The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

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meekrab
The PP calculation does appear to be uh... "weird" about the ballast, shifting it around causes un-intuitive changes to PP and sometimes adding more can increase the PP of the car? :confused:

Like if I have 31 kg ballast at -8, it comes out to 600.06. If I add a kg, it goes to 600.82 PP. :dunce:
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The PP calculations for ballast factor in the weight balance and distribution of the car. If you add weight where it is favorable for handling improvements or improve traction to the drive wheels then it will increase PP rating, add it where it makes it worse and it’ll decrease PP, for the most part. I say for the most part because the PP calculations for ballast are broken just like everything else. Sometimes moving downforce 1 tick in either direction will yield drastically different calculations than 1 tick more or 1 tick less should. I believe PD tried to make the PP system so complex it doesn’t even understand itself…or they just can’t figure out how to fix it, so this is what we get.
 
Ran this race in the A220 yesterday. It's not the fastest of cars, but with short shifting it can finish the race without pitting. If I recall correctly I was somewhere in the mid-high 27 minute mark and my fastest laps were in the high 2:14's.
 
Okay, well the AMG black is a crazy car. I tried it on a 1 stop strategy but that was a terrible idea because the rear tires really only last 4-5 laps. Lap 12 I did several pirouette on both the main straight and through the back side of the track.

I didnt notice any strange braking anomalies. I tried the brake balance controller at -2 rear and -4 front and the car still would brake in a fairly controlled and straight line. I think it is just the sheer speed this car has that requires you to brake just a bit earlier than your regular braking points. I used the first flashing light on the right side of the track for the first corner and just a hair after the 200m board for the braking zone in to the hairpin.

The car is rather unstable and has a real fine line of getting the suspension loaded up and when it wants to break the rear end loose, and not in a good way.

Overall it was my fastest overall race time and I still got the clean race bonus right on my first try. No where close to your time @engrmariano but I think with some practice I can get close to your time.
 
Tommy_D
Okay, well the AMG black is a crazy car. I tried it on a 1 stop strategy but that was a terrible idea because the rear tires really only last 4-5 laps. Lap 12 I did several pirouette on both the main straight and through the back side of the track.

I didnt notice any strange braking anomalies. I tried the brake balance controller at -2 rear and -4 front and the car still would brake in a fairly controlled and straight line. I think it is just the sheer speed this car has that requires you to brake just a bit earlier than your regular braking points. I used the first flashing light on the right side of the track for the first corner and just a hair after the 200m board for the braking zone in to the hairpin.

The car is rather unstable and has a real fine line of getting the suspension loaded up and when it wants to break the rear end loose, and not in a good way.

Overall it was my fastest overall race time and I still got the clean race bonus right on my first try. No where close to your time @engrmariano but I think with some practice I can get close to your time.
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yup 1 stop is slower but not much, i did 24:42 on 1st try as you need to save tires and a bit of fuel.

for the braking, i'm still jam braking (still learning how to modulate), will try that one.

the car is rear heavy even though it's FR, so suspension setup should be similar to MR i guess.
 
I used to hate that event but now it's a lot of fun drifting around my Porsche 911 GT3 '07 on SM tires with a little bit power restrictor - 97 I think. Going to pit for new set of SM and fuel after lap 8.

You can put sport discs, pads and sport suspentions with more power restrictor - 87 and still easily beat the A.I. I finish the event for about 27min.
 
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A couple of days ago i tried the new honda ra272 in tokyo.
Beated while hitting the wall and light touching suswillo. Got the crb.
Did PD corrected the crb for tokyo wtc600?

(Btw honda ra272 is an amazing farm car, worth every cent it costs. I fully recommend buying it before they give it the escudo treatment on the lcd.)
 
I had the Audi Quattro 5 pot engine. Bought the MK1 golf. And with a few mods was within the 600pp. Tyres are what comes with CS I think. Top speed is 210+ mph. Only issue is handling. Fuel wise looks like can do the race with no stops. Just tyres. Need to find a setup that will work.
 
Doncarlone
A couple of days ago i tried the new honda ra272 in tokyo.
Beated while hitting the wall and light touching suswillo. Got the crb.
Did PD corrected the crb for tokyo wtc600?

(Btw honda ra272 is an amazing farm car, worth every cent it costs. I fully recommend buying it before they give it the escudo treatment on the lcd.)
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I don't think so, because in one race, Hizal turned into me at the hairpin and I grazed some walls and I didn't get the CRB, while in the second race, I was able to avoid touching anyone but still grazed the wall a few times and got the CRB. Hitting the walls have never gotten rid of the CRB in the past afaik.
 
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engrmariano
yup 1 stop is slower but not much, i did 24:42 on 1st try as you need to save tires and a bit of fuel.

for the braking, i'm still jam braking (still learning how to modulate), will try that one.

the car is rear heavy even though it's FR, so suspension setup should be similar to MR i guess.
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So I did some tests to try to get more stability around the fast bends on the back side of the track. I think I have something that works, but I still haven't tried it in the actual race. My fastest test lap on a dry track was 1:53.838.

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I did test with the car on the sport soft tires in the actual 600pp race. It's definetly a 2 stop race as the first set of tires last only 5 laps, then the second set lasts 4 and the 3rd set will get you to the end of the race. I feel like the SS tires are a bit more stable under braking and through the fast turns. The first lap is definetly slower than it would be with the intermediates, but I would rather have a bit more consistency and stability to enjoy the race a bit more.

