Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
jirin_cz
Hi guys,

I have managed to make two videos of my T300 RS issues.

In the first video you can hear these "clunks" going from the wheel base (is it the belt???) if turning left or right from centered position.



On the second one you can of course hear the same "sound/noice" and also you can notice another kind of sound - some sort of "clicking" noise.



Anyone experiencing the same issues? I guess this not a feature, isn`t it? :)

Probably have to make a replacement.

Thanks for your comments.
Click to expand...

That sucks, untill now I have no issues what so ever.
 
JimBowL_
You're kidding. Lol I'm guliable.

I've pre order my t3pa pedals, it's Been 4 days.

Has anyone else pre order t3pa pedals and how long did it take to receive your purchase?

Please and thank you.
Click to expand...
Maybe not 7K but somewhere around 700 lol. Anyway, all seriousness 17 Oct is the official launch day and does not mean shipping day. I wish that you all who ordered will get your toy next week. 👍
 
Gunstar
I always heard that too, but when I got my T500 it clamped right on, and the V bar was far enough to get me clearance. I had a very old oZone tho, so it might have changed. And my clamp did eventually break. It was still REALLY easy to just drill and hard mount tho, and much more solid and less rattle-y, since the metal part of the clamp just flops around whenever there is any FFB.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the answer! Now I don’t know what to think. Some say it will fit some say I wouldn’t. May be the welding of the Obutto frame vary from one another. Hard mounting really isn’t an option for me. First I have the black acrylic top and I don’t want to drill though it; and second I use my Obutto as a PC deck with that acrylic top and the M+KB plate, so I need a fast and easy way to place/remove the wheel – hence the clamp. Not too worried about stability because I use low FFB settings and never had problems with my DFGT moving about.
If it is not much trouble for you – could you please take some measurements of the clamp and the space between the V-shape tube and the edges of the wheel plate? Or maybe just where the clamp feet land in relation to the edges of the wheel plate?
 
drandiiski
Thanks for the answer! Now I don’t know what to think. Some say it will fit some say I wouldn’t. May be the welding of the Obutto frame vary from one another. Hard mounting really isn’t an option for me. First I have the black acrylic top and I don’t want to drill though it; and second I use my Obutto as a PC deck with that acrylic top and the M+KB plate, so I need a fast and easy way to place/remove the wheel – hence the clamp. Not too worried about stability because I use low FFB settings and never had problems with my DFGT moving about.
If it is not much trouble for you – could you please take some measurements of the clamp and the space between the V-shape tube and the edges of the wheel plate? Or maybe just where the clamp feet land in relation to the edges of the wheel plate?
Click to expand...

I would if I could... sold the oZone and upgraded to a R3volution earlier this year tho.
 
Ahh out of luck. Thanks anyway! Looks like the best way to find out will be to take the wheel base with me and test it in the shop , once it is available.
 
ChrisWAFC
The paddles feel different to me, the left clicks a lot sooner so I have padded out the front and the right clicks further forward so I have padded out the back.

Anyone else having issues with the paddles not worrying too much as still well under warranty
Click to expand...

in case of mine first T300 RS, the left paddle shifted earlier than the right one (1 mm difference). I have Exchange it with new Wheel and new one is unfortunately even worse - ratling and clicking noise
 
Jump_Ace
Does that always happen when the wheel is centered? If you give the wheel a 360 and a 720 degree turn in each direction, does it still do it? Or if you give the wheel a 180 degree turn? I'd want to know consistency, and I know guys said their T500's needed to get worn in, but that doesn't sound normal.


