Sim-Plicity Compact Series Direct Drive Wheels Thread

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All Fanatec steering wheels are compatible with the DD1 including those with a simplified(plastic)QR, but the DD1 and DD2 are too powerful for these steering wheels with the simplified(plastic)QR and the power will be limited.

Here is the Porsche wheel in action:


Which are the wheels with the plastic quick release?
 
All Fanatec steering wheels are compatible with the DD1 including those with a simplified(plastic)QR, but the DD1 and DD2 are too powerful for these steering wheels with the simplified(plastic)QR and the power will be limited.
You wouldn't happen to know how limited the power will be? I mean, most people run their DD wheels at reduced torque anyway, so maybe the "limited power" is above what the average user would use anyway?
So let's say I run the DD1 wheel at 9-10 nm. If the power is limited to 10 nm when using the P1 wheels, then it wouldn't matter and I could get away much cheaper.
 
You wouldn't happen to know how limited the power will be? I mean, most people run their DD wheels at reduced torque anyway, so maybe the "limited power" is above what the average user would use anyway?
So let's say I run the DD1 wheel at 9-10 nm. If the power is limited to 10 nm when using the P1 wheels, then it wouldn't matter and I could get away much cheaper.
Sorry, no.
Only @Fanatec... or @DomB_Fanatec can answer this question.
 
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You wouldn't happen to know how limited the power will be? I mean, most people run their DD wheels at reduced torque anyway, so maybe the "limited power" is above what the average user would use anyway?
So let's say I run the DD1 wheel at 9-10 nm. If the power is limited to 10 nm when using the P1 wheels, then it wouldn't matter and I could get away much cheaper.
In generalyou can dial your DD wheel lower to use cheaper rims like the P1. The problem is that IMO you will feel and hear the plastic. Ofcourse if you have the P1 and dont have extra money for other rim - I will do that if I am you. After some time you can upgrade the rim.

For the other question that you asked me for the oscilations of SW7C. Because the motor is very small and dont have inertia it is very live and with inertia to 0 in the sttings it moves in the center. But it is up to title, settings etc... The recommended from Ollie settings are with inertia on 5 if I remember correct. I am on 0 or 2 sometimes. You can play with settings and achieve needed setup. I preffer to have the option to lower the inertia to 0 instead of Ollie to add hidden inertia on 3 to make the wheel more calm;)
 
As far as I remember there will be a kind of 'knob lever' attached to the Fanatec QR which makes a mechanical connection with the wheel shaft. Then the 'intelligence' knows it deals with a metal QR and the nM will be maximized. If this lever is not present it is less sturdy and thus lower the torque of the wheel base automtically.

Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
As far as I remember there will be a kind of 'knob lever' attached to the Fanatec QR which makes a mechanical connection with the wheel shaft. Then the 'intelligence' knows it deals with a metal QR and the nM will be maximized. If this lever is not present it is less sturdy and thus lower the torque of the wheel base automtically.

Correct me if I'm wrong.
Never heard of that, but it is interesting solution from Fanatec!:) I own the smallest ever DD wheel 7Nm and even I can say that plastic connection to the shaft is not a good option...:)
 
You wouldn't happen to know how limited the power will be? I mean, most people run their DD wheels at reduced torque anyway, so maybe the "limited power" is above what the average user would use anyway?
So let's say I run the DD1 wheel at 9-10 nm. If the power is limited to 10 nm when using the P1 wheels, then it wouldn't matter and I could get away much cheaper.
My understanding is that the limited torque is similar to the maximum output of the ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5, but this is subject to final testing. Note that even at this lower torque, the Podium bases still deliver higher performance than the V2.5 due to the characteristics of direct drive.
 
Torque, torque, torque, torque, torque, torque, torque, torque, torque and more torque .........

I don't get it why most people are always discussing torque and torque figures, while that is not so important. The most important thing is how a wheel performs in every aspect and yet nobody talks about that. :odd:
 
Torque, torque, torque, torque, torque, torque, torque, torque, torque and more torque .........

I don't get it why most people are always discussing torque and torque figures, while that is not so important. The most important thing is how a wheel performs in every aspect and yet nobody talks about that. :odd:

Note that even at this lower torque, the Podium bases still deliver higher performance than the V2.5 due to the characteristics of direct drive.
This means that even at the same level of torque Podium base will have more details in the FFB than the best belt drive CSW V2.5 wheelbase, this information is enough for me.

Let's say there are two absolutely identical Direct Drive wheels and the only difference is that one has 2-newton meters of torque and the other 10. The wheel with 10 Nm torque will literally blow away the 2Nm version in terms of details in the FFB, therefore torque is important.
 
This means that even at the same level of torque Podium base will have more details in the FFB than the best belt drive CSW V2.5 wheelbase, this information is enough for me.

Let's say there are two absolutely identical Direct Drive wheels and the only difference is that one has 2-newton meters of torque and the other 10. The wheel with 10 Nm torque will literally blow away the 2Nm version in terms of details in the FFB, therefore torque is important.
I wasn't commenting on @DomB_Fanatec post. It was a general comment. Even youtube is full of clips about torque, torque, torque and nothing but torque.

