T500RS & Iracing

  • Thread starter Maxitsu
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Maxitsu

Maxitsu

1,752
Maxitsu
I have some issues whit this wheel in this game.

1) To let it work correctly i have to do the setup wizard every time i start i racing. But is it normal the measurements of i racing always change. The steerings lock to lock range is usually 900degrees. But sometimes its diffrent like now its on 867. Its like the I racing wizard fails to calculate the wheel or whatever. The degrees on the setup are also diffrent each time. is this normal?

2) Last night i had a issue on my foot pedals, they didn't fully worked. In qualy i did go off after every fast straight, I noticed my pedals stopped working at 75%. So i used the setup again. After that my FFB was gone. I quit the game 3 times and tried the setup like 10 times again and i got my FFB back. Right in time for the race but once i was on the grid the FFB was gone again. So i had to quit the race. I stopped playing out of frustration. Now everything seems to work. But if someone also had this problem before i like to know why, to prevent this problem in the future.
 
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Did you check if the wheel have the latest firmware, and try uninstall the drivers and re install it.

I also have the problem every time i unplug the wheel witch I sometimes have to do to actually calibrate it. Thrustmaster sent me a new PCB so I could change it and hope it start to act normal after I do it.

Very good service, but I kinda had to go through every newbie thing to do. Witch is easily found on google. I guess they have to many people not bothering to try something them self's. But after I got through the standard things to do, they actually proved to be very on target with helping me.
To bad you have to be lucky to get a wheel that doesn't act like it's in it's prime defy age ;)
 
uhm, I am driving whit a new wheel, it has the last firmware. So it should be alright.

Whats a PCB, Do you mean a "printed circuit board"?
 
It should be alright, but I guess it isn't as you come here to ask ;)

Try uninstall the drivers for it and re-install them, after all you probably use the same drivers as you used with the old wheel. It's the same wheel, but I had to specify what version I had and even the serial number when getting a new PCB (yes Printed Circuit Board) so I guess it might help to re do the process. And it doesn't really take that long ;)
 
Re-installed drivers and cetera. As soon i start Iracing and do the setup wizard for my wheel and go on track there is no FFB, it took me 5 times to get FFB. Why that happens i do not know. But i found out why my wheel and paddles don't feel the same each time i play. But thats becaus the setup-wizard does not measure the wheel right. Thats why my Mazda was undrivable a while ago.

Basically what happens. I press on the button to start the wheel-setup-wizard. There is a pop-up that tells me to turn the wheel from right to left(or vice-versa). But the rest of the window is blank. As soon i touch/turn the wheel there appears a red bar whit a dot. The dot measures where my wheel is pointing to, but it always start measuring on the wrong place. After turning my wheel 2 or more times from left to right it jumps to the right spot eventually. When it didn't measure it right i will have problems in the next steps. Like the centre thats a bit off or the limit of lock to lock steering is wrong. It have to be 900degrees. It happens the limit is only 850 or 876 or any random number.

Whit the foot paddles happens the same thing. If the game ask me to push the throttle and brake gently there is no graph. As soon if i press the paddle and the bar appears in the window the dot jumps immediatly to the maximum while i barely touch the pedal. This means i also have to push more than once until it measurement looks right, but it is not always right. So i have to do the setup over and over until it works.
 
Happened to me to, helped restarting the pc for me. And it was even after a restart of the pc.. But it's a ****** wheel you bought yourself, but call support and you get nice service at least ;)
 
No I'm not sure, I have no idea what you really did with driver install or anything.. I just know that the problems seem to be endless with 50% of all T500RS owners and wouldnt recommend anyone to buy it. When it works it's probably one of the better wheels on the marked, but is it worth all the worries?

I just wish I was one of those happy guys with a T500RS that actually works like its supposed to.

But doing remote service for you through a forum is impossible mate.
 
I always have been happy about my t500 wheel, thats why i bought a second one. But then again i barely used it for PC. I never came across such problems whit this wheel. :scared:

From my point of view its Iracings Setup-wizard thing that *****.
 
Well you can think what you want of the iRacing setup wizard, but it only collect data from your computer or from windows itself. If the data from windows is all messed up it will be messed up in iRacing as well. iRacing works for a lot of people, but not you.. the iRacing setup wizard is messed up.. yeah right!

