttle.

Try to use lowest grip tire, CH to fine tune the accel value, you can use partial throttle on the Big Willow 2nd corner ( long right curve ) to see how the car gets tighter or more free when you modulate the gas from 30% to 80% ( this is where initial torque plays bigger role ), when it start to get tighter and outside wheel spins, make a note how early or aggressive the outside wheel getting more traction ( try both 36 and 22 value, then 60 value ) A 60% lock ratio would be quite aggressive on street tire as it can send 60% torque to the other wheel. With 60% LSD, you should also see more consistent 2 black tire marks when doing standing start burnout :P
Thanks. I'm sure I understand now :) I'll try it out on Big Willow next time I play :cheers:
 
@Thorin Cain , you may already have this, but here goes :

Cusco1.JPG


Cusco2.JPG


cusco3.JPG


cusco4.JPG


In GT6, with accel at 60, I deemed it to be giving 100% lock ratio, which means it can send 100% torque to the other wheel, this give very tight feel when on throttle and easily spins outside wheel. I have driven a car with about 40-60% lock ratio LSD, and they are pretty much less tight than GT5/6 at 60 accel. I based this on my experience with R33 GTS-T replica in GT5 vs one that I drive :)

The last picture showed the lock ratio effectiveness can be tailored on all LSD type offered by Cusco.
 
I have driven a car with about 40-60% lock ratio LSD, and they are pretty much less tight than GT5/6 at 60 accel. I based this on my experience with R33 GTS-T replica in GT5 vs one that I drive :)
You have to remember at real-life LSD surrenders under traction(clutches starts to spin), and fails to keep lock ratio, it maintains lock ratio on ice or snow but on tarmac it easily starts slipping clutches. GT6 LSD never surrender, it just keeps lock ratio.

Maybe using some optimal slipping value of 10 to 15% lower values on LSD might justify GT6 locking ratios.
 
Wow...It's amazing how little I understood any of your conversation, TC & Ridox... :dunce: :crazy: :boggled:

Thank god you guys know what you're talking about...Because I get to drive some really cool cars based on all of that gobbledygook! Hey, at least I know fancy words like "gobbledygook". :lol:
 
Wow...It's amazing how little I understood any of your conversation, TC & Ridox... :dunce: :crazy: :boggled:

Thank god you guys know what you're talking about...Because I get to drive some really cool cars based on all of that gobbledygook! Hey, at least I know fancy words like "gobbledygook". :lol:
Ridox knows what he is talking about :) I'm still trying to learn most of it :dopey:
 
Ridox knows what he is talking about :) I'm still trying to learn most of it :dopey:
Trust me, you know 1,000 times more than I do about LSDs. The only LSD that I know came on white blotter paper and had decorative stamps on the 10 x 10 sheets... :sly: Seriously though, I am absolutely awful when trying to tune an LSD on my own in GT6 and I certainly wouldn't have the first freakin' clue on how to replicate a real life LSD into something for the game. You're doing very, very well! đź‘Ť
 
Oh, I forgot to respond to you, @Ridox2JZGTE, regarding the Aston Martin V8 Vantage '99... I didn't know that was a "Bonus Tune" of yours. I was on @XS's fantastic GT6 Tuning Directory just looking for Aston Martin tunes, because I didn't think you had any for the Standard Model cars for some reason. Low and behold, YOU were the only person with a Vantage V8 tune listed, so I clicked it from XS's website. I didn't find it looking through your Garage index on Page 1.