The only thing people talk about is torque, which is less important than other characteristics.
 
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Does anyone know if the Creative minds hub will work with Simplicity Stuff so I can use on PS4 and Xbox One? it does with Fanatec stuff.
 
Thank You Krassi. Id love to be able to use PS4 Xbox one, Id like PS3 too but think Im asking too much, but I still love GT5/6
 
I wasn't commenting on @DomB_Fanatec post. It was a general comment. Even youtube is full of clips about torque, torque, torque and nothing but torque.

The only thing people talk about is torque, which is less important than other characteristics.

The videos I have seen do actually go into depth about increased fidelity that DD provides. I agree that Torque isnt everything, but generally I think the more potential torque a wheel can deliver, the less it can overheat or have any type of wear.

And ofcourse it is in part a marketing ploy like Mhz and pixelcount. My worry is that the whole Idea of DD is being overrated. A belt driven wheel (or even gear) is more then enough for the majority of simracers. Even worse the software is often drowned out, which in my opinion is more important.
 
The videos I have seen do actually go into depth about increased fidelity that DD provides. I agree that Torque isnt everything, but generally I think the more potential torque a wheel can deliver, the less it can overheat or have any type of wear.
These are serious reviewers and there are only a few of them.
I'm not saying that torque isn't necessary but it is not as important as other wheel characteristics. Everybody turns down the torque to an acceptable level, so why is everybody (you as well as I am not included) so keen on the torque figures?
The overheating thing goes both ways. If a motor isn't powerful enough and the torque is set to the maximum, it will get very hot indeed (you are correct about that). But a very high torque motor turned up to the maximum setting will get very hot as well.

And ofcourse it is in part a marketing ploy like Mhz and pixelcount. My worry is that the whole Idea of DD is being overrated. A belt driven wheel (or even gear) is more then enough for the majority of simracers. Even worse the software is often drowned out, which in my opinion is more important.
Well, I'm starting to believe you when you say that a very good belt/gear driven wheel is good enough for the majority of simgamers.
Yesterday, I was playing Wreckfest and Assetto Corsa with my trusted old G27 and must admit that I was thinking while playing that this wheel is actually a good wheel.
I'm one of the few that don't believe in FFB. I always turn down FFB as much as possible. There has to be some resistance but not all those fake FFB forces. FFB ruins my gameplay every time. It is such an annoying feeling for me personally that I always turn it down as much as possible.
Also agreed with your view on the software part of DD wheels.


But and there is a but no belt or gear driven wheel can compete with the realistic feel of a DD wheel. It was very apparent when I was able to test the Accuforce V1.
 
I'm one of the few that don't believe in FFB. I always turn down FFB as much as possible. There has to be some resistance but not all those fake FFB forces. FFB ruins my gameplay every time. It is such an annoying feeling for me personally that I always turn it down as much as possible.

But and there is a but no belt or gear driven wheel can compete with the realistic feel of a DD wheel. It was very apparent when I was able to test the Accuforce V1.
I found it a bit hard to understand how you really feel here.

Did you mean that the only benefit (for you) of a DD wheel would be the increased smoothness and torque, and not the ffb (which you say ruins your gameplay)?
Or was the "annoying ffb" thing just aimed at gear/belt driven wheels and not DD?
 
I found it a bit hard to understand how you really feel here.

Did you mean that the only benefit (for you) of a DD wheel would be the increased smoothness and torque, and not the ffb (which you say ruins your gameplay)?
Or was the "annoying ffb" thing just aimed at gear/belt driven wheels and not DD?
I like your questions!

It is a general statement. Not only "aimed at" belt and gear driven steering wheels but also Dd wheels. Don't get me wrong, there has to be some FFB. A steering wheel without FFB feels like it is broken and is not realistic. The Sim Commander software is a gem. It is so versatile and so adjustable that even I, who doesn't like all those fake FFB feelings, could set up a DD wheel to my preferences/liking.

With fake FFB I mean FFB that is not felt through a steering wheel in a real car. I know that the majority of sim racers (casual and hardcore) do not agree with me when I say fake FFB and that these FFB forces are there to translate what the car is doing through the steering wheel. But I'm one of those casual sim racers that really hate those FFB forces.

When I was testing the Accuforce v1, the owner adjusted all the Sim Commander settings to what I know to be real FFB forces coming through a real car's steering wheel. You know what, he was very pleased and faster than when using fake FFB settings. The cars felt more realistic he said. It is possible that he changed the FFB back to his original settings. :D

Why am I interested in a DD wheel?

  1. Direct (= 1:1 and less latency)
  2. Smooth
  3. Fast
  4. Realistic and a real car feeling
  5. When the software is as good as Sim Commander software the adjustability of "real FFB forces".
  6. Other typical DD wheel characteristics
  7. Not so loud as my G27 (although with the lower FFB settings, it is actually not that loud) :P

Why not a DD wheel?

