Simple (and cheap) fix for Logitech Wheel Optical Encoder Issue

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by Sick Lenny, Jan 29, 2014.

  1. alainsenna

    alainsenna

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    150
    Location:
    Scotland
    No worries my friend, good luck with it, just take your time and defo watch a video on you tube first, happy racing,,
     
    Mortadela likes this.
  2. Mortadela

    Mortadela

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    2
    Hi, I disassembled but the optical encoder was not broken. I just needed to tight harder the screws of the optical sensor and the calibrations was correct again :) thank you!!!!!!
     
  3. alainsenna

    alainsenna

    Messages:
    150
    Location:
    Scotland
    Your welcome, ah nice one, well done, and at least now if the encoder does go, which it will at some point lol, you will feel more confident at having a go, hapy racing, add me on psn if you like, i only play gt6, and in between moving home at the moment so i am not on much for the next 4 weeks.
     
  4. ivan saeba

    ivan saeba

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    1
    i'had the same problem...i tried with glue attack but fail
    today shop are close so i try with a bungee cord and it's works:):)
    sure is not an definitive solution but my problem was that g25 brokes just when my friend give oculus vr to try:p
     
  5. Metlearm

    Metlearm

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    2
    When I took my G27 apart I discovered my optical encoder had one crack going along the whole of the encoder. I got some super glue and found a wire terminal that was a hair too small. I filed it down, sheared off the access and it fit like a charm. Super glued it on there and put it all back together and she is working great again. I am probably still going to buy the brass encoder when she breaks again but for now she is working like new. The whole process took around 3 1/2 hours. Thanks a lot!

    Here are a couple pictures that I took
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Gtownboy

    Gtownboy

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    38
    Location:
    Canada
    Nice looking work bench, you should of tried putting a washer on it, that's what I did with my g25 and haven't had any issues since even with hours of drifting and getting it warm lol
     
    Sick Lenny likes this.
  7. Metlearm

    Metlearm

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    2
    The wire terminal, when cut properly, was practically a thin washer so I think it worked just as well.
     
    Sick Lenny likes this.
  8. hanhoo

    hanhoo

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    1
    I created an account especially to give Kudo's to the author. Fixed my G25 today in the same manner. I found a thin washer, filed it snug and secured it with a tiny amount of glue. The optical encoder sits really snug again against the axle. I used a 5 mm socket to push down the washer onto encoder. I found myself also needing to use the same socket to get it on the axle. I felt that using my fingers would bend the broken plastic.
     
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  9. Sick Lenny

    Sick Lenny

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    192
    Location:
    United States
    Thank you, glad to hear it helped you! Merry Christmas!
     
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  10. Joolz99

    Joolz99

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    4
    6 years later hope that you or someone can clarify a couple of things: you said the washer should go in snug, in order not to have to use glue. Well I found two washers, one of which appears to be the exact size needed but it doesn't sit snug around the shaft. There's maybe a hair worth of space in between but it isn't snug. Will this be a better way to go along with some super glue than with the other, slightly smaller washer? I'd need to drill the centre hole in order to make it fit the shaft. Even then there's no guarantee I'd have the exact drill size so it likely wouldn't sit snug either. But based on the pic below am I safe to go with the larger washer? (2nd from the bottom). Suppose that I'd use superglue and squeeze the wheel together in order have it closed fully.

    Seems like the obvious next step but before I proceed I'd like to hear opinions, as once I glue it in place there's no going back.

    PS: may use Gorilla glue (for wood, plastic, etc) as I find it far safer than super glue. cracked_wheel_Logitech.jpg

    Thanks everyone, for contributing to this great thread.
     
    MarcoM likes this.
  11. Sick Lenny

    Sick Lenny

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    192
    Location:
    United States
    Glad this thread could be of help to you!