Jerome
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Hi Jerome,

it happens only when Wheel is centered. You move it to the left or right and you have the sound as on the video. Its only one "click" in each direction (left or right) no matter how many degrees you turn. So if you turn the Wheel to the left (or right) no matter if 45 or 540 degrees, you hear only ony click immediatelly from its centered position
 
drandiiski
Good idea! Made a quick search and it seems that I’m correct – the clamp does collide with the tubing. Seems there a few solutions, the easiest – using a wooden plank.
Click to expand...
facepalm.jpg

Can't believe I didn't think of that myself. Such a simple solution. Have the same issue on my Obutto r3volution.
Oh well, thanks for the tip. :)
 
jirin_cz
Hi Jerome,

it happens only when Wheel is centered. You move it to the left or right and you have the sound as on the video. Its only one "click" in each direction (left or right) no matter how many degrees you turn. So if you turn the Wheel to the left (or right) no matter if 45 or 540 degrees, you hear only ony click immediatelly from its centered position
Click to expand...

I've seen these videos on youtube. By two different people and one of the guy doesn't speak english..

I have a strong feeling this guy @jirin_cz is trolling or just has A.D.D. (wanting attention) hmmm.. are you trying to false advertise us on this forum man.
 
JimBowL_
I've seen these videos on youtube. By two different people and one of the guy doesn't speak english..

I have a strong feeling this guy @jirin_cz is trolling or just has A.D.D. (wanting attention) hmmm.. are you trying to false advertise us on this forum man.
Click to expand...

Are you kidding me man? Why I would do this. I love T300 Rs I just have a bad luck with this wheel and wanted to know from experienced users (I am new to sim racing) if there is any fix to my issues with wheel thats all.

No trolling, no hating ;)
 
jirin_cz
in case of mine first T300 RS, the left paddle shifted earlier than the right one (1 mm difference). I have Exchange it with new Wheel and new one is unfortunately even worse - ratling and clicking noise
Click to expand...
I tested mine: no clunk of any kind when powered off. And the two paddles click at pretty much the same spot, although the left one is quieter than the right.

I've put around 15 hours on my T300 so far, the belt has worn in nicely: when powered off it spins very freely (more so than new). I still feel clunks somewhat like on your video when driving at times, not sure I could say exactly when though.
 
skazz
I tested mine: no clunk of any kind when powered off. And the two paddles click at pretty much the same spot, although the left one is quieter than the right.

I've put around 15 hours on my T300 so far, the belt has worn in nicely: when powered off it spins very freely (more so than new). I still feel clunks somewhat like on your video when driving at times, not sure I could say exactly when though.
Click to expand...

Hi Skazz,

OK, thank you for you comment. Thrustmaster support asked me to make a video and send it to them (that`s the reason I make this video), but I think its for exchange. Thats pitty T300 are now sold out on our market.
 
My DFGT have FFB broken, so that now I can't play on Gran Turismo 6 without have a bad scratching feeling and forced to play on PC with 0% force (luckily, at least doesn't carry the scrathing feel this way).

So, I'll have to buy a new steering wheel when I'll have money, what do you suggest me?
I would go for G27 to be proven solid and good, but its non-compatibility with PS4 (and so GT7) decreases the chances that I'll get that. Now, only 2 options remain: T500RS or T300RS (quality or price)? Consider that I will play on GT6 for PS3 untill GT7 for PS4 will come out, than on that, plus I got The Crew, Simraceway (based on rFactor 1) and Assetto Corsa on the PC.

Probably it will take some time for me to get required cash, so there's the chance that in the meantime Logitech will release a wheel compatible for both PC and PS4 also.
 
JimBowL_
Did it say you'll get them on the 17th? Cause it's been 4 days I've order t3pa pedals l, and it didn't give me no release date.

@Soulfresh_ACV ; are you serious about that order number... :nervous:
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The retailer where I ordered it, send me a mail that they could not deliver it within two days like they normally do.
And that they expect to deliver on the 17th.
They do hqve the Th8a in stock but it will be delivered on the same day.
 
jirin_cz
Hi guys,

I have managed to make two videos of my T300 RS issues.

In the first video you can hear these "clunks" going from the wheel base (is it the belt???) if turning left or right from centered position.



On the second one you can of course hear the same "sound/noice" and also you can notice another kind of sound - some sort of "clicking" noise.



