If you have GT6 you'll hate Project Cars. I just gave up, nothing seems to work in this game, don't loose you money and yur time. Save it for Assetto Corsa, Dirt, or wait for Gran Turismo Sport. Or if you have a powerful PC go for RFactor2.
Being fast in pCARS with a controller is definitely possible. Many of the top times on leaderboards are by controller users.
Being fast in pCARS with a controller is definitely possible. Many of the top times on leaderboards are by controller users.
I'm not at home right now, but ill share my controller settings later if you like? I think I have things feeling somewhat similar to GT6.
One thing I will say is that to be good with a controller, you have to get extremely good at feather L2 and R2 (brake and gas). This takes a lot of practice, and some fiddling with the options menu to get things to react the way you want them to.
As far as car setup, I've found that there's no magic rule for making a car easier to drive with a controller. Some cars feel better with a softer setup, some cars feel better with a stiffer setup.
The only "golden rule" I've found so far is that I run very little negative toe in the front...a lot of my cars actually have positive toe in the front. This is contrary to what you would see in real life, and to what most wheel tunes use, but I prefer the more dull turn in that the positive front toe results in.
One last tip, if you want to work on your gas & brake feathering, spent some time driving with the "data analyzer" (sorry, drawing a blank on the correct name) screen active....the one that shows you all the tire and brake temps. On this screen, you can get visual confirmation of your throttle and brake inputs, which I found to be extremely helpful in refining my technique.
Lastly, once you get comfortable with the controller, don't try to focus on "being like the wheel guys", as they have advantages you can't get with the controller. Instead, focus on maximizing the benefits the controller gives you...the biggest advantage being that you can turn the front wheels very aggressively, very quickly. This doesn't lend itself to being smooth, but is quite handy if you employ a "pitch & catch" technique on corner entry. This is actually a pretty advanced technique used in F1 and other high grip racing to maximize front end grip during corner entry. It's not exactly friendly on tires though
I really like everything the game has to offer and the visuals are pretty great, but I've just been having trouble really getting into it because of the touchiness of the controller.
Ok so here's all my controller settings. I'm no expert in how to set these, I don't even know what they all doThanks for the tips and yea if you remember I definitely would like to know how you have it set up.
I found a setup on these forums when I first got the game, and have made adjustments here and there, fiddling with things to see what happens and what I like. This is definitely a work in progress. ).. With a controller, you don't have as much control over the steering as you do with a wheel. Over time, I've got used to the idea of using the stick to turn the car into the corner, and then use the gas and brake, sometimes simultaneously, to fine tune the balance and rotation of the car through the corner. Once in the corner, I try to keep the stick as steady as possible (not necessarily at full lock), except to make oversteer corrections. To make the car either tighten or open mid corner though, I use the gas and brake. I know that wheel users use this technique as well, and they get it from real life driving, but I've found that putting this principle at the core of how I take a corner has really helped me get faster. It's a lot safer too, in the sense that I don't make violent mistakes with the steering which cause me to crash or lose time.
Ok so here's all my controller settings. I'm no expert in how to set these, I don't even know what they all do
First things first is to go to near the bottom, to where it says Controller Input Mode. You must set this first before setting anything else. I'm a little unsure on what exactly this does, but what I read is that modes 2 & 3 are for when you have a newish controller, and mode 1 is for when you have an old, worn out controller. The setup I found recommended mode 2, so that's what I went with, and what I've stuck with (I also had a pretty new controller at the time...it's getting a little worn now
While your near the bottom, turn Advanced to ON, the turn Soft Steering Dampening ON, Visual Wheel Filtering ON, and Opposite Lock Help OFF. Again, I don't really know what these do, I put them how the setup told me to, and haven't touched them.
Ok, back to the top for the sliders
Steering Dead Zone - 4
Steering Sensitivity - 5
Throttle Dead Zone - 10
Throttle Sensitivity - 5
Brake Dead Zone - 5
Brake Sensitivity - 15
Clutch Dead Zone - 0
Clutch Sensitivity - 20
The only ones of these that I've really fiddled with are the brake and the throttle.
Speed Sensitivity - 70
Play around with this one to see what it does. It reduces wheel lock the faster you go. Depending what you drive most commonly, this could be different from you. I don't spend much time in formula or LMP cars, but if that's your thing, this setting could be different for you.....actually, staring at this setting, I may try.a lower value tonight and see how things go.
Controller Filtering Sensitivity - 60
Force Feedback - 1
Another tip that I thought of today is to learn to rotate the car with the "pedals"
How you set your diff up plays a big role in how you can get the car to respond with this technique. Like I said, I like to turn into the corner really aggressively to maximize weight transfer, so most of my cars run a fairly high Decel Lock (usually 50% or higher) and a fairly high Preload (100/120 or higher). This helps the car from over rotating during trail braking and turn in, as well as mid corner. My Accel Lock values then tend to be quite low, usually less than 20%, which gives me some room for error with my throttle work on corner exit.
Ok so here's all my controller settings. I'm no expert in how to set these, I don't even know what they all do
First things first is to go to near the bottom, to where it says Controller Input Mode. You must set this first before setting anything else. I'm a little unsure on what exactly this does, but what I read is that modes 2 & 3 are for when you have a newish controller, and mode 1 is for when you have an old, worn out controller. The setup I found recommended mode 2, so that's what I went with, and what I've stuck with (I also had a pretty new controller at the time...it's getting a little worn now
While your near the bottom, turn Advanced to ON, the turn Soft Steering Dampening ON, Visual Wheel Filtering ON, and Opposite Lock Help OFF. Again, I don't really know what these do, I put them how the setup told me to, and haven't touched them.
Ok, back to the top for the sliders
Steering Dead Zone - 4
Steering Sensitivity - 5
Throttle Dead Zone - 10
Throttle Sensitivity - 5
Brake Dead Zone - 5
Brake Sensitivity - 15
Clutch Dead Zone - 0
Clutch Sensitivity - 20
The only ones of these that I've really fiddled with are the brake and the throttle.
Speed Sensitivity - 70
Play around with this one to see what it does. It reduces wheel lock the faster you go. Depending what you drive most commonly, this could be different from you. I don't spend much time in formula or LMP cars, but if that's your thing, this setting could be different for you.....actually, staring at this setting, I may try.a lower value tonight and see how things go.
Controller Filtering Sensitivity - 60
Force Feedback - 1
Another tip that I thought of today is to learn to rotate the car with the "pedals"
How you set your diff up plays a big role in how you can get the car to respond with this technique. Like I said, I like to turn into the corner really aggressively to maximize weight transfer, so most of my cars run a fairly high Decel Lock (usually 50% or higher) and a fairly high Preload (100/120 or higher). This helps the car from over rotating during trail braking and turn in, as well as mid corner. My Accel Lock values then tend to be quite low, usually less than 20%, which gives me some room for error with my throttle work on corner exit.
The Filtering Sensitivity is something I haven't tested all that much to be honest. I may give it a go this weekend.