Anyway, obviously this should be low priority, but I wouldn't mind if you re-visited that car (and any of the other Aston Martin's, to be honest) at some point. What you've listed is already a fun car to drive. Challenging, but lots of fun. I have a feeling that the real life Vantage V8 from 1999 was probably exactly like that. If anyone has a few spare minutes, I recommend reading this article from Jalopnik. They talk a little bit about the Aston Martin Virage also, but there is plenty said about the Vantage V8 including a Top Gear video with Jeremy Clarkson. I just discovered that article 15 minutes ago, but it's funny to read all the faults and complaints and see how they mimic a lot of what I said in my short review of the car from yesterday. It's NOT a smooth driving car. :lol:
 



Knight Sports FD3S MAZDA RX7 Spirit R Type A '02 Special Edition

Tuned to replicate Knight Sports 7 Special Edition 402PS
featured in Best Motoring Tuned Car Battle ( N Tire )-Comfort Soft





View attachment 101809


CAR : Mazda RX7 Spirit R Type A '02
Tire : Comfort Soft


Specs
Horsepower: 397 HP / 402 PS at 7200 RPM
Torque: 300.8 ft-lb at 5200 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1103 kg
Ballast : 4 kg
Ballast Position : 50
Weight Distribution : 50 / 50 as stock
Performance Points: 541


GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( INSTALLED in this build ) - there's no bad side effect of this, highly recommended.
Flat Floors Type A
Aero Kits Type A
Wheels : Standard size - ADVAN RGII painted in White
Car Paint : Brilliant Black( stock from dealership )



Tuning Parts Installed :
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter Sports
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch Kit
Weight Reduction Stage 2
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )



LSD ( CUSCO Type MZ 2 way high preload )
Initial Torque : 21
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 36



Suspension - KNIGHT SPORTS ARAGOSTA Coil Over System
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 105 105
Spring Rate: 10.00 12.00
Dampers (Compression): 5 4
Dampers (Extension): 4 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 1.2 1.2
Toe Angle: -0.16 0.16



Brake Balance:
9/7 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 7/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/5 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :
One of my all time favorite RX7, watched the car in action long time ago, the car was considered extreme tuner street car back in the day, with lightened body + race oriented reinforcements, race spec suspension, mild power upgrade yet highly potential with normal tire ( street tires ) -The Knight Sports 7 SE uses normal tire in The Best Motoring Tuned Car Battle at Tsukuba.

This build is using the premium RX7 as the closest Efini is standard ( no flat floor ) and do not have the rear wing. The car is tuned to replicate the Knight Sports Aragosta race suspension system instead, the real car has Knight Sports Pro Spec Race Damper Coil Over with high spring rate not available in GT6. LSD also not specified clearly, so a Cusco Type MZ is used instead which is also a high performer.

The real car is capable of 1:03.010 at Tsukuba during test lap and definitely can get better lap time, my test best lap time ( driving to replicate similar pace + line to the Best Motoring video ) is 1:03.005 using comfort soft and above tune.

To get the best of the car, drive like a pro driver would in real life, smooth steering, trail brake, exit with smooth throttle, only full on when certain you won't lift off anymore.

Enjoy :cheers:
What a sensational car!! I drove it around Suzuka and then the Green Hell. Had a complete blast!! I was blown away by how much grip this car has on CS compound tires. Obviously, the Flat Floor is pulling this baby to the pavement. I have to leave for a doctor appointment in a few minutes, but I'll be leaving my PS3 running (like I always do) and the Knights Sports RX-7 Special Edition waiting for me to tear up Tsukuba when I return. :D

I definitely could have pushed a little harder around Nordschleife, but I was very happy with the time for my first run with the car. Usually I like to go one compound up around Nurburgring, but CS was totally fine here...
 
@Pete05
I'll be honored if you'll join the Club. I know you don't have the possibility to race but it doesn't matter, just be part of it. You're already in the family. :)

:cheers:
I didn't know Pete wasn't a member of the club... It's a real shame that you can't take part in the races, @Pete05. There have been some really good battles in past events!! I know you would enjoy it. Sure beats racing against the horrible AI.
Well I must've missed the application in the mail then :P :D
Seriously though, I'd be honored to join you guys :bowdown: :) đź‘Ť
I just didn't know you were offering the spectator package :lol:
 
Back