The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

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fishfash
I always left foot brake and find the brake and accelerator pedal too close to each other for comfort.

I am a console user, I guess project cars should give me the option to reassign, however I won't be able to use the brake mod.

The reason I wanted to disconnect the clutch is so that I could make a single metal plate and join the clutch and brake together. I did that with my clubsport pedals and it's perfect for comfort.
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You can do it with a few simple tools if you are handy with them. Once you take the top cover plates off it is easy to see how to slide them along the rods to wherever you want, but you need to made a new top plate then. You can use the original top plate if you remove the clutch and extend the wires from the brake to the accelerator then putting the brake where the clutch was. 4 circlips and 4 Allen head bolts is all that holds the unit together once you've removed the top plates.
Here's some pictures of mine when I had them apart to replace the springs.
20160116_164502.jpg
20160116_164625.jpg
 
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FPV MIC
You can do it with a few simple tools if you are handy with them. Once you take the top cover plates off it is easy to see how to slide them along the rods to wherever you want, but you need to made a new top plate then. You can use the original top plate if you remove the clutch and extend the wires from the brake to the accelerator then putting the brake where the clutch was. 4 circlips and 4 Allen head bolts is all that holds the unit together once you've removed the top plates.
Here's some pictures of mine when I had them apart to replace the springs.View attachment 545424 View attachment 545425
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Great thanks.
 
My T500 arrived today, what a heavy box :lol:

I wanted to continue to use my stock G29 pedals for a few days before I mount the T500 pedals onto my Rig.

I have been using the BPA-TX-G27 with my G29 pedals and Thrustmaster TX wheel for many months without any problems. However when I plug the BPA-TX-G27 into the T500 wheel, the wheel does not power on. If I remove the adapter the wheel will power on.

I guess it's not compatible? The only mod I have performed on the G29 pedals is the gteye brake spring mod, and I have them inverted.

Thanks.
 
fishfash
My T500 arrived today, what a heavy box :lol:

I wanted to continue to use my stock G29 pedals for a few days before I mount the T500 pedals onto my Rig.

I have been using the BPA-TX-G27 with my G29 pedals and Thrustmaster TX wheel for many months without any problems. However when I plug the BPA-TX-G27 into the T500 wheel, the wheel does not power on. If I remove the adapter the wheel will power on.

I guess it's not compatible? The only mod I have performed on the G29 pedals is the gteye brake spring mod, and I have them inverted.

Thanks.
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Try changing the spacing between the T500 pedals by moving the plates (allen key for this should be in that heavy box:)), there's quite a bit of adjustment and it just might be enough for you.
 
I have joined the clutch and brake pedals together with a piece of metal I had laying around. Does not look very pretty but does the job. I have mapped R3 as the clutch within Project Cars.

I did the same to my Clubsport pedals.

EqEaMau.jpg


Edit 31st May:- Looks and feels a lot better, with a larger brake pedal. My feet kept slipping because of the angle so I added a stopper and put some foam on it for comfort.

Tn9YZXW.jpg
 
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Clutch is not working on PCars. When I go to the calibrate pedals window & press down on the clutch it does not register at all (the brake & accelerator do). Some time ago it worked, but only sporadically ie the clutch would work for a while in-game, but then not work. If I returned to the calibrate pedals window I would have to try multiple times before eventually getting the clutch to register. I had assumed this was a software glitch on PCars, but now I'm thinking that maybe the T500 pedals are faulty.

Is there any history of this problem & any known fixes?
 
Biggles
Clutch is not working on PCars. When I go to the calibrate pedals window & press down on the clutch it does not register at all (the brake & accelerator do). Some time ago it worked, but only sporadically ie the clutch would work for a while in-game, but then not work. If I returned to the calibrate pedals window I would have to try multiple times before eventually getting the clutch to register. I had assumed this was a software glitch on PCars, but now I'm thinking that maybe the T500 pedals are faulty.