You can of course believe what you want, but trying to blame iRacing to be xxx'ed when its obviously doesn't get the right data is wrong. How you like the setup is one thing, but how it works is obviously outside your understanding.
 
Maxitsu
After turning my wheel 2 or more times from left to right it jumps to the right spot eventually. When it didn't measure it right i will have problems in the next steps. Like the centre thats a bit off or the limit of lock to lock steering is wrong. It have to be 900degrees. It happens the limit is only 850 or 876 or any random number.

Whit the foot paddles happens the same thing. If the game ask me to push the throttle and brake gently there is no graph. As soon if i press the paddle and the bar appears in the window the dot jumps immediatly to the maximum while i barely touch the pedal. This means i also have to push more than once until it measurement looks right, but it is not always right. So i have to do the setup over and over until it works.
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I use a G27 but what your saying sounds like normally how the in-game setup thing works. When you step on the gas or the brake after having unplugged the wheel the brake or gas bar will spike to the top as soon as you touch it. Ignore that. Just push the pedals all the way down to to full travel length.

For the steering ignore the dot as you only care about what it is doing after you have turned the wheel full left and right. Don't stop during the calibration proccess thinking that its done because the bars moved. And when you are centering the wheel you must maunally center the wheel. when it says "turn left and right then return to center" For the return to center part. Put the wheel at what you see as center anytime it tells you to return to center.

Try tha for calibrating. I don't think i can help with the FFB issues however. Maybe they will just go away after driver reinstall.
 
The thing about pushing the pedals to the floor to tell the sim the travel length is a Logitech thing I think. Never had to do that in GT5 with the T500RS and when I have on and off pedals in iRacing I can't fix it that way. I have to go into settings to re-calibrate it from there.

I saw somewhere that setting the wheel in a powered USB hub might help as it will have power even if the computer is turned off. At least some T500RS seem to resets itself when they are without power.

When I first started iRacing my wheel was perfect, but then after a week or so my wheel felt lose and the force feedback was there but was very much GT5 like (almost none and if any it felt fake) so I did the BOOTLOADER method on it and it have been perfect since. Except for my usual never ending calibration on windows restart. Lucky my pc is super stable and not in a place the noise keeps me awake ;) It's on 24/7 so I take the pain to restart when I'm sure I don't need the wheel in 20 minutes ;)

Looking forward to change the PCB, but I need a new soldering tool as I cant trust the temperature on the one I have :scared:

You can find a lot of help here: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=1&fid=2&pid=316&cid=6
 
That doesn't work Blaze. When i just ignore what the screen says my wheel & pedals feels fake like Erik, sometimes its just undrivable. At each part of the wizard i do twice or more until the screen knows what the hell is going on. I am starting to get handy at doing it. Its not ideal but i can work around it. The only thing i do whitout the screen is centre it.


I yet again re-installed all drivers/update. Just to make sure i did connect my wheel at the right time, don't use other programs while installing and restart my computer afterward. It didn't change anything but it seems My FFB comes back if i connect the wheel before i sign-in. Don't know if this was just lucky i have to test it. This makes me wonder if it also works on my wheel-setup. Maybe the time "when" you plug in your wheel does matter. Well time will give the answer.
 
Another thing Maxitsu, you bought a new computer didn't you. DO NOT put your USB from the wheel in a USB 3 plug. It will fit, but not work optimal.
 
Intresting, I didn't know. How do you know whats a 3.0.

I have 2 Blue ones at the top, 4 black connection at the front and i think 4 black ones at the back....:scared:
 
It sounds like I am one of the lucky ones using a T500 in iRacing , I haven't had any issues with it but there is one little quirk whenever I first jump on track. The brake pedal is very sensitive until I fully depress it for the first time. Its like it needs that one full stroke to calibrate , once that is done , it is perfect.
This is fine once you are aware of it , otherwise it ends in a big brake lock up at turn one on the first lap !
 
I am going insane! Today i wanted to do a quick race. I registered myself but i had to forfeit, didn't enter the the track. Becaus my FFB was yet again was gone whit the wind. Now i have again -60 on my irating, becaus it apparently counts for a race. even if you don't go on track. I need 1houre and 30minutes+ to get my FFB back.


