Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread

It turns out T-GT is simply GT branded PS4 version based on TS-PC and isn't direct drive. I feel...

  • Excited - Still a new and the improved wheel for PS4 by Thrustmaster

    Votes: 7 16.7%
  • Fine - Knew it won't be direct drive all along

    Votes: 9 21.4%
  • Disappointed - Not a direct drive

    Votes: 11 26.2%
  • Extremely Disappointed - Not drive drive and poor pedals set

    Votes: 15 35.7%

  • Total voters
    42
  • Poll closed .
Yes the T-GT (talking only about the wheelbase) is the best option for GT Sport. The pedals are horrendus.

I just sold the CSL and returned the T-GT and bought the CSW v2.5 (this is another level) because I moved on PC.
Like I said, I don't agree. My FFB settings for the T-GT and the CSL Elite were completely different in GTS. But my FFB on the CSL Elite is every bit as good IMO. As I have said previously I did not think much of the vibration effect. It may have been improved since then in an update but at the time I did not appreciate it. On the CSL Elite with the settings I am running the FFB is really good and challenges my experience in most other sims. It is far better than the FFB in PC2 on PS4 with any wheel I have tried but it should be noted the FFB in PC2 on PS4 with either the CSL Elite or the G29 is not very good and in that game on the PS4 the T-GT has been the best wheel for me but is still not as good as the CSL Elite in GTS.

The T-GT was not smooth. I really didn't like that gritty feeling. Without even bringing the pedals into it I think the wheel is a better wheel for features and options. I think the wheel feels better because it is smoother. But on a PS4 you must bring the pedals into it and at that point I think there is no debate.

For the record I have gone through hell returning that T-GT and have still not been refunded for it even though I have been promised multiple times I will receive a refund, then to get told I wont. At the moment we are back to I will receive a refund and once again I am waiting for the ten business days it will again take to process. I have already been through this 10 days multiple times as this started in November. I don't know what will happen if I do not get a refund this time, the seller is currently holding the wheel for me and has offered to step in as this issue is between me and eBay. It is complicated but eBay made a mistake and have recognised their mistake and have said both the seller will be paid and I will be refunded at their expense, they have said this to both me and the seller but to date I have not been refunded. If it doesn't get resolved I will be forced to seek legal aid but it is difficult because apparently I'm dealing with a company in another country who for some reason is allowed to hold an ABN. At worst I guess it could be a case of me getting the wheel back and then chasing ebay for postage both ways which might come to $150. If that happens I could be looking at a direct comparison again on the latest updates of each game.
 
7HO
Like I said, I don't agree. My FFB settings for the T-GT and the CSL Elite were completely different in GTS. But my FFB on the CSL Elite is every bit as good IMO. As I have said previously I did not think much of the vibration effect. It may have been improved since then in an update but at the time I did not appreciate it. On the CSL Elite with the settings I am running the FFB is really good and challenges my experience in most other sims. It is far better than the FFB in PC2 on PS4 with any wheel I have tried but it should be noted the FFB in PC2 on PS4 with either the CSL Elite or the G29 is not very good and in that game on the PS4 the T-GT has been the best wheel for me but is still not as good as the CSL Elite in GTS.

The T-GT was not smooth. I really didn't like that gritty feeling. Without even bringing the pedals into it I think the wheel is a better wheel for features and options. I think the wheel feels better because it is smoother. But on a PS4 you must bring the pedals into it and at that point I think there is no debate.

For the record I have gone through hell returning that T-GT and have still not been refunded for it even though I have been promised multiple times I will receive a refund, then to get told I wont. At the moment we are back to I will receive a refund and once again I am waiting for the ten business days it will again take to process. I have already been through this 10 days multiple times as this started in November. I don't know what will happen if I do not get a refund this time, the seller is currently holding the wheel for me and has offered to step in as this issue is between me and eBay. It is complicated but eBay made a mistake and have recognised their mistake and have said both the seller will be paid and I will be refunded at their expense, they have said this to both me and the seller but to date I have not been refunded. If it doesn't get resolved I will be forced to seek legal aid but it is difficult because apparently I'm dealing with a company in another country who for some reason is allowed to hold an ABN. At worst I guess it could be a case of me getting the wheel back and then chasing ebay for postage both ways which might come to $150. If that happens I could be looking at a direct comparison again on the latest updates of each game.


We have different opinion, and it is just fine. I do respect opinion and I understand your point. Overall all Fanatec product are better, that is why I have invested in the CSW 2.5 (that it is the best belt driven wheel in my opinion, and it is hardly arguable), both the BMW rim and the F1 Carbon plus the V3. I love their product and how they are built, the CSL it is not exception, I had one and loved the look and how smooth it was, but on PS4 (not PC), the feeling and the information of the FFB for me was weak, not like on PC.

