Slash's F150 Street Truck: V8 Swap Incoming

[Slash]

Do you know how much it is?


The factory EFI or just in general?

9.5:1 IIRC. Prior to that it was 8:1.


In general.

 

[Sage Ages]

9.5:1 IIRC. Prior to that it was 8:1.

Am I correct to assume a giant chunk of iron like that wouldn't like boost too much?

In general.

Why so?

 

[Rotary Junkie]

9.5:1 IIRC. Prior to that it was 8:1.

Okay, okay, 91 octane at 8psi.

Edit: Actually seems to be 8.8:1. As long as the turbo's sized to spool somewhere north of idle and you can boost retard the timing, it's all good. As for ditching EFI, uhh. You'll be a lot happier if you don't. Carbs are great the day you tune them, the next they suck. Add boost and, well, have fun good luck.

 

[AnthonyD1993]

Carb could at least be a blow-through setup with the turbo which will be cheaper and easier to set up, but it would run better with EFI and be far easier to tune and more reliable as well.

 

[Slash]

Am I correct to assume a giant chunk of iron like that wouldn't like boost too much?


Why so?

Factory EFI is extremely restrictive an theres pretty much nothing you can do with it.

Okay, okay, 91 octane at 8psi.

Edit: Actually seems to be 8.8:1. As long as the turbo's sized to spool somewhere north of idle and you can boost retard the timing, it's all good. As for ditching EFI, uhh. You'll be a lot happier if you don't. Carbs are great the day you tune them, the next they suck. Add boost and, well, have fun good luck.

I knew it went up but I couldn't remember exactly how much.

Ditching the EFI would really be the only way this could work extremely well. While it will work with the EFI it already has, you can't really tune it. Hell, just increasing the throttle body size to flow more air will effectively FUBAR the computer. As Anthony was saying, ablow through setup would be easier. Keeping EFI and going aftermarket would be extremely expensive and not really worth it.personally I've never had an issue with carbs.

It's a difficult decision.








Meanwhile, I just ordered 4 2" spacers

 

[Sage Ages]

Factory EFI is extremely restrictive an theres pretty much nothing you can do with it.

So, basically it would easier and cost less to get rid of it altogether, correct?

 

[Rotary Junkie]

Rising-rate FPR, wideband O2, bigger injectors, aaand go. TB may well be a restriction, but you may be surprised how late in the powerband it becomes one. Hell, you could run it on a Microsquirt for a lot less than it'd cost for a carb built to handle boost (and a carb intake, and a different fuel pump, and all the other fun and excitement involved) and it'd still be considerably easier to tune.

 

[Slash]

So, basically it would easier and cost less to get rid of it altogether, correct?

That's mline of thinking.

Rising-rate FPR, wideband O2, bigger injectors, aaand go. TB may well be a restriction, but you may be surprised how late in the powerband it becomes one. Hell, you could run it on a Microsquirt for a lot less than it'd cost for a carb built to handle boost (and a carb intake, and a different fuel pump, and all the other fun and excitement involved) and it'd still be considerably easier to tune.

I'm just speaking in general. The factory computer does not like mods at all. That's why most people try to convert to a MAF system as its a bit better as far as what you can do.

Its going to take some research.

 

[michrulejj]

Just go standalone and swap a 302. If you are talking about mods I assume you would want to swap engines anyway, and going standalone makes tuning 100x easier. But then again that's not the cheapest route and can be expensive.

 

[Sage Ages]

But then again that's not the cheapest route and can be expensive.

Which is why he didn't even consider standalones. Of course, this is all just one idea being thrown out there that would be very expensive and probably wouldn't happen anyway.

 

[Slash]

Just go standalone and swap a 302. If you are talking about mods I assume you would want to swap engines anyway, and going standalone makes tuning 100x easier. But then again that's not the cheapest route and can be expensive.

If I swap, I sure won't put a 302 in it. There's no benefit in power and gas mileage would drop abit. Not only that but the block is really limited. A 351 bolts in and is miles better.

Which is why he didn't even consider standalones. Of course, this is all just one idea being thrown out there that would be very expensive and probably wouldn't happen anyway.

Exactly.

 

[Slash]

Apologies for the double post. Here's my thoughts so far. On the trip home from work I really thought about all the things I'd like to do to this truck externally. Here's my list so far.