Anyway it seems my FFB happens to dissapear if i have disconnected my pc from the electrical mains or if i have disconnected my wheel from my PC. Which USB-port doesn't really matter. I am a bit confused. :ill:
 
spinner
It sounds like I am one of the lucky ones using a T500 in iRacing , I haven't had any issues with it but there is one little quirk whenever I first jump on track. The brake pedal is very sensitive until I fully depress it for the first time. Its like it needs that one full stroke to calibrate , once that is done , it is perfect.
This is fine once you are aware of it , otherwise it ends in a big brake lock up at turn one on the first lap !
Click to expand...

I bought my T500 very early, one of the version 1's and it works like a charm. I bought and sold my Fanatec CSW Elite. IMO the T500 is the best wheel on the market. I am following Fanatec's new wheel and if they get all the bugs out and with the GT rim it may very well turn out to be outstanding.

On a side note Sam Maxwell over at iRacing has developed an adapter for his T500 that fits a GT wheel, I believe it is a BMW but can't be sure. He will be selling those adapters soon, so this is another option for the T500.

Maxitsu
I am going insane! Today i wanted to do a quick race. I registered myself but i had to forfeit, didn't enter the the track. Becaus my FFB was yet again was gone whit the wind. Now i have again -60 on my irating, becaus it apparently counts for a race. even if you don't go on track. I need 1houre and 30minutes+ to get my FFB back.


Anyway it seems my FFB happens to dissapear if i have disconnected my pc from the electrical mains or if i have disconnected my wheel from my PC. Which USB-port doesn't really matter. I am a bit confused. :ill:
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I have not read your whole thread but the problem you are having with your FFB could possibly be attributed to Thrusmasters latest driver, I remember reading at iRacing several months ago someone contacted TM about their last driver and they said there was a bug in it and they were working on it.

When I start iRacing I always open the service, then I open the Thrusmaster calibration screen and move the "overall Strength of all forces" just a couple of notches. It is recommended that this be set to 60. I set mine at 30 then in iRacing adjust to taste, however with the bug I will go in and move it to about 28, the next time I go into iRacing I will change it back to 30. I keep repeating this step and it bypasses the bug in the driver.
 
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spinner
It sounds like I am one of the lucky ones using a T500 in iRacing , I haven't had any issues with it but there is one little quirk whenever I first jump on track. The brake pedal is very sensitive until I fully depress it for the first time. Its like it needs that one full stroke to calibrate , once that is done , it is perfect.
This is fine once you are aware of it , otherwise it ends in a big brake lock up at turn one on the first lap !
Click to expand...

Yes, I've had the same problem with my pedals and brake lock from time to time, but for the most part I am very happy with my T500. So happy I did not purchase the new FANATAC BMW rim. Looks great but has a lot of bugs to work out for such and expensive piece of equipment.
 
I am still happy whit wheel.

Last weeks i have no problem whit my wheel at all. Now i know how it have to work on Iracing.
I just keep it connected and calibrate the pedals each time i start iracing. if i disconnect the wheel i also do the setup wizard fo the wheel again. it still has those problems i mentioned before. But i work around the problem.
 
After doing alot of races whit the same setup/car/track i am 100% sure about the diffrence in the handling of my car and steering wheel that sometimes occur from day to day, even though i always re-install my wheel when i start iracing.

Somtimes i had the feeling my car is a bit more slippery or less stable then the day before. I often thought it would be becaus of "the break" i had, and just need to do some in-laps. But now i am sure thats not case.

whenever i open the setupwizard and i have to center the wheel, the center has to match the number "RAW: 32700(or something)" If the center doesn't be on ...700, like ...800,...750, ...637, ...702 or what ever number that apears on screen the car will not be driving perfectly.

So when in the middle matches RAW:32700, then turn my wheel to 900degrees, and come back perfectly on ...700. Now i am able to shave off some tenths of my fastest lap. Simply becaus i can push more one the limit becaus my car feels more stable. What's even better than a good lap times is i can be alot more consistent. becaus i have less moment when the car loses grip.

The problem is the RAW number changes every time.
2 times out of 10 it matches the raw 32700 oncentre, Yipi 👍
6 times out of 10 there is a diffrence bewteen 32600 and 32800 :nervous:
2 times out of 10 the diffrence is insane like the center is on 31800 or 33000 :grumpy:👎
 
Most of this thread was written before the new drivers. I don't think there are any existing T500 owners that haven't updated the new driver, which fixed all of the previous errors.
 

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