Tactile Info & Buyers Guide / Comparisons / Opinions - Work In Progress

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mr Latte
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Are y
Strainer79
Hello again, I'm feeling pretty stupid, but I can't get this to work.
I can get windows notification etc sounds to play on the tactiles, but nothing else, no game or movie sounds..
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Are you trying to get SimVibe to work or just activate two sound cards within Windows?

To get SimVibe to work you have to have the "default" Windows sound card driving your normal audio output. This is available for selection in "sounds" within Control Panel in Windows.

You have to have your secondary card "enabled" in Windows and designated as the "output" for SimVibe inside SimCommander. There is a specific drop down box in SimCommander which shows you all the enabled sound cards on your PC. You need to select the one you are connecting to your tactile shakers.
 
Just an FYI for everyone. You can use simvibe with one soundcard as long as you can use Optical output for one.
 
RReed43
Are y


Are you trying to get SimVibe to work or just activate two sound cards within Windows?

To get SimVibe to work you have to have the "default" Windows sound card driving your normal audio output. This is available for selection in "sounds" within Control Panel in Windows.

You have to have your secondary card "enabled" in Windows and designated as the "output" for SimVibe inside SimCommander. There is a specific drop down box in SimCommander which shows you all the enabled sound cards on your PC. You need to select the one you are connecting to your tactile shakers.
Click to expand...

I'm just trying to activate the mobo's sound card to get stereo output to receiver witch has tactiles hooked up to that.
Don't have simvibe (yet :))
 
I think the issue you are having is that while you have the sound card enabled and working which is why you can play the Windows tone through them, you don't have a program to drive that sound card independently.

The assumption made in Windows is that the "default" program will get the audio feed from a running program like a sim racing program. You only have a single audio feed from your racing program.

This paradigm is broken with SimVibe which "wraps around" a sim racing program to analyze the simulation data, extract, modify and feed low frequency tactile information to a separate sound card from the "default" audio channel. The normal audio proceeds uninterrupted including low frequency information which can drive a subwoofer.

If you don't want to buy SimVibe then you will need to use the output from the "default" sound card. You need to take the subwoofer feed and use it to drive the tactile shakers directly or run it through a cross over splitter to take the really low frequency info to the tactile and use the higher frequency to drive your subwoofer.
 
Strainer79 does your AV reciever have any EQ features usually found within menus?
What make/model or are you planning to add more tactile in future?
 
Naked Tactile

9owWSLp.jpg

Aura Pro
Notice the unit sealed in the centre, are ADX, Reckhorn similar?

NaSsn71.jpg

Clark TST 209 (Exclusive Parts Express)
Large magnet that powers the unit with a unique central contact point.
 
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Mr Latte
Strainer79 does your AV reciever have any EQ features usually found within menus?
What make/model or are you planning to add more tactile in future?
Click to expand...

Now I'm just trying things out with a old sony pro-logic receiver that has very poor eq features and some very cheap tactiles (about 10$/tactile) that I purchased years ago.
 
Mr Latte
Handy for a set application but because frequency can not be adjusted not so good for your requirements.

Simvibe is not so much the issue with its low frequency outputs.
The setup guide refers to how some effects it is possible to scale the data into a tone (frequency).
Using their example of engine revs selecting a (start Hz) and rev limit (end Hz).
(Basically High Pass / Low Pass Filtering)

I do not know how accurate it is regards this or if anyone has tested the settings to actual Hz output being monitored externally. That's not to say it isn't spot on neither...


However Music/TV/Console Games all these would be much better with a controllable crossover as the frequencies they produce will vary greatly. Basically you may want more than 70Hz but less than 100Hz with music or other material.

If buying well for me I'd choose 70Hz for the ADX
Click to expand...

Thanks once again for your input. After your advise on FMOD fixed frequency range, did more research and bought this little inexpensive device instead, more or less the same price as a FMOD.

Have RCA in & output, gain control and crossover control from 150Hz-40Hz.