2" Wheel Spacers (Ordered)
Seat cover (just bought)
LED taillight bulbs (ordered) While I really like the stock bulbs, for some reason I feel a strange need to have these.
Reinstall Tailgate (this week)
15x10 rims with 4" backspacing (deep dish)
Temporary 235x75 tire
295x70 tires for the 15x10s
3.73 traction lock rear headset
Patch frame in 2 places
Install new rear front shackle
Install new radius arm bushings on drivers side (have them)
Install Gabriel shocks all the way around
Buy traction bars
Buy front passger fender
Have fender painted
Buy new headlight bezels
New grille
Buy clean junkyard front bumper
Buy aftermarket rear bumper
Order old school style front push bar (I can't believe they still make these!)
Install 6" KC daylights with red/black covers
Reinstall my old fog lights from my van
Find roof visor with lights (have a lead on this for $80)
Look for Lund racerback/cab spoiler /or/ roll bars
Remove rear lift blocks/install new u bolts
Considering a rear shackle flip to lower rear of truck a total of 6 inches. Unsure still
Install halo style headlights
Install DeeZee running boards
Install old school vertical bug guard




I'm such a sucker for this look. I'm going for this but a lower body.

I also ordered chrome interior door handles for an 80-86 truck from Jegs but they are on backorder :/

 

[Slash]

Finally found an ordinal Deflecta bug shield!!! Took forever even to find a smoked one...no one makes the old scool vertical style anymore. LMC truck used to, but apparently they stopped this year. I want a red one too...dad has an extra but that's to replace the broke one. Damn.

Also apparently a piece on my gate is missing, so I had to replace that as well before it goes back on. Gotta find that.


I'm also putting the visor on hold temporarily. I may also be picking up a 30" 14,000 lumen LED light bar.

 

[Slash]

Well, I didn't end up getting that bug guard. The seller dropped free shipping last second and that put me over budget for the buy it now thing; I couldn't justify paying $20 to ship a piece of chrome plated aluminum with some tinted acrylic

Meanwhile, my door handles and spacers finally shipped, along with some LED tail light bulbs that I ordered. Not expecting much from them though...I bought extremely cheap ones so if they don't work well or last long, I'm not really out anything and can put the normal ones back in.

Next step is starting to save for rims and tires, since that will be the next major investment for spring, as far as upgrades go after repair work. I've noticed the cab is starting to sag, which would explain the rough shutting doors. As well as the frame needing two patches, a shackle and a new trans crossmember (which is the easiest since it literally unbolts an can be replaced easily). I've also still got to find that last piece for the gate, since I'm about sick of not having on

I would like to at least get shocks on soon as well, but its too damn cold! Next paycheck I'll probably buy them though. I thinkim going to binge buy parts and then put them on all at once.

As far as rims and tires go, I am undecided on style. Im torn between drag stars, wagon wheels, centerlines etc. Tires will likely be 295/65s.

I still need to install my new dash bulbs too Tonight I finally ordered a new headlight bezel to match the original and new 194NA amber bulbs to replace my white, worn out corner bulbs as well. Tomorrow I'm going to town and grabbing a can of bedliner and going to match both mirrors as ones a standard plan XL mirror while the other is a chrome XLT power mirror. The XL junkyard mirror has some weird Bald eagle sticker on it that I hate....so I'm go into my gare and grabbing a can of gasket remover and get that off. Once the door handles come in I will take the mirrors off then because theres an extra bolt in the door that has to come out to get them off. I'll spray em both then.


Once all that craps done, I'll focus on the body. She's definitely going to need some help :sad:

 

[Slash]

Go my new handles on...80-86 handles vs 87-97 ones. The plastic ones are known to snap...these new ones feel much sturdier and more connected tyo the door latch now. It not so much of a fumble and hope it opens feeling now...its much stiffer and direct.

Also, I temporarily painted some dash and door time, until I decide what direction I want to go. Also got the tailgate back on, though I need one more piece and I broke a strap latch finally got rid of the eagle sticker and matcd the chrome mirror to it with Bedliner, but also have to do the passenger side so it looks OK. But its better than before. I also got my dash bulbs installed so I can finally see how fast I am going at night

Ordered a clear dome light lens tonight too. Tomorrow or next week I am hoping to buy 3 of 5 LED black light bulbs for the interior. That will leave two standard dome bulbs for normal light as well.

 

[mustangGT90210]

Ok so here's were I'm at. I've started clean ing up my enginebay. Degreasing and small parts removal. As much as I can get away with before I tear into the motor for paint. Ive been looking at wheels and tires, I'm thinking 15x8s up front a 15x12s with 4" backspacing. 1" spacers all around. New shocks will be coming soon, same ones I put on the van. I'm also going to fix the gate hinges and Gert that back on. I've mostly bedlined everything under it and painted my leafs red. I'm going to replace the entire front end eventually...new grille and bezels, rad support etc. Fenders will come in time. Also want rain guards for the windows...the old chrome ones. I've also painted some of my interior but more on that later.

15x10 with a -44 offset and a 285/295 tire will sit absolutely dead flush with the rear fenders. 15x8 + 1" spacer seems like it'd be perfect up front.