Edit: Ran a 24:56.629 with a fastest lap of 1:54.571. That first lap is really slippery, but a dry line gets established for lap 2. I'm sure some more seat time with the car could lead to some mid 24 minute race times.
 
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Thanks @engrmariano this thing was a perfect beast!
Full Race 24:05
Fastest lap: 1:49!
 

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meekrab
Is there a trick to this Cayman setup? I applied all the same parts and ballast and positioning and it came out at 600.32 PP. The PP calculation does appear to be uh... "weird" about the ballast, shifting it around causes un-intuitive changes to PP and sometimes adding more can increase the PP of the car? :confused:

Like if I have 31 kg ballast at -8, it comes out to 600.06. If I add a kg, it goes to 600.82 PP. :dunce:
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I think you're right, and there's a weird sporadic glitch related to ballast. I have a tune where moving 1 kg of ballast to a different position caused a 60-point swing in PP!
 
luv2drive
I think you're right, and there's a weird sporadic glitch related to ballast. I have a tune where moving 1 kg of ballast to a different position caused a 60-point swing in PP!
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This is not a glitch nor is it specific to the ballast, this is just how the PP valuation system works. It does this with downforce adjustments also and used to do it with several of the suspension settings when that was factored into PP.
PD didn’t do a very good job with the PP calculations and after an entire year of it being that way doesn’t seem like it’s on their lis of priorities to fix it.
 
BangsMcCoy
This is not a glitch nor is it specific to the ballast, this is just how the PP valuation system works. It does this with downforce adjustments also and used to do it with several of the suspension settings when that was factored into PP.
PD didn’t do a very good job with the PP calculations and after an entire year of it being that way doesn’t seem like it’s on their lis of priorities to fix it.
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If you only it is not a glitch because the reason is PD didnt make the calculations any good, then I would argue this definitly a glitch for how much PP is lost for a minor change and because PD cant make it work as any player would expect.
A move of a slider of 1 step shouldnt be worth as much as the difference between comfort and racing tyres, but instead only small PP values like it is the case for most of the single step slider adjustments.
 
Meythia
If you only it is not a glitch because the reason is PD didnt make the calculations any good, then I would argue this definitly a glitch for how much PP is lost for a minor change and because PD cant make it work as any player would expect.
A move of a slider of 1 step shouldnt be worth as much as the difference between comfort and racing tyres, but instead only small PP values like it is the case for most of the single step slider adjustments.
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This a poor design rather than a glitch based on the definition of the word ‘glitch’ in this scenario and context. Glitches are malfunctions or irregularities and usually temporary. Given that this is common, expected (though you don’t know exactly where as it varies from car to car) and it has been present since release of the game with no mentions of it being a known issue they intend to address, this is much more a poor design rather than a glitch.

I agree that it shouldn’t work this way, however it does, and has since release.
 
What should be classified as a "glitch" tune? Sure there are occasionally cars that have a big shift in PP by a small adjustment to the ballast or aerodynamics, but what is the cut off that says one is okay and the other is a glitch?

Something I find strange is that the game may say the car is under 600pp, but if Iook at my ranking board under the time trial and sort it by PP level, the car will show it in a class well above its stated PP. For example, the AMG Black tune that was just recently brought up is called a "glitch" tune. I have mine tuned to 599.98pp, but if I go to my time trial rankings, the car doesn't show up until I go to the 700pp level. It's as if the game knows this is a 700pp car, but the tuning settings can be adjusted in such a way that the measurements come out lower.

I then have to ask about the Celica that we have been talking about lately. Is that a glitch build? Its 599.92PP calculation should put it in the 500 or 600pp range on the time trial ranking but, nope, it's in the 700pp rankings. So is this a glitch build now because the game views it as a 700pp car but the tuning settings were adjusted in such a way that dropped the PP level in a drastic way?
 
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Tommy_D
What should be classified as a "glitch" tune? Sure there are occasionally cars that have a big shift in PP by a small adjustment to the ballast or aerodynamics, but what is the cut off that says one is okay and the other is a glitch?

Something I find strange is that the game may say the car is under 600pp, but if Iook at my ranking board under the time trial and sort it by PP level, the car will show it in a class well above its stated PP. For example, the AMG Black tune that was just recently brought up is called a "glitch" tune. I have mine tuned to 599.98pp, but if I go to my time trial rankings, the car doesn't show up until I go to the 700pp level. It's as if the game knows this is a 700pp car, but the tuning settings can be adjusted in such a way that the measurements come out lower.

I then have to ask about the Celica that we have been talking about lately. Is that a glitch build? Its 599.92PP calculation should put it in the 500 or 600pp range on the time trial ranking but, nope, it's in the 700pp rankings. So is this a glitch build now because the game views it as a 700pp car but the tuning settings were adjusted in such a way that dropped the PP level in a drastic way?
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I would say the AMG Black Tune definitely qualifies as a "glitch" tune. There was a Supra '97 tune posted recently that falls in the same category. As you said, when very small movements in ballast or downforce have disproportionate very large lowering of PP that's a glitch. The glitch can be from bad design, a bad algorithm, or whatever, but "glitch" is the appropriate term IMHO.

BTW, I think your Ranking Board thing is interesting. I haven't looked at that feature. I'm curious what it does or how it "knows" the "real" PP.
 
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Do you think PD has changed the fuel usage for this race?
A car I used to use: the new NSX I can't run a non stop race, have to pit end of lap 10 for fuel, FM6 all race. Apart from last 2 laps. Used to be able to run it without pitting. Add extra fuel at end to run FM1
 

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