The Doc's Classic Car Tunes Emporium.

  • Thread starter bigmull
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A challenging drive (in a very good way) with no assists , only ABS...
You have to think and drive it like a pilot, respect the slow in, fast out and imo you'll get the best of GT7 physics experience!

TY! 👍

@bigmull

Could you please kindly share the link/builder's name of the livery? Building the car now to try it. TY!
I will have a look for the livery builder on the showcase later today.
 
A challenging drive (in a very good way) with no assists , only ABS...
You have to think and drive it like a pilot, respect the slow in, fast out and imo you'll get the best of GT7 physics experience!

TY! 👍

@bigmull

Could you please kindly share the link/builder's name of the livery? Building the car now to try it. TY!
The Livery creator is Tautin!!
Hope that helps.
 
As requested a tune for the Nissan Skyline 2000 GTR (Engine Swap).It is quite a good car as long as you use the Turbo that comes with the engine,you will get over 5 laps of fuel and a set of RH tyres will last the race.I did have to add a front splitter and rear wing as with the extra power it needs it. It will hit the 180’s down Mulsanne and stops fairly quickly as soon as the tyres get some heat in them.You can go for the mid and high RPM Turbo but it becomes almost undriveable but does go like hot snot, and it’s best not to talk about fuel economy with them. I have tried to stop the wheel spin in second gear but this is the best I can get it,just be a little lighter on acceleration. It isn’t the best car in the wet but it’s still driveable.
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As requested a tune for the Nissan Skyline 2000 GTR (Engine Swap).It is quite a good car as long as you use the Turbo that comes with the engine,you will get over 5 laps of fuel and a set of RH tyres will last the race.I did have to add a front splitter and rear wing as with the extra power it needs it. It will hit the 180’s down Mulsanne and stops fairly quickly as soon as the tyres get some heat in them.You can go for the mid and high RPM Turbo but it becomes almost undriveable but does go like hot snot, and it’s best not to talk about fuel economy with them. I have tried to stop the wheel spin in second gear but this is the best I can get it,just be a little lighter on acceleration. It isn’t the best car in the wet but it’s still driveable.
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Thank you very much! This setup fits the swap so good!
 
I have revisited the Alpine 110.I have managed to make it more controllable overall,the problem was that there was a lot of weight on the rear and under acceleration the front would lift and the rear would go in the opposite direction which made it unstable especially in corners. I dont normally add wings but this car really needs one on the rear.
I added some weight to the front which improved the steering response.A set of RM will last the race and you can get just over 6 laps of fuel.Don’t expect to be in the lead after a couple of laps,it will hit 170 mph with a tow,where this car wins is by being consistent and having good fuel economy.That said it is a fun car to receive with,just take it easy until the tyres warm up.
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I have seen and read your posts in the Le Mans thread and like you i love the older cars, i am also a controller user. I have come to a radical theory and i need / want your help in either proving it or disproving it, i am looking for an unbiased view in this because i am biased by my own thoughts and experiences.
My theory is that the NORMAL suspension setting are what the actual car was designed for and when one gets the FULL CUSTOM SUSPENSION the settings are somewhat generic and the same for other cars. I have driven few of my cars at Le Mans with the custom settings and more often than not the car is either oversteering or pushing in corners, snap oversteer often shows up too. When i switch back to the Normal suspension i seem to find that the car is more controllable. I am asking if you have time please try this and let me know if i am just a poor driving loon or there is something to my theory.
thank you.

(p.s. if anyone else wants to try this and do please let me know, thank you)
 
I have seen and read your posts in the Le Mans thread and like you i love the older cars, i am also a controller user. I have come to a radical theory and i need / want your help in either proving it or disproving it, i am looking for an unbiased view in this because i am biased by my own thoughts and experiences.
My theory is that the NORMAL suspension setting are what the actual car was designed for and when one gets the FULL CUSTOM SUSPENSION the settings are somewhat generic and the same for other cars. I have driven few of my cars at Le Mans with the custom settings and more often than not the car is either oversteering or pushing in corners, snap oversteer often shows up too. When i switch back to the Normal suspension i seem to find that the car is more controllable. I am asking if you have time please try this and let me know if i am just a poor driving loon or there is something to my theory.
thank you.

(p.s. if anyone else wants to try this and do please let me know, thank you)
I agree that “normal “ road cars are designed for “standard “ suspension.However if you upgrade your suspension without using a LSD You will get the issues that you mention. The LSD has a major effect on the handling which mitigates the suspension problems.Tuning is the “whole “ package rather than just isolated parts.Cars are all different,an E Type has a very long body and wheelbase,while a Porsche is the opposite,just by stiffening or softening the suspension it’s not going to do much for cornering or effective braking.To explain a bit more,when braking for a corner there is a “lag” between the wheels moving into the corner and the car physically moving to take the corner,hence under steer,so using a LSD it kind of removes this lag effect enabling better cornering,also a hard front suspension can make the car squirrel all over the place under heavy braking.So think of it this way,if you upgrade the Engine and you have 700 bhp it’s not going to be very good unless you can stop it effectively so you need to upgrade the brakes.So just upgrading the suspension in isolation is not going make much of an improvement in its self. hope this longwinded explanation helps.For example,using the E Type just tune the suspension and engine etc but keep the differential stock,take it for a spin (and spin it will!), install a LSD and use the setting in my tune for it and you will see the difference. Have a look at the following video and pay attention to the acceleration and braking inputs and how the car reacts to them.

Notice how on certain corners accelerating “pushes” the front so you take the corner tighter and how quick it is to react to steering input,this is the LSD at work.As for the Toe in and Out setting and Camber I am not convinced that the game accurately reproduces changes in an accurate way so I leave them alone.
 