Is there any history of this problem & any known fixes?
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Only one data point, but my first T500 had the same thing: after over a year of behaving fine the clutch pedal suddenly stopped working (the whole time it was screwed on to a rig, pedals never being moved, no risk of damaging the internals). Presumably the potentiometer just gave out.

Thankfully, being in EU where we have 2 year warranty meant I got a replacement T500, which works just fine.
 
Can anyone tell the exact specs of the power supply? Or better yet where I could buy a replacement (in japan without a credit card...:( )?
 
So, i'm planning to get a used T500, the owner says that it is the Integrale version. That comes with with the F1 wheel, so it doesn't come with the GT rim.

I remember that was a Integrale version... but i don't know it for sure. Do you guys can tell me if it is true? There was a version of the T500 that comes with the F1 rim?
 
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Cocomoto
So, i'm planning to get a used T500, the owner says that it is the Integrale version. That comes with with the F1 wheel, so it doesn't come with the GT rim.

I remember that was a Integrale version... but i don't know it for sure. Do you guys can tell me if it is true? There was a version of the T500 that comes with the F1 rim?
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Yes there was an integral version

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005NH6L44/?tag=gtplanetuk-20
 
Thanks mate. I'm trying to find a good price on a used T500 but this one is the best i could find.

Do you guys know if playing with a F1 rim with others types of cars are bad?
I can easily find F1 rim add on for a good price, but the "round" rims, not that much.
 
I don't think you can buy the stock rim but you can buy plenty of other round rims - gte, alcantara evo wheel, leather 28gt wheel, Ferrari 458 wheel - on eBay....

The trick is whether or not the integrate version will let you switch the rims or not?
 
I think you'll find that the integral version is the standard T500 servo base and is compatible with all the Eco wheel rims, I have the t500 servo base and use the F1 rim, the leather 28gt and the stock t500 rim.
You could always drop Thrustmaster an email for any info.
Remember if you buy the T500 integral version that if you the T500 stock rim it doesn't come with flappy paddles for sequential shifting, so you'd be best to buy one of the other rim that pretend racer suggested.
 
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stevefoz
I think you'll find that the integral version is the standard T500 servo base and is compatible with all the Eco wheel rims, I have the t500 servo base and use the F1 rim, the leather 28gt and the stock t500 rim.
You could always drop Thrustmaster an email for any info.
Remember if you buy the T500 integral version that if you the T500 stock rim it doesn't come with flappy paddles for sequential shifting, so you'd be best to buy one of the other rim that pretend racer suggested.
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If you already have the F1 rim, that's good for open wheel cars. Everything else works just fine with the fixed paddles in my opinion.

But since the stock T500 30cm no paddles rim isn't purchaseable separately, it would probably make sense to look at round rims for drifting or rally use.

Soulfresh_ACV
Can someone please point me to great Dirt Rally/Raceroom settings for T500RS?
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I use stock settings in RaceRoom, but turn damping off, master gain down slightly to avoid clipping, and turn off the canned effects (leave a small amount of kerb and gearshift, rest off). Since the recent rewrite, RaceRoom has very impressive FFB. There's a button to bring up a FFB meter and you can change the gain of each car separately, so loads of room to work with.

In DiRT Rally I turn damping off, self-aligning torque down to around 60, and most of the other values to around 70. Obviously soft lock is only relevant if you actually use it (I don't, I use 60% steering saturation and leave 900 degrees in drivers, so I run all cars at 540 degrees).
 
Cocomoto
So, in order to play with different rims with the T500RS on the PS4, do i have to update it?
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Always best to update to the latest firmware from the Thrustmaster site, but the answer is no, you can use any of the Eco system rims,




This is T300 but they all work with T500, I hope this helps
 
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Well, i was talking with a PSN friend who have a broken T300RS too and... we both had the lasted firmware, the 1.25 when the loss of FFB and incorrect calibration errors happened. So we came up with a theory that maybe this firmware is causing this.

Today, on a Brazilian forum about wheels, a random guy told that just after updating the firmware, the wheels got the same problem. I he was playing PCars, just like me and my friend...

So, this is where my fear of updating the firmware comes from...
 