I buy every product from Thrustmaster from Amazon. I don't want to deal Thrustmaster call Center and I can return a faulty product pretty fast and with no ********, that what I did after I bought the CSW v2.5 and the DriveHub, so sometimes I can still play on PS4 with no problem.
 
7HO
I have not watched that review and I'm still working on my review of the CSL Elite vs my experience with the T-GT I returned but as a preview my review will not agree with that claim in bold.



I'm a perfect example for ADHD, I get distracted by anything and too many options are almost always a bad thing for me as normally I'll keep tweaking for ever...

BUT

Not an issue with the CSL Elite. The options on the rim are similar to what you find in a PC driver normally. The options are straight forward and simple and I have not suffered option paralysis. I have a general preset for PC that gives me the best experience with most games. I have a different preset for GT Sport that gives me the best experience with GT Sport. I have another preset for Dirt Rally on PC that again I feel gives me the best experience for that game. PC runs on red mode. GT Sport runs on Purple mode, PC2 runs on blue mode but I use my main PC preset with blue mode on PC2 on the PS4. Things like brake sensitivity give you options but you'll discover the setting you like and stick to it, the only time you might consider changing it is when you play a game that reacts different and you want more or less sensitivity. Being able to change the degrees of rotation comes in handy when the game does not match the input for some reason or if you just want the steering to be more responsive. Other settings like Drift mode are very intuitive, I either set it as low as it will go without oscillation or choose to turn it off and never let go of the wheel because I prefer the feel. As long as you read the manual the settings are simple and as someone who always suffers from option paralysis I give it the tick of approval in this regard.
I stated my opinion in those posts. Feel free to disagree. For me the vibration function adds to the immersion. After these few months I still stand by my opinion as I feel some Fanatec csl are pretty disappointed native support hasn’t been added to GT sport even though it was said to come before end of the year (2017). Perhaps it shouldn’t be an issue because purple mode works for most people. Perhaps for me “psychologically” it would annoy me when I can’t play in “native” mode, even though the reality is perhaps the difference would be minimal. The T-GT is pretty much plug and play with every game so I don’t need to mess with any settings and in all cases the game sets the degrees of rotation automatically and accurately. In the end just enjoy your gear!
 
Anyone using the Ricmotech load cell brake mod with T3pa Pro pedals and TGT wheel? If so, does it work?
Well the T3PA Pro do but idk about the mod. If it doesn't change compatibility with other wheels I'm not sure why it would here.
 
What exactly is the T-DFB feature?
Is it some vibration that supposed to deliver to the seat and pedal? I.e. cannot get the full benefit from it if the wheel base/seat/pedal are mount on isolated furniture ? Thanks.
 
What exactly is the T-DFB feature?
Is it some vibration that supposed to deliver to the seat and pedal? I.e. cannot get the full benefit from it if the wheel base/seat/pedal are mount on isolated furniture ? Thanks.
It's a transducer on the back that vibrates depending on load on the tyres. With a rig it will travel down the rig to the pedals but without you can just feel it in the wheel. I use it without a rig and it's still pretty good imo, but no you won't be getting the full benefit.
 
Has anyone had their T-GT wheel stop responding while sitting idle for a few minutes between races while playing GT Sport? Normally it happens if I register for one of the daily sport mode races and then just wait for the event time. If more that 2-3 minutes go by between registering for the event and the start of the race the wheel stops responding. I have to get up, unplug the usb cable from the PS4 wait a few seconds then plug it back it. The wheel then does it's self calibration thing and all is well again.

Gets a bit annoying after a while. Anyone else this happens too? Any fixes or settings to prevent this?
 
Has anyone had their T-GT wheel stop responding while sitting idle for a few minutes between races while playing GT Sport? Normally it happens if I register for one of the daily sport mode races and then just wait for the event time. If more that 2-3 minutes go by between registering for the event and the start of the race the wheel stops responding. I have to get up, unplug the usb cable from the PS4 wait a few seconds then plug it back it. The wheel then does it's self calibration thing and all is well again.

Gets a bit annoying after a while. Anyone else this happens too? Any fixes or settings to prevent this?
Could be a PSU problem. My problem was a bit different (it happened while using and while not using and length of time varied) but the PSU was really hot and it made a buzzing noise when FFB was being applied. It might not be the same problem but random turn offs sound like a power issue.
 