Lowering these trucks is stupid cheap too. The axle flip costs $52, good for 5" drop, and the drop coils for the front are about $120. Do it!

 

[Sage Ages]

Any reason why one wouldn't put the same size wheels all around aside from clearance?

 

[mustangGT90210]

Apologies for the double post. Here's my thoughts so far. On the trip home from work I really thought about all the things I'd like to do to this truck externally. Here's my list so far.

2" Wheel Spacers (Ordered)
15x10 rims with 4" backspacing (deep dish)
Temporary 235x75 tire
295x70 tires for the 15x10s
3.73 traction lock rear headset
Install new radius arm bushings on drivers side (have them)
Find roof visor with lights (have a lead on this for $80)
Considering a rear shackle flip to lower rear of truck a total of 6 inches. Unsure still
Install halo style headlights


I'm such a sucker for this look. I'm going for this but a lower body.

That's going to look sick, but it's not going to turn being that wide. These Fords have much smaller wheel openings than all the trucks you linked to. In my opinion, of course. And I hope I'm wrong, because I love that same look, but can't afford to be the guinnea pig for it

I actually have a blue moon visor, with lights, sitting around right now. I'm unsure whether I'm going to install it, or do cab lights again. I'm leaning towards cab lights. If for some reason your lead doesn't work, I'd consider selling mine to you once I figure out if I'll use it or not!

Radius arm bushings - replace the I-beam pivot bushings too. Energy suspension makes a poly pivot bushing, and holy hell do they make the front end feel great. Plus it's much easier to physically drop the I-beams out of the truck to do radius arm bushings than it is to cut the rivets on the bracket, bolt the bracket back in, and get it to line up. Any questions about front suspension stuff, feel free to ask. I redid the whole thing on my truck

 

[Slash]

15x10 with a -44 offset and a 285/295 tire will sit absolutely dead flush with the rear fenders. 15x8 + 1" spacer seems like it'd be perfect up front.

Lowering these trucks is stupid cheap too. The axle flip costs $52, good for 5" drop, and the drop coils for the front are about $120. Do it!

Well I ordered 2" spacers for all the way around, so hopefully it'll kick it out some. Even if it doesn't sit half a foot out, even a few inches would be enough for me.

I don't wanna slam it, but I do kinda want to drop the back quite a bit and then level the front so it sits even. I am likely going to put in those F250 coils you told me about when I first bought the truck as well.

Any reason why one wouldn't put the same size wheels all around aside from clearance?

I'm likely going to run them all around, as the same, but smaller in the front makes it have a staggered look.

That's going to look sick, but it's not going to turn being that wide. These Fords have much smaller wheel openings than all the trucks you linked to. In my opinion, of course. And I hope I'm wrong, because I love that same look, but can't afford to be the guinnea pig for it

I actually have a blue moon visor, with lights, sitting around right now. I'm unsure whether I'm going to install it, or do cab lights again. I'm leaning towards cab lights. If for some reason your lead doesn't work, I'd consider selling mine to you once I figure out if I'll use it or not!

Radius arm bushings - replace the I-beam pivot bushings too. Energy suspension makes a poly pivot bushing, and holy hell do they make the front end feel great. Plus it's much easier to physically drop the I-beams out of the truck to do radius arm bushings than it is to cut the rivets on the bracket, bolt the bracket back in, and get it to line up. Any questions about front suspension stuff, feel free to ask. I redid the whole thing on my truck

That's cause they are all 4x4s. That's mostly why I bought the big spacers; so when turning it will clear the inside at the radius arm. I shouldn't have too much an issue with clearance running a spacer that big, but there's running 12.50s or bigger with less offset and spacing. Worst comes to worst, I can always "downsize" to get it to clear.

I can't decide either. Cab lights are a lot of measuring and drilling

I already did the passenger side radius arm bushings, and replaced the shackle when I had it off and the arm itself. Never did the other side due to time restraints (I'm not working in the dark haha), but in the spring I plan on doing the other side. It wasn't to bad to line the shackle back up, just a couple long pry bars and a floor jack and we had it in. I used poly bushings as well, but I don't think they were Energy.

I am interested in rebuilding the suspension ground up, but really I need to fix the frame before I even think about it. I talked to the guy today. He said he wants to look at it on his lift when there's some time. See what we are working with.

I'll definitely ask in the future though!

 

[Slash]

Finally got my parts in! Likely going to keep it all in storage until there's a nice day and is warm or till spring. My billet spacers came packaged very nicely too! Payday is this Thursday. I'm going pay back some of what I owe my dad and buy a new tire as well as pull an old one off the spare and have it mounted temporarily. So then I will have 3 good ones out of 4

I'm also going to buy a new strap for the gate. This weeks paycheck is looking nice too!

