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Discussion in 'Gran Turismo Sport' started by AussieMitch, Mar 30, 2019.
I did not know that, Thanks for the info.
I'm not sure quite what you mean but if you mean the settings on the computer like in the picture below, none of these settings apply to games on the PS 4, they only work on games you play on the PC. But you should always keep your Firmware and Drivers up to date, which can only be done on the PC.
Hope this helps
Best bet would be contacting a Thrustmaster engineer to get the best input to maximize lifespan of the wheel.
Might be something in the manual as well.
Those things are good to read...
This was suggested by me for a brand new T300, and see what happened after almost a year.
Damage to the fan is quite common for the T300(search in YouTube or Google if you do not believe me), but still better faulty fan than motor failure.
Does adjusting that clutch axis effect the clutch in gt sport at all? So it doesn't only work fully pressed or close to fully pressed in? Also where did you go to download that control panel?
Sorry, disregard that question. I missed the "doesn't apply to PS4 games part" lol.
Sorry, I missed your question about the control panel .
It's from the Thrustmaster website on the PC: http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US from there you go to ther technical support page (via support) where you select your wheel: https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/cat-wheels-en/ Once you select your wheel, T300rs GT in this case, it brings you to this: https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t300rsgtedition-en/ This is where you update your wheel Drivers and Firmware, it also installs the Control Panel onto your PC. All instructions for updating your wheel should be strictly followed.
Also, I was thinking about your clutch issue and what you could do to modify the pedal/base to have a shorter throw of the clutch in GT Sport. If you lodge something in behind, or in front, of the pedal before loading any game it should work because the pedals are only calibrated once you depress them in game. It should work much like how the brake mod operates. I would recommend you take great care not to pinch any wiring inside and make sure whatever you used wouldn't work loose. Alternately, and probably easier now I think about it, you could try getting hold of another brake mod from Thrustmaster, or someone not using theirs, and adapt it to work on the clutch pedal.
Disclaimer: I would try and test this theory first before going to any great lengths.
If you decide to give this a try I would be very interested in your progress .
Someone mentioned this before but I can't find the thread so sticking it here. This looks like it's quite an important setting and am surprised not in the manual (well, I can't find it in the manual). Deactivating "keep application suspended" seems to be required..... https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/kb/3158-en/
How is the wheel. I may get it as well and trash my g920. I’m also trading in my Xbox one x probably end of the month or beginning of the June. And will get PS4 ps now. And get this game Assetto Corsa, pc2, pre order f1 2019. All setting me up for the future ps5
I've had the T300RS since Christmas but the only other wheel I can compare it to is the Thrustmaster Ferrari Wireless GT Cockpit. I'm really happy with the wheel, but I have seen comments about sub-par reliability, and generally people seem to rate the Fanatec wheel higher.
@seadog777 just be sure to run the FEB torque at a reasonable level to avoid excessive wear and tear on the wheel. I've had two Thrustmaster wheels and never had a problem. In GT Sport I run the torque setting at 3. Enjoy and good luck.
Thanks Clean Racer! I'm running at torque 4, which I've heard is fine..... going above 5 might cause accelerated wear (apparently). At 4 it's just perfect for me.
High settings result in a much more direct FFB, while lower settings just seem to smooth it out.
The difference between sensitivity 1 and 10 is MASSIVE.
Very low settings feel like arcade mode to me, more like soft springs pulling on the wheel.
The difference between 8, 9 and 10 is pretty marginal, but if you try race cars on a straight and apply small steering corrections, you notice the force being larger and more direct at 10.
So my setting is Torque 4, Sensitivity 10
Sometimes I go for Torque 5, but I have noticed degradation (a drop in strength) while driving Super Formula cars.
This will obviously make you pretty inconsistent..
Seems to be the motor running hot, because driving with the case opened has helped the problem.
I have also replaced the fan with a better/quieter one...
I run my FFB at 5 on important races that I'm really serious about. All other online races I keep it at 4 and all my offline racing Its kept at 3.
I've also found I enjoy my sensitivity at 5 but keep in mind I'm on the T-GT and not the T300RS so that might play a small factor in my Settings.
I just dropped torque to 3 from 4 after getting weird, loud squeaky noise from wheel on occasion. So far worked.... but early days.
If this is true. This is exactly what I needed to hear. Thanks for that champ.
In all seriousness though. I think santa should bring me one of those delicious Fanatec Direct Drive PS4 Podium Jobbies. (And a set if inverted V3’s while he’s at it
It is ... steering angle is set in game for GT Sport, and you can easily notice if you drive the Samba Bus then jump into the go-cart or F1, but it can be changed in game using this method; https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/kb/3132-en/ Unfortunately it doesn't work correctly in GT Sport so you have to re-adjust it for every race, and every time you even restart a race
Yeah, you and me both .
Hey, can you guys help? My ffb randomly goes light at some points of the track? I press pause, and go back in, and it comes back... Till I hit the same location and it drops again?!
Causing me so much agro and may switch permanently over to PC2
I see you got a lot of different answers..
I suggest that you set sensitivity to 1, as anything else is actually artificial noise and resistance around the center of the wheel that you wouldn't feel on a real car, or a sim like rfactor or iracing.
max Torque is up to your taste, but I wouldn't use a high setting on a thrustmaster if you want it to last. If you use 1 or 2 though, the wheel will go dead when the ffb should be stronger. For example try going through suzuka esses aggressively with GT500 cars and you're bound to notice it. So 3 seems to be the minimum when you need to be competitive.
For a couple months now, I've felt this same feeling at Suzuka only. It always starts around the same part of the track and clears up about 30 seconds later. I think it was Suzuka Gr.3 (or maybe it was Gr.4, can't remember) was a daily race and people in the Daily Race thread were saying "Suzuka feels like ice." I didn't know what they were talking about until I ran some hot laps later that week. It didn't happen right away, but after several laps the FFB started to get really weak right after Dunlop Curve, headed into Degner 1. It stayed weak until after exiting the hairpin and approaching Spoon 1. Once it started doing this, it would keep doing it until I exited and reloaded the track. Then I only had a few laps before it happened again. I thought it may have been an issue with the wheel, but the fact that many other people were experiencing it made me think otherwise. I never found a solution to it, but I did race at Suzuka yesterday in FIA, and I didn't feel the same issue. The feeling was exactly as if I had turned down FFB to nearly minimum, then turned it back up later in the same lap.
ive had the same issue (different circuits, different days) with the wheel feeling light for a while. I wasnt running with the fan "On" all the time... Since turning the fan to always on... i dont think its happened since