Has anyone had their T-GT wheel stop responding while sitting idle for a few minutes between races while playing GT Sport? Normally it happens if I register for one of the daily sport mode races and then just wait for the event time. If more that 2-3 minutes go by between registering for the event and the start of the race the wheel stops responding. I have to get up, unplug the usb cable from the PS4 wait a few seconds then plug it back it. The wheel then does it's self calibration thing and all is well again.

Gets a bit annoying after a while. Anyone else this happens too? Any fixes or settings to prevent this?
Could also be a ps4 menu USB sleepsetting?
 
Could be a PSU problem. My problem was a bit different (it happened while using and while not using and length of time varied) but the PSU was really hot and it made a buzzing noise when FFB was being applied. It might not be the same problem but random turn offs sound like a power issue.

Could also be a ps4 menu USB sleepsetting?

Thanks for response guys. It's been behaving this weekend so far. I did look at the sleep setting and it was set to always on. I changed it to 60 minutes (just cause) and in addition am turning the handheld controller off. Maybe there is a conflict of sorts? Anyways, it's has not repeated since.
 
Hey, first time poster here.


Since October (17) I have gone through three T300-RS wheels. A burnt out motor, snapped internals on the second, and the third started making this awful grinding sound on rotation so ended up getting my money back in the end.

The guys at the shop I use say the T-500 is now discontinued. So like the majority here my choice is between the T-GT and CSL Elite but I just don’t know if I trust Thrustmaster any more and Fanatec seems to have a mixed bag of reviews on forums (from ps4 users like myself). PC Fanatec users seem to be more positive.

I’ve read the majority of this forum, pretty useful, however I’m still wondering what the reliability of the T-GT is like, anyone help me out?
 
Hey, first time poster here.


Since October (17) I have gone through three T300-RS wheels. A burnt out motor, snapped internals on the second, and the third started making this awful grinding sound on rotation so ended up getting my money back in the end.

The guys at the shop I use say the T-500 is now discontinued. So like the majority here my choice is between the T-GT and CSL Elite but I just don’t know if I trust Thrustmaster any more and Fanatec seems to have a mixed bag of reviews on forums (from ps4 users like myself). PC Fanatec users seem to be more positive.

I’ve read the majority of this forum, pretty useful, however I’m still wondering what the reliability of the T-GT is like, anyone help me out?
I have had no issues. But then again Its hard to say since it is a fairly new product. Perhaps you can research the ts-pc racer feedback. It shares most internals with the T-GT.
 
Hey, first time poster here.


Since October (17) I have gone through three T300-RS wheels. A burnt out motor, snapped internals on the second, and the third started making this awful grinding sound on rotation so ended up getting my money back in the end.

The guys at the shop I use say the T-500 is now discontinued. So like the majority here my choice is between the T-GT and CSL Elite but I just don’t know if I trust Thrustmaster any more and Fanatec seems to have a mixed bag of reviews on forums (from ps4 users like myself). PC Fanatec users seem to be more positive.

I’ve read the majority of this forum, pretty useful, however I’m still wondering what the reliability of the T-GT is like, anyone help me out?

What settings do you use your T-300 at? If you use heavy force feedback settings, I'm betting that was the culprit for the motor burning out. Correct me if I'm wrong. I had my T-300 for about 3 years before I started getting weaker feedback from heat after extended playing. I generally used low force feedback on all of my racing games throughout the lifespan of my T-300. Heavy FF, fighting the wheel, and Extreme vibration is just unrealistic. For GT Sport I'm using 3/2 setting for FF on my T-GT.
 
i have just got the TGT wheel and need help with gt sport wheel settings please if u could share what settings you are using.
I have had to return my Fanatec csl elite wheel as the fidelity and compatabiilty issues.
Using TGT on PC2 and Asseto Corsa the feedback sensation. Fidelity,smoothness is out of this world. Alot better than the csl elite. please note i only game on PS4 and need some direction on wheel settings for TGT thanks.
 
i have just got the TGT wheel and need help with gt sport wheel settings please if u could share what settings you are using.
I have had to return my Fanatec csl elite wheel as the fidelity and compatabiilty issues.
Using TGT on PC2 and Asseto Corsa the feedback sensation. Fidelity,smoothness is out of this world. Alot better than the csl elite. please note i only game on PS4 and need some direction on wheel settings for TGT thanks.
I generally use 5/8 and dont think Its too heavy at all.
 
kool I was using 6/8. what about the controller sensitivity I have that at - 2 and then 6 and 8
I 've been running 3/6 and zero for the contoller sensitivity, but I have stuffed shoulders so that's about my limit.