    I had a whole response typed out saying that the larger washer should be fine and why but then I remembered why it was necessary from my obervations. Just gluing by itself wouldn't work because the shaft the wheel goes on is so snug it actually puts pressure on the plastic that sits around it, and in my case, made it want to split apart again after being glued. The washer was key to counter this.
    Having said that, if you glue the back side of the washer to the solid face of the wheel it will sit against, it may hold. I would recommend a super strong glue for that, I don't thing GG is that strong (it may be for the application, but like you said it's kinda a one shot situation).
    The encoder wheel on my DFGT fit the washer perfectly, so I want to say they are some sort of standard dimension, which is why I recommended taking it to a hardware store and go through all the washer bins to find the right one. Is yours not from a DFGT unit (I suppose the size of this part could change with revisionsof the unit as well)?
     
  12. Joolz99

    Joolz99

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    4
    Got it working!
    Sick Lenny, your input in this thread was instrumental. Thanks for checking back in after all these years.
    Let me share my experience (and some pics) that I hope will also help others. It wasn't straight forward for me, so I hope that anyone reading this can be better prepared and hopefully get your unit running quickly.

    Here's what I found: in order for the wheel to work the gap must be closed fully. Even the smallest of gaps where it's cracked will mess with the sensor. I had tried several techniques using the larger washer in the pic above and tuck tape (not duck tape) instead of glue and nothing worked. I doubt that I could have gotten this to work if I had used glue. The risk is far too great getting it on the spokes and this would ruin the wheel. Not enough glue and the crack may not close fully or hold. Or it may break up in the future. As Lenny said there's some added pressure once you mount things back in place.

    So this is what I did: used the smaller washer from the pic above and widened the hole in the centre. But just enough to make it barely slide down the shaft. The larger washer's centre hole was a hair wider than the shaft and it didn't work to close the gap. Think of the washer as a clamp. You really need something to clamp down on the shaft and this will fully close the gap. No glue needed.

    Keep in mind that the drilling wasn't that simple. Washer is so small that I had a tough time using pliers to hold it in place. Had to drill very gently and widen the gap a few microns at a time. Too much and it wouldn't close the gap fully, forcing me to start over with a new washer. As seen in the pic the washer took a beating. I used a sharpening stone to smooth out the rough edges a bit. It isn't pretty but it worked. The gap was fully closed once I forced the washer down the shaft, pressing down with my fingers. Should I have to replace the washer in the future it should come out fairly easily seeing how no glue was used.

    Perhaps you may get lucky and find just the right washer for the task. Or as mentioned, bring the wheel to a hardware store. Or use a drill to make your own hole.

    Tested the wheel on two computers close to a dozen times. It calibrates just fine (it will turn the wheel fully to one side then the other, then centre it in the middle position). Man, am I happy. As are my kids. $20 best spent!

    PS: this is the 5th wheel in the house and I just picked up another for $15 that I hope to get working too (may start a thread on that). I only tried this Logitech wheel briefly and it works nicely, love that it has a gear shifter on the side. Definitely worth fixing. Thanks to all that helped out in this thread.

    cracked_wheel_Logitech-fixed.jpg
     
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  13. Sick Lenny

    Sick Lenny

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    192
    Location:
    United States
    No problem! I don't visit this place much anymore but it still get notifications and this thread is usually the one I get alerted on every once in a while.
    Glad this was helpful and you solved your issue. Nice work!
     
  14. chubbychomins

    chubbychomins

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    1
    Great thread guys. Thank you very much for this post OP, I made an account just to share my experience:

    • I have a g27 with a 60 hole encoder wheel, hopefully this all applies to you too.
    • For me, the right size hole washer was an M5 washer (0.5mm hole in middle). this size was the tightest i could get - I believe the stem in the middle is about 4.4~7mm so it is a little loose.
    • HOWEVER, you must find one that has a small 'diameter' if that makes sense - the first set of M5's i bought were too wide and covered the encoder holes and I had to visit the hardware store again, encoder in hand.
    • You must use high quality super glue that will bond to both metal and plastic. Hold the encoder together tightly during application, so that the cracks are pressed together.
    • And finally, don't get too crazy fiddling with the encoder. As you can see, the plastic is quite fragile. I made the mistake of using cheaper superglue on my first go which left a sticky white film behind. While removing it with pliers and cutters, I split the existing crack further and made more cracks.
    Other than that, great trick! I'm probably still going to order the brass wheel though. Good luck everyone :tup::tup::gtpflag:
     
    VBR likes this.