This will be used for general purpose like console/movie/tv basically any non-simvibe audio source. Thought I share this in case anyone share similar setup requirements where their amp doesn't have a crossover/low-pass feature/subwoofer output. It's a poor man's alternative lol.


Hope that the crossover signal output is clean and work as described. Will be next week when I receive this and the ADX transducer.

Update: Amazon sells it for less than USD$15 and comes in various names
 
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Soulfresh_ACV
I'd just bought a inexpensive aftermarket sports seat for my rig (still waiting for my ADX Maximus), bottom seat doesn't have much metal to mount on so I think I might have to get some thing custom made so that I can mount the ADX transducer. Any tips on the best material to use (metal or wood), surface size to feel the most impact, should the transducer face upwards or downwards towards the ground and best way to mount at the bottom of the seat. (Still Googling for measurements for seat bracket mounting points...)

Appreciate to have such basic tips even on simple things like mounting transducers to get the best results.
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Easiest, cheapest, workable solution is likely using wood. 28mm MDF from a hardware store is quite affordable option. Not sure what you have or are building regards the main cockpit frame?

Firstly have fun...
Experiment a little by adding a wooden base section under both the seat and go for the pedals too. Have it that you can easily remove the ADX for switching over between seat/pedals.

Perhaps consider cutting a square wooden section attached/bolted to the metal frame of the seats underside but instead of attaching the ADX directly underneath for now consider having a central square section just big enough extending out at the back to then attach the ADX for easier access.

A first build doesn't have to be final also you will need to consider isolators if on a wooden type floor than concrete. Isolators basically help to maintain the tactile where you want it...
 
Soulfresh_ACV
Thanks once again for your input. After your advise on FMOD fixed frequency range, did more research and bought this little inexpensive device instead, more or less the same price as a FMOD.

Have RCA in & output, gain control and crossover control from 150Hz-40Hz.




This will be used for general purpose like console/movie/tv basically any non-simvibe audio source. Thought I share this in case anyone share similar setup requirements where their amp doesn't have a crossover/low-pass feature/subwoofer output. It's a poor man's alternative lol.


Hope that the crossover signal output is clean and work as described. Will be next week when I receive this and the ADX transducer.

Update: Amazon sells it for less than USD$15 and comes in various names
Click to expand...

Mr Latte
Easiest, cheapest, workable solution is likely using wood. 28mm MDF from a hardware store is quite affordable option. Not sure what you have or are building regards the main cockpit frame?

Firstly have fun...
Experiment a little by adding a wooden base section under both the seat and go for the pedals too. Have it that you can easily remove the ADX for switching over between seat/pedals.

Perhaps consider cutting a square wooden section attached/bolted to the metal frame of the seats underside but instead of attaching the ADX directly underneath for now consider having a central square section just big enough extending out at the back to then attach the ADX for easier access.

A first build doesn't have to be final also you will need to consider isolators if on a wooden type floor than concrete. Isolators basically help to maintain the tactile where you want it...
Click to expand...

Just to follow up on the little cross-over device and ADX transducer since I mounted everything in an 16mm MDF board underneath the racing seat on my rig.

Built quality of the cross-over device is pretty bad as the RCA bit were loose so plugging in the RCA cables were a bit tricky. Anyway, I think it works well, adjusted the cut-off frequency to around 90hz and loving every bit of the strong bass/tactile feedback I'm getting from music and still excellent with movie. (Even though I could hear some other sounds coming through the transducer, not sure if it's the device cross-over device blame or it's normal)

So impressed that I'm definitely looking at investing in at least two more ADX transducers for my couch but have to wait for discounts because shipping such items from US to AUS are expensive.

I'm underwhelmed with Simvibe though. Using it for Project CARS and still struggling to tune it properly so that I get the rattling feedback I long for driving over the rumble strips. Definitely nothing to do with hardware or mounting.

Recap on inexpensive setup:
All-in-all, I'm very happy so far having no prior experience with bass transducers. Thanks to all who contributed their knowledge on the matter especially @Mr Latte
 
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Soulfresh_ACV
Just to follow up on the little cross-over device and ADX transducer since I mounted everything in an 16mm MDF board underneath the racing seat on my rig.