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I agree that “normal “ road cars are designed for “standard “ suspension.However if you upgrade your suspension without using a LSD You will get the issues that you mention. The LSD has a major effect on the handling which mitigates the suspension problems.Tuning is the “whole “ package rather than just isolated parts.Cars are all different,an E Type has a very long body and wheelbase,while a Porsche is the opposite,just by stiffening or softening the suspension it’s not going to do much for cornering or effective braking.To explain a bit more,when braking for a corner there is a “lag” between the wheels moving into the corner and the car physically moving to take the corner,hence under steer,so using a LSD it kind of removes this lag effect enabling better cornering,also a hard front suspension can make the car squirrel all over the place under heavy braking.So think of it this way,if you upgrade the Engine and you have 700 bhp it’s not going to be very good unless you can stop it effectively so you need to upgrade the brakes.So just upgrading the suspension in isolation is not going make much of an improvement in its self. hope this longwinded explanation helps.For example,using the E Type just tune the suspension and engine etc but keep the differential stock,take it for a spin (and spin it will!), install a LSD and use the setting in my tune for it and you will see the difference. Have a look at the following video and pay attention to the acceleration and braking inputs and how the car reacts to them.

Notice how on certain corners accelerating “pushes” the front so you take the corner tighter and how quick it is to react to steering input,this is the LSD at work.As for the Toe in and Out setting and Camber I am not convinced that the game accurately reproduces changes in an accurate way so I leave them alone.

You have given me such insight and great information on this subject, I am learning on how to make adjustments in the suspension for the car to handle in predicted forms. Thank you so much.
 
You have given me such insight and great information on this subject, I am learning on how to make adjustments in the suspension for the car to handle in predicted forms. Thank you so much.
Also think of a see saw,as you accelerate the rear goes down and the front does the opposite so you need to reduce the rear compression and front expansion but this may effect the tyre wear, so it is a trade off.Reducing the Natural Frequency will reduce tyre wear as well, so it’s a balancing act to get the best set up. I always have at least 2 tune sheets keeping one that I know is pretty good and use the other for making changes so you can always roll back to the first one.Also don’t change too much at once, do it bit bt bit so you can see what changes you make and it’s effect.
 
I always have at least 2 tune sheets keeping one that I know is pretty good and use the other for making changes so you can always roll back to the first one.Also don’t change too much at once, do it bit bt bit so you can see what changes you make and it’s effect.
great idea, will use this...
 
I was usingthe Jaguar D Type last night and it really illustrates how it responds to a good LSD set up and suspension.As you can see there is very little lifting on the front and compression of the rear under acceleration which makes it much more stable.Also if you look at how it corners through the chicane halfway down Mulsanne,as soon as the brakes are released the front immediately responds to the steering input rather than it just not turning in the corners,that’s how you get both the LSD and suspension to work together making the car more efficient in the corners. I hope this makes sense.It’s no a brilliant lap but it does show what I am trying to explain. I will do a lap with no LSD later so you can see the difference.
 
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I have been tinkering with the DB5 tune,it’s improved the tyre wear and fuel efficiency,you still need a 1 stop for fuel but tyres will last the race. I swapped superchargers so that improved the fuel economy without any detrimental effects on speed.With it being such a low revving engine you can get caught out with just how fast you are going.
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Aaarrrrgggg!!!This tune nearly beat me! I was pulling my hair out,nothing was going right, I would change one thing and then the car got worse and worse!Then I saw it!The camber settings was way out!Returned it to where it should have been and BINGO! It sorted it all out.So a set of RH will last the whole race and you get just short of 4 laps of fuel. I think I can get better fuel efficiency so will post an updated tune if I can sort it.
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Can I make a suggestion to you? On your tune for the 904, the Toe Angle setting on the rear was too in at 40. I was getting some serious tyre wear on the rears so I backed it down to 10 and I still get some tyre wear but not even half as I had before. Otherwise it's a great tune...
 
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Can I make a suggestion to you? On your tune for the 904, the Toe Angle setting on the rear was too in at 40. I was getting some serious tyre wear on the rears so I backed it down to 10 and I still get some tyre wear but not even half as I had before. Otherwise it's a great tune...
That’s odd as I don’t get much tyre wear at all but then I tend to use RH Tyres.
 
Here is the latest tune for the Honda 272.I have tweaked the rear camber which has improved rear end adhesion. The gears have been adjusted so 210 mph on FM6 is possible. These changes have had no effect on tyre wear.Fuel is increased so you get over 11 laps.
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Here is the latest tune for the Honda 272.I have tweaked the rear camber which has improved rear end adhesion. The gears have been adjusted so 210 mph on FM6 is possible. These changes have had no effect on tyre wear.Fuel is increased so you get over 11 laps.
Suggestion: go -3 on brake balance to prevent the front from twisting under braking in rainy conditions.



 
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Suggestion: go -3 on brake balance to prevent the front from twisting under braking in rainy conditions.




It’s stable enough in the wet, after 2 laps I reduce it to-1 as the tyres heat up.
How do you get those different camera angles on the reply?
 
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I need to see if a +1 or+ 2 setting works better as the rears have more contact area that fronts without affecting the tyre wear.
I did a race with +1 brake balance and it does stop better but you need to get some heat into the tyres I also tweaked the gears and LSD Settings so it corners better and there was no detrimental effect to the tyre wear either. I will post the tune later today.
 
Today I am revisiting the 1954 Mercedes Benz 300 SL. I forgot how much fun this car is. I have tweaked some of the settings,a set of RH will last the race and you get over 5 laps of fuel.This car will do the mid 170’s down Mulsanne and stops really well.
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Later on I will be posting an updated tune for the Ferrari 250 GTO. I think this is unique in the game as a set of RS will last the whole 7 lap race at Le Mans with the ability to do more than just 7 laps!
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