  • Well it is so expensive and do I really need such a wheel only to enjoy myself and have fun from time to time. Don't forget, I'm only a casual sim racer.
 
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I hope this can help in the torque argument. More torque doesn't give you a better DD per se, it is a combination with the encoder also. And usually the higher torque DD is provided with a better encoder.

After say this, higher torque DD will (almost, but it is hard to) never overheating, won't clipping when there are peaking force (let's say when you hit hard a curb for example), plus the motor is not as active as the lower torque DD, so as Krassi says that he has to play with inertia to lower oscillation, with a large Mige OSW (and I would presume the same as the Fanatec DD2) you have to little to none need to artificially add or sub damping, inertia, ecc. Because of this I prefer the bigger motor, but that is personal preference. Someone may prefer a more active DD, and goes with lower torque. In my opinion this subtract some FFB details that a higher DD has.

This is a confrontation between DD and their torque difference, I think we already clarify that every or almost every kind of DDs have better fidelity, ecc in regards to belt wheelbase.
 
Is this an OSW Servo motor? I mean does anyone know what servo motor and software Coolperformanc use?

Naamloos.jpg
 
Short update:
- new firmware/software release - added new features and profiles in the wheel control panel app
- tested all night long and decided just to check FM7 - now works fine. Cant say from this wheel update or from its own Forza update but works!:)
- latest Rfactor 2 update added new features for DD Wheels and now the SW7C have proper degrees of rotation per car. If you remember I mentioned before that need to go to wheel`s app to set degrees , because ingame always stay on 900 even for open wheelers and was unplayable.
So far, so good!:)
 
Hey all. I am an owner of the sw12C living in the UK. I've had it for a couple of months after previously racing with a G27. I went through a lot of the same thought processes I've read here, so I'm happy to answer any questions as I found information hard to come across when making my decision about purchasing.

Overall, I'm really happy with the product.

The thing that swayed it for me was the price. I got the sw12C plus a rim with buttons (Polsimer formula wheel) for £900. For someone in the UK, this comes in a lot cheaper than the Accuforce which is very expensive to ship, and the Podium which, when including a rim, would be hundreds of pound more. It was at least £400 cheaper than any other option I was happy with. It was a decent compromise.

I would say that the 1-to-1 setup meeting thing wouldn't be ideal for some. Ollie is great and the chat with him was very useful (bordering on essential) to get the most out of the wheel, but not being able to use the product immediately and then having to mess around to get it tuned to different sims is part of the deal. I could see this totally being a deal breaker for many, but I felt that at the cost it was worth the faff.

The motor feels very powerful. Having the torque and in-game settings at 100% is way too much. The FFB feels detailed and I'm spending more time driving simply because it's more enjoyable to do so. I can't compare it to a CSW as I've never used one, but obviously compared to the G27 it's night and day.

Another drawback is that though I'd love to play F1 2018, I don't think it's supported... yet.

So overall I love it, but if plug and play is a must for you, then avoid.
 
Hey all. I am an owner of the sw12C living in the UK. I've had it for a couple of months after previously racing with a G27. I went through a lot of the same thought processes I've read here, so I'm happy to answer any questions as I found information hard to come across when making my decision about purchasing.

Overall, I'm really happy with the product.

The thing that swayed it for me was the price. I got the sw12C plus a rim with buttons (Polsimer formula wheel) for £900. For someone in the UK, this comes in a lot cheaper than the Accuforce which is very expensive to ship, and the Podium which, when including a rim, would be hundreds of pound more. It was at least £400 cheaper than any other option I was happy with. It was a decent compromise.

I would say that the 1-to-1 setup meeting thing wouldn't be ideal for some. Ollie is great and the chat with him was very useful (bordering on essential) to get the most out of the wheel, but not being able to use the product immediately and then having to mess around to get it tuned to different sims is part of the deal. I could see this totally being a deal breaker for many, but I felt that at the cost it was worth the faff.

The motor feels very powerful. Having the torque and in-game settings at 100% is way too much. The FFB feels detailed and I'm spending more time driving simply because it's more enjoyable to do so. I can't compare it to a CSW as I've never used one, but obviously compared to the G27 it's night and day.

Another drawback is that though I'd love to play F1 2018, I don't think it's supported... yet.

So overall I love it, but if plug and play is a must for you, then avoid.

Really great honest opinion! I think it will help a lot of people to make an informed choice. I have a few question about the 12nm version.

1. do you think it is the minimum one you should buy? Or would the 7 and 10 perhaps be sufficient?
2. Does the 12nm version get hot with normal settings and gameplay?
 
Forgot to mention that now when you buy one of the Compact wheels you receive email with info how to setup the 1 hour session, but also including links for the drivers and frimware and if you want you can do it by yourself. This is a new one. My friend bought SW7C and I know this from him. I saw the email. So, that means Ollie gave an option now - the 1 hour session is by your wish!:)
 
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