Built quality of the cross-over device is pretty bad as the RCA bit were loose so plugging in the RCA cables were a bit tricky. Anyway, I think it works well, adjusted the cut-off frequency to around 90hz and loving every bit of the strong bass/tactile feedback I'm getting from music and still excellent with movie. (Even though I could hear some other sounds coming through the transducer, not sure if it's the device cross-over device blame or it's normal)

So impressed that I'm definitely looking at investing in at least two more ADX transducers for my couch but have to wait for discounts because shipping such items from US to AUS are expensive.

I'm underwhelmed with Simvibe though. Using it for Project CARS and still struggling to tune it properly so that I get the rattling feedback I long for driving over the rumble strips. Definitely nothing to do with hardware or mounting.

Recap on inexpensive setup:
All-in-all, I'm very happy so far having no prior experience with bass transducers. Thanks to all who contributed their knowledge on the matter especially @Mr Latte
Click to expand...

I think PCars missing proper telemetry for full scaled road/rumble strip effects. Try AC, with laser scanned tracks it's definitely gives better road feel. Dirt Rally is not too bad either.
 
Andrew_WOT
I think PCars missing proper telemetry for full scaled road/rumble strip effects. Try AC, with laser scanned tracks it's definitely gives better road feel. Dirt Rally is not too bad either.
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I'll try AC. When I get the chance to get to it. It's really time consuming and I'll try to get one sim right first at a time to understand a bit more with each settings available in Extensions mode.
 
I get very good feedback in PCars from the rubble strips/curbs, but then again using a ButtKicker LFE I think I could feel a cigarette butt on the road.
 
Cobra seat meets new improved Endoskeleton :)

Part of my new ongoing build...
This will be my best yet regards tactile immersion.

Completely independent L/R frame with multiple points of direct contact to front/sides/rear for the T429. This should really improve and enhance the directional effects better than before.

Using 4x Clark T429 as shown before but now with dual Buttkicker LFE for maximum low end impact to each appropriate side. Will also now utilise a T329 Gold on back of seat when desired.

Ability to run as:

Left
Front and surround T429 with centred LFE underneath

Right
Front and surround T429 with centred LFE underneath

*Option to run with T429 in Quadraphonic (Dual Stereo)
*Surround tactile via T329 Gold on back of seat

Utk40TQl.jpg


nRi2bQk.jpg


JN13CT5.jpg


SkAkqdf.jpg



IxHgrlH.jpg
 
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Whoa… you obviously have way too much time on your hands, my friend. This looks better suited to be on board the Star Ship Enterprise 👍
 
RW65
Whoa… you obviously have way too much time on your hands, my friend. This looks better suited to be on board the Star Ship Enterprise 👍
Click to expand...

Just messing on getting the layout a way that I like it and know will work well.
It is rather tedious cutting the tubing and bolting the clamps.
 
Mr Latte
Cobra seat meets new improved Endoskeleton :)

Part of my new ongoing build...
This will be my best yet regards tactile immersion.

Completely independent L/R frame with multiple points of direct contact to front/sides/rear for the T429. This should really improve and enhance the directional effects better than before.

Using 4x Clark T429 as shown before but now with dual Buttkicker LFE for maximum low end impact to each appropriate side. Will also now utilise a T329 Gold on back of seat when desired.

Ability to run as:

Left
Front and surround T429 with centred LFE underneath

Right
Front and surround T429 with centred LFE underneath

*Option to run with T429 in Quadraphonic (Dual Stereo)
*Surround tactile via T329 Gold on back of seat

Utk40TQl.jpg


nRi2bQk.jpg


JN13CT5.jpg


SkAkqdf.jpg



IxHgrlH.jpg
Click to expand...

A chair worthy of being on the next Mad Max film lol.
 
Anyone tried messing around with the audio going into your tactiles?

Plugged one of these into my rig on the weekend (2 x earthquake mini + 2 x aura bass shaker)

KaossPad_kp2.jpg



Definitely adds another dimension!
 