Cocomoto
Well, i was talking with a PSN friend who have a broken T300RS too and... we both had the lasted firmware, the 1.25 when the loss of FFB and incorrect calibration errors happened. So we came up with a theory that maybe this firmware is causing this.

Today, on a Brazilian forum about wheels, a random guy told that just after updating the firmware, the wheels got the same problem. I he was playing PCars, just like me and my friend...

So, this is where my fear of updating the firmware comes from...
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And no luck finding common issue behind this?
I'm wondering if the issue may arise in a recent TM driver upgrade package rather than one of the earlier ones (v25 came out originally with the 2015_TTRS_2 driver package, we are now on the 2016_2 driver package)

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=1&fid=2&pid=374&cid=15 obviously has a "firmware upgrade guide" showing the steps.

My own wheel's upgrade from v24 to v25 went fine. I did this on a USB 2.0 port from a PC running Windows 10, having first done the following:
- unplugged wheel
- uninstalled the previous TM driver package
- rebooted
- installed new TM driver package (which would have been 2015_TTRS_2 package, not 2016_TTRS_1 or 2016_TTRS_2)
- inserted T300 when requested by TM driver installation wizard
- once TM driver package was fully installed, confirmed control panel calibration/FFB settings screen was working properly
- after confirming everything was good I started the firmware upgrade from v24 to v25
- it went perfectly, no issues
 
So, in order to play PCars on PS4 with the T500, do you guys uses or recommend a FFb settings?

With the T300 there's this thing that some people say that Pcars has some guilty on the wheels problems. So we have to set the Master Scale at 25.

Do i have to do the same with the T500? I don't want to destroy my T500(that i just bought and may arrive in the next week!).
 
Cocomoto
So, in order to play PCars on PS4 with the T500, do you guys uses or recommend a FFb settings?

With the T300 there's this thing that some people say that Pcars has some guilty on the wheels problems. So we have to set the Master Scale at 25.

Do i have to do the same with the T500? I don't want to destroy my T500(that i just bought and may arrive in the next week!).
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I find that the T500 needs gain set 5-10% lower, any damping you used for the T300 is not required for the T500. Other than that, all other settings can be left the same.

You want the T500 set with high enough gain that it doesn't feel vague or imprecise, which means forces will be higher than the T300. So that will take some getting used to.
 
Well, 5-10% lower than the T300?

Maybe later you could link me to some guide. I just don't remenber the settings at this time. I even deleted Pcars from the PS4.

I'm really worried about those configurations on Pcars, maybe a even don't play it anymore if i think that it will ruin my wheel.
 
Why is there so much mystery surrounding T500RS potentiometers? Nothing online about replacements, You Tube videos, or even what type they are. Have been going through e-mail hell with Thrustmaster about this. Told them in first e-mail I wanted to order one from them and 4 e-mails later I'm no closer than I was a week ago. I would buy them somewhere else but nobody knows the correct specs. Not willing to try one that "might" work. For such a simple part that that would seem pron to go bad they are nowhere to be found. UPDATE: 7-12-16 Finally they are giving me a chance to order a potentiometer. $12.80 including shipping. I hope my soldering skills are up to the task.
 
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VetteZR1
Why is there so much mystery surrounding T500RS potentiometers? Nothing online about replacements, You Tube videos, or even what type they are. Have been going through e-mail hell with Thrustmaster about this. Told them in first e-mail I wanted to order one from them and 4 e-mails later I'm no closer than I was a week ago. I would buy them somewhere else but nobody knows the correct specs. Not willing to try one that "might" work. For such a simple part that that would seem pron to go bad they are nowhere to be found.
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There's one guy here in Brazil that make potentiometers for T500, G27 , T300 and others wheels.
Those pieces of hardware are digital, the major problem will be the mounting of it. But he even have some videos teaching it.

https://www.facebook.com/CMC-Evolutions-Motion-Platform-717963101595689/

The price is R$ 70,00, on the actual exchange rate, it is USD 20-22, plus shipping. i don't know if he speak english or if him sends to another country, but if you're interested, i could help you.
 

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