The speakers still are going to take some time to do. I have a lot to do regarding my spared 6x9s a the amp/sub. That won't be done for a long time I think.

The new LED bulbs actually don't appear to be too bad for cheap ones I'm the package. Both have a 1 year warranty and are about half a watt brighter than stock bulbs. I'm going to pickup resistors for $8 at Walmart on Thursday and then I'll have everything I need to install them.

My amber 194 bulbs are in my glove box. When I mess with the bezel below I'll put them both in. In the green box is the new dome light lens as well. It has the clear diamond pattern of older pickups and is a lot clearer than the soft white one to allow for more light.

 

[Slash]

Well I got some of it together. Got the spacers on! Wow what a difference. Much beefier stance. In the process of putting on the new bezel I cut part of my thumb off haha. 6 stiches later I'm almost as good as new. One more tire to buy, then I'm picking up my shocks and springs. Can't wait! The truck will finally ride like it should and sit level.

Before

After

 

[Slash]

I've tossed the idea of rear LEDs. It's simply too difficult with the type of transmission I have. I'm only out $8 so it's ok. There's other 3157 bulbs on it I can run them on so that's always good.

I've put a search out for an old pushbar and roll bars. I've got a few places in mind to maybe stop and ask. One place also has a bug shield. I have a few people searching for me also. I'm going to start saving for a bumper soon after I buy one more tire this week. Then I will have a new front bumper as my stock one is trash. I am thinking about buying a different style stock one to run a light bar in in the center. We shall see what the price difference is. Eventually I will get to the fender. I've got a guy holding brand new F150 XLT badges that I'm knAbbing for $25 shipped. Great price since new ones are that much or more individually.

It's a matter of buying slowly like dads doing and then slapping it all together. I really can't wait until it warms up. Ya know when I first bought this truck it wasnt all I wanted. But I think it's going to stick around for a while.

I've got my eye on a couple motors. There's one for sake on Craigslist for $300 running with a fuel harness and computer...351W specifically. Pricing out such a swap should realistically run me about $800 using factory ignition. Minus needing a radiator mostly everything else I would need, I have. Of course this is down the road after my other issues get wired out. The swap will be an instant 160+ horsepower and 200lb-ft gain alone before mods. If I actually go through with the swap I will be building it on a stand as a 393. End goal is 450 horse on pump gas and that is very easy to achieve.

This weeks purchases will be a new tailgate strap and a tire. Nothing special. I may grab two shocks and corner light bulbs since I accident bought 194s last time I'll see how much money I have after.

I am really happy with my spacers. Though ideally I'd like a much wider look, for now they will do. I have not had any issues under daily driving, hard acceleration, high speeds and sliding from snow then grabbing traction hard. I am absolutely very satisfied with the purchase and would recommend the brand to anyone looking to buy billet spacers.

I've noticed the cab has started to sag. I think the bushings are flattening from age. My doors shut very hard due to that. So I will probably order bushings eventually as well. I'm going to need a core support also. The bottom of it and its mounts are shot. No big deal, that's an in and out swap and can be done in a day.

I really like the direction this is heading. So much work needing to be done but that's how all projects are. I can't wait to get this finished. It'll be some time but in the end I think I'll be pleased.


This is a few week old pic before spacers right after a quick wash.

 

[mustangGT90210]

The spacers really make that thing look a lot beefier!

 

[Slash]

Definitely! When I wash it again ill get some better shots. It looks a lot better but depends on the angle. I'm slowly working into it but most if my tires are GoodyearWangler Radials. Really wish I could get them in 33s!

 

[Slash]

Snow belt!! She's dirty but here's a better angle on how far they kicked out.

 

[Sage Ages]

Don't you need to put on longer studs when using spacers?

 

[mustangGT90210]

Don't you need to put on longer studs when using spacers?

These are spacers that bolt on to the factory wheel studs, and there are studs on the spacer that the wheel bolts to.

My dude, you aren't gonna get 33s under that thing as it sits, of course!

 

[Slash]

These are spacers that bolt on to the factory wheel studs, and there are studs on the spacer that the wheel bolts to.

My dude, you aren't gonna get 33s under that thing as it sits, of course!

Spot on.


I know! Not for me though lmao. I'm a big fan of these tires. Not too many left like that anymore.

 

[Slash]

Been meaning to post this for a while. What a difference fresh bulbs make.

Before (shortly after I bought it)

Now

Pricing out new shocks and coils is gonna cost me around $300. Haven't looked at adjustable camber bushings yet either can't wait though. One coil is shorter so it sits lopsided.



Also dirty booty

 

[Dennisch]

You should keep the 300 in and build a V8 outside the truck. So that you can stay reliable and keep pouring money into a monster~ish V8.