Love to hear more on your usage and found benefits using it for tactile...


Plenty of different hardware available to alter audio outputs and enhance the source.
Not sure of the technical term used is but can that change/lower the octave but maintain the speed?

I had seen these in the past (but aint a clue on this side of audio)



The Korg reminded me of this guy who sure knows how to use em... (see his channel)
 
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Yeah, it can pitch up or down without altering tempo. You can apply filters, vocoder, isolate frequencies then manipulate them using the touchscreen, heaps of other effects.

It can also be used as an instrument - drum machine or synthesizer, using the touchscreen as the control surface. Then you can sample those sounds, loop them and play different ones over the top.

Search YouTube for beardyman

https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=PL2960843089FA95EA&v=Ux2dF84qSHk#
 
So how would something like this differ/compare?
Like the ipad/iphone app feature this has.



Seems to be a whole new avenue and for some may be worth consideration to experiment but one other issue with all these, is a limit to only 2 channels?
 
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Or Multiples of 2 channels.....

My thinking is use it to turn the centre output into 2 more sub outputs.

Not sure what that one does, but if apple are involved it's probably auto key related.
 
Ok, hello guys!

I`m going to start of by cross-thread quoting:

"Mr Latte Special - Dual Channel Tactile
If your looking a test to do, I'm curious to your opinion. Will you please try both a T239 and Basspump on a duplicated channel output. (3.5mm splitter) Then using the inuke dsp utilise the PEQ to give each input/tactile unit its own individual roles by splitting the Hz frequency range they each utilise.

I personally am of the opinion that tactile units work best with fewer effects or transitions in the operating frequencies. Not to overload them and loose detail. For example, lets consider how a loudspeaker may use a crossover for multiple/different drivers/tweeter. Why should we expect a single tactile unit to work wonders with multiple effects and frequencies?

To maximise performance, it is possible to split the "frequency range" of the channel/effects sharing the workload and operating frequencies with dual units. Basically giving the more competent unit the lower Hz (sub 20 - 35Hz) to operate in. Then the secondary unit (35Hz-90Hz) to only operate in. Also with two units used to provide the effects rather than one it can give more physical impact/response and regards your installation of the tactile improve displacement across the surface or target area.
You likely wont find many discussing this method as few I believe have done such but during your testing on your chair give it a go."


So Mr Latte, you lost me at duplicated channel output :dopey:. So does that mean, from pc, green audio out, split the left channel with the 3.5 splitter and then into input a and b on the inuke? I`m not sure how to set this up and also at the moment available basspumps are 8 ohm so I`m not sure how to make that one work with the tst239. Lol, I`m sorry, not much help from me I quess.....feel free to specify though :)

Anyways, I do think I comprehend what you are trying to do and I as a thought experiement I believe your logic of splitting work loads is sound. Also I`m starting to think less is more and I`m thinking it might be smart combining effects (simvibe) to individual tranducers based on how constant the effect are in the setup, meaning that transducers that is under constant operation from engine revs, road textures, white noise might as well be put in the extensions part which is seat, pedals, shifter. It seems to me it blends together well and there is to me no apparant reason for having directionals on these effects. Then, rather have chassis mode and effects like, bumps, verticals, impacts inserted into the rig in an effort to make them crisp and clear.

Don`t know if this was intended for improvement on simvibe or audio tactile or both? I`ll probably will be using simvibe primarly as I my main concern is to build a rig that works and that needs a minimal of tuning to get working reasonably well. For now atleast.

I love the pictures of the cobra seat and I need to ask a few questions, some concepts there I would like to use in my own build. The contact frames at the sides of the backrest looks awesome, and I from my experience, lower back, upper back and arms are very important for the tactile effect. How does it work?

1. The points where the metal frame connects with the seat, is the seat held through pressure or is it bolted to the chair? From watching your pictures I`ve been wondering how to maximize transducer effect which leads me to question nr.2.

2. Has any of you considered using leverage to get more out of your transducers? If so how did you mount it and how did it work?

Petro
 

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