@PocketZeven Have you noticed any difference in the feel of the transducer since the last update? Mine seems to have lost the constant road feel and I'm not sure if it's that the transducer has failed or if it's due to the update. It's hard for me to distinguish because the sub-woofer under my seat is always active and my Buttkicker seems to have changed the way it activates since the update as well. The BK feels like it's lost the road feel and now is more active over curbs, during accidents and such, much like GT6 was (and better imo).
 
I 've been running 3/6 and zero for the contoller sensitivity, but I have stuffed shoulders so that's about my limit.

@PocketZeven Have you noticed any difference in the feel of the transducer since the last update? Mine seems to have lost the constant road feel and I'm not sure if it's that the transducer has failed or if it's due to the update. It's hard for me to distinguish because the sub-woofer under my seat is always active and my Buttkicker seems to have changed the way it activates since the update as well. The BK feels like it's lost the road feel and now is more active over curbs, during accidents and such, much like GT6 was (and better imo).
I've only had a few days so can't tell the difference. It does feel weak with my sub pac Off..
when I have the sub pac witch is on the back of my trakracer rig its amazing for low hz..
is there any way to check and c if the transducer on T GT works connecting to pc or ps4?
 
I've only had a few days so can't tell the difference. It does feel weak with my sub pac Off..
when I have the sub pac witch is on the back of my trakracer rig its amazing for low hz..
is there any way to check and c if the transducer on T GT works connecting to pc or ps4?
Thanks for the reply. It's good to know that it's probably not a fault in my wheel then.👍
 
I 've been running 3/6 and zero for the contoller sensitivity, but I have stuffed shoulders so that's about my limit.

@PocketZeven Have you noticed any difference in the feel of the transducer since the last update? Mine seems to have lost the constant road feel and I'm not sure if it's that the transducer has failed or if it's due to the update. It's hard for me to distinguish because the sub-woofer under my seat is always active and my Buttkicker seems to have changed the way it activates since the update as well. The BK feels like it's lost the road feel and now is more active over curbs, during accidents and such, much like GT6 was (and better imo).
I havent notice while playing recently. Perhaps disconnecting power and reconnect night help. I remember loosing all the transducer and reconnecting fixed it.
 
So it’s been awhile since I posted that my transducer stopped working and I would send it in for repairs. Well 1,5 months later they finally emailed me the tracking information last week that basically confirmed my base got lost somewhere during delivery. The tracking information said it got delivered but I didn’t receive anything nor a note in the mailbox telling me it was dropped off at a neighbor or something.

I’ve been trying to get a response over the mail for over nearly a week now, sending daily reminders and it seems I just get ignored. It’s been incredibly frustrating and quite frankly a beyond abysmal service for the price I paid. I hope something comes out of it, well I’ll make sure something gets out of it. But at this point I’m done with TM.
 
So it’s been awhile since I posted that my transducer stopped working and I would send it in for repairs. Well 1,5 months later they finally emailed me the tracking information last week that basically confirmed my base got lost somewhere during delivery. The tracking information said it got delivered but I didn’t receive anything nor a note in the mailbox telling me it was dropped off at a neighbor or something.

I’ve been trying to get a response over the mail for over nearly a week now, sending daily reminders and it seems I just get ignored. It’s been incredibly frustrating and quite frankly a beyond abysmal service for the price I paid. I hope something comes out of it, well I’ll make sure something gets out of it. But at this point I’m done with TM.
Thats frustrating! I recommend calling TM. If it’s been over a few days it’s tm’s Responsibility and not the shipping company to look for the “lost” shipment.
 
So after less than a month of use, my T-GT has developed a loud clicking noise when the brake pedal is pressed. Turns out it's due to the spring getting caught on the metal "collar" (you can see this when you look at the pedals from behind). I tried disassembling the pedals, tweaked the positions of the springs a bit and it was fixed....for a race or two. Then the clicking came back again. WTF. For a $1000 product the T-GT really feels rough around the edges. I bet 90% of that price is for the GT logo and the transducer - which doesn't really add much to the driving experience (I hate canned FFB effects with a passion). The wheel still works fine (touch wood for now), but I'm never buying another product from them again. In fact, I've just ordered the Ricmotech adapter so I can use my G25 pedals instead of having to put up with the clicking noise (IMO brake resistance actually feels better with G25 so it's not a loss for me).

If Fanatec ever gets their Direct Drive wheel compatible with console I might get that for PS5 and beyond, but G25 + Drivehub is more than adequate for me. For those who are on the fence getting this wheel: don't. It is really, really not worth it.

My full review of T-GT here: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ks-with-gt-sport.358306/page-27#post-12172964
 
Am I able to change the degree of rotation on my Thrustmaster T-GT to 900 or is it fixed at 1080?

I feel like I need to turn the wheel a lot on tight turns sometimes. Is anyone else experiencing this?
 
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