The Doc's Classic Car Tunes Emporium.

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Today I give you the Ferrari 250 GTO.Le Mans was made for this car,,it copes perfectly.This car unlike 99% of the other cars will do the whole race (and more) on a set of RS. It has just short of 5 laps of fuel.This car brakes really well and handles the corners with ease. It isn’t super fast but you can win the Le Mans race easily.
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I didn’t change the individual gear ratios,hence just the 2 tune sheets.
 
Just pulled my GTO out of my garage and gave it the full tune... took it out on the track and I was all over the place as i was not used to how "sticky" the RS tyres are and thus i switched back to RH. That was not the solution to my problems as i had another and did not realize that i had caused it.
After i switched back to RH I had issues with the sharper turns and i saw that the little red steering dot was not going full lock and thinking about i was diving and bottoming out when braking, so i increased the spring rate by 60 in the front but that did not help, i was still not going lock to lock.
That's when i remembered long ago when i first got the 250 GTO i had done just a few modifications and one of them was going wide on the offset with the original wheels but I did not get the widebody modification. The initial setup i had worked well enough on my initial test at the Ring and then i parked it away not using this 20,000,000 car for anything. I reverted back to normal offset and my steering problems went away.
In my final attempt of a race i was lucky to have not enough rain to force me to change to IMs and therefore i was able to complete the race with only a stop for petrol at the end of the 5th lap. Coming out of pits on Lap 6 and 12 seconds behind P1, I put it to FM1 and went my fastest to at least start a lap 7 to win this race.
Overall it is a good car, and with the limited Hp it has it does make it a balancing act of fuel over speed to win.
 
Just pulled my GTO out of my garage and gave it the full tune... took it out on the track and I was all over the place as i was not used to how "sticky" the RS tyres are and thus i switched back to RH. That was not the solution to my problems as i had another and did not realize that i had caused it.
After i switched back to RH I had issues with the sharper turns and i saw that the little red steering dot was not going full lock and thinking about i was diving and bottoming out when braking, so i increased the spring rate by 60 in the front but that did not help, i was still not going lock to lock.
That's when i remembered long ago when i first got the 250 GTO i had done just a few modifications and one of them was going wide on the offset with the original wheels but I did not get the widebody modification. The initial setup i had worked well enough on my initial test at the Ring and then i parked it away not using this 20,000,000 car for anything. I reverted back to normal offset and my steering problems went away.
In my final attempt of a race i was lucky to have not enough rain to force me to change to IMs and therefore i was able to complete the race with only a stop for petrol at the end of the 5th lap. Coming out of pits on Lap 6 and 12 seconds behind P1, I put it to FM1 and went my fastest to at least start a lap 7 to win this race.
Overall it is a good car, and with the limited Hp it has it does make it a balancing act of fuel over speed to win.

Wide offset makes the wheel catch on the bodywork, but plain wide tyres are ok.Overall it’s faster than you think the lap times aren’t too bad,while it loses in top speed it gains in braking and cornering.
 
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Further to my latest tune for the Ferrari GTO 250,although it can do the race on RS I have found that it performs better using either RH or RM.It seems that RS are too grippy which affects the cornering.
 
Since the update there appears to be an issue with the steering at certain corners. I think I have sorted it but will check it over the weekend.This happened to the DB3s and it took me ages to sort it.
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I thought it was time to look at the Jaguar D Type again. I swapped the Supercharger for the one in the “extreme “ section of the tuning shop. It has improved both the acceleration and top end speed without any increase of fuel use so you still get just short of 5 laps.A set of RH will last the whole race and a set of RM will last 6 laps. If you start on RH just take a bit of care until the tyres get some heat into them.For a car on skinny tyres and no downforce it is remarkably good and sounds great as well.
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I thought it was time to look at the Jaguar D Type again. I swapped the Supercharger for the one in the “extreme “ section of the tuning shop. It has improved both the acceleration and top end speed without any increase of fuel use so you still get just short of 5 laps.A set of RH will last the whole race and a set of RM will last 6 laps. If you start on RH just take a bit of care until the tyres get some heat into them.For a car on skinny tyres and no downforce it is remarkably good and sounds great as well.
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sweet
 
Just a small tweak,lowered the suspension and fiddled with the LSD. It has improved the performance and increased the fuel economy a smidge,it’s also improved in cornering as well.
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I was using the Maserati Merak and just wasn’t happy with the fuel economy, so I decided to go a bit old school and removed the spoilers and turbo. It still sounded great and wasn’t too hampered by no turbo. The fuel consumption was almost doubled to just over 5 laps,it will hit 175+ mph down Mulsanne. I was a bit worried about the performance in the wet but it handles fine and stops well. I do prefer the NA Tune over the Turbo tune as it’s more challenging.
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Further to the Merak NA tune I had to sort the gears as they were way too long,they were fine with a turbocharger.Changing the gears only lost 0.3 of a lap of fuel.
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A small time update for the Honda S800. I made a couple of changes to the suspension setup,all the other settings were untouched hence just the one sheet. It now handles better through corners and the rear locking up under heavy braking has been fixed.
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I am working on a “detuned “ version of the Porsche 356 with the engine swap. The previous version was a bit too powerful making it a real handful. I need to get better tyre wear and fuel use.
 
I wanted to have a useable tune for the Porsche 365 Carrera so went with just the engine swap and weight reduction upgrades. It will still get 200 mph on FM6,a set of RH will last 5 laps if driven conservatively and just over 4.6 laps of fuel. I went with the stock turbo as the other turbos just gobble fuel and the car is nearly undriveable. The rear can get loose until the tyres get some heat in them.It’s a great little car if you are after something a bit different.
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I should have a tune for the new Chevelle in a day or two.It handles well with no spoilers or wings but like a lot of big Yank Wagons it has poor fuel economy. It does ok with a NA motor but as you can only get 2 laps on a tank you need a little bit of luck to win the 700 pp Le Mans race.Also the front tyres take a bit of a beating wearing out before the rears,that said I think a set of RH will last the race……just.
 
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I should have a tune for the new Chevelle in a day or two.It handles well with no spoilers or wings but like a lot of big Yank Wagons it has poor fuel economy. It does ok with a NA motor but as you can only get 2 laps on a tank you need a little bit of luck to win the 700 pp Le Mans race.Also the front tyres take a bit of a beating wearing out before the rears,that said I think a set of RH will last the race……just.
I'm getting loads of wheel spin - fully upgraded - 50 ballast on the front (ive tried rear too) / lowered
 
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