Anyone experiencing the same issues? I guess this not a feature, isn`t it? :)

Probably have to make a replacement.

Thanks for your comments.
Click to expand...


With regards to the clunk sound at the center, I have it too, but only during driving (ingame). And it happens not always. When I go back to the desktop or shut the pc down, the clunk is gone when I move the wheel. Even though the wheel has lots of centering force in windows.

I have also some clicking sound, but yours seem to be exactly reproducable at a given angle. However, that is not the case with my clicking, and I know where it comes from. It comes from my right shifter paddle. And it only happens when I move the wheel fast. And if I hold the shifter paddle in shifted position and turn the wheel, the clicking is gone. So I suppose there is something loose inside the actual rim where the right shifter paddle is mounted.

What happens if you take the wheel off the base and shake or rotate it, can you hear the clicking too?
 
WeamDreaver
With regards to the clunk sound at the center, I have it too, but only during driving (ingame). And it happens not always. When I go back to the desktop or shut the pc down, the clunk is gone when I move the wheel. Even though the wheel has lots of centering force in windows.

I have also some clicking sound, but yours seem to be exactly reproducable at a given angle. However, that is not the case with my clicking, and I know where it comes from. It comes from my right shifter paddle. And it only happens when I move the wheel fast. And if I hold the shifter paddle in shifted position and turn the wheel, the clicking is gone. So I suppose there is something loose inside the actual rim where the right shifter paddle is mounted.

What happens if you take the wheel off the base and shake or rotate it, can you hear the clicking too?
Click to expand...

I tried to take the rim off and definitely its not the rim. Its going from the wheel base. When the rim is down when I take the "cross" (where the rim normally is mounted) with me hand and turn around (left and right from centre position), I got exactly the same clicking noise as the rim is attached. This is happening only if wheel base is powered via USB (and NOT in Windows wheel control panel mode).
 
@jirin_cz I'm sorry man. Just got curious, of why only 1 or 2 user having this issue.

My bad, hope you resolve this horrible issue. Are you going to get another replacement? Since you got 1 replaced already.
 
jirin_cz
in case of mine first T300 RS, the left paddle shifted earlier than the right one (1 mm difference). I have Exchange it with new Wheel and new one is unfortunately even worse - ratling and clicking noise
Click to expand...

Did they just send out a new wheel or did you have to return ? Thanks.
 
jirin_cz
Hi Skazz,

OK, thank you for you comment. Thrustmaster support asked me to make a video and send it to them (that`s the reason I make this video), but I think its for exchange. Thats pitty T300 are now sold out on our market.
Click to expand...
Tested again with the wheel powered on in Windows 8.1 just in the desktop: I do get a similar clunk when moving offcenter like on your video: But if I rotate the wheel further then it doesn't clunk until I bring it back to center and let it sit there then move it offcenter again. So the clunk is only when powered on and against the in-Windows center spring in some way.

As I said (and @WeamDreaver too) it's not something you really notice when racing. Yes, it clunks sometimes, just get on with using it :)
 
Clevohead
Are the firmware updates important for use on PS3/4?

Are they worth doing?
Click to expand...

always doyes very worth, the patch notes are there for a reason to tell you what has been implemented/fixed

ex: tx does not work with th8a unless you update it
 
WhiteLight64
Amazon

Finally available for Pre-order in the US
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Has anyone who has placed their order, gotten a shipping date?
I went through Frys and it was initially expected to arrive Monday the 20th.
If the Amazon orders are getting there earlier, I'd like to know so that I can cancel my Frys order and place one with Amazon.
Thanks.
 
Clevohead
Are the firmware updates important for use on PS3/4?

Are they worth doing?
Click to expand...
So far there are no firmware updates for the T300. When they come, I expect they will be to add support for new rims or shifters. But you never know, there might be a bug fix too.

It only takes a few minutes to update, I'm sure anyone without a PC can find a friend willing to drop by with a laptop and spend 5 minutes on the update.
 

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